VOL 12, ISSUE 34
Dec 30, 2022
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J.L. Wolf
Pinot Noir has a long tradition in Germany. It was brought to Germany in about 1885. There are 75,000 acres planted in Germany, second only to Riesling, and Germany has the second largest planting of Pinot Noir in Europe behind France. In 1996, Ernst Loosen took over the J.L. Wolf estate so that he could make powerful, traditionally crafted Pfalz wines to complement the light and elegant Dr. Loosen Rieslings from the Mosel. The Pfalz region lies between the Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River, directly north of France’s Alsace region. As in Alsace, the mountains protect the area from harsh Atlantic weather, making it one of the warmer and drier area of Germany. All of the Burgundy grape varieties have a long tradition in the Pfalz region, which is known for its full-bodied and fruit-driven Pinot Noirs.
Reviewed Wines
2004 J.L. Wolf Alte Reben, Pfalz Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder)
This wine comes from a parcel
of old vines (“Alte Reben”) that was planted in 1968 with a mix of German clones. This parcel is
in a vineyard called Forster Musenhang, which was rated as a “second growth” in the 1828
vineyard classification done by the Bavarian government. The fruit was harvested at 13.0%
potential alcohol. Cold maceration was followed by traditional fermentation in 400-liter bins.
The wine was aged in 40% new French oak barriques for 16 months. Total production was 116
cases.
·
Mahogany-tinged color. Leafy, asparagus aromas. Light red fruit, with tangy acidity.
Reviewed March 23, 2008
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