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Tasting of Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noirs



“Atypical for Burt’s Pinot Noir, yet the powerfully-built 2009 Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noir
is one of his greatest wines.”

Rusty Gaffney



A November 2019 tasting of nearly all of the Pinot Noirs from Morning Dew Ranch, 2004-2016, was organized by me and held at Benovia Winery in Santa Rosa. In attendance besides myself were Benovia winemaker Michael Sullivan, Brogan Cellars owner and winemaker Margie Williams- Wierenga, Woodenhead Cellars owner and winemaker Nikolai Stez, and Benovia assistant Winemaker Adolfo Hernandez. The wines were provided by Margi, Nikolai, Jason Drew of Drew Family Cellars and myself.

The wines were tasted in flights according to producer so the different styles of winemaking were evident. Nearly all the wines were truly enjoyable, but the 2008 vintage wines suffered from smoke taint and their enjoyment was dependent on the taster’s tolerance for this flaw (or terroir expression if you prefer since the vintage was marked by fires in Mendocino County prior to harvest). The Woodenhead wines were the closest stylistically to Burt’s Williams Selyem Pinot Noirs.



Flight #1

2004 Woodenhead Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc.. Unfined and unfiltered. 21.4% clone 777, 64.2% Rochioli selection (22% added as whole cluster) and 14.2% clone 23. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Aromas of forest floor and bruised cherry lead to a mid weight plus styled wine offering blackberry and cassis flavors with a hint of oak in the background. Still very much alive, with a juicy finish.

2005 Woodenhead Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc.. Unfined and unfiltered. 66.6% Rochioli selection and 33.3% clone “828.’ · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Enticing aromas of spice, dried leaves and floral bouquet. A full-bodied wine, with a gorgeous core of Bing cherry fruit, gracious tannins, a trace of oak and a long finish with a good cut of acidity. Exceptional.

2006 Woodenhead Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc.. Unfined and unfiltered. 100% Rochioli selection. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Aromas of earthy flora and red cherry. A lighter-weighted wine featuring redder fruits and more spirited acidity.

2007 Woodenhead Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc.. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Terrific aromatic purity with scents of black cherry, white pepper, tobacco and seasoned oak. Beautifully balanced in a mid weight style featuring a charge of fresh, darker red fruits infused with joyous acidity. A 12-year-old wine that is still remarkably fresh.

No 2008 Woodenhead Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noir was produced due to the vintage smoke taint.



Flight #2

2006 Brogan Cellars Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., $90 (magnum). Aged 11 month in 50% new French oak barrels. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Slightly oxidized, offering aromas of cherry and herbs. Middleweight in style and sleek in texture, with appealing flavors of dark red berry and cherry and pennyroyal. Good supportive acidity.

2006 Brogan Cellars My Father’s Vineyard Shula’s Pond Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.7% alc.. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Slight oxidative nose. Intense flavors of dark red cherry and berry in a mid weight plus style, with modest ripe tannins and a big, sweet cherry finish.

2008 Brogan Cellars My Father’s Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., $50. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. The dark fruited core has faded some and the acidity and tannins peak out. There is definite smoke taint evident on the nose and palate.

2009 Brogan Cellars My Father’s Vineyard Shula’s Pond Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., $70. “828” block. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with black cherry, black raspberry and spice. A comforting wine with fine balance in a mid weight style offering flavors of purple and black fruits and cola framed by modest residual tannins and finishing with purpose. Very enjoyable.

2013 Brogan Cellars My Father’s Vineyard Margi’s Block

13.6% alc.. 100% Rochioli selection. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. A clean, fresh array of dark red berry fruit aromas lead to a lively mid weight style offering a core of fresh Bing cherry and cola fruit with a hint of anise. Nicely composed, with a persistent finish. Excellent.



Flight #3

2010 Drew Morning Dew Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 165 cases, $47. The second release from this vineyard. Rochioli selection and clone “828.” The Rochioli block is planted in lighter soils providing finesse and charm while the “828” block is planted in darker, more clay-imbued soils giving more power and richness. 50% whole cluster. 50% native fermentation. Aged 11 months in 30% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Appealing aromas of cherry, spice and leaf. A cherry-driven wine in a mid weight style with a compliment of spice. Well-balanced with gossamer tannins and some finishing drive. I liked this wine a lot and was impressed by how well it aged.

2011 Drew Morning Dew Ranch Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

12.6% alc.. Rochioli selection and clone “828.” · Light garnet color in the glass. Pleasing aromas of red cherry, earthy flora, cinnamon and pennyroyal. Light in weight, with muted red fruit flavors backed by good acidity. A little Brettanomyces in this bottle.

2012 Drew Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $55. Rochioli selection and clone “828.” Hºarvest Brix 22.5º-23.5º. 30% whole cluster. Native fermentation. Aged 11 months in 33% French oak barrels. · Light garnet color in the glass. Fresh aromas of cherry soar from the glass. An elegant wine with a sleek texture, featuring red fruits framed by gentle tannins. Nicely composed and charming.

2013 Drew Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.64, 198 cases, $55. Rochioli selection and clone “828.” Harvest Brix 23.0º-23.5º. Yield 1.5 tons per acre. 50% whole cluster. Native primary and malolactic fermentation. Aged 11 months in 25% new French oak barrels. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Terrific, heady nose displaying hi-tone aromas of cherry and exotic spice. A mid weight plus cherry bomb in a mid weight plus style maintaining balance with ripe tannins and complimentary acidity. Extraordinary.

2014 Drew Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., 166 cases, $60. 66% Rochioli selection and 34% clone “828.” Yield 1.7 tons per acre. Native fermentation. Aged 11 months in 30% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Lovely scent of cherries, spice and rose petal. Elegantly styled with a mid weight core of dark cherry fruit. A little herb and tobacco flavor chimes in. Rather straightforward, but pleasurable.

2015 Drew Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., 75 cases, $60. Yields down more than 50% in this vintage to 0.50 tons per acre. Rochioli selection and clone “828.” 50% whole cluster. Native yeast fermentation. Aged 11 months in 33% new Francois Frères French oak barrels. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Deep aromas of cherry and exotic spices. Really good bones in this refined, mid weight plus, young wine still showing some tannin and oak overlying the delicious dark red fruits. Needs time.



Flight #4

2009 Whitcraft Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc.. Chris Whitcraft first produced a Pinot Noir from Burt’s vineyard in 2004. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. The nose is very funky replete with hospital bandage aroma. Very ripe fruited, even compotey in a full-bodied style featuring blackberry fruit flavor. Off bottle.

2014 Williams Selyem Burt Williams’ Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., $82. Aged 16 months in 67% new French oak barrels. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of dusty black cherry, spice and and oak. A mid weight plus styled wine fueled with intense black cherry flavor shadowed by oak. Finishes with some drive and length.

2016 Williams Selyem Burt Williams’ Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.6% alc., $85. Aged 16 months in 57% new and 43% 1-year-old French oak barrels. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. The nose is a bit muted with faint aromas of black cherry and cola. More charming on the palate but does not offer the fruit intensity of the 2014 vintage tasted prior. Rather generic and may be not be an exemplary bottle.

2008 Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., 197 cases, $60. A selection of three blocks, each a different clone. 25% whole cluster. Fermentation in open-top, stainless steel tanks for 12 days. Gravity racked and pressed to 100% new Francois Frères oak barrels. Aged 15 months on the gross lees before being racked to a tank for bottling. The wine was never pumped, fined or filtered. Burt’s notes: “The vintage and terroir are both present in this wine as they have been in all my wines. There is initially a smoky aroma that combines a dark berry fruit component with hints of roasted nuts and earth, medium-rich palate, ripe tannins and berries on the finish. My suggestion is to decant the wine to allow the smoky components to recede a bit and allow the fruit to come forward showing berry and pie cherry complexities. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of sweet pipe smoke, barbecue and black cherries. Clearly smoke tainted in a mid weight plus style featuring dark cherry and berry fruits, finishing with mild astringency.

2009 Morning Dew Ranch Jan’s Cuvée Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.6% alc., 228 cases, $75. Burt used grapes that were left over after others had picked and includes Rochioli selection and DRC selection. The winemaking regimen was the same as for the 2008 vintage. Burt is a modest soul, but calls this “A wine apart.” I have tasted this wine now four times including this November tasting. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Alluring aromas of pie cherries, spice, and white pepper. Tantalizing flavors of brandied black cherries, black raspberries, anise and spice in a mid weight plus style. Lovely, with impeccable balance and an incredibly long finish. A majestic wine and one of Burt’s best achievements.

The following wine was not included in the November tasting but was tasted by me at home. I have included it so that every winery that sourced Morning Dew Ranch grapes is part of this tasting report. Miura Vineyards, located in Santa Rosa, is owned by Emmanuel Kemjii and the wine is crafted by Byron Kosuge. This winery produced a Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noir in 2011 (2 cases), 2012 (184 cases), 2013 (133 cases), 2014 (147 cases) and 2015 (38 cases).

2015 Miura Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., 38 cases, $75. Yields reduced by 65%. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Pleasing aromas of dark berries, rose petal and sweet oak. Sleek and polished in the mouth, with vibrant flavors of black cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate with a compliment of oak in the background. Plenty of fruit substance, but not overblown, with gentle fine-grain tannins, and a demonstrative, juicy finish. Excellent.


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