VOLUME 9, ISSUE 38
February 22, 2014
ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE:
Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard: A Description & Vertical Tasting Tasting Aged Williams Selyem Pinot Noir: Bottled Surprises Pinot Noir “Clone 95”: Dick Erath Revives an Old Treasure Failla Wines Sips of Recently Tasted Wines Hearty Burgundy Celebrates 50 Years Tasting Rooms Threatening to Overtax Healdsburg and Sonoma Pinot Briefs
Alma Rosa Vineyards & Winery
Owner Richard Sanford was a pioneer in Santa Barbara County viticulture and winemaking, planting the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard in what is now know as the Santa Rita Hills back in 1970. He was the first to see the potential of the Santa Rita Hills region for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Sanford went on to develop a respected and eventually large winery, Sanford Winery, in 1981, which had a small, quaint tasting room at 7250 Santa Rosa Road west of Hwy 101 in Buellton made famous by the movie, 'Sideways.' From 1983 to 1999, Sanford wines were produced in a small facility in Buellton by Richard's winemaker, Bruno D'Alfonso. In 2000, A unique, adobe-based, all natural materials-built winery was constructed which Richard described as follows. "The facility was integrated with strong environmental principals and elements of certain Eastern philosophies, particularly the Chinese concept of Tao - emphasizing simplicity." He was eventually to lose this winery, but his influence has never been diminished.
Sanford was born on the Hawaiian island of Oahu in 1941, the son of a naval officer. While his father fought the war in the Pacific, the family relocated to California to a home in Rolling Hills on the Palos Verdes Peninsula. His father suffered a serious injury while on board a Korean War-bound ship in San Francisco Bay that was struck by a freighter and was never the same mentally. This came at the tender age of 9 for Sanford. His father was to commit suicide two decades later.
He attended El Segundo High School and worked for the merchant marine. He first studied geology at University of California at Santa Barbara, but was more interested in geography and transferred to University of California at Berkeley which offered classes in this field of study. After graduating in 1965, he served in the U.S. Navy where he worked as a navigator on a destroyer stationed off the coast of North Viet Nam. He was opposed to the war and hitched many rides on military courier planes to see the world.
Once back in California, he sailed competitively in Santa Barbara and was introduced to people who might be interested in investing in a vineyard. He also met Thekla in a sailboat. He started a company that produced educational videotapes, but he disliked the Hollywood types he had to deal with. He wanted to work outside and be more "earthly connected."
Sanford likes to tell the story of when he was given a bottle of Volnay from Burgundy while in the Navy. The was an epiphany and he fell in love with Pinot Noir. He found, however, that Pinot Noir from warmer areas in California were too heavy. He studied years of weather reports from Burgundy and cross-referenced with California to locate similarities. Equipped with this information, he drove around with a thermometer sticking out the windshield.
His searched for a proper region to grow Pinot Noir found him in what is now known as the Sta. Rita Hills. He laughs when he remembers driving up and down Highway 246 between Buellton and Lompoc holding a thermometer out the window of his car as he took temperature readings. Sanford realized that the climate was unique because of the west-to-east lying Transverse Range of mountains that led to significant maritime influence. He noted that the average temperature rose about one degree for each mile he drove inland. He was also interested in Edna Valley and Los Alamos. Most people at the time thought that Pinot Noir could not be grown this far south.
Sanford ended up coming to the Sta. Rita Hills for reasons of climate only and settled on a site which eventually became Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. He teamed up with botanist Michael Benedict and raised money through investors in Southern California. The pair bought a 473-acre piece of Rancho Santa Rosa that had once been dry-farmed for beans and barley. In 1971, the 120-acre Sanford & Benedict Vineyard along Santa Rosa Road was planted with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Sanford became a winegrower immediately and learned on the job. A makeshift winery was established in an old barn on the property. Open top fermenters were built out of white oak. Thekla had moved to the vineyard to be with Sanford in time for the first harvest in 1976, and they would eventually get married at the vineyard in 1978.
Sanford's first Pinot Noir was received with enthusiasm by wine critics and Robert Lawrence Balzar wrote an article titled, "American Grand Cru in a Lompoc Barn." Some consider the Sanford Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir to be one of the seminal wines in California wine history.
The partners had a falling out by 1980 and the two parted ways with Benedict retaining ownership of the vineyard. The Sanfords would regain ownership of the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard in 1990.
The Sanfords founded Sanford Winery in 1981, at first sourcing grapes from other vineyards. In 1983, a former Buellton warehouse became their winemaking facility and they hired Bruno D'Alfonso as their winemaker (who was to stay for 25 years). A new vineyard was planted on their Rancho El Jabali property and was one of the first in the region to be farmed organically and the Sanford-owned vineyards were to be the first organically certified in Santa Barbara County. Until his venture, most of the winegrowers in Santa Barbara County sold their fruit in bulk to northern California producers who incorporated the grapes into bulk blends and inexpensive wines.
In 1995, the La Rinconada Vineyard was planted and in 2000, La Encantada Vineyard. The Sanfords were farming about 450 acres of organic vineyards and making nearly 50,000 cases of wine.
Beginning in 2002, a number of events played out and Richard lost his namesake winery to his business partners at Sanford (Terlato Family and Paterno Wines), but retained ownership of the El Jabali Vineyard adjacent to the tasting room, assumed a lease on the La Encantada Vineyard and began a new venture, Alma Rosa Vineyards & Winery, which released its first wines in 2004. The name comes from "alma," which means "soul" in Spanish. Bruno d'Alphonso left to start his own label, and Christan Roguenant was brought on as the winemaker at Alma Rosa. Alma Rosa reacquired the original tasting room (pictured right) located on the Sanford's home ranch. The loss of Sanford Winery was understandably devastating to Richard and Thekla and their family, but they loved the wine business and became invested in their new winery with gusto.
Richard was instrumental in obtaining recognition of Sta. Rita Hills as a distinct American Viticultural Area. His legacy is assured, even though the Sanford Winery website fails to recognize Richard or Thekla Sanford for any of their founding achievements. Richard and Thekla have shown an untiring devotion to charitable work and commitment to conservation, sustainability and altruistic endeavors. Sanford was the first person from the Central Coast of California to be inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame.
Sanford's career has been an economic, emotional and psychological struggle. In 2012, Alma Rosa Vineyards & Winery filed for bankruptcy, but the winery operations have continued unchanged, producing about 15,000 cases of wine annually, and it is hoped the winery will be able to successfully reorganize. The tasting room remains open. Remarkably, Richard still attends many winemaker dinners and festivals, promoting his wines face-to-face.
Alma Rosa produces estate Pinot Noir from El Jabali Vineyard and La Encantada Vineyard, both of which are in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA and are certified organic. The wines are consistently excellent.
Much of the history above was gleamed from an article in the Santa Barbara Independent (April 19-26, 2012) written by Matt Kettman, "Visionary Vintner: Richard Sanford's Rise to Winemaking Royalty."
Articles About Alma Rosa Vineyards & Winery
Alma Rosa: The Newest from Richard Sanford (7.12 2/12/2009)
Legends of California Pinot Noir (7.24 8/28/2009)
Pinot Briefs (9.10 8/22/2012)
Pinot Briefs (8.45 11/1/2011)
Pinot on the River 2010: Wilted in the Rain (8.25 11/7/2010)
Sta. Rita Hills 2013 Wine and Fire (9.32 10/26/2013)
Sta. Rita Hills Wine & Fire (6.33 7/23/2007)
WOPN: 7th Heaven for Pinot Geeks (6.18 3/5/2007)
2007 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $38, 6,301 cases, screw cap. · Rich and thick aromas of dark fruits and smoke. Deep, dark and intense black raspberry flavor with noticeable but fine-grained tannins and good acidity. Needs substantial food. Reviewed February 12, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 Alma Rosa El Jabali Vineyard Mt. Eden Clone, Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 236 cases, $49, screw cap. · Perfumed and floral with spiced raisins dominating. Light in the mouth with rich and juicy raspberry fruit finishing with a flourish of tannin. The most pinotosity and elegance of the three single clone bottlings. Tasted the next day from an opened and re-corked bottle, the wine was more approachable indicating patience is required. Hands off for 2-3 years. Reviewed February 12, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard Clone 667 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 234 cases, $49, screw cap. · This wine has an interesting aromatic profile showing cherries, earth, oak and masa. A bit of heat peaks out. Composed of both red and blue fruits with oak playing a backup role. Medium-bodied a silky mouth feel and noticeable tannin. Reviewed February 12, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard Clone 777 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 235 cases, $49, screw cap. · Pleasant aromas of smoke-tinged black cherry. Dark berries and cherries form a healthy and flashy core of fruit. Smooth, silky and clean with moderate ripe tannins. Reviewed February 12, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $49, screw cap. · Shy but pleasant black fruits and polished smoky wood on the nose. Sweet and plentiful black raspberry fruit with an oak accent. The wine sports plenty of dry tannins and a clean and lingering finish. Reviewed February 12, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Alma Rosa El Jabali Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir Vin Gris
13.8% alc., $20, screw cap. · The wine has a pretty orange-coral color that matches the color of the capsule. On the nose, tropical fruits, pineapple and butter give way in the glass to strawberries, persimmons, orange peel, marzipan and a hint of oak. Flavors echo the aromas with admirable richness and viscosity. Very food friendly due to the lively acidity which provides a bright and refreshing finish. Reviewed February 12, 2009 ARTICLE »
2005 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir
1,500 cases, $49, screw cap. · Like the 2004 version of this wine, it is plush with red and dark fruits, but nicely restrained and balanced. One of the great wines among many leading the charge in the Santa Rita Hills. Reviewed March 5, 2007 ARTICLE »
2005 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
1,500 cases, $49, screw cap. · The La Encantada has fabulous bright cherry aromatics, deep berry flavors with earth, spice and anise overtones, and a beautifully balanced format. Reviewed July 23, 2007 ARTICLE »
2004 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.0% alc. $40, screw cap. · This wine is holding its own nicely. I prefer it over the 2007 version. Lovely red cherry popsicle flavors that are crisp and clean with a hint of smoke, wood and grass. Very mild tannins still linger, bright acidity lifts the finish and the wine drinks beautifully. Reviewed February 12, 2009 ARTICLE »
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