2011 Pinot Noir All-Americans
It has become an annual tradition to name my favorite Pinot Noir performers at the end of the year. This issue
always stirs up the pot, for picking the best in any lineup of wines is always controversial.
There are a number of steps I take to arrive at the wines that I most recommend in the PinotFile each year and
then chose the best as All-Americans. The honored wines have all been tasted at my home in a quiet setting in
the late morning and over the course of a day or two. The wines come directly from my home cellar at about
63ºF and are all tasted in identical Riedel Vinum Burgundy or Riedel Oregon Pinot Noir stemware. I usually
taste 6 to 8 wines a day, giving each wine adequate time to open up in the glass and I make several passes as
I taste each wine carefully. Occasionally I will decant a wine if the winemaker recommends it or if I think this
will benefit the evaluation.
I do not taste the wines blind, but strive for integrity, consistency and objectivity. I take my responsibility
seriously. There are three reasons that I do not taste blind. First, I prefer to evaluate wines in the same
manner as the consumer experiences them. Second, I believe an essential part of judging wine is to know
what you are drinking. Third, I often have all the production information of the wine at hand that assists me in
understanding the wine. The more background information I have, the more I am likely to discover in the wine.
As Jamie Goode has pointed out, "When we are tasting blind, there is a limit to what we can say about the wine that is in front of us."
I tend to focus on current drink ability, since most consumers prefer to drink their wines relatively young. I most
appreciate wines that are at or close to their best the days I taste them. That said, credence is given to age
ability particularly in the context of balance. I often re-taste wines later in the day with food at dinner to
replicate the consumer’s drinking experience, or the next day or two from an opened and re-corked (but not
gassed) bottle. The latter gives me insight into the quality, balance and age ability of the wine.
I do not award scores to wines, preferring to give an unpretentious, concise, and descriptive review to reveal
the style and quality of the wine that the reader can easily understand and appreciate. I am convinced that an
apropos description of a wine is not only more challenging to arrive at than awarding a score, but it is the fairest
way to evaluate a wine. The Pinot Geek icon is used to designate wines of exceptional merit and these wines
are the only ones considered for All-American honors. The Value icon is used to indicate wines of good or
better quality that are value priced (less than $35).
It is very challenging to single out wines from the vast array of stellar Pinot Noir currently being crafted in
California and Oregon. As wine maker Daniel Baron has said, “You have to remember this when you think
about judging wines. They’re alive and changing moment to moment; they have good days and bad; they show well in a particular glass or with particular food. Judging a wine at any particular moment in life is like giving a
kid a letter grade based on his behavior in the supermarket.”
Aromatics, flavor nuances, texture, balance, and finishing persistence all come in to play in finding those
special wines that stand out from the pack. Often it is not an objective feature, but the emotion that the wine
elicits that sets the wine apart. There are many technically sound wines today but All-Americans have a
powerful charisma. It is a truth that it is not what is said or written about a special wine, but what is emoted that
truly defines a wine’s greatness. Veronique Drouhin-Boss, the winemaker at Oregon’s Domaine Drouhin, has
said it best, “There are plenty of good wines in the world that give you pleasure. A great wine gives you
emotion.” Remington Norman, in his latest book, Grand Cru, notes, “The impact of great wine is as much
emotional as sensorial and, in any case, at the topmost level one runs out of distinctive superlatives.”
The All-Americans are judged on merit, independent of price, vintage and region of origin. I drink a fair
amount of red Burgundy, but leave the critical evaluation of these wines to others more dedicated to that
region. I also taste and review Chardonnay, Pinot Noir’s cool climate partner.
I have no monetary arrangement with any winegrower, winery, retailer or wholesaler. I do accept wines for
review but about a third of the wines I sample are bought directly from a winery or through customary retail
channels. There are many Pinot Noirs that I sample casually at wineries (including barrel samples), social
dinners, Pinot Noir festivals, competitive wine judging events, wine tastings and wine dinners, but I do not
include these wines in the All-American selection process. Only finished, bottled wines that are formally tasted
in controlled, and therefore comparable, circumstances are eligible for All-American consideration.
I attempt to separate my personal Pinot Noir stylistic preferences from the objective assessment of the wines.
The stylistic superiority of power versus finesse, “New World” versus “Old World,” and high alcohol versus low
alcohol continues to be debated, but the inimitability of either style will in the end be decided by the consumer.
The best style is the one that gives the drinker the most pleasure. I try to steer a neutral course and reward
wines for their excellence regardless of “style.” It boils down to distinguishing between appreciating and
liking. That said, I must admit preferring (liking) wines with under 14.2% alcohol since they are often more
balanced, easier to drink, more compatible with food, allow you to drink two or three glasses without getting
sideways, and confer the health benefits associated with taking in moderate amounts of alcohol.
Of the wines receiving All-American awards in this issue, nearly all the wines were from the 2008 and 2009
vintages. The California Pinot Noirs ranged in alcohol percentage from 12.3 to 15.5 with 50% of the wines
between 14.1 and 14.5 alcohol. In comparison, the Oregon Pinot Noirs ranged in alcohol percentage from 12.4
to 15.0 with 55% between 13.6 and 14.0 alcohol. The two charts below reflect this difference. Keep in mind that
the alcohol percentages are not always “honest,” but taken from labels or tech sheets. Since a 1% reporting
leeway is permissible with wines above 14.0% alcohol, the actual percentage in many cases is higher. It is
noteworthy that at least one prominent wine publication (Wine Enthusiast) and one wine competition (San
Francisco Chronicle Top 100 Wines of 2011) now report the alcohol percentage of their rated wines along with
case production and price. I believe I was the first published wine critic to include alcohol percentage in my
wine reviews, something I began doing in 2005.
I wish to emphasize that I do not take my reviews as gospel. I always keep in mind the tenant written by noted
New Zealand winemaker Neil McCallum, namely, “The difficult art of wine tasting requires a considerable
measure of humility.” I preach that you use my tasting notes as a guide, but trust your own palate. Focus
more on the producer than any one specific wine.
The awarded wines are listed in alphabetical order or from lowest to highest price in the case of value-priced
wines. Many of the wines are still available from the winery, through retail distribution or the secondary
marketplace. When possible, I will indicate a source for the wine. Even though some wines are offered only to
mailing list members, they may still be available and it is always worthwhile to make a phone inquiry. The
reality is that the economy has posed a challenge for wineries selling wines priced above $50. A few of the
most desirable wines are highly allocated, sold out, or only available through a reseller or auction marketplace.
The best free wine search engines are wine-searcher.com, vinquire.com, vinopedia.com, winezap.com and
wineaccess.com. If there is a Pinot Noir you just have to have and are unable to locate it, contact me and I will
try to track it down for you through my connections. Keep in mind, there will always be another vintage and top
producers make quality wine consistently in each vintage. The wine may not be the same song, but it will be
the same composer. Membership in winery wine clubs or participation in a winery’s mailing list are good ways
to insure that you obtain highly coveted Pinot Noirs from a popular producer.
Current prices of awarded North American Pinot Noirs featured in this issue span the range from $5.99 to
$100. Generally, quality of life with Pinot Noir begins at $20, but expect to pay at least twice this for many
special wines. The 115 California Pinot Noirs awarded the Pinot Geek designation in 2011 had a price range of
$28 to $100. The 35 Oregon Pinot Noirs receiving the Pinot Geek designation in 2011 ranged in price from $35
to $100. 16 wines from California and Oregon received both a Pinot Geek icon and Value icon designation
($15-$35). The California wines awarded the Value Icon ranged in price from $6 to $35 and the Oregon wines
receiving the Value icon had a price range of $18 to $35. The Chardonnays awarded the Golden Geek icon
ranged in price from $21 to $75. 2 California Chardonnays received both a Golden Geek icon and Value icon.
Collecting and drinking Pinot Noir can be a rich man’s game if only trophy wines are sought. There are a
number of cult level Pinot Noirs from California and Oregon that are priced at or above $100. Fortunately, there
are many satisfying Pinot Noirs on the market that are priced less than $35. The increasing role of negociants
in the production of inexpensive Pinot Noir has made these so called value-priced Pinot Noirs more available
than ever. The 2011 Value Pinot Noir All-Americans represent the best $35 and under North American Pinot
Noirs I sampled this year. Value Pinot Noirs do not match up in quality of fruit, aromatic sophistication, and
flavor nuances compared to the more expensive prestige bottlings. You get what you pay for.
I do not keep exact counts, but the number of corked wines is diminishing and is only about 1% of the wines I
sample. Another 5% of wines do not appear to be corked but are just not right. I had two problems this year
with corked wines I should make you aware of. In one case, I bought an older vintage of a wine from a retailer
and the wine was corked. The retailer did not have a replacement and would not refund my considerable
investment. When you buy older wines, you buy at your own risk. The other corked wine came from a major
east coast retailer (Sherry-Lehman) and was a recent vintage. I contacted the retailer by e-mail after detecting
the corked bottle, and as is often the case, the retailer wanted to pick up the bottle for verification before
sending a replacement bottle. Keep this in mind when you come across a corked wine. Fortunately, for
samples at least, I usually have two bottles and only report a review of the stellar bottle. I have not met with
any problems with screw cap closures, but these are rare in California and Oregon on premium bottlings.
Today, the number of flawed commercial wines is extremely low.
You will notice that there are fewer Honorable Mention awards for Oregon Pinot Noirs compared to California
Pinot Noirs. That is simply because I am based in California, travel more often to California wine regions, and
taste about three times more California Pinot Noirs in an average year. This in no way represents a reflection
of relative quality of Pinot Noir between the two states.
There are a few awarded wines for which the reviews have not appeared in the PinotFile in 2011 but qualified
for All-American consideration. This is because the wines were tasted in December, 2011, but will not be
included in a newsletter write-up until 2012.
Some of your favorite producers may not be mentioned because I wasn’t able to taste the wines from every
California and Oregon winery that releases a Pinot Noir. For the Pinot Noirs that were left out of the awards this
year, the words of Mark Twain ring true, “It is better to deserve honors and not have them, than to have them
and not deserve them.”
2011 California Pinot Noir All-Americans First Team
2008 Alysian Hallberg Crossroads Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 160 cases, $55.
Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Really impressive fruity nose offering vibrant aromas of ripe
cherries and strawberries with hints of graham, BBQ and sandalwood. Mid-weight essence of fresh cherries
and red berries with a subtle note of roasted nuts in the background from oak. Dry, fine-grain tannins provide
support for this pretty wine that exudes charm. Very Russian River Valley in character, exhibiting a more
restrained interpretation of this vineyard source, and a wine of exemplary pinotosity. Available at
2008 Calera Wine Company Jensen Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir 14.7% alc., 829 cases, $70.
Moderately light in color with mainly reddish tones. Subdued but seductive aromas of dark red cherries and
berries, charcoal and spice. Lighter in weight than the other single-vineyard Calera offerings in this vintage
and unusually light for Jensen. Flavors of ripe strawberries, pie cherries and red raspberries with an appealing
spice box accent, enrobed in well-proportioned dusty tannins which peak out on the dry and persistently
aromatic finish. Very creamy and soft in texture. Calera’s signature Pinot Noir, deserving of all the accolades
one can muster for this vintage. Available at www.calerawine.com.
2008 Cobb Jack Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 215 cases, $68. Demure aromas of
cherry and berry fruits nicely spiced and accented by underbrush. Absolutely delicious melange of fresh
cherries and berries with complimentary hints of spice, oak and minerality. Juicy, with impressive persistence
on the finish. A lighter-bodied wine with gossamer tannins that has a very appealing and seductive gentleness.
Available only through a mailing list that closed in 2011 (I warned you).
2009 Husch Nash Mill Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 18 cases, $40. Moderately light in
color in the glass. Embracing aromas of black cherries, black raspberries and woodshed picking up intensity
over time in the glass. An hi-collared wine with crisp and bright flavors of dark cherries, dark red berries, cola,
baking spice and Hoison sauce, wrapped in ripe, grainy tannins, finishing with an amazing persistence rarely
experienced with California Pinot Noir. Beautiful interplay between fruit and tannin. Class in the glass that will
thoroughly please Pinot connoisseurs. Available at www.klwines.com.
2007 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.5% alc., $90. Moderately dark reddish-purple
color in the glass. Muted aromas of dark cherries and berries, rose petals, oak cask and vanilla pod
which unfold slowly in the glass. Incredible, mouth coating dark stone and berry fruit, balanced with soft, sturdy
tannins, lingering appealingly on the aromatic finish. The wine is still tight, but it is clearly, evident that the fruit
is perfectly ripe and the oak is properly integrated. This is an amazing, off-the-charts Pinot Noir that in five to
ten years will be the star of your cellar. Figure out a way to get your hands on a few bottles of this beauty.
Spectacular later in the day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Available through secondary
marketplace only (mailing list full).
2009 Kutch Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., 264 cases, $48. Moderately dark
reddish-purple color in the glass. Subdued aromas of black fruits, forest floor, vanilla and graham. A silky body
of earthy, spicy boysenberry and plum brings the mid palate to attention. Beautifully balanced with lively
acidity, ripe tannins and moderately rich flavors acting in harmony, capped by impressive persistence of fruit
flavors on the generous finish. The pedigree of the fruit really comes through. Still great the next day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle. Will definitely benefit from a few years in the cellar, but can be
approached now with decanting. A wine to contemplate. Available through secondary marketplace only (sold
only through a mailing list).
2008 Paul Lato Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir14.7% alc., 125 cases, $70. Gorgeous
aromas of black cherries and Grandma’s fresh berry preserves with a hint of spice box including cardamom.
The showy dark berry and plum fruit really sings on the palate. A man’s Pinot with plenty of sinewy tannin
framing the lush fruit, but not at all foreboding. The finish has plenty of length. Softer and even more
expressive the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. I have three words for this wine:
delicious, seductive and beguiling. Available only through a mailing list and now sold out.
2008 Pisoni Vineyards & Winery Pisoni Estate Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., $60.
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Lovely aromas of dark plums, boysenberries and sassafras
with some nuanced floral and spice elements dancing in and out. Righteous juice that charms with its perfectly
ripe, sappy fruit flavors and soft, silky mouth feel. Seamless with unbelievable persistence on the superbly
intense finish. Descriptors cannot do this wine justice. One of the greatest California Pinot Noirs I have ever
had the good fortune to drink. Available through secondary marketplace only (sold only through a mailing list
and sold out).
2008 Tantara Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 14.5% alc., 387 cases, $52. Opens
slowly in the glass, seducing you gradually. Enticing aromas of dark cherries with a hint of dark chocolate and
spice. Amazingly persistent on the palate and through the lengthy finish. The flavors of plum and black cherry
are intense and vivid, yet the wine retains a charming, silky finesse. Even better the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle. Angelina Jolie in dark red velvet. Available at
2008 Thomas George Estates Baker Ridge Backbone Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.5% alc.,
60 cases, $65. Moderately deep reddish-purple color in the glass. The wine offers a bright array of aromas
with staying power in the glass including scents of berry jam, spice and complimentary oak. Charming core of
perfectly ripened cherry and berry fruits with a hint of brown spice set off by bright acidity and caressed by firm,
but abiding tannins. Impeccable balance for the long haul. Very classy juice. Available only to winery Pioneer
Club members (all eight 2008 TGE Pinot Noirs are sold out).
2008 Woodenhead Buena Tierra Vineyard Original Planting Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc.,
198 cases, $60. Brooding aromas of cherries, spice and oak vanillin. Delicious fruit bombast featuring
perfectly ripe flavors of black cherries and black raspberries, with notes of sassafras, cola and exotic spices.
Very broad in the mouth and distinctive, leaving a lovely cherry kiss on the lingering finish. Harmonious in
every way. I guarantee you're going to love this wine. Last vintage for this venerable vineyard due to phylloxera.
Available at www.woodenheadwine.com.
2011 California Pinot Noir All-Americans Second Team
2009 Arista Winery Ferrington Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 213 cases, $56. While
the Arista Perli Vineyard Pinot Noir seduces you, the Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir overwhelms you.
Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Nicely composed aromas of black raspberries and blackberries
touched by oak and loam picking up interest over time in the glass. Endowed with rich tasting, earthy black
plum and blackberry fruit wrapped in supple tannins. The wine grabs hold of the mid palate, surrounds it and
refuses to relinquish its hold, before finally conceding to a Grand Cru ending that is like a three-hour movie you
don’t want to end. A beautiful representation of this distinguished vineyard. Available through “A-List” mailing
list members at www.aristawinery.com.
2009 Auteur Manchester Ridge Mendocino Ridge Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 182 cases, $50. Moderately deep
reddish-purple color in the glass. Demure, but seductive perfume of fresh black raspberries, black cherries,
spice and vanilla wafers. Perfectly composed and seamless with delicious flavors of berries and fresh cherries
accented by notes of cola, baking spices and mocha, wrapped in silky tannins. Plenty of vim and vigor with a
remarkably long finish. Still great the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle predicting a long
life ahead. I have had several stunning wines from this vineyard. Available to mailing list customers at
2009 Davis Family Vineyards Starr Ridge Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 225
cases, $40. Medium ruby color in the glass. Quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot Noir sporting aromas
and flavors of Bing cherries, baking spices and cola with a moderate dose of red raspberries and red currants.
Still has firm tannins that will soften over time, but the wine is very enticing now. Finishes strong with
impressive mouth coating intensity and a refreshing riff of acidity. A classy wine from a mature vineyard that is
now coming in to its own. Available at www.davisfamilyvineyards.com.
2009 Drew Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir 13.9% alc., $40. Moderate reddish-purple color in
the glass. Complex nose that unfolds slowly revealing many nuances including aromas of dark berries and
black plums, mushrooms, bramble, spice and rose petal. Delicious core of fresh plum compote wrapped in
firm, but well-honed tannins, attacking the mid palate with conviction, and persisting on the soft finish that
shows a riff of citrus and a perfume of plum sauce. Deft balance between richness, acidity and tannin. It is
wines like this that make Pinot my paramour. Available through New Release Club; recently released so
inquire at 707-877-1771.
2009 DuMOL Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 3,900 cases, $64. This wine was a revelation.
Moderately deep reddish-purple color in the glass. Lovely, demure aromas of dark red cherries and berries
and brioche. Sinfully delicious with intense, sweet flavors of black cherries, spice and Hoison sauce. Polished
and classy, seductively silky on the palate, with suede tannins and perfect integration of oak, ending with a
juicy finish that lures you back to the glass. Impeccable balance. One of the highest priced Russian River
Valley appellation wines, but everything you could ask for, and worth every penny. Available through a mailing
list (pre release members) at www.dumol.com with limited retail and restaurant distribution.
2009 Eric Kent Small Town Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.7% alc., 288 cases, $45. Moderately light
reddish-purple hue in the glass. Shy but very pleasant perfume of dark red berries, black cherries, Asian spice
and cola, becoming more expressive in the glass over time. Vigorous with dark red fruit flavor, complimented
by notes of sassafras and spice including clove. Possessing plenty of character with svelte tannins and
welcoming acidity on the generous finish. Really spectacular two days later from a previously opened and re-corked
bottle. Best Pinot ever from winemaker Kent Humphries. Available through a mailing list at
www.erickentwines.com, currently sold out.
2009 Freestone Vineyards Estate Grown Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 4,660 cases, $55.
Moderately deep reddish-purple color in the glass. Subdued nose initially, picking up intensity over time in the
glass, offering a fresh blend of cherries and berries with a floral element in the background. Very impressive
concentration, even sappy on the mid palate, with generous and expressive flavors of black cherries, black
raspberries and Hoison sauce, lifted by hi-tone acidity, and caressed by gentle, ripe tannins. An impressive
hedonistic style of wine with the right touch of acidity, a creamy mouth feel and admirable balance. Good
approachability now but has excellent aging potential. Available at www.freestonevineyards.com.
2009 Kosta Browne Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 14.7% alc., 439 cases, $72. Dark
and dense reddish-purple color in the glass. Reserved but pleasing aromas of black stone fruits with
complimentary oak spice and anise. Rich, full, sweet and beautifully composed black plum and blackberry
flavors that offer real density and a mouth coating finish of unbelievable persistence. Fruit-driven and primary
now, but the gorgeous fruit is impossible to ignore. I have never tasted anything so sensual from this vineyard.
Wowzaa! Available through the secondary marketplace; sold out at the winery via mailing list at
2008 Rhys Vineyards Swan Terrace Alpine Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 13.0% alc., $69.
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. With intense swirling, an appealing scent of mixed berry
preserves, crushed black grapes, and a hint of floral perfume emerges. The wine offers well-endowed flavors
of plum sauce and dark red raspberries, cola and grilled meat. Rather linear now with the fruit buried in
flamboyant tannins. There is an earth and mineral infused quality to the fruit which is appealing and I sense
that this wine will perform beautifully in another five years. The wine benefited from re-corking the bottle and
sampling it the next day. A connoisseur’s wine with unlimited potential. Available only to mailing list customers
2009 Siduri Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 298 cases, $50. Enticing
aromas of black cherries, deeply colored berries and cola. A lip smacker with oodles of fruit that saturates the
palate and persists on the finish with a clinging vengeance. Soft and smoothly textured with relaxed tannins.
This is a kick-ass Pinot that will bring you to your knees. Available to mailing list customers at www.siduri.com
with limited retail distribution.
2008 Windy Oaks Limited Release 100% Whole Cluster Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 13.9% alc.,
173 cases, $55. Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Remarkably effusive aromas of black
cherries, vanilla, musk and spice. Delicious essence of fresh black cherry pie with subtle notes of baking
spices, cola and oak. Almost creamy, with moderate fine-grain tannins. Discreetly rich and fully ripe fruit with a
striking note of cherry on the finish. The whole cluster fermentation confers a seductive mouth feel and a
charming spice note. Very special.
2011 California Pinot Noir All-Americans Honorable Mention
2009 Kosta Browne 4-Barrel
2009 Anthill Farms Comptche Ridge Vineyard
2007 Lula Cellars
2009 Arista Perli Vineyard
2009 Drew The Gatekeeper
2009 Anthill Farms Demuth Vineyard
2009 Brogan Cellars My Father’s Vineyard Shula’s Pond
2009 Brogan Cellars Morning Dew Ranch
2009 Black Kite Kite’s Rest
2009 Black Kite Stony Terrace Block
2009 Copain “Les Voisons”
2009 Couloir Londer Vineyard
2009 Couloir Monument Tree Vineyard
2009 Drew Fog-Eater
2009 Gros Ventre Cerise Vineyard
2009 MacPhail Raye’s Hill Vineyard
2009 MacPhail Wightman House Vineyard
2009 Skewis Ridley Vineyard
2009 Twomey Anderson Valley
2008 Bjørnstad Hellenthal Vineyard
2009 Castello di Amorosa King Ridge Vineyard
2008 Cobb Emmaline Ann Vineyard
2009 Drew McDougall Ranch Vineyard
2009 Freestone Quarter Moon Vineyard
2007 Hirsch San Andreas
2009 Kosta Browne Kanzler Vineyard
2009 Kutch McDougall Ranch
2009 Peay Estate Vineyard
2009 Red Car Heaven & Earth Bohemian Station Vineyard
2009 Rivers-Marie Summa Vineyard
2009 Small Vines MK Vineyard
2009 Wren Hop Siren’s Lure
Russian River Valley
2008 Alysian Starr Ridge Vineyard East Terrace
2009 Arista “Longbow”
2009 Arista Mononi Vineyard
2009 Benovia Cohn Vineyard (Sonoma County)
2002 Castalia Rochioli Vineyard
2003 Castalia Rochioli Vineyard
2007 Castalia Rochioli Vineyard
2008 Castalia Rochioli Vineyard
2009 Castalia Rochioli Vineyard
2009 Davis Family Vineyards Russian River Valley
2009 Davis Family Vineyards Horseshoe Bend
2007 Davis Family Vineyards PinnaCole
2008 Dehlinger Goldridge Vineyard
2009 george Vintage VII Ceremonial Vineyard
2009 george Vintage VII Martaella & King Family Vineyards
2009 george Vintage VII Leras Family Vineyard
2007 Inman Family OGV
2008 Inman Family OGV
2001 J. Rochioli West Block Rochioli Vineyard
2002 J. Rochioli West Block Rochioli Vineyard
2003 J. Rochioli West Block Rochioli Vineyard
2003 J. Rochioli East Block Rochioli Vineyard
2004 J. Rochioli East Block Rochioli Vineyard
2008 Kosta Browne Koplen Vineyard
2009 Kosta Browne Amber Ridge Vineyard
2008 Emtu Labyrinth Vineyard
2008 Lynmar Quail Hill Estate
2008 Mueller August Recher
2008 Mueller Eastside
2008 Papapietro Perry Pommard Clones
2009 Patz & Hall Chenowith Ranch
2009 Siduri Keefer Ranch
2008 Talisman Gunsalus Vineyard
2009 Thomas George Estates Russian River Valley
2009 Thomas George Estates Baker Ridge Vineyard
2008 WesMar Balletto Vineyard
2008 WesMar Salzgeber Vineyard
2009 Esterlina Cole Ranch Reserve
2009 Bailiwick Silver Pines Vineyard
2007 Talisman Red Dog Vineyard Dijon
2008 Campesino Cellars Papi y Chula Vineyard
2008 Donum Estate West Slope
2008 Donum Estate Thomas
2007 Kent Rasmussen Carneros
2008 Stemmler Ferguson Block
Santa Cruz Mountains
2009 Mount Eden Estate
2008 Neely Upper Picnic Block Spring Ridge Vineyard
2006 Rhys Alpine Vineyard Hillside
2008 Rhys Alpine Vineyard
2008 Windy Oaks Proprietor’s Reserve
Santa Lucia Highlands
2009 Kosta Browne Garys’ Vineyard
2008 Kosta Browne Rosella’s Vineyard
2008 Kosta Browne Pisoni Vineyard
2008 Paul Lato “Lancelot” Pisoni Vineyard
2007 Tondré Tondré Grapefield
2008 Calera Mills Vineyard
Santa Maria Valley & San Luis Obispo County
2005 Arcadian Dierberg Vineyard
2009 Byron Nielson Vineyard
2008 Derby Wine Estates Derbyshire Vineyard
2008 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard
2008 Sinor-La Valle Anniversary Cuvèe
2008 Tantara Bien Nacido Vineyard Old Vines
2009 Twomey Bien Nacido Vineyard
2008 Wild Horse Cheval Sauvage
Sta. Rita Hills
2005 Arcadian Fiddlestix Vineyard
2009 Carr Kessler-Haak Vineyard
2008 Samsara Ampelos Vineyard
2009 Sea Smoke Ten
The chart above indicates that 42% of the wines were priced between $36 and $49, and 58% were priced
between $50 and $100.
2011 California Value Priced Pinot Noir All-Americans
Wines that received both my highest accolade (Pinot Geek icon) and were $35 or less (Value icon) are
indicated by • and listed first.
• 2010 Ellipsis Wine Co Russian River Valley Rosé $15
• 2010 La Rochelle Santa Lucia Highlands Rosé $22
• 2009 La Crema Monterey $24
• 2008 Briceland Vineyards Phelps Vineyard Humboldt County $27
• 2009 Briceland Vineyards Elk Prarie Vineyard Humboldt County $27
• 2007 Sheldon Marin County $28
• 2010 Inman Family OGV “Endless Crush” Russian River Valley Rosé $30
• 2009 Waxwing Sonoma Coast $30
• 2009 Saracina Klindt Vineyard Anderson Valley $30
• 2007 Mahoney Vineyards Mahoney Ranch Vineyard Carneros $32
• 2007 Scherrer Russian River Valley $32
• 2008 Calera de Villiers Vineyard $35
Many of the following wines are widely distributed in wine retail and supermarket stores and most are currently
available. They are often discounted below the listed prices. Pinot Noirs priced at $60 and more have been
decried as the “dead zone” because the poor economy in recent years has made it difficult to sell wines in this
price category. The wines below, however, can be considered to be in the “fun zone,” and scoring these wines
can make you feel good about skirting a punishing economy.
2009 Redtree California $5.99
2009 Mark West California $8.50
2009 Castle Rock Mendocino $10
2010 The Pinot Project California $10
2009 Jargon California $10
2010 Hahn Winery Monterey $12
2009 Carmenet Vintner’s Collection Reserve $12
2009 It’s A Headsnapper $13
2009 The Other Guys Moobuzz Monterey $15
2008 Ventana Arroyo Seco $16.50
2009 Fleur de California Carneros $17
2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve $18
2009 Mary Elke Anderson Valley $18
2009 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County $19
2009 Patianna Organic Vineyards Mendocino $20
2008 Carmel Road Monterey $20
2009 Carmel Road Monterey $20
2007 Mahoney Vineyards Carneros $22
2007 Steele Santa Barbara County $22
2009 Calera Central Coast $24
2009 Balletto Russian River Valley $24
2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley $24
2009 Thomas Fogarty Santa Cruz Mountains $24
2008 Willowbrook Sonoma County $24
2009 Laetitia Estate Arroyo Grande $25
2009 Nuggucciet Cellars Santa Maria Valley $25
2009 Byron Santa Maria Valley $25
2009 The Bohan-Dillon Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast $26
2009 Cartha Sonoma Coast $26
2009 Lutea Los Carneros $26
2008 Briceland Vineyards Elk Prarie Vineyard $27
2009 Straight Line Anderson Valley $28
2007 Selby Russian River Valley $28
2008 Montage Vineyards Flocchini Vineyard Sonoma Coast $28
2008 Pellegrini Family Vineyards Olivet Lane $28
2008 Sinor-La Valle San Luis Obispo County $29
2009 Pali Wine Co Summit Central Coast $29
2009 Windsor Sonoma Russian River Valley $30
2009 Siduri Russian River Valley $30
2009 Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands $30
2009 Siduri Sonoma Coast $30
2009 Jus Soli Bennett Valley $30
2007 Macrae Family Vineyards Bacigalupi Vineyard $30
2007 Mahoney Vineyards Las Brisas Vineyard Carneros $32
2007 Kendric Marin County $34
2008 Bonneau Sangiacomo Vineyards Los Carneros $34
2009 Bonneau Sangiacomo Vineyards Sonoma Coast $35
2008 Kendric Marin County $35
2009 Fogdog Sonoma Coast $35
2009 Carmel Road Arroyo Seco Clark Ranch $35
2008 Trecini Vincini Vineyard Russian River Valley $35
2011 Oregon Pinot Noir All-Americans First Team
2008 Anam Cara Reserve Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 14.0% alc., 180 cases, $40.
Moderate reddish-purple hue in the glass. Very alluring aromas of dark plums, blackberries and black cherries
with a hint of complimentary oak. Lovely core of earth-kissed and intensely flavored black cherry and black
raspberry fruit. Ripe and sweet, round and polished. Silky smooth with perfect integration of oak and a
glorious finish that lasts and lasts. Best Reserve ever from Anam Cara. Available in the secondary
marketplace; sold out at winery.
2009 Antica Terra Estate Grown Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.6% alc., $100.
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. An engaging Pinot Noir with a gorgeous perfume of wild
berries, Christmas spices, mesquite, underbrush and coffee. The allure carries through on the palate with
layers of flavorful dark berries, savory additions of leaf and spice, an exotic note of musk, and a complimentary
underpinning of smoky oak. Impeccably balanced and very sensual in the mouth. A beautiful food wine that
was even better the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. If this Pinot were a lover instead
of a wine, it’s one that would make you leave your family, abandon your job, and forfeit your hard-won respect
in the community for just one more fling. Available through the winery mailing list at www.antica-terra.com.
2008 Beaux Frères The Beaux Frères Vineyard Ribbon Ridge Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.6% alc.,
$80. Moderately light in color with a red tone. The aromatics are relatively closed, revealing more toasty oak
than fruit. The wine offers much more on the elegant palate, with discreetly rich and pleasing flavors of
strawberries, cherries and oak accents that linger on the juicy finish. Well-integrated acidity and tannins offer a
harmony that predicts 10+ years of longevity. Stunning the next day from a previously opened and re-corked
bottle indicating the wine needs cellaring. There is nothing like older vine fruit. Available at
2009 Coelho Winery Paciência Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.0% alc., 525 cases, $40. Moderate
reddish-purple color in the glass. Bombastic aromas of black cherries, spice, seasoned oak, brier and rose
petal. Stunning black cherry and black raspberry liquor-like flavor. Palate-staining, yet discreetly concentrated
and light on its feet, finishing with large scale fruit flavors that last for a minute. Hints of allspice, oak and tar in
the background. Still great the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. An instant festive
occasion. Available at retailer Total Wine; sold out at the winery.
2008 Cristom Eileen Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 14.0% alc., 659 cases, $50.
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Subdued and mysterious perfume of black fruits, spice and
stem. Fresh and juicy on the palate with very impressive extraction and a prodigious tannic backbone. The
flavors of fresh blackberries, Hoison sauce and Asian 5-spice are reserved and take a back seat to the tannins
at present. Still, there is amazing Grand Cru persistence on the huge finish. Tremendous potential here, but
will take years to fulfill. Available from the winery at www.cristom.com and select wine retailers.
2008 Domaine Drouhin Laurène Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.9% alc., $65. Moderately
light reddish-purple color in the glass. The fruit aromas have not completely arrived in the wine, so the scent of
dark red cherries and berries is overshadowed by oak. Bright and lively flavors of black cherries, black
raspberries, cola and sassafras led by oak undertones that are prominent at this immature stage. A serious,
polished wine that is moderately intense and structured, yet displays an admirable elegance, finishing with
remarkable length. You could drink a bottle now, but it would be a crime as the wine needs several years to
emerge and shed its oak wrap. Drink the superb and more approachable 2008 Domaine Drouhin Willamette
Valley bottling while you wait for the Laurène to mature. Available at the winery at www.domainedrouhin.com
and from select wine retailers nationally.
2009 Laura Volkman Rachel Estate Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.7% alc., 125
cases, $50. Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. I had to look up some superlatives for this one. The
perfume reminds me of the early summer first crop of fresh berries covered in vanilla pastry creme. Silky and
elegant on the palate with well-mannered fine-grain tannins and intensely flavored core of black cherries,
raspberries, sandalwood, vanillin, herbs and spice brought into focus by a good cut of acidity. The most
appropriate superlative I could find was “heavenly.” Available from the winery at www.volkmanvineyards.com
and retailer www.northwest-wine.com.
2008 Soter Vineyards Mineral Springs Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.8% alc.,
$40. Moderate reddish-purple hue in the glass. Terrific nose with bright aromas of ripe berries, forest floor and
good barnyard. Remarkably flavored in the mouth with a depth and richness of cherry and berry flavor that
defies description. Soft and elegant with well-proportioned tannin and acidity. One of the best 2008 Oregon
Pinot Noirs I have tasted and a superb cellar candidate. Available from fine wine retailers. The winery has the
white label Mineral Springs Pinot Noir ($85) available at www.sotervineyards.com.
2009 The Eyrie Vineyards Original Vines Reserve Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc.,
$60. Moderately light reddish-purple hue in the glass. Enticing aromas of strawberries, raspberries and melon.
Perfectly balanced with a charming array of Pinot fruits showing more restraint than the Estate bottling, but
offering more long-term potential. The epitome of the “Eyrie style,” with a sexy silkiness, elegance and a touch
of terroir-driven dried herbs on the finish. Showing a little oak vanillin now due to its young age. The harmony
and breeding of this wine predicts a long cellar life ahead. An Oregon classic Available from the winery at
2008 Tyee Wine Cellars Estate Barrel Select Willamette Valley Pinot Noir13.5% alc., 100 cases, $35.
Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Reserved but pleasing scent of fresh cherries and
raspberries with a hint of spice and rose petal. Similar flavor profile to the Estate bottling but with more
intensity, more persistence, and more sophistication. The perfectly ripened fruit has a dark red profile, the dry
tannins and crisp acidity frame the fruit beautifully, and the silky finish makes a lasting impression. A perfect
argument for the superiority of old vine Pinot Noir. The wine was still great the following day from a previously
opened and re-corked bottle, but I couldn’t report beyond this as I eagerly finished the bottle. An exceptional
wine that is much more approachable than many reserve Pinot Noirs from Oregon’s 2008 vintage. A vin de
garde for Oregon in 2008. Remarkably, still available from the winery at www.tyeewine.com.
2009 White Rose Estate White Rose Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., 308
cases, $70. Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Glorious nose offering aromas of cherry pie just
out of the oven, baking spice, and potpourri. The palate is long and elegant, featuring waves of dark cherries
and magic spice with well-mannered dusty tannins and perfectly matched acidity. Spectacular the next day
from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. A very classy wine that speaks of low yields and old vine fruit
and is a more than worthy successor to the wonderful 2008 vintage bottling of this wine. Available to winery
wine club members at www.whiterosewines.com.
2011 Oregon Pinot Noir All-Americans Second Team
2008 Amalie Robert Estate Select Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., $50. Moderate reddish-purple
hue in the glass. Subdued but pleasant aromas of mixed berries and black cherries with a violet note. Silky
and earth-driven flavors of darker red berries and subtle baking spice, wrapped in supple tannins, with oak
playing a complimentary role in the background. A classy wine with very impressive length on the aromatic
finish. The most cellaring potential of the 2008 Amalie Robert Pinot Noirs and the one with the most Pinot
charm. Available through the winery’s website at www.amalierobert.com.
2008 Argyle Nuthouse Reserve Series Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 14.0% alc., 3,200
cases, $42. The nose is reserved, offering delicate aromas of dark stone fruits and berries with complimentary
oak. Vivid and intense red and black berry compote on the palate including a striking attack of black raspberry
fruit on entry that lingers on the finish. Well-rounded, smoothly textured, with a lively acid underbelly. More
approachable than the 2008 Argyle Reserve, but this wine will also benefit from cellaring. Do not overlook this
well-priced beauty from a great vintage. Available through the winery’s website at www.argylewinery.com and
select retail stores.
2009 Bergström Shea Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., $46.
Moderately intense reddish-purple color in the glass. Complex perfume exhibiting scents of purple fruits, spice,
cigar box and toast. A medium weight, tasty wine that offers layers of flavor including fresh plums, blackberries
and Hoison sauce. The wine flows smoothly over the palate and lingers on the finish for what seems like 60
seconds. The wine displays hearty tannins now, but they are well balanced by the fruit and acidity. Shea
Vineyard performed beautifully in this vintage and Bergström showcased this iconic fruit source beautifully. This
wine will have many fans. Available through fine wine retail stores (the 2010 vintage is now offered at the
winery at www.bergstromwines.com).
2008 Daedalus Cellars Maresh Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 12.4% alc., 24 cases,
$60. Lighter redder-toned color in the glass. Intense aromas of dark red cherries and berries with oak in the
background. Impressive mid palate flavors of ripe red cherries and berries with complimentary oak spice and
toast. Seamless, sophisticated and classy with a capital C. Very light on its feet and elegant in style. Will be
better over time as the oak integrates, but hard to resist now. Nothing like Pinot Noir from old vine fruit.
Available from the winery at www.daedaluscellars.com.
2009 De Ponte Cellars Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 1,881 cases, $38. Full-on
perfume of fresh boysenberries, potpourri, incense and Moroccan spices. Lip smacking black cherry and
boysenberry essence with subtle oak, musk and spice undertones. Everything you want in a Pinot Noir:
mouthwatering attack, bright acidity, ripe tannins, a lingering finish and impeccable balance. A stylish and
sensual pleasure. Available through the winery’s website at www.depontecellars.com.
2009 Et Fille Maresh Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., 103 cases, $42.
Moderately light reddish-purple hue in the glass. Demure, but pleasing perfume of red and black berries, with
hints of smoky oak and tobacco. A young, but sophisticated wine, with a stunning array of black cherry, red
currant and red plum flavors robed in chewy tannins. The pedigree of the fruit is obvious. A powerhouse that
is impenetrable now, still showing some unintegrated oak, and not ready for prime time. Like a new pair of
Christian Louboutin shoes: able to attract plenty of attention. Available through the winery at www.etfille.com.
2008 Lange Estate Vineyards & Winery Freedom Hill Vineyard 13.5% alc., 250 cases, $60. Tasted in
August 2010 and re-tasted recently in late 2011. Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Welcoming
aromas of black plums, dark cherries, cassis, forest floor and damp earth. Soil-inflected core of intensely
flavored black plum fruit that is beginning to shed its baby fat. Since last tasted the tannins have become
softer, the oak has faded into the background, and the wine is exhibiting an amazingly long finish that has a
bright cut of acidity. The wine has the balance for long-term aging. Put on your big boy pants when you open
this one. Available only through the secondary marketplace. The winery is currently offering the 2009 version
2008 Ponzi Vineyards Aurora Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 50 cases, $100.
Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Demure scents of dark red fruits, polished woods and brioche.
Intense and mouth coating flavors of dark red cherries and raspberries, with a citrus note in the background.
The massive fruit is largely buried in substantial tannins and the wine is not offering the whole package at this
time. Much better two days later from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. A little more showy than the
companion Abetina Vineyard bottling. Cellar for at least 3 to 5 years and then open the wine on a special
occasion. Available only through the secondary marketplace; sold out at the winery.
2008 ROCO Private Stash Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., $75. Moderately light reddish-purple
hue in the glass. The nose is closed for business initially, opening up over time in the glass to reveal hi-tone
aromas of red Pinot fruits and spice box. Pleasing middle weight dark red cherry and berry flavors with a hint
of candied spice and Red Vines. The taste profile is more typical of Pinot Noir from the Dundee Hills. A classy
wine with admirable elegance that is very smooth in the mouth and literally grows on you over time. Will
benefit from decanting. Available from the winery at www.rocowinery.com.
2009 Roots Estate Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.9% alc., $29.
Moderately light in color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with intense aromas of fresh cherry tart, pie spice and
cardamom. The wine sports a delicious core of cherries set off by underpinnings of sassafras, baking spice
and vanilla. Light, elegant and silky on the palate, with supple fine-grain tannins, and a refreshingly tart finish
offering a hint of orange peel. Interesting interplay between the slightly grainy tannins and fresh fruit. This is
far from a blockbuster, but hits all the right notes and offers immense pleasure. Still solid the next day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle. Available from the winery at www.rootswine.com and through limited
retail channels such as www.winex.com and www.northwest-wine.com.
2009 White Rose Estate Whole Cluster White Rose Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., 124 cases, $90. Moderately light reddish-purple hue in the glass. This wine really grabs your
attention with a festival of ripe and forward aromas and flavors including dark pie cherries and magic spice.
Upon entry, the wine jolts your taste buds to action, offering substantial pleasure while displaying a seductive
charm that carries over to the long and silky, cherry-soaked finish. Still mildly reserved, this marvelous juice
should improve effortlessly over the next three to five years, and drink well for another five to ten years beyond
that. Pick any superlatives you wish; my choice is “libidinous.” Available to wine club members at
2011 Oregon Pinot Noir All-Americans Honorable Mention
2008 Alexana Dundee Hills Willamette Valley
2008 Anam Cara Heather’s Vineyard Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley
2005 Cristom Eileen Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley
2008 Et Fille Nicholas Vineyard Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley
2009 J. Christopher Dundee Hills Willamette Valley
2008 Laura Volkman Rachel Estate Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley
2009 Laura Volkman Jacob Estate Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley
2008 La Velle Matthew’s Reserve Willamette Valley
2008 Lenné Estate Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley
2002 Ponzi Vineyards Reserve Willamette Valley
2009 Privé Le Nord Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley
2009 Shea Wine Cellars Estate Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley
2009 Soter Mineral Springs Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley
The chart above indicates that 47% of the wines were priced between $36 and $49 and 53% of the wines were
priced between $50 and $100. Similar trend as for California Pinot Noir with 5% more Oregon wines priced
less than $49. The $50-$59 range seems to be a relative dead zone for winery pricing for California and
Oregon Pinot Noir, with the majority of wineries either choosing to price their wines less than $50 or above $60.
There must be a marketing lesson in there somewhere but I am not sure what it is.
2011 Oregon Value Priced Pinot Noir All-Americans
Wines that received both my highest accolade (Pinot Geek icon) and were $35 or less (Value icon) are
indicated by • and listed first.
• 2008 Argyle Reserve Willamette Valley $30
• 2008 Et Fille Nicholas Vineyard $34
• 2009 Luminous Hills Estate Grown Yamhill-Carlton District Astra $35
• 2009 The Eyrie Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley $35
2009 Evesham Wood Willamette Valley $18
2008 Cooper Mountain Vineyards Reserve Willamette Valley $24
2010 Soter Vineyards North Valley Rosé Willamette Valley $24
2008 Tyee Cellars Winemaker Select Willamette Valley $24
2009 White Rose Estate Willamette Valley $24
2009 Anne Amie Cuvée A Willamette Valley $25
2009 J. Christopher Willamette Valley $25
2009 Laura Volkman St. James Willamette Valley $25
2009 Longplay Jory Bench Reserve Lia’s Vineyard Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley $25
2008 Montage Vineyards The Etzel Vineyard Ribbon Ridge Willamette Valley $25
2008 Daedalus Cellars Willamette Valley $25
2009 Westrey Oracle Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley $26
2009 Roots Wines & Vineyard Apolloni Vineyard Washington County $29
2008 Amalie Robert Vintage Debut Estate Willamette Valley $30
2008 Anam Cara Nicholas Estate Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley $30
2008 Belle Pente Murto Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley $30
2009 Cristom Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Willamette Valley $30
2008 ROCO Willamette Valley $30
2008 CAW Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley $35
2008 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley $35
2011 Chardonnay All-Americans
2008 Amalie Robert Heirloom Cameo Oregon
2008 Bjørnstad Ritchie Vineyard Russian River Valley
2010 Briceland Vineyards Lolonis Vineyard Mendocino County
2009 Chanin Wine Co. Los Alamos Vineyard Santa Barbara County
2009 Freestone Pastorale Vineyard Sonoma Coast
2009 Hirsch Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast
2009 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands
2005 Littorai Theirot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2007 Mount Eden Estate Santa Cruz Mountains
2007 Rhys Vineyards Alpine Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains
2007 Suacci-Carciere Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast
2011 Value Priced Chardonnay All-Americans
• 2010 Briceland Vineyards Lolonis Vineyard Mendocino County $21
• 2008 Bjørnstad Barbed Oak Vineyard Bennett Valley $30
• 2008 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands $35
2010 Laetitia Estate Arroyo Grande $18
2009 Mahoney Vineyards Gavin Vineyard Carneros $18
2008 Bjønstad Cellars Sonoma County $25
2009 Hahn Estate SLH Santa Lucia Highlands $25
2009 Bonneau Catherine’s Vineyard Los Carneros $28
2009 Thomas George Estates Russian River Valley $34
2009 Fogdog Sonoma Coast $35
American Pinot Noir Awards for 2011
Justin Bieber Award: Promising Newcomers and/or New Discoveries
The following wineries made an impression on me in 2011 as either relative newcomers whose recent vintages
were very solid or even outstanding, or as wineries whose wines I sampled for the first time and was suitably
impressed. Despite the marked increase in the number of Pinot Noir producers post-Sideways (2004), there
are still new hounds eagerly entering the Pinot race. There are some newbies that are producing Pinot Noir
that is of borderline acceptability and charging way too much, but all these wineries are worthy of your
Alexana Winery (Willamette Valley)
Alysian Wines (Russian River Valley)
Anaba Wines (Sonoma)
Amalie Robert Estate (Willamette Valley)
Balo Vineyards (Anderson Valley)
Bailiwick Wines (San Francisco Bay)
Bedrock Wine Co (Sonoma Valley)
Big Table Farm (Willamette Valley)
Bonneau Wines & Vineyard (Sonoma Carneros)
Briceland Vineyards (Humboldt County)
Bruliam Wines (Healdsburg)
Burn Cottage (New Zealand)
Campesino Cellars (Carneros)
Cartha (Sonoma Valley)
Castello di Amorosa (Napa Valley)
CAW (Willamette Valley)
Chanin Wine Co (Santa Maria Valley)
Coelho Winery (Willamette Valley)
Couloir Wines (Napa Valley)
Frank Family (Napa Valley)
Furthermore Wines (San Francisco)
Gracianna (Russian River Valley)
Gray Stack Cellars (Bennett Valley)
Gros Ventre Cellars (Sierra Foothills)
Haden Fig (Willamette Valley)
Hilliard Bruce Vineyards (Sta. Rita Hills)
John Tyler Wines (Bacigalupi Vineyards, Russian River Valley)
Kent Rasmussen (Carneros)
La Follette Wines (Russian River Valley)
Lula Cellars (Mendocino)
Masut Vineyard & Winery (Mendocino)
Neely (Santa Cruz Mountains)
Odonata Wines (Santa Cruz Mountains)
Presqu’ile (Santa Maria Valley)
Roots Vineyard & Winery (Willamette Valley)
Samsara (Sta. Rita Hills)
Sonría (Napa Valley)
Thomas George Estate (Russian River Valley)
Tyee Wine Cellars (Willamette Valley)
Wind Gap Wines (Russian River Valley)
Winderlea (Willamette Valley)
Wren Hop Vineyards (Sonoma)
Zotovich Cellars (Sta. Rita Hills)
John Steinbeck Award: Best Winery Newsletter
Newsletters in print form are a vanishing breed. I still love to receive them though, and eagerly read every
word. The Navarro Vineyards Newsletter can hardly be considered a newsletter as it consists of ten or so
pages in a booklet format packed with useful information and color photographs. The Navarro newsletter has
been published longer than any of the others listed here and is a masterpiece of marketing know how.
Pisoni (great annual calendar as well)
A special mention should go to a retailer newsletter: Stock Report from the Wine Exchange (www.winex.com)
in Orange, California. This monthly 50 to 60 page newsletter is packed with wine reviews that are carefully
written by the owner who has an experienced palate and a way with words. The reviews appear in the writer’s
own handwriting which makes them even more appealing. As with all retailers, there is an emphasis on
scores, but look beyond this for the true story on the wines. This retailer carries one of the most extensive
stocks of California and Oregon Pinot Noir in the country and the prices are competitive with anyone hawking
wine in this country.
Mark Zuckerberg Award: Best Winery Website
I visit multiple winery websites daily and honestly, the majority of them suck. It is unfortunate, for the quality of
a winery’s website directly reflects the owners, winemakers and the wines themselves. I can’t tell you how
many times I have reviewed a wine that impressed me, decided to write about, only to find little useful
information communicated on the poorly designed website. Often simple information like owners of the winery,
e-mail contacts for the owners or winemaker, useful tech information, and label images is missing. The result
is that I spend considerable time searching the internet and making phone calls to try to track down critical
facts. The websites below are exemplary. Any wineries needing help? Contact Wendy Coy at
email@example.com or my son, Dane Gaffney, at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Big Table Farm
Calera Wine Company
Clos Pepe Vineyards
Loring Wine Company
Winderlea Vineyard & Winery
Wren Hop Vineyards
Vincent van Gogh Award: Best Label
There is no question that wine labels sell wine and are the most important piece of
communication between the winery and the consumer. Sexy labels often drive sales. Paula
Sugarman wrote (www.winelabelsthatwork.com), “Labels with scantily clad or naked women
are popular....to both genders because they both find wine and beauty an appealing
combination. Both men and women like the Marilyn Monroe wine labels. Keep it sexy, keep it
simple, or dress it up, but stick with the classics.” I haven’t seen many scantily clad women on
Pinot Noir labels recently, except for the PinUp Series of wines by De La Montanya Winery in
Healdsburg (right) and the three labels pictured below (one of which is Sauvignon Blanc), but
the Pinot Noir labels for the Van Gogh Award are my favorites.
Red Car Wine Co.
The Eyrie Vineyards
Joseph Swan Vineyards
Books That Go Well With Pinot Noir
In Search of Pinot Noir
Benjamin Lewin MW, Vendage Press, 2011, hardcover, 424 pp, $45 ($29.60
The title is misleading as this book is a homage to Burgundy. Lewin notes, “Burgundy makes Burgundy. All the
rest make (merely) Pinot Noir.” Further, he states, “Burgundy has the pinnacle all to itself for Pinot Noir.” He
establishes this premise early on in the book and then begins to prove his case with extensive historical
material on the origins of Pinot Noir and the history of Burgundy, a very enlightening discussion of the
significance of the region’s terroir, and lengthy tasting notes of exemplary Burgundian Pinot Noirs
including recommended drinking windows. He then takes the reader on a trip to other French Pinot Noir
producing areas including Sancerre, Champagne and the Languedoc, European Pinot Noir regions such as
Germany, Italy, and Switzerland, California and Oregon, and New Zealand and Australia in the southern
The New World versus Burgundy is a tired argument and the argument as presented in the book is agonizing
long. Lewin states his case at several points in the book. He notes at one juncture, “The transparency of Pinot
Noir can show subtleties of terroir as effectively in the New World as in the Old. Two factors stand in the way
of a full appreciation of terroir in the New World....the vines are young....and the style of full frontal fruits isn’t
best suited to reveal subtlety of terroir.” I believe he is remiss in acknowledging the Pinot Noirs from Pisoni
Vineyard or Rochioli Vineyard where the exuberance of the fruit IS a reflection of the terroir.
The coverage of North American Pinot Noir is woefully lacking with an emphasis only on Santa Barbara County
and the Russian River Valley. Santa Cruz Mountains receives but two paragraphs, and the much heralded
Pinot Noirs from the extreme Sonoma Coast (except for a cursory mention of Hirsch Vineyard), Anderson
Valley, and Sta. Rita Hills are largely ignored.
There are a few inaccuracies along the way. Although David Lett is correctly given credit for launching the
modern Oregon wine industry, his first plantings in the Willamette Valley were in 1965 and not 1967 as is stated
in the book. Charles Coury is given credit for writing a thesis that suggested that Oregon should plant Pinot
Noir, but no such information is contained in Coury’s graduate thesis which was titled, “Wine Grape Adaptation
in the Napa Valley.” Lewin attributes the University of California at Davis for advising Joe Rochioli, Jr., to plant
grapevines in the Russian River Valley in the 1960s, when grapevines had been growing on the property Joe
Rochioli, Jr., acquired for many years prior, and it was Joe’s idea to plant Pinot Noir.
I found it humorous that Lewin frowns on the limited availability of top single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from Oregon
and California, saying, “The near universality of the model (allocation) means that unless you are in the magic
circle of aficionados, you may never experience the range of single vineyard wines.” Later in the book he touts
the wines of DRC and Leroy, yet they are far more expensive and allocated, and even less rarely experienced
by the American wine enthusiast.
The book concludes with a description of a tasting to compare aging of top wines from different regions by
identifying wines with the same apparent maturity as Burgundy 1995. The author concluded from the tasting
that Pinot Noir from a variety of climates and terroirs can produce interesting results with age, but considered
many wines in the tasting to be only at the village wine level of Burgundy.
I plan to read this book many times for there is plenty to learn here. Pinot Noir lovers at all levels will be
captivated by the detail contained within, and thoroughly enlightened by the extensive charts, maps and photos
included, whether are not they are devotees of New World Pinot Noir, Old World Pinot Noir, or hopefully, both.
Grand Cru The Great Wines of Burgundy Through the Perspective of Its Finest Vineyards
Norman, Sterling Epicure, New York, 2011, hardcover, 235 pp, $35.
When I first traveled to Burgundy, I bought Remington Norman’s book that explores the greatest producers of
Burgundy, The Great Domaines of Burgundy, in Beaune, and carried it with me everywhere I went. The last
edition of that book was published in 1996, but it remains a valuable reference. It was therefore not surprising
that I looked eagerly to reading Norman’s latest book and I was not disappointed.
Grand Cru assumes a different tact, concentrating on vineyards rather than producers with extensive profiles of
all the Grand Cru Vineyards in Burgundy and the Premier Cru Vineyards that come closest to and are possibly
deserving of Grand Cru status. Although, as Norman points out, Burgundy’s Grand Cru vineyards (white and
red) amount to just over 1% of the total vineyard area and less than 1% of the wine production of Burgundy,
they remain a source of unparalleled interest to Burgundy lovers.
Although Grand Cru Vineyards are the meat of the book, there is much more, including extensive coverage of
the Côte d’Or in the context of history, the importance of terroir, the significance of vintages in Burgundy, how to
taste and buy Burgundy (or any great wine), pairing Burgundy with food, and the current state of Burgundian
grapes in the New World. What you won’t find in this book are extensive tasting notes and specific wine
You will find many valuable bits of information and quotes to hang your Pinot cap on. For example, Norman
waxes about La Tâche, saying, “The real impact of a great Côte d’Or Grand Cru is as emotional as it is
sensorial so one can only hint at the magic and encourage people to pool resources and share a bottle.” In
discussing wine tasting, he says, “A useful tip with tasting young wine is to smell the glass that has been empty
for a minute or so; this offers an artificial glimpse of how it might develop in the bottle.” When discussing wine
quality, he muses, “The greater the wine, in general the more difficult it is to taste young and the slower its
progress toward maturity.
The book is replete with glorious photographs of Burgundy as well as color aerial photographs of the vineyards
described. A helpful appendix clarifies the various measures of wine-related capacity, yield, and area in several
This is an incredible work that took considerable dedication over many years to bring to print. I would consider
it required reading for even the most mildly afflicted pinotphile. My only nit is a little repetitiveness in parts, but
this can easily be forgiven by the author’s profuse love for Burgundy expressed so eloquently in this
Voodoo Vintners Oregon’s Astonishing Biodynamic Winegrowers
Katherine Cole, Oregon State
University Press, Corvallis, 2011, Paperback, 182 pp, $18.95.
There are few subjects in viticulture more controversial than biodynamic (BD) farming. The word “voodoo”
crops up at various junctures in this book, a term implying a mystical or spiritual basis for this practice. When
this book was first released, I mentioned the title to Ted Lemon (California’s Littorai winery), a staunch believer
in BD, and he cringed. To emphasize the conflicting opinions about BD, a number of viticulturists would not go
on record with statements about BD in this book.
There hasn’t been much scientific research on BD, and the author points out that a few studies have even
found BD agriculture to have no measurable effect on soil health and little evidence that the preps contribute to
grape quality. Practitioners of this ultimate form of sustainable farming must take a leap of faith.
The author presents a generally supportive view of this practice as told through vignettes of prominent Oregon
winegrowers including Moe Momtazi (Maysara), Robert Gross (Cooper Mountain Vineyards), Laurent Montalieu (Soléna and Grand Cru Estates), Don Huggett (Montinore Estate, Brian O’Donnell (Belle Pente), and
Mike Etzel (Beaux Frères) among others. At the time the book was written there were 909 vineyard acres in
Oregon, or 5% of the total vineyard land, certified Biodynamic® (the word is trademarked and to be used only
by Demeter-Certified wineries to market or label wines, but can be used in a broader sense without the
trademark to describe BD farming techniques). 365 acres are non-certified Biodynamic® bringing the total in
Oregon to 6.5% of the total vineyard land. A master list of natural and biodynamic wine producers in the world
(currently 529) is available at www.forkandbottle.com/wine/biodynamic_producers.htm. At the recent organic
and biodynamic debate held in the UK, Monty Waldin noted that over 5% of the world’s vineyards are now
organic and biodynamic.
There are few sources of information about BD (“There are no Cliffs Notes,” the author points out), so Cole has
done an admirable job filling this void by collecting all the important current knowledge about BDs origins (from
the agricultural lectures of Rudolph Steiner dating to 1924), its practice (compost piles, cover crops, irrigation
limitations, buffer zones, integration of livestock, minimal sulfur and copper usage), important BD organizations
(the headquarters for Demeter USA and the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association is based in
Oregon), and certification requirements. Viewpoints from both BD’s practitioners and naysayers are offered,
with limited discussion given to the latter group because, other than Richard Smart, there are few outspoken
prominent opponents to BD.
The author is not a scientist or even a viticulturist, but a wine columnist for The Oregonian and Portland’s
magazine about food and drink called MIX. This is a good thing, for she does not attempt to present a treatise
on BD, but chooses to offer a highly readable story centered on Oregon winegrowers sprinkled intermittently
with useful and accurate information on BD. I am not sure the BD winegrowers are “astonishing” as
the title would suggest, but they are certainly fascinating.
To Burgundy & Back Again A Tale of Wine, France & Brotherhood
Roy Cloud, Lyons Press,
Guilford, Connecticut, 2011, paperback, 215 pp, $16.95.
Roy Cloud had worked in the wine business in the United States for years, but in 1997 he was confronted with
an unusual assignment. The United States import market was heating up and he was asked to quickly acquire
a portfolio of vignerons for a new wine importing company. Nothing unusual about that except that Cloud
spoke no French, had never been to Burgundy and had no contacts there, and possessed little experience in
importing and distributing fine wine. He did have an older brother, Joe, who spoke French and was available to
join him, and the two of them embarked on a twelve day whirlwind life-changing tour of Burgundy.
As wine novices, the pair’s escapades in the cellars of Burgundy are humorous. Not all the domaines that are
visited are named, but those familiar with Burgundy can surmise which ones were visited. The tour also
includes brief stops outside Burgundy including Sancerre, Alsace, and the Rhone, where at Château de St.
Cosme, Joe is trying to be diplomatic to the proprietor and winemaker, Louis Barruol, after being taken aback
by a big wine that was offered for tasting. Challenged by the winemaker to describe the wine, Joe uses the
term “expressive” to downplay the richness of the wine. The winemaker responds, “Anyone can make a fat
wine. That’s easy! But what is fat wine without freshness, without definition? He stuck his butt out and went
ttthhhiiiiiiiiddd with his tongue. Just a fart in the wind. And there is a lot of farting out there. Too much farting.
Don’t you agree?”
As you can imagine, the tour turned out to be quite an adventure and a bonding experience for the brothers.
Cloud writes, “We raced all over the Cote d’Or in a hallucinogenic haze induced by lack of sleep, alcohol, and
anxiety at having to perform in front of strangers.” He recants, “We were starting from scratch. We had no
reference, no track record, nothing. What I was doing was ridiculous, a fool’s errand.”
Roy Cloud is an engaging writer who holds an MA in writing from New York University. He eventually bought
the importing company that first sent him to France and renamed it Vintage ’59 Imports, reflecting a famous
vintage in France as well as Cloud’s birth year. The company is based in Washington, D.C. and specializes in
artisanal French wines.
Joe Mesics, Illustrated by Jamie Shulander, Cameron & Company, 2011, paperback, 63 pp, $14.95.
I devoured this book over a few hours as it contains a series of short essays in a column titled “Vit Lit” that the
author wrote for The Healdsburg Tribune under the pseudonym F.l Gangbardt between 2008 and 2009. Mesics
was a devoted winegrower who started a vineyard in Rickerall, Oregon in the 1960s after a career in the
magazine publishing industry. He later moved to the Russian River Valley, and at age 55 planted Timbervine
Ranch Vineyard on the flanks of Black Mountain. The vineyard consisted of several acres of Zinfandel. He
lived nearby on a ranch on Westside Road called Por Que Ranch where he produced wine from a tiny winery
known as Itty Bitty Cellar at Por Que Ranch.
The essays cover subjects ranging from field laborers to hardware stores to terroir, and contain plenty of
insider jokes that only those who have lived or spent considerable time in the Russian River Valley will
understand since the people that are described are not named. In spite of that, all winos will enjoy the read since he writes from the heart about what farming grapes is really like and how winegrowing has changed
since he began in the 1960s.
Mesics has a special hatred for weekend farmers, rich retirees who “bought into the romance of viticulture,” as
he puts it. He wrote, “Some days bad things happen at the mountaintop. Pumps clog, motors overheat,
batteries fail....hornets attack workers, and winemakers demand more attention be paid to leaf pulling or
dropping a crop. Unless you experience such surprises, you’re not really experiencing the Romance of
I found myself laughing out loud at several junctures of the book. Tragically, Mesics passed away before his
book was published. This is not a book that will receive wide recognition or press, but it is honest writing that
truly conveys one man’s love for viticulture. As Mesics put it, “I’ve never met a grapevine I haven’t liked.” I can
just imagine his weathered skin and gnarled hands, and regret that I never met the man.
The Wine Seeker’s Guide to Livermore Valley
Thomas C. Wilmer, RiverWood Books, Ashland,
Oregon, 2010, paperback, 236 pp, $18.95.
This is the first published comprehensive guide to this under-appreciated California wine region which has
been quietly been producing wine for more than 125 years. 15 miles long and 10 miles wide, the Livermore
AVA was approved in 1982. Because of east-west oriented mountains that flank the valley, the climate is
coastal, with marine air and fog intruding from San Francisco Bay.
The history of the region is documented in this handy guide and includes a forward by Phil Wente and James
Concannon. The Wente family brought Chardonnay clones to the region from France in 1912 and today more
than 80% of Chardonnay plantings in California are some variation of the Wente clone. The first varietally-labeled
Sauvignon Blanc and Petite Sirah came from Livermore Valley.
Pinot Noir plantings are sparse and Pinot Noir has been a minor variety for nearly all producers in the region
except La Rochelle Winery which sources Pinot Noir from several AVAs in California and Oregon. The
signature varietals of Livermore Valley are Petite Sirah, Syrah, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay. This tour guide is not a serious wine reference and
does not include wine reviews or judgments about the quality of the wines from the wineries, but insightful
vignettes of each winery are presented. I discovered that a number of wineries beside La Rochelle do produce
Pinot Noir from sourced grapes including Charles R Vineyards, Crooked Vine & Stony Ridge Wineries, Darcie
Kent Vineyards, Elliston Vineyards, Fenestra, Page Mill Winery, Rodrique Molyneaux, Wente Vineyards,
Westover Vineyards, and White Crane.
This is a useful book to throw in the glove compartment of your car as you tour the region. Maps, lodging,
restaurants and things to do and see in the Livermore Valley are presented in detail. A mobile version of the
guide would be even more helpful.
The Cakebread Cellars American Harvest Cookbook Celebrating Wine, Food, and Friends
in the Napa Valley
Jack and Dolores Cakebread and Brian Streeter (Culinary Director of Cakebread Cellars)
with Janet Fletcher, Ten Speed Press, 2011, hardcover, 190 pp, $35
This book features recipes from the American Harvest Workshop hosted by the Cakebreads each September
during harvest season. The release of this cookbook in 2011 coincides with the 25th anniversary of this event
which is held over four days at River Ranch Vineyard in the Napa Valley. Five chefs from the United States are
invited each year and attendees include a mix of trade people, journalists, and the public. 100 seasonal recipes
are included by such famous chefs as Gary Danko, Herbert Keller and Charlie Trotter. The recipes focus on
local (“locavore”) sources of food and therefore California cuisine, and a number of them have been
streamlined for home cooks.
Scattered throughout the book are informative profiles of the winery’s purveyors such as Devil’s Gulch Ranch
rabbit and Liberty duck, and the book’s appendix includes sources for difficult to find ingredients. The book is
intended to be a working cookbook rather than a glamorous picture book, with color photographs included
primarily for guidance. I tried a few of the recipes successfully, including Fennel-Brined Pork Chops with
Quince Chutney and Slow-Roasted King Salmon with Garden Herbs, both of which clicked beautifully with
Pinot Noir from my cellar. This is a user-friendly and wine-friendly cookbook that includes a number of recipes
using wine in the preparation.
In addition to the newer books reviewed above on Pinot Noir, I have compiled a list of previously published
books to stock your library below. A few of these, such as North American Pinot Noir, are available in e-book
The Complete Pinotphile’s Library
North American Pinot Noir, John Winthrop Haeger
Pacific Pinot Noir A Comprehensive Winery Guide for Consumer and Connoisseur, John Winthrop Haeger
Passion for Pinot, photography by Andrea Johnson & Robert Holmes, text by Gordon MacKay
Essential Wines and Wineries of the Pacific Northwest, Cole Danehower, photography by Andrea Johnson
A Wine Journey Along the Russian River, Steve Heimoff
Santa Barbara County Wineries, Janet Penn Franks
The Heartbreak Grape, Marq De Villiers
The Grail A year ambling & shambling through an Oregon vineyard in pursuit of the best pinot noir wine in the
whole wide world, Brian Doyle
The Boys Up NorthDick Erath and the early Oregon winemakers, Paul Pintarich
Vineyard Memoirs or “So this is what it’s like to plant a vineyard?”, Oregon Wine Pioneer Recollections of
Living, Grape-Growing and Winemaking in the 1970s, Kerry McDaniel Boenisch
Sideways and Vertical, Rex Pickett
The Great Domaines of Burgundy, Remington Norman
The Wines of Burgundy, Clive Coats, MW
Inside Burgundy, Jasper Morris
Adventures in Burgundy, photography by Lincoln Russell
The Pearl of the Cote: The Great Wines of Vosne-Romanée, Allen Meadows
Romanée-Conti, Richard Olney
The Science of Wine, Jamie Goode
The Taste of Wine, Emile Peynaud
The Prince, A Scrooge?
Bah,Humbug! to sweeping pronouncements about vintages, regions, etc. At this year’s Wine Spectator New
York Wine Experience, contributing editor Matt Kramer hosted a session on Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. He
called the extreme Sonoma Coast the source of “the most profound Pinot Noirs grown in America today.” I do
love many of the Pinot Noirs originating in the true or extreme Sonoma Coast, but to make such a statement
belittles the incredible Pinot Noirs produced by Calera Wine Company at Mt. Harlan, by Hanzell Vineyards on
Sonoma Mountain, and by Mount Eden and Rhys Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains, to name a few.
Bah, Humbug! to heavy glass bottles. Wine writers hate them (ie Dan Berger, Paul Gregutt), sommeliers
despise them, and I dislike them. They don’t fit into my home Vinoteque wine cabinet and they are unwieldy to
pour from. Lifting cases of heavy bottles can lead to serious back problems (a case of heavy bottles weights
about 43 pounds) and cases of heavy bottles are more expensive to ship. Glass represents anywhere from 50
to 73 percent of a winery’s carbon footprint and switching to lighter weight bottles can greatly reduce the
carbon footprint and save wineries money. I assume their popularity among wineries is loosely based on the
perception that consumers will consider the wine contained therein of higher quality and worth the often higher
prices. I don’t think wine reviewers are impressed or influenced by the massive bottles and huge punts.
Bah, Humbug! to wax closures. I would be the first to acknowledge that wax closures are pleasing to the eye
and give the wine packaging a desirable flare and sophistication, if not expensive aesthetic. That said, they are
a pain in the touche to deal with. After driving a worm through the wax to open the bottle, the wax invariably
fragments, sending pieces everywhere including into the wine when the cork is finally liberated.
Bah, Humbug! to alcohol percentages on labels so tiny that they defy readability except for those young
people gifted with 20/15 vision. The TTB requires that alcohol content appear on the label no smaller than 1
millimeter and no larger than 3 millimeters. Many vintners choose to put the alcohol content in 1mm black print
on a very darkly color label, essentially hiding it, and making deciphering a challenge. I urge wineriers to put
the alcohol percentage somewhere on the front or back label in a size and with enough contrast to be easily
read. While your at it, can you please put the “honest” alcohol level on the bottle?
Bah, Humbug! to over-oaked Pinot Noir. It is true that no one is certain what Pinot Noir is supposed to taste
like, but I seriously doubt that oak is high on the list. Kudos to the many vintners who are favoring less new
oak or eliminating new oak completely.
Bah, Humbug! to wine collectors attempting to sell wines from their overstocked cellars at exorbitant prices.
Don’t pay absurd prices on the secondary market for so-called cult Pinot Noirs! They just aren’t worth it. I
recently bought some Pinot Noirs from a serious wine collector in Southern California who needs to thin his
cellar. Admirably, he is selling the wines at his cost. Some of the producers available reads like a who’s who
in the PinotFile: A.P. Vin, Arcadian, Arista, Benovia, Clos Pepe, Domaine Drouhin Oregon, DuMOL, Kanzler,
Kosta Browne, Kutch, Littorai, Loring, MacPhail, Native 9, Peay, Penner-Ash, Privé, Radio-Coteau, Rhys
Vineyards, Rivers-Marie, ROCO, Sea Smoke, Skewis, Stoller, WesMar and Williams Selyem. The wines have
been properly cellared after their acquisition directly from the wineries. To obtain the list of wines for sale
Bah, Humbug! to the explosion of scores of American Pinot Noir at or above 90 out of 100 points, the result of
so-called “creeping grade inflation.” The blog, Fermentation, written by Tom Wark, recently noted that 78% of
the 2009 California Pinot Noirs rated by Robert Parker, Jr., were given a score of 90 points or better. Certainly
2009 was a great vintage for Pinot in California, but it isn’t realistic to think that so many wines deserved such
exalted scores. It seems to me that every winery I know has a Pinot Noir that has scored 90 or above by some
publication or competition. The recent tasting report by James Laube in the Wine Spectator was more realistic.
Even though Laube raved about the 2009 California Pinot Noirs (“09 is head and shoulders above any other
vintage in California Pinot Noir history”), 55% of the 350 wines tasted achieved a score of 90 or above which
was the best performance for this category ever. Writers have pointed out that this grade inflation decries the
100 point scoring system because so many wines are considered superior. All the more reason not to chase
high scoring wines but rather pursue a producer with a broad work of excellence.
Bah, Humbug! to those who are afraid to trust their own palate. If you like it, then it is a good wine. There is
no accounting for taste. As wine importer Neal Rosenthal has proclaimed, “Your taste is your own. Your
patrimony. You play with it as you play with your hands.” Wine critics can enhance and direct your wine
experience, but they cannot be your wine experience. There are very few really bad Pinot Noirs from reputable
sources on the market today. Be more concerned with differences than what is good or bad.
Bah, Humbug! to consumers who equate price with quality or quality with price. You know who you are. You
believe the best Pinot Noir costs the most and vice versa. It is true that you get what you pay for and many of
the best Pinot Noirs are expensive, but you may find you get equal enjoyment from any number of modestly
priced Pinot Noirs. As Alex Hunt has pointed out, we should seek the opposite tendency and equate
desirability with quality. My suggestion is to gather several wine drinking buddies, bag a dozen Pinot Noirs
priced from $18 to $100, and then taste and rate individual preferences blind. If you can’t bear to do it with
friends, do it by yourself with your dog by your side, because he will be oblivious to your embarrassment. A
study by Johan Almenberg and Anna Dreber in the Journal of Wine Economics (Vol. 6, No.1, pp 110-121, 2011)
designed an experiment to examine how knowledge about price of a wine affects how the wine is experienced.
They found that disclosing a high price before tasting the wine produced considerably higher ratings, but only
from women. Disclosing a low price did not result in lower ratings. I think the results would be different if the
people tested were experienced wine drinkers.
Bah, Humbug! to the excess of single-vineyard Pinot Noir bottlings. The truth is that blended wines can offer
more nuances and complexity, more consistency, and are often priced less than single vineyard Pinot Noirs.
This year’s number one wine among the Top 100 in the Wine Spectator is the 2009 Kosta Browne Sonoma
Coast Pinot Noir which is a blend of three vineyards. The fact is, many vineyards are not worthy of single-vineyard
designation. That said, single-vineyard Pinot Noirs can be the most stunning of all Pinot Noir wines
and all but three of my 2011 California and Oregon Pinot Noir All-Americans are single-vineyard designates.
Bah, Humbug! to label kissers. Don’t drink labels. As University of California at Davis Professor Dr. Maynard
Amerine has said, “It is not the year, the producer, or even the label that determines the quality of the wine; it is
the wine in the glass, whatever the label or producer or year.”
Bah, Humbug! to uninformative, lackluster winery websites. Wineries should disclose as much information
about themselves and their wines as possible on their website. Pinot geeks clamor for it and wine writers need
it. Provide copies of all wine labels; these visual images help the consumer to connect and assist the wine
press in spreading the winery’s image. Include an e-mail address for contacting the winemaker for questions.
Keep the information current.
*”Bah Humbug” wine glasses available from www.hourglassstudio.com.
No Sulfites in “Organic Wine” The United States National Organic Standards Board recently
passed a ruling that prohibits sulfites from being added to “organic wine.” A subcommittee had previously
advised to allow inclusion of sulfites in “organic wine.” “Biodynamic wines” are unaffected by the ruling and can
contain sulfites. The decision on “organic wines” falls in line with other foods that display the preservative-free
USDA organic seal.
Czar Foods Pinot Noir Sauces Jack and Stefan Czarnecki, chefs at the Joel Palmer House
Restaurant in the Willamette Valley, have released four new Pinot Noir sauces made from fruit from Resonance
Vineyard. The sauces include The Czar’s Pinot-Pepper Sauce, The Czar’s Pinot-Chipotle Sauce, The Czar’s
Pinot-Habanero Sauce, and The Czar’s Pinot Szechuan Sauce. Contact Michael Alberty at
www.StoretellerWine.com located in Portland, Oregon for more information and to buy ($7.95 a bottle).
Winemaking and Surgery I am a retired eye surgeon and the comparison of winemaking to surgery in
Dutton-Goldfield Winery’s latest newsletter caught my interest. Winemaker Dan Goldfield’s spouse is a
surgeon and Dan himself originally started out to be a doctor. He points out a few similarities and differences
between the two crafts. Why being a winemaker is like a surgeon: (1) The best craftspeople know when to
wait, or do nothing, (2) A clean and organized workplace gives a superior outcome, (3) Sometimes our
mistakes smell bad, (4) People who love to talk about their last 100 experiences with our professions bore us,
(5) One long night at a crucial time can avoid endless unsuccessful efforts later, (6) It’s about the customer, not
the provider, and (7) One person gets all the credit, though it takes many who care to do the work. Ways in
which winemaking is different: (1) Nobody dies when a winemaker screws up, (2) Winemakers don’t get paid if
they screw up, (3) Wine is a great barter product but few want to trade for surgery, (4) There are far more home
winemakers than home surgeons, and (5) Harvest only lasts a month or two. Dutton-Goldfield Winery is
located in Sebastopol and produces an outstanding range of wines including Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel,
Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. Visit the website at www.duttongoldfield.com.
Mobile App to Assist Wine Shoppers The Northern California retail chain of 124 supermarkets
known as Raley’s Family of Fine Stores is offering shoppers a free mobile app for iPhone and Android devices
that assists shoppers in choosing wine from the bewildering number of offerings in a market’s wine aisles.
Created by Hello Vino, Inc., the mobile app will direct shoppers to the proper wine from the supermarket’s
inventory that matches personal taste preferences, price point, and suitability for certain foods. For more
information, visit www.HelloVino.com.
Vancouver Microbiologist Aims at Making Wine Healthier The story of Hennie van
Vuuren’s research is profiled in Macleans.ca by Ken MacQueen (November 17, 2011). At the Wine Research
Center at the University of British Columbia, Vuuren has invested seven years of research to create a GMO
malolactic yeast (ML01) that eliminates the biomine allergens in finished wines that cause headaches. Vuuren
himself is a wine lover and suffers from wine-induced headaches. The commercially available yeast is
approved for use by Canadian and American authorities. Vuuren and his fellow researchers have also
developed a group of yeasts that almost eliminate ethyl carbamate, a suspected carcinogen found in trace
levels in wine, distilled alcoholic beverages, and bread. 80 wineries in the United States tried the yeast last
year and found no differences in quality between wines made with and without the new yeast. Vuuren is also
researching a yeast to reduce high levels of alcohol. Stay tuned. Visit www.macleans.ca/.
Study Suggests Beer as Good as Wine for Health Italian researchers reported in the
European Journal of Epidemiology that a moderate daily intake of beer (about a pint a day) cuts the risk of
heart disease by 31 percent. The researchers also found that beer was as good as wine for heart health. The
results are not surprising since a pint of beer and a glass of red wine contain about the same percentage of
alcohol, and most studies in this field have found alcohol to be the ingredient in both beverages most
responsible for reduction in heart disease. The authors caution that excessive beer or wine intake leads to a
loss of the advantage that moderate alcohol consumption confers, greatly increasing the risk of heart disease.
107-year-old Australian Woman Believes in Red Wine and Chocolate The Herald Sun
reported that a 107-year-old woman recently celebrated another birthday and attributes her longevity to red
wine, chocolate, fresh air, sunlight and a good cup of tea. No word about how much red wine she drinks, but it
is well known that moderate amounts of wine in the elderly can have multiple health benefits including the
preservation of cognitive function as well as promoting longevity.
Electronic Nose The Swiss government’s federal research station at Wädenswil has announced that
their electronic nose, termed SMart Nose, is, well, smart, and threatens to replace human noses that currently
do much of the work in the food industry. As reported at www.genevalunch.com (November 15, 2011), “In
theory, verifying the technical aspects of a fine bottle of Pinot Noir and quantifying these, as well as being able
to describe the nose, could be done by a machine.” At first glance this may threaten the livelihood of wine
writers, but the machine cannot give a subjective impression or a score, at least not yet.
More Clarification on Chalone Vineyard Clones In the last issue of the PinotFile, I wrote about
the presumed source of some clones planted at Calera, quoting John Haeger who said in North American Pinot
Noir, “There are persistent rumors that budwood brought at various times from France found a home at
Chalone. In some versions, the home was permanent and MacWood Vineyard is said to be planted to a
suitcase clone. In other versions, Chalone was only a way station for the imported budwood, which was
subsequently transported to other California vineyards. At this point, none of these stories can be confirmed
with certainty.” In the book, “Heartbreak Grape,” Marq De Villiers, who knew Josh Jensen intimately, states,
“Everyone cheerfully believes the rumors that Jensen’s Pinot Noir stock came directly from DRC itself,
bypassing Customs...Or, if not directly, via Chalone. Or possibly Chalone got its cuttings from Jensen, who got
them, somehow, from DRC....which he propagated on a patch of Chalone vineyard when he got to California.
Jensen’s “suitcase” clones have become legend in California and have subsequently mutated into the ‘Calera
clone’ in the minds of the state’s high-end pinot growers.” Dan Karlsen, the General Manager and Winemaker
at Talbott Vineyards, held the same position at Chalone from 1997 to 2006 contacted me recently to clarify. He
said Dick Graff’s brother told him that the Pinot Noir clone from Chalone was Martini, probably obtained from
Wente in the late 1940s. He believes there were no suitcase clones at Chalone. Karlsen was at Chalone
when the original 1946 plantings were pulled out and he supervised all the Pinot Noir replanting at Chalone
which is 100% Dijon clones. Karlsen points out that it is true that Chalone “harbored” some plant material for
various wineries through the years, but it was all in very small patches which were never sold, never expanded
into production blocks at Chalone, and now are long gone. His observation is that the Martini/Beaulieu/
Chalone clones are very similar plant material to that he has seen in Carneros, the Russian River Valley,
Chalone and the Santa Lucia Highlands. Where did this original material come from? Probably Burgundy and
was selected for higher vigor and crop production and its ability to make great wine in great sites.
At Home in Burgundy: The Papillon Recipes Eleanor Garvin is a
professional chef who has published a selection of over 100 of her most popular recipes
she collected while living in France for 25 years. She has worked with Papillon cruises
(along with her husband, Denis Sherman, they bought an antique barge “Le Papillon” in
1988 and began offering catered cruises of Burgundy’s canals) and other tours and
collaborated with Elden Wine. Her home is in Burgundy and the inventive recipes reflect
the abundance of indigenous ingredients available there and the author’s extensive
background in Burgundy’s culinary world. Early reviews on Amazon are 5-star. $19.95
(paperback). For additional information on estate bottled Burgundy wine visit
www.eldenwine.com, and news about upcoming cruises visit www.papillionselect.com.
Lompoc Wine Ghetto Website I recently discovered this website (www.lompocghetto.com) and can
recommend it to you for guidance in your tasting trips to the Sta. Rita Hills region. With the recent addition of
Arcadian, Joseph Blair Wines and Stolpman, there are now 16 tasting rooms in the Lompoc Wine Ghetto.
Evening Land Vineyards is moving its tasting room to a new, larger location. Notable Pinot Noir winery tasting
rooms besides Arcadian in the Ghetto include Ampelos Cellars, Fiddlehead Cellars, Flying Goat Cellars, La Vie
Vineyards, Longoria Wines, Loring Wine Company, Samsara and Zotovich Cellars. A number of articles in the
news about the Lompoc Wine Ghetto are posted on the website. One of the tasting room, Taste of Sta. Rita
Hills, which was created and is owned by Antonio Moretti of Moretti Wines, includes 11 wineries with prominent
Pinot Noir producers such as Brewer-Clifton, Clos Pepe, Gypsy Canyon, Huber, Ken Brown, Sea Smoke,
Seagrape and Thorne. This tasting room is open Thursday through Sunday 11:00-5:00 or by appointment.
Historic Vineyard Society (HVS) A group of winemakers and winegrowers have banded together to
start the Historic Vineyard Society to establish a registry and promote the historic vineyards of California. For
inclusion in the registry, the vineyard must be currently producing, date to 1960 or before, and have at least
one-third of existing producing vines traceable to the original planting date. The Society has cataloged 202
historic vineyards in California with most in Sonoma County (100 vineyards), but the registry is a work in
progress. Most of the existing historic vineyards, some of which are over 100 years old, are planted to
Zinfandel, but unfortunately, the registry listing on the website does not specify the varieties planted in each
Finally, A Good Laugh Chris Erskine writing in a recent edition of the Los Angeles Times, notes that his
wife worries that his lowbrow understanding of wines will one day get them evicted from California for not being
cool enough. In particular, he said, “She objects to me intentionally looking at wine lists upside down, then
sniffing to the waiter, ‘Never heard of any of these.’” Another humorous quote comes from Rafa Ibarra of
Mexico speaking about wine bloggers. “I don’t know in the USA, but here in Mexico we have a lot of wine
bloggers ass kissers that only want a free glass of wine and a picture with the winemaker of the moment, like a
rock star. We call them enorockstars and enogroupies. It’s sad, but it’s so true.”
Vintner’s Night Before Christmas 2011
The harvest was risky
There was little sun
Total production was
Down by a ton
The wine was all bundled
Up snug in French oak
Amid memories of cold soak
Who will now buy it?
And how will it be priced?
Will Parker anoint it?
Will the Prince be enticed?
Well, wait until morning
You’ve earned a respite
A cool glass of Pinot
And to all, a “Good Night”
Best Wishes, Happy Holidays, and Sweet Pinot Dreams