PinotFile: 6.37 August 24, 2007
- When I’m Sixty-Four
- No Wine Before It’s Time at Kalin Cellars
- Historic School House Vineyard
- Tipsy Dog Pinot Noir - Arrrf
- Lost Canyon Winery is Consistently Fine
- Bien Nacido Redux
- Small Sips
- Wally’s Central Coast Wine & Food Celebration
- Sonoma County Grape Camp
When I’m Sixty-Four
Sixty-four is not a major age milestone, but I will take it anyway. Paul McCartney
memorialized aging in his love song, “When I’m Sixty-Four,” written at the tender
age of 16. I gathered up a few wine cronies, most of whom are hovering around my
same age, raided my cellar for some good Burgs and sat down on a Sunday afternoon
to celebrate another year. The well-cellared wines turned out to be vinous
treasures resulting in a very memorable tasting. Here is the lineup with some
commentary. All wines had appropriate fills and there were no corkage issues.
2002 Domaine Drouhin Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er
13.0% alc.. This vineyard is one
of a handful that many experts deem worth of grand cru status (and is priced accordingly). It is situated
just below Musigny and is considered the “younger brother to Musigny.”
The aromatics are quite
sensual featuring violets, roses, and cassis. The predominately red fruit flavors are buttressed by brisk
acidity. Clean, crisp and thoroughly satisfying, this is truly a complete wine deserving of great admiration.
2000 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru
14.0% alc.. The Domaine
produces about 4,000 cases a year of five wines: Musigny Blanc, Chambolle Musigny, Chambolle
Musigny 1er Cru, Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru, Bonnes-Mares, and Musigny. The
Chambolle Musigny 1er contains grapes from young Musigny vines.
The striking aromatics come at
you like a speeding truck and are far and away the most flamboyant in the lineup save the La Tache. Cinnamon
spice, ripe dark cherry and some buttery oak aromas lead to a fat and rich stuffing of mature red
and black fruits. There is some earthiness as well. The texture is all silk. Seduction 101.
1999 Domaine Romanee-Conti Le Tache
11-14% alc., $450. Le Tache is a legendary wine of such great
acclaim that it is hard to do it justice by any descriptive measure (it is said that you discuss a good Bordeaux,
but you simply enjoy a good Burgundy). It is also hard to see beyond the label. La Tache is, of
course, a monopole, like Romanee-Conti.
There is bottomless cassis, wild strawberries and Oriental
spice on the nose with dark cherries flashing through the flavors. Rich in the nose and the taste (“stacked
and packed”), yet elegant and refined, it seems perfect in every way. Although a treat to drink now, it is
still a youngster and withholding some hidden charms. Truly, a festive occasion.
1996 Domaine Pierre Damoy Clos de Beze
13.5% alc.. Clos de Beze
lies north of Chambertin, between it and Mazis. Pierre Damoy owns the
largest parcel of the climat by far.
The nose is replete with hi-tone dark
cherries, raspberries and baking spice. Rich and concentrated, the wine
displays a copious amount of sweet, sappy fruit which carries to a lengthy
and refreshing finish highlighted by a berry kiss. There is lively acidity to
buttress the fruit.
1995 Haegelen-Jayer Clos Vougeot
Alfred Haegelen married Madeleine, a niece of the
great Henri Jayer. His wines are restrained and long-lasting. Clos Vougeot is the largest (50.59 ha)
grand cru in the Côte-de-Nuits, but the quality of wines from this vineyard vary greatly due to the large
number of owners and the placement of their respective blocks in the vineyard.
Quite pleasing with a
charming toast note to the aromas, lively tart cherry flavors, a silky texture, and plenty of length and acidity
on the thoroughly enjoyable finish.
1993 Domaine Denis Mortet Chambertain
13% alc.. Before his tragic death by suicide at the age of
49 in 2006, Mortet was a consummate perfectionist who believed in the meticulous management of his
28 acres of vineyards. His wines were bold and frequently extracted, but when he achieved more refinement,
they were marvelous. I remember a number of years ago, sampling a number of mid-1990s
wines from Mortet and found many heavy-handed. However, I was taken by the Les Champeaux
wines and my experience with these led me to delve more deeply into Burgundy. All of his wines
were made with 100% new French oak.
The aromatics were striking (dark spiced cherries, vanillin oak)
and superceded the flavors. The lively acidity was wanting for a food companion. The body of fruit was on
the light side, there was little grip, and the finish was short.
1991 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes-Mares
13.5% alc.. This Domaine can trace its
roots back 550 years and today the 20th generation of the family is in charge. About 420 cases of
Bonnes-Mares are produced each year from the Domaine’s holdings which are in the Chambolle
portion of the vineyard. The vines average 29 years in age. Several critics have written that the Vogue
wines of the 1990s are excellent and in great vintages are truly magnificent examples of fine Burgundy.
A lovely nose of ripe cherries with floral accents. Shy flavors of sweet red cherries, spice and a
hint of citrus. Appears to be fading. A good wine, but disappointing considering the pedigree.
1943 Bouchard Pere & Fils Volnay
11-14% alc.. You never open a bottle like this
with high expectations, but it is nevertheless always a thrill when the wine is this
The black cork came out cleanly. The wine was a surprise to all. The color was
medium ruby with only a trace of orange tinge at the rim. There was still notable
sweet red fruits on the palate with a little spice and fecundity. The wine was delicate
with cashmere tannins. It was a brief, but memorable fling. because the wine was
spent an hour later.
Wine writer Dan Berger has said, “What the Burgundy lover really seeks is a silky elegance inside the
deep flavors, an experience that is elusive and rare.” I think we found that elegance in several of
these wines. Most had impressive balance, fine tannins, no oak or alcohol intrusion, and with an acidity
that kept them fresh and alive. Beyond that, they displayed an attraction that is defies adequate
Where can you read more and learn about Burgundy? There are a number of excellent internet
sources for information. Burgundy is a maze of vineyards, producers and confusing nomenclature and
the Burg enthusiast must commit serious time and study to be able to purchase wisely and gain an
appreciation for the myriad of wines that come from this small wine-producing region of France. A
first step is to learn the geography and I have included a map of Burgundy on the next page (courtesy
of Berry Bros & Rudd’s wine retailers in the UK - www.bbr.com).
Reference books are few and many are outdated. The two standard texts are Cote D’Or
A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy written by Clive Coates M.W. (1997) and
The Great Domaines of Burgundy authored by Remington Norman (1996). Burgundy and
Its Wines, by Nicholas Faith (2002) is filled with glorious photographs of Burgundy.
More recent books include Wines of Burgundy by Serena Sutcliffe (2005), The Wines of
Burgundy by Sulvain Pitiot, Jean-Charles Servant and Roger Jones (2005), and Classic
Wine Library: Burgundy by Anthony Hanson (2004).
There are several newsletters that review Burgundy wines. Only one - Burghound
) is exclusively devoted to Burgundy. Online or printed copies are available.
Allen Meadows, aka Burghound, has been traveling to Burgundy for 30 years and spends several
months there every year. His newsletters are the definitive source for tasting notes and some background
information on domaines and winemakers. He also publishes The Insider’s Guide to Visiting the
Cote d’Or ($19.95).
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (www.eRobertParker.com) and Steve Tanzer’s International Wine
Cellar (www.wineaccess.com) offer primarily reviews and scores of Burgundy wines in some issues.
There are several other excellent informative websites that cover Burgundy. Burgundy Report
(www.burgundy-report.com) is authored by Bill Nanson who resides in Europe. He provides extensive
coverage of domains with glorious photography and extensive wine reviews. Free.
Elden Selections (www.eldenwine.com) is based in Burgundy and specializes in small-production,
estate-bottled Burgundy wines that are little known outside France. Members of the Elden Wine
’Club’ (free) receive a twice-yearly newsletter and prospectus with up-to-date tasting notes from wine
makers, winemaker profiles, access to older vintages, and a search service for those looking for a particular
wine. The Burgundy Wine Institute (www.burgundywineinstitute.com) is an educational branch
of the Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne in association with Elden Wine based in Beaune. The Institute
offers a range of tasting-based courses to satisfy Burgundy lovers which includes walking the vineyards
with the people who make the wines, “step down into the cellars, see barrels being coopered,
and join in the rhythm of the wineries.” Visit the website for a sample one-week intensive program.
Burgundy Briefing (www.theburgundybriefing.com) is published by Sarah Marsh M.W. from England. She
is a regular contributor to Decanter magazine. Her newsletters are sold individually and cover en
primeur tastings, grower profiles, tasting reviews, and Burgundy travel tips.
A number of retailers specialize in Burgundy and provide considerable instructional information and
credible recommendations. These include The Burgundy Wine Company in New York City
(www.burgundywinecompany.com), North Berkeley Wine in Berkeley, California (www.northberkeleyimports.com) and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant also in Berkeley (www.kermitlynch.com).
Many fine wine retail stores have trained personnel who can guide you through the Burgundy maze. A
knowledgeable retailer is worth his weight in wine. Several United States importers hand-pick the
Burgundies they bring into this country and their name on a bottle is a guarantee of quality: Neal
Rosenthal, Louis-Dressner, Robert Chadderton Selections, Polaner Selections, Robert Karcher Selections,
Becky Wasserman, and Martine’s Wines.
And finally, if all else fails, you can turn to Canadian Mike Mandel, whose non de plume is Deacon Dr.
Fresh and he claims to be the “working man’s oenophile (www.deaconwinelist.blogspot.com). Using
colorful vocabulary and proclaiming himself “The Buccaneer of Burgundy” and “The Prince of Pinot
Noir,” among other outlandish titles, he says that “I have arrived to rescue the wine world from overlyserious,
rigid, deconstructionist, rooster juice peckerwoods who’d never dream of getting’ a tattoo or
crackin’ a smile.” Maybe he has the best approach to Burgundy - find a good producer, buy some
good stuff, and forget whether the vineyard is a grand cru, a premier cru or in the alley behind someone’s
cottage. Take pleasure in the wine and enjoy it for what it is. Even better, let someone else buy
the Burgundy and then you can really savor it.
No Wine Before It’s Time at Kalin Cellars
Microbiologists Dr. Terry Leighton and his wife Dr. Frances Leighton founded Kalin Cellars in Marin
County in 1977. Terry was the original winemaker at Domaine Laurier in the 1970s prior to starting his
own label. The first wines, a Zinfandel and Cabernet, were released in 1978. Over the ensuing years,
the Leightons have labored in relative obscurity producing some of the greatest California wines that
only wine critics and wine geeks can testify to. The eccentric couple avoid publicity at all cost. I have
been enamored with their wines for years because of their unique character, age ability and individuality.
The name Kalin (KAY-len) is a local Indian word for ocean and the Leightons chose this name
“because it was the only Indian word we could pronounce.” The mantra behind this winery is the use
of traditional, hands-on, labor-intensive methods that do little or nothing to disturb the character of the
wine -“Produce no wine with less character than yourself.” The winery itself is an undistinguished
warehouse situated among other small businesses in Novato, California.
Winemaking combines the Leightons’ modern knowledge of the science of vinification and traditional
European methods. The Leightons like to say that the only people between you and the wine are the
two of them. Baskets presses are still employed and the wines are fermented in either oak
‘cuves’ (red) or oak barrels (whites). The Leightons pioneered sur lies aged white wines in California.
The have used their background as research scientists to conduct studies on yeasts and now choose
yeasts that are very slow fermentors (fermentation can take eight months in barrel). The Leightons
believe slow fermentation is key for the evolution of flavors in the wine, particularly the fifth taste,
unami. Described as savory, pungent and meaty, unami is secondary to glutamates which are common
in aged cheeses, meats and wine. The Leightons firmly believe that most wines are not capable of
acquiring unami because they are made quickly and sold long before the fifth flavor is attained.
The wines at Kalin Cellars are all single vintage, single vineyard wines. The Leightons own no vineyards
of their own, but source grapes from distinguished vineyards outside Marin County. An exception
was the use of Pinot Noir grapes from Marin County’s Devil’s Gulch Vineyard (farmed by Mark
Pasternak) in 1987 and 1988. The Leightons produced sparkling rosés in those two vintages that are
legendary among wine enthusiasts. The Leightons have farmed two vineyards in Burgundy, from
which they make a small amount of “Kalin Bourgogne” that is sold to “Kalinites,” and restaurants.
Because of the style of winemaking, the wines are not ready to drink for at least five years. Unheard of
in the modern business model of wine sales, they follow no set vintage sequence. Basically, the wines
are released to the market when the Leightons feel they taste good, usually between 5-10 years after
the vintage. The current Pinot Noir release is the 1996 Kalin Cellars Cuvee DD Sonoma County Pinot
Noir (the 1997 vintage was released last year). In essence, then, every wine that is released is a
7,000 cases of wine are produced annually usually consisting primarily of a Sonoma County Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay and a Livermore Valley Semillon. Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling wine and dessert
wine have been thrown into the mix in some vintages. Most wines are designated by letters which are
shorthand for identifying specific vineyard locations and signifying cuvées. Prices are quite reasonable
($40 range) considering the wines have been cellared for years prior to release. The quirky website
lists currently available wines for sale (the 1996 vintage, now released, is not yet listed). To order
wines, you simply call and leave a message and wait for a reply. A few select retail outlets and winesavvy
restaurants offer the wines.
Terry Leighton retired from his position as a distinguished microbiology professor at the University of
California Berkeley in 2000. Now in his 60s, Leighton’s winemaking enthusiasm is going strong and he
has the 2007 vintage fermenting in the winery. The 2005 vintage was bottled in January of this year.
The Kalin Cellars Pinot Noirs are for connoisseurs only as they offer secondary bouquets and flavors
that drinkers accustomed to young wines may find unpalatable. The wines offer earth, forest floor,
meat, soy, and leather notes set off by plenty of racy acidity. They demand food. Last year I thoroughly
enjoyed drinking the 1990, 1994 and 1995 vintages, with the 1994 my clear favorite (PinotFile,
Volume 5, Issue 39).
1996 Kalin Cellars Livermore Valley Semillon
13.8% alc., The
grapes come from the Wente Estate Vineyard near Livermore planted in the
1880s from Chateau d’Yquem cuttings. 25% Sauvignon Blanc.
Hard to find a
10 year old California white wine this good. Exotic aromas of char, toast and
banana. Flavors of coconut, banana, charred corn and well-toasted crème
brulee. A treat to drink.
1996 Kalin Cellars Cuvée DD Sonoma Pinot Noir
13.7% alc., $38. From
the Demostene Ranch in Alexander Valley, the oldest Pinot Noir vineyard in
The wine has a touch of orange color on the rim. The nose opens
with cigar box and mint progressing to dried cherry and dank mushrooms.
Tart cherry flavors lead to very lively acidity. Many tasters will find the acidity
challenging without food accompaniment.
Kalin Cellars has several vintages available in the retail marketplace: 1991, 1993, 1994, 1996, and
1997 Pinot Noir and 1996, 1997 Semillon. The website is www.kalincellars.com. 415-883-3543.
Historic School House Vineyard
School House Vineyard is located on Spring Mountain above St. Helena at the intersection of Langtry
and Spring Mountain Roads. The vineyard was named after a one-room 1890s schoolhouse on the
property which was destroyed by fire in the mid 1980s. The original vines, a mixed field blend, were
planted in the 1890s and all of the grapes were blended into a single red table wine. Today some of
the vines have been replanted to produce School House Mescolanza, a modern interpretation of the
John Daniel, owner of the Inglenook Estate, gave his friend, John Q. Gantner some Pinot Noir bud wood
(said to be from Domaine Romanee-Conti) and Gantner planted the Pinot Noir in his School House
Vineyard in 1953. The first School House Pinot Noir was released in 1957. Chardonnay was planted in
the School House Vineyard in the late 1960s, using bud wood from Fred McCrea’s Stony Hill Vineyard.
The non-irrigated vineyard is located in a cool and unique microclimate at 1,500 foot elevation with
Currently, John M. Gantner and Nancy Walker farm the vineyard and live on the property. The School
House wines are vinified at Pride Mountain Vineyards under the direction of winemaker Bob Foley and
his assistant, Romel Rivera.
2003 School House Spring Mountain District Napa Valley Pinot
Table wine, 9 barrels, $75. Label says, “From mountain grapes
grown on School House Vineyard, St. Helena, by John M. Gantner.
Cellared and bottled by Gantner and Walker, St. Helena.” Low yields
(just under a ton per acre). Fermented in open-top bins after destemming.
Aged 18 months in French oak and bottled by hand.
ruby in color. A dirty diaper fragrance blows off to reveal a rich perfume
of ripe cherries, Mocha java and forest floor. The concentrated flavors
follow in step with added notes of cranberry, roasted plums and game.
There is plenty of earthiness at heart. A touch of alcohol on the nose and finish is not intrusive. A highly
distinctive wine of great character and clearly unlike a “typical” California Pinot Noir.
1993 School House Spring Mountain District Napa Valley Pinot Noir
Label says, “From mountain
grapes grown on School House Vineyard, St. Helena, by John M. Gantner. Cellared and bottled by
Scotland Craig Partners, St. Helena.”
Mahogany color with an orange rim. Impressive aromas of dark
chocolate-covered cherries with hints of toast. Tart cherry flavors with noticeable tannins lead to a finish
with brisk acidity. The wine is fading and the fruit is tired and thin on the backend, but it still has some
School House Vineyard is located at 3549 Langtry Road, St. Helena. The wines are available on the
website at www.schoolhousevineyard.com. Tasting by appointment (707-963-4248).
Tipsy Dog Pinot Noir - Arrrf
The Wildwood Vineyard and Winery is an 80-acre estate just east of Highway 101 on the Cuesta Grade
in San Luis Obispo. Owned by the Wood family, the emphasis of the winery is on Syrah and Cabernet
grown on the estate. Always on the lookout for good, reasonable Pinot Noir (almost an oxymoron), I
ran across this wine at my local retailer (Pacific Ranch Market). Last summer, as part of Pinot Camp,
our group had visited Wildwood Vineyard and Winery and enjoyed a fine barbeque and wines from
their tasting room.
2005 Tipsy Dog Crazy Jay’s Vineyard Edna Valley Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., 500
cases, $28. Pommard clone.
A very decent Pinot Noir of medium weight. Fruit-driven
aromas with plenty of dark raspberries and mocha on the palate. There is
noticeable oak influence from start to finish. The alcohol is well-integrated in the
Wildwood Vineyard and Winery is located at 555 El Camino Real, San Luis Obispo. The Tipsy Dog
Pinot Noir can be fetched on the website, www.wildwoodwine.com. Tasting by appointment (805-546-
Lost Canyon Winery is Consistently Fine
Lost Canyon Winery has true gargariste origins. Started in a garage in the Montclair Hills of California
in 1978, Jack States and Randy Keworth eventually teamed up with Bob Riskin and the Lost Canyon
Winery was bonded in 2001. Now the urban winery is located in a renovated vintage 1900s warehouse
on the San Francisco Bay waterfront south of Jack London Square in Oakland. They are one of fifteen
wineries now part of the East Bay Vintner’s Alliance. The state-of-the-art winery and tasting room is
contemporary and comfortable. I have been a fan since the first release in 2001. The wines have shown
excellent consistency from vintage to vintage. The owners have long-term contracts with the same
three Pinot Noir vineyards which contributes to the uniformity.
2005 Lost Canyon Dutton Ranch Morelli Vineyard Russian River Valley
14.1% alc., $40. The vineyard is located in Green Valley. Clones
are 115, Pommard and Beringer.
The wine offers an aromatic charge of cherries,
spice, exotic woods and floral notes. Flavors of red and black berries, tart cherries
and herbs are satisfying. A hint of oak runs through from start to finish. The
texture is soft and the wine is easy to drink. Similar to the Saralee’s, but more
shallow and possessing less punch on the backend.
2005 Lost Canyon Los Brisas Vineyard Los Carneros Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., $40.
Clones 115 and UCD 18 are used from this vineyard farmed by Francis
A very classy nose of ripe Bing cherry and cola. The core of cherry fruit is enhanced with oak
and herbs. Great persistence and suppleness in the mouth. Good acidity carries the finish. Brilliantly
crafted, you’re the one that I want.
2005 Lost Canyon Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., $40. Dijon
clones 115 and 777.
A rich, full wine that is still light on its feet. A demure, but complex nose of cassis,
raspberries, cola and bittersweet chocolate. The varietal flavors are well-presented and the tannins are
well-concealed. A metrosexual wine - masculine with a feminine side.
Lost Canyon Winery is located at 2102 Dennison St., Suite A, Oakland. The tasting room is open Friday
through Sunday from 1-6 PM. The wines are available through a mailing list and on the website at
Bien Nacido Redux
Last summer the Crew spent a day at Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley as part of a Pinot
Camp that I organized. Several attendees were so impressed by the wines that they decided to organize
a dinner and tasting of Bien Nacido wines at Mr Stox Restaurant in Anaheim, California, Nicholas
Miller, who conducts marketing and public relations for Bien Nacido Vineyard, attended and offered
considerable insight into the wines presented that night. Many of the wines were from a “Bien Nacido
Vineyards Collector’s Case” that was offered in 2006. Each year, a Collector’s Case with different
selections will be offered from the Bien Nacido Vineyard. The Bien Nacido crew pictured below includes
winemakers Jeff Wilkes (blue hat, J. Wilkes), Greg Linn (wineglass in hand, Ambullneo), and
Jeff White (red hat, Ovene); James Ontiveros (gray hat, Director of Marketing) and Nicholas Miller
Bien Nacido (Spanish for “Born Well”) Vineyard of Rancho Tepusquet is one of the Central Coast’s
premier sources for Chardonnay (over 300 acres) and Pinot Noir (over 250 acres). A number of other
promising varietals are planted as well including Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Rousanne, Merlot,
Barbera and Nebbiolo. The total acreage is fluid as old vines dating to the 1970s are removed and replanted.
Maximum vineyard size is 800 acres. The vineyard is a few miles east of the town of Santa
Maria and lies in a valley that is open to the Pacific Ocean to the west. There are regular summertime
afternoon cool breezes from the ocean. Since the vineyard lies at 34 degrees latitude, it receives
considerable intense sunlight from a directly overhead sun. There is no Bien Nacido wine per se, as all
of the vineyard is allocated to small producers whose blocks are farmed according to their standards.
The grape production is sold to customers by charging a flat rate for the block or rows, so the winemakers
can crop their vines to the volume they prefer. Some Bien Nacido customers have sourced the
same rows of grapes for over 20 years and designate their particular block on the bottle. The entire Bien Nacido Vineyard client list is on the website at www.biennacidovineyards.com
*It is difficult to make any generalizations about specific aromatic and flavor characteristics of Pinot Noir
from Bien Nacido Vineyard because of the many different clones, sites, and winemaking styles. Some
have talked of a pepper note that often runs through, black or white, which I have noted on occasion.
2005 J. Wilkes Bien Nacido Vineyards Pinot Blanc
14.1% alc., 600 cases, $18. The grapes were
machine harvested at night and pressed without de-stemming. Cold fermentation ensued and the wine
was aged sur lies.
An excellent wine which is notable for its tropical flavors. Clean and crisp, this would
make a perfect aperitif..
2005 Bernardus Bien Nacido Vineyards Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 99 cases, $25. Sourced from two different
blocks containing Pommard and 2A clone. Aged in 60% new oak.
Very nice garnet color. Heady
aromatics of cherries, cola and spice. Nicely balanced with racy red fruits, supple tannins and palate-cleansing
acidity. My favorite wine in this Pinot Noir lineup.
2004 Trou de Bonde Bien Nacido Vineyards Pinot Blanc
14.2% alc., 605 cases, $17. Cooperage
included a mix of 70% stainless steel, 15% new French oak, and 15% neutral French oak.
A more Alsatian
interpretation of Pinot Blanc compared to the California-styled Wilkes’ bottling. More body and viscosity,
with notes of green apple and petrol. This wine paired perfectly with King Salmon, heirloom tomatoes
and a fennel horseradish vinaigrette.
2004 Lane Tanner Bien Nacido Vineyards Pinot Noir
12,8%, $26. As you can tell by the alcohol
level, Lane picks her grapes usually before anyone else, but an alcohol below 13% is a rarity, even for
her. The wine is pure N Block (Martini clone planted in 1973 on its own rootstock). 35% new oak.
warns that this wine tastes leaner than other years, but feels it will be long-lived. Her comment is right on
as this wine is more austere and tart than the more showy 2005 release.
2003 Foxen Bien Nacido Vineyards Block Eight Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., 425 cases, $48. This block
was planted in 1996 with clones 2A, Sanford & Benedict (Mt. Eden), 113, 115, and Pommard.
darkly-colored wine of great intensity. Plenty of sweet, fresh, vivid fruit with power to thrill. A bit of heat
peaks out on the finish.
2002 Nicolaysen Family Vineyards Bien Nacido Vineyards Pinot Noir
15.1% alc., 275 cases. This
wine is from plantings over 30 years old in the “T” Block of Bien Nacido Vineyard. The unusual clone
is 22 (from Beaujolais). The 2002 is the latest release.
Dark in color, rich, ripe, generous and jammy,
with potent octane, this is not a wine for the faint of heart. Several tasters loved this wine which I thought
smelled a lot better than it tasted.
I am certainly no expert on Syrah, but among the four that were presented, the 2003 Ojai Vineyard
Bien Nacido Vineyards Syrah and the 2004 Ambullneo Santa Maria Howling Syrah (85% Bien
Nacido Vineyards) were clearly my favorites. We finished off the evening with an outrageous dessert
wine, the 2003 Sine Qua Non Mr. K The Nobleman Late-Harvest Bien Nacido Vineyards Chardonnay
(12.3% alc., $100).
These are Pinot Noirs that I randomly tasted over the last several months
2005 Malm Cellars Sonoma County Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 118 cases, $19. Highly-touted and a Los
Angeles Times Wine of the Week. A reserve
release has been highly recommended in the press as well.
Classy bottle with wax capsule which is unusual for wine in this price
range. The wine shows an impressive core of plums, blackberries, cassis, and spice. The aromatics are
wanting, but this is not a wine made to contemplate, but to suck down with a good hamburger.
2005 Kanzler Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Very deep ruby color. Bright
plum and blackberries with herbal overtones are the theme. Silky in texture with a plush mouth feel and a
tangy finish. A big tiger with a pussycat sensibility. A bigger style that I liked alot.
2004 Louis Guntrum Spätbergunder Trocken
13.0% alc. Imported by Broadbent
Selections, Inc. San Francisco.
Medium-bodied with sour cherry and cranberry flavors. Unusual
wood notes throughout (doubt French oak). Soft tannins and decent balance. A quaff.
2003 Talisman Ted’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 259
Light in color, this wine still delivers the goods with dark fruits and mushrooms
in the nose and lovely cherry fruits on the mid-palate. Earthiness, vanilla and spice add charm.
Brisk acidity and residual oak tannins on the finish indicate a need for further cellaring. A Pinot with a light
touch that one could spend time with.
2003 Miura Silacci Vineyard Monterey County Pinot Noir
$54. Vinified by Byron
Kosuge (formerly Saintsbury, now B. Kosuge Wines, Mirua, and Kinston Family in
The nose opens with air time to appealing berry, spice and oak aromas. Flavors of
dark Pinot fruits have a rustic and earthy edge. A soft, elegant style with gossamer tannins.
The nose trumps the flavors at this stage.
Wally’s Central Coast Wine & Food Celebration
This 4th Annual event benefiting the Michael Bonaccorsi Scholarship Fund at the University of California Davis
Department of Viticulture and Enology was held recently on Sunday, August 5. Jenne Lee Bonaccorsi, who is
now making the wine for Bonaccorsi Wine Company, told me the event was a big success. The final tally is not
in, but close to $50,000 was raised. 20% more people attended than last year, and another 100 walk-up people
were turned away. The celebration was held outdoors in a big tent on a glorious Southern California day. 54
wineries were pouring and the food was outrageously good from restaurants like Spago Beverly Hills, Pizzeria
Mozza, La Brea Bakery, Campanile, Lucques/A.O.C., Literati II, Sushi Roku, Hitching Post, Hungry Cat and more.
A few Pinots stood out for me: 2005 Melville Terraces Pinot Noir, 2005 Ambullneo Rancho Ontiveros Pinot
Noir, 2003 Calera Mt Harlen Mills Pinot Noir, 2005 Native 9 Santa Maria Pinot Noir, 2005 Paul Lato Solomon
Hills “Suerte” Pinot Noir, 2005 Row Eleven Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, and the 2005 Tantara La
Colline Arroyo Grande Pinot Noir.
There are two new publications on Central Coast wineries that are worth a look. The Central Coast region from
Santa Barbara to Paso Robles has been overlooked and in need of a comprehensive reference source.
California’s Central Coast The Ultimate Winery Guide
, Mira Advani Honeycutt, photos by
Kirk Irwin, forward by Jim Clendenen, paperback, 120 pp, 2007, $22.95,
. Absolutely stunning photography throughout. There is extensive
coverage of 30 wineries including three regional maps showing these winery locations. A
directory of all Central Coast Wineries is included. Packed with information on winery tours,
the Central Coast food connection, the small towns of the Coast, and local resources, this is
an impressive source of useful information. There are no wine reviews included.
The Wine Tasting Guide to California’s Central Coast
, Mike O’Beirne, paperback, 296 pp., 2007, $19.95, Old
Vine Publishing Company, www.amazon.com
. 230 wineries featured. I have not seen this book as yet.
Sonoma County Grape Camp
Billed as the ultimate wine and food adventure, this
“camp” is held September 24-26, 2007. Day One offers
a welcoming dinner at Hoot Owl Vineyard in the Alexander
Valley. Day Two campers harvest grapes and
then visit Sonoma-Cutrer for a tasting of the just
crushed grape juice with winemaker Terry Adams,
followed by lunch. In the afternoon, there is a food and
wine workshop at the Vintners Inn with Chef John Ash.
In the evening, a paella feast and wine tasting party is
held along the banks of the Russian River. Day Three
begins with more vineyard harvesting and then off to
Ferrari-Carano to blend wine with winemaker Aaron
Piotter. Lunch follows at the winery. In the afternoon,
travel to Redwood hill Farm for a cheese making tour
and a session on wine and cheese pairing. Graduation
follows in the afternoon. For information, visit the
website at www.SonomaGrapeCamp.com
. Cost is
$1,500 per person per couple including two nights at the