Dec 30, 2022
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Dry River
| Owner(s) | Neil McCallum, Nick Nicholas, Reg Oliver, Julian Robertson |
| Web site | www.dryriver.co.nz |
| Link to this site |
Dry River was the name of one of the oldest Martinborough sheep stations in New Zealand, dating to 1877. It was later renamed Dyerville, and it was near here in 1979 that Neil and Dawn McCallum planted a vineyard. This area has come to be known as the Martinborough Terrace, a gravelly, free-draining area within the lowest rainfall zone in the North Island, located just across the Huangarua River from Te Muna. The Martinborough Terrace appellation has the lowest rainfall on the North Island, a cool-climate appropriate for growing Pinot Noir, and free-draining gravelly soils. There are now more than twenty-five labels originating from this special terroir. In 2002, the winery and 30 acres of vineyards were sold to New York businessman Julian Robertson and California winegrower Reg Oliver who owns El Molino Winery in St. Helena, California. The new owners have infused cash into the operation for expansion and updated equipment. Neil McCallum continues as Chief Winemaker with Katie Hammond assisting. Reg Oliver passed away in 2005 so I am not sure about the current ownership situation.
Two features of vineyard management at Dry River contribute to the style here. No irrigation is employed, despite the low rainfall, causing roots to go very deep for nutrients, stressing the vines, and producing small berries with concentrated flavors. Secondly, crop thinning at veraison is employed to severely limit yields. Neil McCallum makes no apologizes for his resulting style: “My suspicion is that New Zealand and cool maritime climates could have a large impact on the world perception of what Pinot Noir is capable of, although it will take some time before the new styles are completely accepted because Burgundy has been center stage for so long. Our own terroir can yield a predominance of plump, exuberant fruit flavors - to a fault in some instances, but they can also be rich and complex varietal statements. Add concentration and longevity to this, and great wines are possible.”
The Dry River Pinot Noirs are sold mainly by mail order with a small proportion are exported to the United States. One source is Southern Hemisphere Wine Center.
Articles About Dry River
Dry River: Martinborough’s Cult Pinot Noir (8.11 2/15/2010)
Dry River: Martinborough’s Cult Wine (7.4 10/13/2008)
Martinborough Cult Wine : Dry River (6.2 10/23/2006)
New Zealand Pinot Noirs from Salmanazar (9.49 10/20/2014)
Revisiting New Zealand Pinot Noir (8.25 11/7/2010)
Revisiting New Zealand Pinot Noir on the Occasion of Spectacular 2013 Vintage (10.25 2/5/2016)
Sips of Pinot from Down Under (8.7 12/16/2009)
Reviewed Wines
2010 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.58, RS <2.0g/l, $69.99.
Neil and Dawn McCallum planted a vineyard in one of the oldest Martinborough sheep stations in 1979. The
area has became known as the Martinborough Terrace (and Martinborough Terrace Appellation), a gravelly,
free-draining area within the lowest rainfall zone in the North Island. In 2002, the winery and 30 acres of
vineyards were sold to New York businessperson Julian Robertson and California winegrower Reg Oliver who
owns El Molino Winery in St. Helena, CA. Neil McCallum remained the winemaker until his retirement in 2011
and was replaced by Wilco Lam. Currently, the estate vineyards include Dry River Estate (first plantings 1979),
Craighall Vineyard (first plantings 1983), and Lovat Vineyard (first plantings 1992). Dry River wines are highly
valued, sold primarily by mail order, and only tiny quantities reach the USA retail market. Harvest Brix 23.0º.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Intriguing aromas of dark fruits, Mexican-spiced dark chocolate, clay and
damp earth. Mid weight plus core of purple and black fruits accented by notes of spice, espresso and
bittersweet chocolate. Luscious and sappy, but suave and sleek, with mildly firm tannins and vital acidity,
finishing with a charge of sweet blackberry fruit. Trends toward very ripe, even slightly roasted fruit flavors. A
unique and individualistic wine quite distinct from other New Zealand Pinot Noirs tasted for this review.
Score: 91.
Reviewed February 5, 2016
ARTICLE »
2008 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
12.5% alc.,
$95, long neck bottle. Imported RO Imports LLC, Napa, CA.
·
Moderately deep reddish-purple hue in the glass. Amazingly vivid array
of dark fruit aromas including hi-tone raspberry with nuances of tea and
dried rose petals. Delicious and well-mannered complex of cherry and
berry flavors with a very subtle leafy note. Seamless and seductive with
flavors that caress the mouth and fan out beautifully on the lush and generous
finish. More elegant and approachable than some vintages of this wine. One of
the world’s greatest Pinot Noirs and one of the most spellbinding Pinot Noirs I
have sampled this year.
Reviewed November 7, 2010
ARTICLE »
2008 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc.,
$95. Imported by R.O. Imports, LLC, Napa, CA. Stylish long neck bottle.
Tasted twice previously in November 2020 (score 94) and September
2013 (score 92). This bottle was not as appealing.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. Exotic, lovely nose with aromas of very
ripe black fruits, raisin, and black currant with notes of maple syrup,
spice, vanilla and violet. Intense and opulent on the palate with an array
of purple and black fruits including ollaliberry and black cherry. Soft,
smooth, even slightly viscous, showing some secondary characters of
leather and cigar box. The tannins have melded and there is touch of
citrus in the background. When tasted the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle, the flavors of sweet, very ripe
black cherry and tobacco stood out. An interesting wine that should
continue to satisfy for several years.
Score: 90.
Reviewed October 21, 2014
ARTICLE »
2008 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., $95. Imported by RO
Imports LLC, Napa, CA.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. The
aromas need time to arrive, eventually showing red berries, spice and vanilla.
Delicate in this vintage, with flavors of dark red cherries and berries that are long
on the palate. Light on its feet and very supple, the tannins are nicely managed
and the wine finishes with some appealing raspberry character. A little better
later in the day and much better the next day from a previously opened and recorked
bottle.
Score: 92.
Reviewed September 5, 2013
ARTICLE »
2006 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $80. Imported by RO Imports,
LLC, Napa, CA.
·
Syrah-like color and structure. Very contemplative nose showing nuanced scents of a
variety of wild dark berries, with considerable oak-derived notes of spice, browned marshmallow, brandy,
and vanilla. Utterly amazing intense and saturating sun-kissed flavors of plums, blackberries, and currants with a
savory, woodsy undertone and a hint of tangerine peel on the extremely long finish. Easy to mistake for
a young Grand Cru Burgundy with the biggest tip off being the amazing persistence at the end.
Beautifully balanced for the long haul. Still exceptional the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle displaying more softness and harmony. A truly unique wine of great distinction that stands out from the crowd.
Serve this wine blind to any of your Pinot geek buddies, let them try to guess where it is from, and you will find
many surprised winos.
Reviewed February 15, 2010
ARTICLE »
2006 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $90. Imported by
RO Imports LLC,, California.
·
Substantial color and structure. Complex aromatic profile that
changes in the glass showing dark berries, vanilla, wood spice, browned marshmallows and
brandy. Satisfying flavors of plums, currants, and blackberries with a woodsy and citrus
undertone. Intense, even saturating fruit, but not jelly jar rich. Amazing persistence on the
finish. The tannic backbone is ripe and substantial and the wine has the balance to age.
Easy to mistake for a Grand Cru Burgundy with its expansive and lingering finish. A very
unique wine that stands out from the Pinot crowd. Very good.
Reviewed December 16, 2009
ARTICLE »
2004 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $70, numbered bottles, cork closure.
McCallum reported that in 2004 only a few frosts were met with (helicopter protection was used only
three times) and there was no damage to the flowers. The growing season was wet but conditions
were consistently warm producing solid cropping levels and boosting phenolic ripeness. A more forward
wine than the expected to be long-lived 2003 vintage.
·
A darkly colored wine with a heady nose of black
cherries and plums with a smoky oak accent. Fig, prune, black cherry and plum flavors on the doorstep
of overripeness but never crossing the threshold. The complexity is astonishing with exotic spices and a
number of flavors I have never encountered with Pinot Noir. An epiphanic wine that was the best Pinot Noir I
tasted among all the wines from New Zealand reviewed in this issue.
Reviewed October 13, 2008
ARTICLE »
2003 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir
13% alc., $70, numbered bottles. The 2003 vintage at Dry
River was very dry and yields were small. The fruit for this wine was harvested at 1.2 tons per acre. McCallum notes that in a recent vertical tasting
of Dry River Pinot Noirs, the 1989 through 1991 vintages were still showing extremely well. Proper
cellaring will be rewarded. Bob Campbell, MW, said it best: “This wine is not a fruit bomb - it’s a time
bomb.”
·
The color is a strikingly dark violet. A deep, rich nose features ripe cherries, raspberries, vanilla and
smoke. The mouth feel is very big and plush with generous amounts of sweet fruit. The finish is clean and
lengthy and echoes licorice, dark stone fruits, and pleasing oak. The wine has a great backbone of acidity
and tannins. This Pinot noir has a very powerful charisma.
Reviewed October 23, 2006
ARTICLE »
2003 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $70,
numbered bottles, cork closure. The 2003 vintage at Dry River
was very dry and yields were small. The fruit for this wine was
harvested at 1.2 tons per acre.
·
The color is a strikingly dark
violet. A deep and rich nose features ripe cherries,
raspberries, vanilla and smoke. The mouth feel is very big
and plush with generous amounts of sweet fruit. The finish is
clean and lengthy and echoes licorice, dark stone fruits, and pleasing
oak. The wine has an impressive backbone of acidity and tannins. A
Pinot Noir with very powerful charisma. (Reviewed October 13, 2006)
Reviewed October 13, 2008
ARTICLE »
2010 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.58, RS <2.0g/l, $69.99. Neil and Dawn McCallum planted a vineyard in one of the oldest Martinborough sheep stations in 1979. The area has became known as the Martinborough Terrace (and Martinborough Terrace Appellation), a gravelly, free-draining area within the lowest rainfall zone in the North Island. In 2002, the winery and 30 acres of vineyards were sold to New York businessperson Julian Robertson and California winegrower Reg Oliver who owns El Molino Winery in St. Helena, CA. Neil McCallum remained the winemaker until his retirement in 2011 and was replaced by Wilco Lam. Currently, the estate vineyards include Dry River Estate (first plantings 1979), Craighall Vineyard (first plantings 1983), and Lovat Vineyard (first plantings 1992). Dry River wines are highly valued, sold primarily by mail order, and only tiny quantities reach the USA retail market. Harvest Brix 23.0º. · Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Intriguing aromas of dark fruits, Mexican-spiced dark chocolate, clay and damp earth. Mid weight plus core of purple and black fruits accented by notes of spice, espresso and bittersweet chocolate. Luscious and sappy, but suave and sleek, with mildly firm tannins and vital acidity, finishing with a charge of sweet blackberry fruit. Trends toward very ripe, even slightly roasted fruit flavors. A unique and individualistic wine quite distinct from other New Zealand Pinot Noirs tasted for this review. Score: 91. Reviewed February 5, 2016 ARTICLE »
2008 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., $95, long neck bottle. Imported RO Imports LLC, Napa, CA. · Moderately deep reddish-purple hue in the glass. Amazingly vivid array of dark fruit aromas including hi-tone raspberry with nuances of tea and dried rose petals. Delicious and well-mannered complex of cherry and berry flavors with a very subtle leafy note. Seamless and seductive with flavors that caress the mouth and fan out beautifully on the lush and generous finish. More elegant and approachable than some vintages of this wine. One of the world’s greatest Pinot Noirs and one of the most spellbinding Pinot Noirs I have sampled this year. Reviewed November 7, 2010 ARTICLE »
2008 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $95. Imported by R.O. Imports, LLC, Napa, CA. Stylish long neck bottle. Tasted twice previously in November 2020 (score 94) and September 2013 (score 92). This bottle was not as appealing. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Exotic, lovely nose with aromas of very ripe black fruits, raisin, and black currant with notes of maple syrup, spice, vanilla and violet. Intense and opulent on the palate with an array of purple and black fruits including ollaliberry and black cherry. Soft, smooth, even slightly viscous, showing some secondary characters of leather and cigar box. The tannins have melded and there is touch of citrus in the background. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the flavors of sweet, very ripe black cherry and tobacco stood out. An interesting wine that should continue to satisfy for several years. Score: 90. Reviewed October 21, 2014 ARTICLE »
2008 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., $95. Imported by RO Imports LLC, Napa, CA. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. The aromas need time to arrive, eventually showing red berries, spice and vanilla. Delicate in this vintage, with flavors of dark red cherries and berries that are long on the palate. Light on its feet and very supple, the tannins are nicely managed and the wine finishes with some appealing raspberry character. A little better later in the day and much better the next day from a previously opened and recorked bottle. Score: 92. Reviewed September 5, 2013 ARTICLE »
2006 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $80. Imported by RO Imports, LLC, Napa, CA. · Syrah-like color and structure. Very contemplative nose showing nuanced scents of a variety of wild dark berries, with considerable oak-derived notes of spice, browned marshmallow, brandy, and vanilla. Utterly amazing intense and saturating sun-kissed flavors of plums, blackberries, and currants with a savory, woodsy undertone and a hint of tangerine peel on the extremely long finish. Easy to mistake for a young Grand Cru Burgundy with the biggest tip off being the amazing persistence at the end. Beautifully balanced for the long haul. Still exceptional the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle displaying more softness and harmony. A truly unique wine of great distinction that stands out from the crowd. Serve this wine blind to any of your Pinot geek buddies, let them try to guess where it is from, and you will find many surprised winos. Reviewed February 15, 2010 ARTICLE »
2006 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $90. Imported by RO Imports LLC,, California. · Substantial color and structure. Complex aromatic profile that changes in the glass showing dark berries, vanilla, wood spice, browned marshmallows and brandy. Satisfying flavors of plums, currants, and blackberries with a woodsy and citrus undertone. Intense, even saturating fruit, but not jelly jar rich. Amazing persistence on the finish. The tannic backbone is ripe and substantial and the wine has the balance to age. Easy to mistake for a Grand Cru Burgundy with its expansive and lingering finish. A very unique wine that stands out from the Pinot crowd. Very good. Reviewed December 16, 2009 ARTICLE »
2004 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $70, numbered bottles, cork closure. McCallum reported that in 2004 only a few frosts were met with (helicopter protection was used only three times) and there was no damage to the flowers. The growing season was wet but conditions were consistently warm producing solid cropping levels and boosting phenolic ripeness. A more forward wine than the expected to be long-lived 2003 vintage. · A darkly colored wine with a heady nose of black cherries and plums with a smoky oak accent. Fig, prune, black cherry and plum flavors on the doorstep of overripeness but never crossing the threshold. The complexity is astonishing with exotic spices and a number of flavors I have never encountered with Pinot Noir. An epiphanic wine that was the best Pinot Noir I tasted among all the wines from New Zealand reviewed in this issue. Reviewed October 13, 2008 ARTICLE »
2003 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir
13% alc., $70, numbered bottles. The 2003 vintage at Dry River was very dry and yields were small. The fruit for this wine was harvested at 1.2 tons per acre. McCallum notes that in a recent vertical tasting of Dry River Pinot Noirs, the 1989 through 1991 vintages were still showing extremely well. Proper cellaring will be rewarded. Bob Campbell, MW, said it best: “This wine is not a fruit bomb - it’s a time bomb.” · The color is a strikingly dark violet. A deep, rich nose features ripe cherries, raspberries, vanilla and smoke. The mouth feel is very big and plush with generous amounts of sweet fruit. The finish is clean and lengthy and echoes licorice, dark stone fruits, and pleasing oak. The wine has a great backbone of acidity and tannins. This Pinot noir has a very powerful charisma. Reviewed October 23, 2006 ARTICLE »
2003 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $70, numbered bottles, cork closure. The 2003 vintage at Dry River was very dry and yields were small. The fruit for this wine was harvested at 1.2 tons per acre. · The color is a strikingly dark violet. A deep and rich nose features ripe cherries, raspberries, vanilla and smoke. The mouth feel is very big and plush with generous amounts of sweet fruit. The finish is clean and lengthy and echoes licorice, dark stone fruits, and pleasing oak. The wine has an impressive backbone of acidity and tannins. A Pinot Noir with very powerful charisma. (Reviewed October 13, 2006) Reviewed October 13, 2008 ARTICLE »