Recently Tasted Pinot Noir & Chardonnay
Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards, Buellton, CA
It is important to pay homage to the pioneers of California Pinot Noir. Richard Sanford was the first to see the
potential of the Santa Rosa Hills region for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and went on to established a highly
respected winery, Sanford Winery, in 1981. He established the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard and many
consider the Sanford Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir to be one of the seminal wines in California wine history. In
1983 he planted E Jabali Vineyard, the La Rinconada Vineyard in 1995 and in 2000, the La Encantada
Vineyard. Beginning in 2002, a number of unfortunate events played out and Richard lost his namesake winery
to his business partners, but retained ownership of the El Jabali Vineyard, assumed a lease on the La
Encantada Vineyard, and began a new venture, Alma Rosa Vineyards & Winery, releasing his first wines in
2004. In 2015, Nick de Luca joined Alma Rosa as winemaker and works alongside Richard who is the director
of winemaking. Richard and his spouse, Thekla, have shown an untiring devotion to charitable work and
commitment to conservation, sustainability and altruistic endeavors. Richard was the first person from
California’s Central Coast to be inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame. Visit the website at
www.almarosawinery.com.
2014 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.62, 596 6
bottle packs, $55, screwcap. 100% clone 777. Harvest Brix 23.8º. Aged in about 25% new French oak barrels.
Bottled fined but unfiltered.
·
Light cherry red color in the glass. Very enticing aromas of red cherry, raspberry
and baking spices. Light to mid weight in style with juicy flavors of red stone and berry fruits accented with a
pleasant earthy tone. The fruit has a slight confected character. Forward drinking, with admirable finesse,
balanced tannins, a deft touch of oak, and a modest, but pleasing finish.
Score: 91
2014 Alma Rosa El Jabali Vineyard Mt. Eden Clone Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.56, 1,324 6 bottle packs, $55,
screwcap. Harvest Brix 24.1º. 10% whole cluster, 3-day cold soak, aged
16 in 20% new French oak barrels and 2 months in tank.
·
Light cherry red
color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, pungent herbs and mulch draw you
in to the glass. Noticeable attack and finish and more savory character in
this wine. Flavors of black cherry, blueberry, herbs, spice and dried rose.
Still showing vigorous tannins even the next day when tasted from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle. A gutty and gruff but complex
wine that will reward cellaring to ameliorate the tannins.
Score: 89-90
2014 Alma Rosa Barrel Select Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $60, screwcap.
·
Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Demure aromas of black cherry, sous-bois and pungent herbs. The wine needs time
to arouse itself, offering a core of well-spiced cherry fruit that is juicy and ripe. Somewhat elegant, with modest
tannins, and complimentary oak treatment. Much better the following day, with brighter cherry fruit and spice
expression, yet the aromatics still lag. Cellar this one for at least 2-3 years.
Score: 89-90
Brooks Note, Novato, CA
2014 Brooks Note Marin County Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.68, 250 cases, $36. A
blend from Chileno Valley Vineyard (46%) and Azaya Ranch Vineyard (54%). Clones are
Wädenswil 2A, Dijon 115 and 667 (Azaya Ranch) and Pommard and “828” (Chileno Valley). About
10% whole cluster. 3-day cold soak, native yeast inaugurated fermentation, aged 16 months in
French oak barrels, 27% new, 27% once-filled and 46% neutral. Bottled March 2016.
·
Moderately
light reddish purple color in the glass. I had to dig deep to pull out the shy aromas of earthembossed
cherry, plum, boysenberry, fall forest floor, and floral bouquet. Light to mid weight in
style, with flavors of plum, red and purple berry and pomegranate. Sleek in the mouth, with supportive tannins,
and good lift and juiciness. Forward drinking and pleasing. A very attractive value.
Score: 90
2014 Brooks Note Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.70, 140 cases,
$44. Rochioli and Wädenswil clones from the lower eastern blocks and RC clone from the western blocks. 10%
whole cluster. 3-day cold soak, native yeast start to fermentation, clones kept separate and blended before
bottling. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. Bottled March 2016.
·
Light reddish purple color in the
glass. Both savory and fruity aromas show up with a hint of sandalwood. Elegant and bright on the palate,
bursting with flavors of dark red cherry and berry. The fruit really locks onto the palate and holds on through a
very generous finish. Light in color and body, yet delivers a wallop of flavor, and has just enough fine-grain
tannins to deliver a compliment of textural interest.
Score: 92
Calera Wine, Hollister, CA
In the rush to find the latest producer, we forget about the icons who continue to produce Pinot Noir of
remarkable and consistent quality in California. As the Calera winery’s website notes, “Now more than 35 years
later and in spite of prevailing opinion that Pinot Noir grapes could not be successfully grown in the U.S.,
Calera is a symbol of perseverance and grace, and remains a true pioneer in California Pinot Noir.” The
vineyards are planted at an average elevation of 2,200 feet making them among the highest and coolest
vineyard sites in California. All Pinot Noirs are Calera selection, a reportedly suitcase selection of unverifiable
origin. All vineyards are organically farmed and certified by CCOF. Visit www.calerawine.com.
2013 Calera Ryan Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.63, 898 cases, $N/A. From a
13.1-acre vineyard that was planted in 1998 and 2001 in limestone soils. Yields .97 tons per acre. Native
fermentation. Aged 19 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple
color in the glass. Very earthy aromas of clay combined with black fruits and spice. Bold in size, with an array
of succulent purple fruits including grapes and boysenberries. Long and hedonistic in sap, with daunting
tannins and a big, fruit-filled finish. Tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle with
the same results, and I believe this wine needs at least two more years in bottle to be friendly.
Score: 90
2013 Calera de Villiers Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.45, TA 0.63, 1,018 cases, $N/A.
15.6-acre vineyard planted in 1997 in limestone soils. Yields 1.07 tons per acre. Native fermentation, aged 19
months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas
of cherry reduction sauce and blackberry jam lead to a mid weight plus style wine with a luscious core of purple
fruits. The fruit is extraordinarily bombastic but monotone at present. There are substantial tannins that need
time to integrate. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had
more oak and less fruit on the nose, but the lush mouthfeel was appealing. This wine is disjointed now and one
can only speculate about its future.
Score: 90
2013 Calera Reed Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.57, TA 0.64, 336 cases, $70. Sourced
from the 4.4-acre Reed Vineyard that was planted in 1975. Yields were 1.14 tons per acre. Aged 17 months in
French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled unfiltered.
·
Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas and
flavors of cherry, strawberry, blueberry and dark raspberry blend harmoniously with nutty oak in this mid weight
wine with more approachability. Impressive attack and persistent finish. When tasted the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle, the blueberry, cherry, spice and nutty oak flavors were captivating.
Easily recognizable as coming from Reed Vineyard.
Score: 92
2013 Calera Selleck Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., pH 3.39, TA 0.68, 327 cases, $N/A.
From the 4.8-acre Selleck Vineyard that was planted in 1975. Yields .93 tons per acre. Native
fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled unfiltered.
·
Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. Enthralling aromas of cherry, rose petal, white pepper and scrub
brush. Intriguing and complex, with flavors of well-spiced black cherry and black raspberry fruits along
with significant oak compliment. Plush on the palate with a very long finish. The tannins are firm but
not foreboding, the bright acidity keeps the fruit fresh, and the alcohol is well integrated. When tasted
the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, there was less oak overlay apparent and the
finish was other worldly.
Score: 94
2013 Calera Mills Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.48, TA 0.65, 789 cases, $62. From the
14.4-acre Mills Vineyard planted in 1984 in limestone soils. Own rooted Calera selection. Crop yield 0.81 tons
per acre. Native yeast fermentation, aged 17 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A very compatible blend of fruit and savory aromas with black
cherry standing out. Amazing charge of black cherry fruit on the palate, yet discrete in weight, with balanced
tannins and a raspberry coulis infused finish of notable length. Approachable now, but will surely last for years.
Score: 93
2013 Calera Jensen Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir
14.5%
alc., pH 3.53, TA 0.64, 1,088 cases, $88. From the 13.8-acre
Jensen Vineyard that was planted in 1975. Yields 1.12 tons per
acre. Native fermentation, aged 17 months in French oak
barrels, 30% new. Bottled unfiltered.
·
Moderately light cherry red
color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, rose petal, smoke and
toasty oak rise from the glass. Relatively light in color, but
substantial in flavor, featuring mid weight plus flavors of black cherry,
black raspberry and blackberry. The gorgeous fruit seems to last and last
and thoroughly illuminates the senses. There are still firm tannins that
need time to soften but the wine is hard to refuse at this early age. The
sensual mouthfeel adds even more appeal, and like all great wines, the
finish is grand.
Score: 94
2014 Calera Mt. Harlan Chardonnay
14.4% alc., 386 cases, $N/A. From Calera’s 10.4-acre Chardonnay
Vineyards. Vines planted in 1984 and 1998. Calera selection. Yield was 0.54 tons per acre. Barrel fermented
with native yeasts, 100% malolactic fermentation, aged 13 months in stainless steel and French oak barrels,
30% new.
·
Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of lemon, apple, seasoned oak,
buttery pear, and brioche. Fresh and mildly flinty, with a clean, brisk envelope of citrus, pear and apple flavors.
Sleek and balanced, with a refreshing, chalky finish. The wine picks up more body and charm over time in the
glass.
Score: 92
Dolin Malibu Estate Vineyards, Malibu, CA (wines vinified in Santa Maria)
2014 Dolin Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay
13.8% alc., pH 3.48, TA 0.62,
232 cases, $39. Whole cluster pressed and fermented in 33% new and 66% used French oak
barrels. 100% malolactic fermentation over 5 months, then left on the lees and stirred twice a month
during 15 months of barrel aging. Bottled unfined and filtered.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in
the glass. Lovely perfume of lemon, pineapple, nutty apple and vanilla creme. The flavors of crisp
citrus and pear along with saline notes drive this nicely balanced wine that displays good vibrancy
and flavor presence. Recommended and a good value.
Score: 92
2014 Dolin Malibu Estate Vineyards Malibu-Newton Canyon Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.71, TA 0.57,
187 cases, $39. Grapes were grown in the hills of Malibu at elevations of 1400 to 1800 feet above sea level.
Whole cluster pressed, fermented in 33% new and 66% used French oak barrels. 100% malolactic
fermentation over 5 months, then left on the lees and stirred twice a month during 15 months of barrel aging.
Bottled unfined and filtered.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Demure aromas of lemon oil,
applesauce, pear and oak are pleasing. A restrained, somewhat austere style, that is sleek and bright, featuring
shy flavors of citrus and pear. The wine lacks a bit of acidic verve.
Score: 89
Domaine Divio, Dundee, OR
This is a relatively new winery that opened in 2016, owned by winemaker Bruno Corneaux, the Director of
Viticulture and Winemaking at Northwest Wine Company (Soléna Estate and Hyland Estates), and business
partner André Weil. The estate vineyard, Clos Gallia, was planted in 2014 and is in development. Chardonnay
and Pinot Noir have been produced initially from sourced fruit. A tasting room is located in Newberg. Visit
www.domainedivio.com.
2012 Domaine Divio Eola-Amity Hills Oregon Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., pH 3.62, 150 cases, $48. Released
October 21, 2015. Clone 777, harvest Brix 24º. Aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 40% new.
·
Moderately
light reddish purple color in the glass. Toasty oak dominates the perfume, with added aromas of spice cake and
black cherry. Plenty of sappy purple and black fruits to satisfy with an appealing earthy bent. Plenty of oak at
play with a healthy tannic structure. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked
bottle, the wine was pleasant but not provocative, with oak playing a major role in its character.
Score: 87
2014 Domaine Divio Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.55, 250 cases, $28. Released
May 2016. Harvest Brix 24º. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 30% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple
color in the glass. The nose is quite woody, with aromas of soft cherry married to dominant nutty oak. Better on
the palate, yet somewhat shallow and woody with light to mid weight flavors of cherry and raspberry. Silky in
texture, with modest tannins and a little burst of cherry on the finish.
Score: 86
2014 Domaine Divio Ribbon Ridge Oregon Pinot Noir
13.7% alc., pH 3.65, 75 cases, $48. Released May
16, 2016. Sourced from Ribbon Springs Vineyard. Harvest Brix 23.5º. Aged 14 months in French oak barrels,
50% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Bright aromas of black cherry, almond and oak
lead to a mid weight core of appealing dark cherry, strawberry and black raspberry fruit flavors. The wine
displays tight acidity in harmony with good structure, an accent of oak vanillin, and a modest but satisfying
finish.
Score: 89
2014 Domaine Divio Chehalem Mountains Oregon Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., pH 3.62, 125 cases, $55.
Released November 16, 2016. Clone 667. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, spice, wood and sherry lead off. Upon entry there is an
intense attack of cherry and raspberry fruit flavors that persist with good length on the finish. Satiny in texture,
fresh and vibrant, with notable but not imposing tannins and a compliment of oak in the background. A thread
of savory herb flavor adds interest.
Score: 89
2015 Domaine Divio Willamette Valley Oregon Chardonnay
13.0% alc., pH 3.29, 150 cases, $50. Released
November 16, 2016. Harvest Brix 22.7º. Aged 12 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. Full malolactic
fermentation.
·
Light platinum yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of cut apple, Asian pear and cake
spice lead off. Pleasant, bright and clean, driven by apple and pear flavors with a little citrus and minor nutty
oak component. Soft in the mouth with spirited acidity. An interesting wine because of its emphasis on orchard
fruit rather than citrus fruit and its demure, slightly austere character with a mineral bent driven by acidity.
Score: 90
Lucia Vineyards, Santa Rosa, CA
These two wines represent future releases of Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands appellation cuvée wines grown and
produced by the Pisoni family. The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines contain fruit from Pisoni, Garys’ and
Soberanes vineyards. Release is planned for mid February 2017. Lucia wines are sold primarily through a
mailing list at www.luciavineyards.com.
2015 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 375 ml format tasted, around $45. A blend of
grapes from Pisoni, Garys’ and Soberanes vineyards. Native yeast fermentation and aging 10 months in
French oak barrels, about 50% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very inviting aromas of cherry,
red berry, exotic spice and warm brioche. Succulent flavors of red and purple berries with a welcome touch of
oak in the background. Elegant in demeanor, yet highly flavorful, with good drive in the mouth, juicy acidity and
a finish that lingers appealingly. An impressive appellation wine that is very easy to like at this young age.
Score: 90
2015 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.1% alc., 375 ml format tasted, around $45. A blend of
grapes from Pisoni and Soberanes vineyards. A combination of eight low-yielding Chardonnay clones, mostly
Old Wente selections. Native yeast fermentation, some modest whole cluster, and aged in carefully selected
French oak barrels. Aged 10 months in about one-third new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate
golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Leading off are aromas of yellow applesauce, pear, lemon oil and
buttered toast. Highly engaging, with delicious flavors of apple, pear, pineapple and lemon and a soft touch of
oak. Bursting with flavor, yet crisp and lively.
Score: 90
Mignanelli Winery, Sonoma, CA
You won’t find better quality Pinot Noir at these prices in California. See also recent reviews of this producer’s
KW Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir and Highlands Ranch Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot
Noir. Visit www.mignanelliwinery.com.
2014 Mignanelli Saveria Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., $39. Vineyard planted in
2000 in sandy, calcareous soils. Clones 115, 667 and “828.” 50% whole cluster. Aged in neutral French oak
barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is complex and
appealing, with aromas of cherry, rose petal, spice and bell pepper. Light to mid weight styled, with flavors of
cherry, raspberry and red grape as well as a vegetal and burnt tobacco note. Fresh, with good vibrancy, slick in
texture, with integrated tannins and a raspberry-infused finish. I like this wine, but the whole cluster inclusion
character is a tad overbearing and the burnt tobacco note is too prominent. A wine for whole cluster
aficionados.
Score: 89
2014 Mignanelli Nelson Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
13.4% alc., $36.
Vineyard planted in 1999 at 1700 feet elevation in sandstone rock and marine sedimentary soils.
Clones 115 and “828.” Native fermentation, 75% whole cluster, aged in French oak barrels, 20%
new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose
enthralls with aromas of black cherry, dark berry and spice. Noticeable attack and mid palate
presence of mid weight plus boysenberry and plum fruits that saturate the taste senses. The
density of fruit is evident and the high percentage of whole cluster really compliments this wine
creating textural fullness and interest as well as subtle floral and spice notes. The tannins are quite
modest and the wine has open arms even at this young age.
Score: 92
Migration, Duckhorn Wine Co., Hopland, CA
Migration offers both appellation and vineyard-designated Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from cool climate coastal
growing regions in California. The appellation wines are in wide retail distribution and represent excellent value,
while the vineyard-designated wines are sold through the website and the winery’s wine club at
www.migrationwines.com.
2014 Migration Bien Nacido Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., 310 cases, $68. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40%
new and 60% neutral.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely
perfumed with aromas of cherry, strawberry and spice. Light to mid
weight in style, with layers of dark red cherry, strawberry and raspberry
fruits accented with notes of tea and toasty oak. Delicious, with juicy
acidity and taut tannins, finishing with nuances of pine needle and Middle
Eastern spices. When tasted the following day from a previously opened
and re-corked bottle, the aromatics still soared and the finish was
remarkable.
Score: 93
2014 Migration Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 316 cases, $68. Released
September 2015. Sourced from three Dutton Ranch properties, all in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley.
A block and barrel selection of favorite Dutton lots and represents only about 7% of the total fruit obtained from
Dutton Ranch. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass.
Complex nose offering aromas of Bing cherry, strawberry, underbrush and a touch of oak. Silky in the mouth,
strutting a middleweight core of cherry cola, dark raspberry, black plum and baking spice flavors framed by
integrated tannins. Plenty of Russian River Valley luscious fruit in this polished wine. Unchanged when tasted
the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 91
2014 Migration Running Creek Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 206 cases, $68.
Inaugural release.I A Migration estate vineyard located on River Road, consisting of 70 acres and six clones of
Pinot Noir. A block and barrel selection including only about 4% of the vineyard’s grape output. Aged 10 months
in French oak barrels, 40% new and 60% neutral.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of
Bing cherry, spice and animale. Mid weight flavors of black cherry, blackberry and cola with a compliment of
oak backing. Noticeable attack with good mid palate presence and persistence. Forward drinking with a very
credible finish, although the wine leans a bit on oak. Unchanged the following day when tasted from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 91
2014 Migration Drum Canyon Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., 213 cases, $68. Vineyard
planted in 2003 by the Dierberg family and is located on the eastern edge of the Sta. Rita Hills. Aged 10
months in French oak barrels, 40% new and 60% neutral.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass.
Savory notes of leaf, oak and earth combine with aromas of cherry and clove on the nose. Light to mid weight
flavors of black cherry and blackberry have an earthy tone and are framed by dry, but not bitter tannins. Even
better the following day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, showing more spice and
exuberant fruit on the nose, and a more fruit-charged finish.
Score: 92
Patz & Hall, Sonoma, CA
Although Patz & Hall has been sold, master winemaker James Hall continues on at the winery. The
combination of focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, consummate winemaking skill and exceptional vineyard
selection has long defined Patz & Hall and its wines.
2014 Patz & Hall Burnside Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 315 cases, $75.
Released October 2016. This vineyard was planted by the Martinelli family and Patz & Hall has been making a
single-vineyard Pinot Noir from Burnside Vineyard since 2002. Clones 115 and 777. Wild and cultured yeast
fermentation, aged in 50% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Aromas of dark berry mash, spice and toast lead to a mid weight styled wine with
flavors of oak-infused blackberry and black grape with a touch of spice. A bit rugged and barrel-laden upon
opening with some astringency. Much better six hours later and also the following day when tasted from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle, showing less tannin and oak overlay and more charm.
Score: 91
2014 Patz & Hall Chenoweth Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 1,284 cases, $60.
Released October 2016. In 2000, famed viticulturist Charlie Chenoweth worked with James Hall to plant his
family’s homestead estate in the cool Green Valley sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley exclusively for Patz &
Hall (Chenoweth and a select few other wineries make wine from this vineyard as well). The 7-acre vineyard
has an assortment of Dijon clones planted in Goldridge sandy loam soils. The vineyard is a warm site in a cool
region. Wild and cultured yeast fermentation, aged in 70% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and
unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of compost, spice, dark chocolate and shy
fruit arrive slowly in the glass over several hours. Mid weight flavors of black cherry and black raspberry with
noticeable oak overlay. Very pretty fruit that has great intensity and length, becoming more appealing over
several hours in the glass. This is a wine to decant if you open now, or better yet, be patient and cellar it for a
few years.
Score: 92
2015 Patz & Hall Zio Tony Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.2% alc., 496 cases, $65. Released
October 2016. This is a well-known vineyard planted by the Martinelli family. Patz & Hall has produced a
Chardonnay from this vineyard since 2003. 100% Dijon 76 clone. Whole cluster pressed, indigenous yeast
fermentation, aged on lees with weekly stirring in 50% new French oak barrels. 100% malolactic fermentation
in barrel. Bottled without filtration.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas and flavors of
lemon, pineapple, yellow apple, melon and toasty oak combine in a full body styled wine that has a comforting
mouthfeel and admirable balance, finishing with a bit of tannin.
Score: 90
2015 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.2% alc., $40. Released September 2016. A blend of
grapes from multiple established vineyards including Dutton, Durell and Gap’s Crown, and young vineyards like
Mark Sanchietti’s Pleasant Hill Vineyard that was planted for Patz & Hall. Whole cluster pressed, indigenous
yeast fermentations, aged on lees with weekly stirring in 32% new French oak barrels. 100% malolactic
fermentation in barrel.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. This is a very crisp, uplifting and
agreeable wine offering fresh aromas and flavors of cut apple and pear, along with gracious integration of oak.
Spirited and easy to drink, with a clean, thirst-quenching finish.
Score: 90
TREOS Wines, Monmouth, OR
Partner, winemaker and winegrower Dave Jepson produces Pinot Noir in two styles (in his words): Elegant
Reserve that is “robust but complex and layered,” and Founder’s Choice that is “a bigger, bolder style.” The
wines are crafted from an estate vineyard in the southern Willamette Valley first planted in 2007. The 2013
vintage was set at a crop load of just 10 bunches per vine or about 0.75 tons per acre and the grapes were
harvested at full maturity before rains set in. As a result, the 2013 Pinot Noirs are unlike many 2013 Oregon
Pinot Noirs in that they are full bodied, rich and without rainy weather taint. The 2012 wines were last reviewed
2 years ago, and reviewed again recently, but the previous reviews were not read prior to tasting the 2012
wines again.
2012 TREOS Estate Elegant Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
15.0% alc., 170 cases, 500 ml., $48.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of a dark fruit medley lead to a mid weight styled
wine with ripe but not particularly sweet black fruit flavors. Fruit driven with little nuance, but delivers a
hedonistic fruit experience. Silky in the mid palate, with mild astringency on the fruit-intense finish.(Consistent with review of August 2014 with same score)
Score: 89
2012 TREOS Estate Founder’s Choice Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
15.5% alc., 195 cases, 500 ml., $48.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Sweet black fruit aromas with hints of port and cognac and
slight volatile acidity. Sweet, ultra ripe fruit flavors with soft tannins and integrated alcohol. Drinks more like a
dessert wine with the sweetness coming from fruit and alcohol, not sugar. Well-done in the intended style but
not my style. (This wine is less appealing to me now than when reviewed in August 2014 when it was
scored 88 and probably is not a long-lived wine)
Score: 86
2013 TREOS Estate Elegant Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 200 cases, $35.
Released November 2016. Five Dijon clone mix.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
Charming perfume of fresh cherry fruit and cedary oak. Impressive attack and length with a silky as
well as juicy character that is very easy to like. The mid weight core of boysenberry fruit is
complimented by a deft touch of oak and the tannins are finely tuned. Clearly the best wine to date
from this producer and a good value.
Score: 91
2013 TREOS Estate Founder’s Choice Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 125 cases, $35. Released
November 2016. 2 Dijon clones. The biggest, boldest, most “bad-ass” expression of Pinot Noir that Dave can
achieve. Targeted at consumers who like the body and texture of Rhone reds and Brunellos, while maintaining
the black cherry, dark plum flavor profile of Pinot Noir.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The sweetly
aromatic nose offers scents of dried cherry, plum, herbal tea and oak. Mid weight flavors of dark cherry, black
raspberry and savory herbs satisfy. Modest tannins and oak support the fruit load that displays good intensity
on the dry, but not bitter finish. Not as “bad-ass” as the 2012 version and more appealing to me.
Score: 88
More Wines
2014 Carlson John Sebastiano Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., $45. Winemaker is Chuck
Carlson, vinified in Los Olivos.
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Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. The nose is largely oak-driven
(sandalwood and smoky), with added cherry fruit and baking spice aromas. The palate is oak-charged, but
there is charming cherry fruit that is complimented by spice. The acidity and tannins are in harmony and there
is some generosity to the finish. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle,
there was considerable oak-driven notes of toast and cigar and the wine had lost some appeal for me.
Score: 86
2014 Cattleya Pratt Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.2% alc., 100 cases, $70.
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Moderately light
golden yellow color in the glass. A delightful wine that is very
polished and hi-collar. Aromas of citrus, pear and spice carry
over on the palate that adds integrated toasted oak flourishes
and an acid-driven minerality that further elevates the wine. This
wine has nothing out of place, is very easy to drink, and urges
you to search for nuance.
Score: 94
2014 Peirson Meyer Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.2% alc., 200 cases,
$55. Indigenous yeast fermentation and barrel aged for 14 months on the lees in about 40% new
French oak. Old Wente clone in Goldridge soil.
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Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass.
Appealing aromas of fresh cut apple, citrus, white peach, rain-dampened grass and nutty oak.
Wonderful parade of citrus, apple, pear and tropical fruit flavors that have uncommon length and
persistence. Slightly viscous in the mouth, thoroughly seamless, with a high-flying finish that tempts
the drinker to return to the glass. Special in every way.
Score: 95
2014 Purple Heart Wine Freedom Hill Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 500
cases, $38. Pommard and Wädenswil clones. Unfined and unfiltered.
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Moderately dark reddish
purple color in the glass. Uplifting aromas of blackberry, black currant and oak driven notes of hay,
popcorn and toast. Highly enjoyable on the palate, with a mid weight plus core of purple and black
berry fruits complimented by spice. Inviting roundness and harmony with deft oak management
and welcome overall balance. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and recorked
bottle, the wine still displayed a tasty marriage of dark fruit and oak. The wine is true to
Freedom Hill terroir and shows off the vineyard well. The dense, dark fruit stands up well to oak. A good value.
Score: 90
Bargain Wines
Note: I need to dip into inexpensive, “value-priced” Pinot Noir occasionally to re-set my palate since I taste so
many high quality, ultra premium Pinot Noirs.
2014 Austerity Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $15.70.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. I struggled to find much nose in this wine at all even over time in the glass, that offered only subtle whiffs
of purple berry, smoky oak and ash. Much better on the palate, with a mid weight charge of black cherry and
raspberry fruit flavors, combined with noticeable smoky oak in the background, displaying modest tannins, and
donating some intensity on the fruit-driven and mildly astringent finish.
Score: 84
2015 Castle Rock Kristy Vineyard Reserve Monterey Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $16.95. Cellared and bottled
by Castle Rock, Geyserville.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. An oak-dominated nose reminds me
most of the scent of cigar. Light to mid weight black cherry, cola and spice flavors. Innocuous, with silky
tannins, noticeable oak overlay and a modest cherry fueled finish. The oak treatment tends to smother the fruit.
and the wine fades in appeal over time in the glass.
Score: 82
2012 Chalone Vineyards Estate Grown Heritage Vines Chalone Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 2,836 cases, $26.
Vineyard is at 1800 feet elevation near the Pinnacles National Park. Reddish soil underlain with limestone.
Aged in French oak barrels.
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Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Very ripe fruited, featuring dried
plum and black cherry essence accented with vanilla, floral and apple core notes on the nose. Welcome mid
palate intensity and plushness, featuring highly ripened dark stone and berry fruits with a floral and oaky thread
in the background. Sappy, with balanced tannins and some finish. I expected more from heritage vines.
Score: 85
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