Quick Trigger: Are Reviews Done Too Soon?
Pinot Noir from California and Oregon producers is often sent for review shortly after bottling. There is an
urgency to get the newest vintage ratings in the marketplace. Wine critics often tell consumers to wait a year or
two or more because they predict that the wine will improve in bottle. Unfortunately, once a wine is reviewed
early in its life, the score is a permanent tattoo that the wine must carry for many years.
I decided to look at Pinot Noir wines I had previously reviewed and compare to my reviews and scores
approximately 16-26 months later. I had this unique opportunity available to me since producers often send two
bottles of each wine and I tucked the second bottle away in my temperature controlled wine locker. This is a
modest sampling, but can provide valuable insight. On my second reviews, I did not look at the original reviews
or scores to bias me. Bottle variation can come into play here but let’s disregard that minor confounder. As far
as I know, no wine critic has ever undertaken this type of study.
The approximate time between reviews follows the wine’s title. Two of the second wines I chose to review
were corked and not included - this is why wineries often send two bottles for review. I only chose wines that I
thought received scores of 90 or above on initial review.
2013 Alma Fria Holtermann Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
26 months
·
Earth-kissed aromas including
black cherry, peppery spices, pine forest and savory herbs. A generous gulp of beautifully ripened black cherry
and black raspberry fruits entice the palate. Mid weight plus in style, with suave tannins, a compliment of oak,
and a very long finish. Previously 90
Score: 94
2013 LaRue Emmaline Ann Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
26 months
·
Very pleasant aromas of red
berry, rose petal, burnt tobacco, spice and Herbs d’ Provence. Light in weight but imposing black cherry and
raspberry flavors with a hint of tobacco and spice. Excellent harmony with a very generous and lengthy finish.
Definitely some whole cluster input but integrated. Previously 90
Score: 93
2013 Lucienne Doctor’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
26 months
·
The barrel treatment is
evident on the nose that also offers pleasing aromas of dark red and black fruits. The middleweight core of
black cherry and blackberry fruits has a significant oak overlay evident as toast and tobacco. The fruit core is
delicious and the silky, soft tannins make for smooth drinking, but the oak is intrusive and has become more
evident over time in bottle. Previously 91
Score: 89
2013 Winderlea Legacy Dundee Hills Pinot Noir
26 months
·
Aromas of cherry, spice and earthy flora lead to
a lighter weighted concentrate of cheerful cherry flavor in a crisp, elegant styled wine with gentle tannins and
juicy acidity. Nicely balanced and at its peak. Previously 91
Score: 90
2014 Domaine De La Côte Bloom’s Field Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
24 months
·
Aromas of cherry, raspberry,
burnt tobacco, rose petal and fertile earth. Nicely balanced with good vibrancy, featuring a bright cherry core
framed by suave, silky tannins. A little tobacco and floral input. Elegant and lacy, with a burst of cherry
goodness on the bright finishing. Fades slightly over time in the glass. Previously 93.
Score: 92
2014 Sante Arcangeli Lester Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
24 months
·
The oakdominated
nose does offer some cherry and spice aromas. The oak is better integrated on the palate in this
mid weight styled wine displaying the essence of black cherries. The tannins are immersed, the oak adds a
compliment, and the bright, lip-smacking finish is notable. Previously 91
Score: 91
2014 Westwood Annadel Gap Vineyard Heritage Clones Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
24 months
·
The nose
offers only aromas of earth, mulch and barrel and no fruit emerges even with extensive swirling. Much better
on the palate, with mid weight plus very tasty flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and spice framed by
integrated tannins and a thread of oak. The wine finishes with welcome generosity and juiciness. Previously 90
Score: 92
2014 Hibou Riddle Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
23 months
·
Wonderful expressive nose
offering aromas of purple grape and berry, blooming rose, pine needle and earthy flora. Mid weight flavors of
blackberry and black raspberry framed by imposing oak. Creamy in texture, with balanced tannins and some
finishing intensity. Seems to be showing more oak than when reviewed originally. Previously 96
Score: 92
2013 Broadley Vineyards Shea Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir
22 months
·
Inviting aromas of black
cherry, violets and oak fade a bit over time in the glass. Light to mid weight flavors of black cherry and anise
with noticeable tannins, a slick mouth feel and a decent but not exceptional finish. Previously 91-92
Score: 89
2014 Masút Estate Vineyard Eagle Peak Mendocino Pinot Noir
21 months
·
An assortment of well-ripened,
even slightly stewed dark fruit aromas with hints of dusty earth and floral bouquet. Mid weight flavors of
blackberry, black raspberry, pomegranate and black tea in harmony with well-structured tannins. Previously 93
Score: 90
2014 Siduri Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
(screw cap) 21 months
·
An impressive wine
that really satisfies on the richly appointed palate. Aromas and flavors of ripe cherries and a hint of vanilla
impress on the attack and extremely long finish. The fruit really has traction and there is a good grip of acidity
to lift the fruit load. Still outstanding when tasted two days later from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Previously 94
Score: 94
2014 Kitá Hilliard Bruce Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
20 months
·
The nose is very charming, offering
hi-tone aromas of cherry, fragrant compost, mushroom, allspice and root beer. Impressive harmony and
vibrancy, with the mid weight essence of perfectly ripened cherries complimented by a slight spice and bourbon
note. Attention-getting on the attack and wonderful intensity and length on the finish. This wine has really
picked up nuance and interest over time. Previously 91
Score: 94
2013 Asuncion Ridge Barrel Select San Louis Obispo County Pinot Noir
19 months
·
A robust reserve
style wine with a highly aromatic nose of spiced dark berry aromas. Good marriage of mid weight plus purple
and black fruits with tobacco oak. Gentle tannins and decent finish. Several more years of good drinking
ahead. Previously 91
Score: 93
2014 Navarro Vineyards Deep End Blend Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
18 months
·
The aroma of dark
crushed cherries is not penetrating but very pleasant and accented with some seasoned barrel. Generously
concentrated black cherry fruit is accented with hints of spice and sassafras. The texture is velvety, the t n’ a
balance is spot on, and there is some finishing vigor. Previously 90
Score: 93
2014 Luminous Hills LUX Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir
18 months
·
Reserved, but pleasant aromas of black
cherry and pomegranate. The theme is cherry goodness in this mid weight wine that shows seamless balance,
a silky mouth feel and a long finish. A very giving and friendly wine at this point. Previously 91
Score: 92
2014 Seven of Hearts Special Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
18 months
·
Inviting perfume of black
cherry, exotic spices and fertile earth. Light to mid weight in dark red and purple fruit concentrate. Noteworthy
attack and length in the mouth, with engaging elegance, balanced tannins and a finish deserving of special
reserve designation. Previously 90-91
Score: 93
2014 Balletto BCD Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
17 months
·
Soaring aromas of Bing cherry,
baking spices, cardamom and a bit of oak. Velvety in the mouth, with a charge of fresh black cherry fruit
accented with warm spices and a touch of toasty oak. Impeccably balanced, with a charitable finish. Previously 92
Score: 93
2012 Amalie Robert Amalie’s Cuvée Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
16 months
·
Aromas of cherry, leather and
dry mulch lead to a middleweight styled wine with ingratiating flavors of red cherry and red berry. Nicely
composed, with polish and balance and a deeply fruited finish. At its peak. Previously 94
Score: 93
2015 Loring Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
16 months
·
Charming aromas of iced
red cherry and sandalwood. Light in weight and very elegant, with a core of red cherry and cranberry fruit
flavors. Satisfying and easy going with very fine-grain tannins and some persistence on the finish. Previously 90
Score: 91
Conclusion: 6 wines were significantly better upon re-tasting, 5 wines were better upon re-tasting, 3 wines
were the same upon re-tasting and 7 wines were worse upon re-tasting. In other words, about 50% were better
and 50% were the same or worse when re-tasted 16-26 months after the initial review. The results are like
marriage: you vow to love your spouse for better or worse, not knowing what is going to happen down the road.
Noted wine writer, Matt Kramer, approached the subject of aging wine in the latest issue of the Wine Spectator.
His conclusion was, “Most mature wines aren’t worth the wait. Exceptions exist.” Certainly with domestic Pinot
Noir, there are wineries with a track record of age ability (ie Cristom, Calera, Eyrie, Littorai, Hanzell) and you
can feel confident in cellaring the wines from those producers, but the majority of domestic wines are ready to
go upon release. I say carefully choose your domestic Pinot Noir wines, buy at least six bottles, and taste them
over 1-7 years to see how they age. You can then decide if you like the freshness of youth or the maturity of
older age and determine the aging potential of wines from different producers. The challenge is that Pinot Noir
does not give up its charms at a predictable point in time and that can drive you crazy. They didn’t anoint it the
“heartbreak grape” for no reason!
Are wines released too soon after bottling? Almost certainly, but that is necessary for a winery’s operating
budget and not ideal. Although many winemakers would love to hold back their latest releases for a year or two
before release, storing a few vintages before release is a costly commitment and the retail and restaurant
market will not tolerate it.
Most believe it takes 6 to 9 months for a bottled wine to return to its barreled state although there are
exceptions depending on the bottling process. After the shock of bottling, the wines are often sent to a storage
facility, and then shook up when shipped. Most producers advise waiting a month or so after receiving shipped
Pinot Noir before opening bottles. Other wines, like Chardonnay, seem to have no qualm about shipping and
there is no need to wait. If you can spring for an expensive Coravin, you can get a peek before opening but I
have found this of little value as Pinot Noir changes so much when poured and exposed to oxygen.
