Tasting J. Rochioli Pinot Noir
In July 2005, I hosted a vertical tasting of 1992-2002 J. Rochioli West Block Pinot Noir at Mr. Stox Restaurant
in Anaheim, California. It was a spirited evening marked by celestial Pinot Noir attended by members of my
wine club, Le Grand Crew, composed of a number of luminaries including, John “Dookey” Maggiano, Ed “Big
Boy” Buckley, Art “Deep” Fries, Steve “Slide Rule” Dember, Chuck “Cereal” Keller, Mike “Cash & Carry” Cohen,
and Rene “Master Somm” Chazottes.
A number of general observations about the wines were agreed upon by most of those present. All the wines
had aged beautifully with no sign of appreciable oxidation. Some wines were distinctly better, but there were
no bad wines in the lineup. Aromatically, the wines offered fresh fruit aromas, an impressive mid palate attack
of luscious and deeply concentrated Pinot fruits, soft textures, appealing charm and impressive balance. The
younger wines were bigger with fresher fruit and a little more demonstrative oak. The one criticism of the
assembled that was leveled at the lineup was the short finish of the wines, a shortcoming that kept the wines
from being rivals of great Grand Cru Burgundy. Still, these were vinous treasures that made a lasting
impression. The following were my brief tasting notes that evening. The two food courses were grilled
Sonoma quail with duck confit on a roasted butternut squash puree and garlic reduction, and a rack of venison
with peppered Yukon Gold potatoes and black trumpet mushrooms.
1991: Alluring fresh aromas of strawberries. Impressive elegance. Astonishingly good for a 14-year-old
Pinot Noir. A bit delicate to meet the challenge of the food.
1992: Attractive fruity nose that exploded over time in the glass. A bigger style than the 1991 Williams
Selyem Rochioli Vineyard Pinot Noir also served in this flight. A fantastic complement to the
venison course. Several tasters put this wine in their top 2.
1993: Lovely wine, soft and supple. Shines with food. Some had this wine in their top 2.
1994: Fruit shy and finish shallow. Not particular distinctive.
1995: A clean and mellow Pinot Noir that was a very good food wine.
1996: The group favorite with and without food. A welcoming earthy nose led to complex berry flavors
highlighted by cinnamon. This cosmic wine had something deep inside that was striking.
1997: A funky (? Brett) and fruity nose with abundant flavors of ripe fruit and spice.
1998: Plenty of earth and tobacco made this Pinot Noir a bit different. Lovely finish. Controversial.
1999: A trace of TCA. Enjoyable, but a bit flat and even flatter yet with food.
2000: The ripest and oakiest wine in the lineup. A huge nose, a Hummer full of fruit. Some tasters had
this wine in their top 2 (Cab lovers).
2001: Funky nose and taste highlighted by sumptuous fruit and vanilla. One of the top 2 for a few.
2002: A young big boy with plenty of oak showing. A knock out with the food. A prodigy that should be
greased lightning in a few years. Many tasters had this wine in their top 2.
Recently I tasted a vertical of J. Rochioli West Block Pinot Noir 1997-2008 (2004 and 2005 are missing as I
expected to receive these two vintages in time for the tasting. They will become available soon and the results
added later). I also tasted a few vintages of J. Rochioli East Block Pinot Noir (2000, 2001, 2003, 2004), J.
Rochioli Little Hill Pinot Noir (1999, 2002, 2003), J. Rochioli Three Corner Pinot Noir (2001, 2002), and one
vintage of J. Rochioli River Block Pinot Noir (2003). Preceding my notes are Tom Rochioli’s tasting notes from
2010.
Some vintages of the West Block and East Block Pinot Noirs are spectacular. The wines age very well, easily
holding their own for over ten years. When the bottles are opened, a striking aroma waifs from the glass, and
the wines, while demanding your attention upon pouring, develop nuances and improve over time in the glass.
Decanting is advisable for all but the oldest wines. The wines reflect their origins from a relatively warm part of
the Russian River Valley (Middle Reach). They are packed with very ripe fruit but retain an appealing
freshness and elegance.
2010 Tasting Notes by Tom Rochioli
“Many of our customers have asked how the wines will age. The standard answer has been six to eight years
for our Pinot Noir to reach its peak. I am starting to think that this is the minimum. Many vintages can far
exceed the eight-year mark. I will cover the single-vineyard wines from 1999 to 2006. The wines have been
stored in a climate-controlled room at an average of 58 degrees and 70 percent humidity. I should mention that
wines in magnums are drinking much younger than the bottles. My guess at least a year. Also, every wine
seemed to evolve and improve after being opened for a while. Decanting is recommended.”
West Block
1999: Tasted March 2010. Starting to show its age with a slight brick edge but still has a deep red
color. Perfumed anise tea and red fruit combine with a long, almost sweet finish. This wine
aged nicely. Drink now to 2011.
2000: Tasted February 2010. Dark red with full developed aromas of rose petal, anise, cherry and oak.
The berry flavors are rich and the structure is sound and quite enjoyable. Drink now to 2011.
2001: Tasted March 2010. Dark red, with some signs of age. Sweet cherry fruit with the classic anise
aroma in the background. Little oak influence in the nose or mouth. Almost sweet fruit with firm
acidity and refined tannin. Drink now to 2011.
2002: Tasted June 2010. Dark red with little signs of aging. Ripe cherry aromas with slight hints of
vanilla. Full-bodied and medium tannin are combined with soft acidity. This wine still displays
signs of youth and should have a promising future. Drink now to 2012.
2003: Tasted June 2010. Lighter in color than the previous year but still on the dark side. A rich red
with a slight light brick edge. Sweet red fruits combine with rose petal and spice. The flavors
are sweet, balanced and ready to drink. Drink now.
2004: Tasted March 2010. Dark red with little signs of age. Nice aromas of black cherry, anise, smoke
and dried flowers. Full rich body and firm acidity that indicates future aging. This was a vintage
that was very ripe and extracted and may be one of my favorites. Drink now to 2010.
2005: Tasted September 2010. Dark red color with signs of purple. Ripe aromas of black cherry, anise,
and vanilla. Rich flavors of berries combine with a touch of oak that finish full and smooth. The
tannin is still showing its youth and the acidity is balanced. Although delicious now, it should
show well from 2011 to 2014.
2006: Tasted June 2010. Dark red color. Ripe cherry aromas with slight hints of anise and vanilla. Full-bodied and rich tannin are combined with soft acidity. This wine still displays signs of youth and’
should have a promising future.
East Block
1999: Tasted August 2010. Dark red with a slight brick edge. Ripe cherry fruit with a distinct terroir
quality from this unique site. Rich and full-bodied with some tannin and nice acidity. It is still
hanging on. Drink now to 2011.
2000: Tasted July 2010. Rich dark red with a slight brick edge. Ripe black cherry fruit with a distinct
earthy quality from the site. Rich and full-bodied with soft tannin and nice acidity. It is holding
up well. Drink now to 2011.
2001: Tasted August 2010. Dark red color. Dark berry fruit with the familiar herbal touch that early
East Block possesses. Rich flavors of berries with a touch of spice and vanilla. Long, full
mouthfeel that still has youthful acidity. Drink now to 2011.
2002: Tasted August 2010. Dark red color. Very rich cherry fruit with the familiar herbal quality East
Block wines possess. Rich flavors of berries with a touch of spice and vanilla. Long, full mouthfeel that still has firm acidity. Drink now to 2011.
2003: Tasted August 2010. Rich red with a brick edge. Ripe cherry fruit with a distinct herbal quality.
Ripe, rich and full-bodied with dry tannin and nice acidity. The wine is drinking well and should
be consumed now.
2004: Tasted June 2010. The same dark red as the West Block with the slight bricking on the edges.
Cherry, tobacco, and spice aromas that match well with the full ripe berry flavors. This is also
one of the top wines I have tasted. Drink now to 2012.
2005: Tasted September 2010. Dark ruby with no signs of age. Black cherry, tea, and the classic
herbal quality that leans more toward earthy than stems. Rich full mouthfeel with flavors that
persist with an almost sweetness. Firm acidity and graceful tannin. Drink 2011 to 2014.
2006: Tasted August 2010. Dark red color. Very rich black cherry fruit with the familiar herbal quality
with rich flavors of berries with a touch of spice and vanilla. Very youthful, this wine has a full
mouthfeel with firm acidity. Drink now to 2013.
Three Corner Vineyard
1999: Tasted August 2011. Lighter in color than the East Block. Still showing signs of age but with a
more floral quality than cherry. Anise, subtle oak is also in the aromas. Medium body with a full
rich finish. Drink now.
2000: Tasted February 2010. Fully developed with sweet cherry, earth and vanilla aromas. Slightly dry
on the palate with little tannin and nice acidity. Drink now.
2001: Tasted August 2010. Rich red color with a slight brick edge. Aromas of ripe fruit but more like
strawberries than cherry, vanilla and a background of potpourri. The rich berry flavors and crisp
acidity have a medium finish. Drink now.
2002: Tasted June 2010. Medium red in color. Perfumed aromas of cherry and vanilla. Medium-bodied with berries and cream with soft tannin and mild acidity. Very charming. Drink now.
2003: Tasted July 2010. Rich red color with a touch of brick on the edge. Cherry fruit pokes through a
complex array of aromas that include tea and spice. Medium-bodied, but the finish lingers with
soft tannin and acidity. This is typical of the vintage. Drink now.
2004: Not produced
2005: Tasted June 2010. Medium red color. Perfumed aromas of cherry and vanilla. Full-bodied with
berries and cream with soft tannin and mild acidity. Drink now to 2013.
2006: Not produced
Little Hill
1999: Tasted June 2010. Medium red in color. Spicy aromas of pepper combine with blackberries and
earth. The mature flavors are medium-bodied, with firm tannin and mild acidity. Drink now.
2000: Tasted June 2010. Dark red in color. Spicy aromas of cherry and pepper combine with berry and
earth flavors. Full-bodied with firm tannin and mild acidity. Drink now.
2001: Tasted June 2010. Dark red color. Aromas of potpourri, blackberries and earth. Rich and full on
the palate with firm tannin and mild acidity. The vineyard is starting to show well. Drink now.
2002: Tasted June 2010. Dark red color. Complex aromas of wet stones combine with black cherry
and earth. Full-bodied, with firm tannin and mild acidity. This vintage of Little Hill is holding up
nicely. Drink now to 2011.
2003: Tasted July 2010. Dark red color with some bricking. Aromas of wet stones combine with the
typical blackberry fruit of the vineyard. Medium-bodied with a long lingering finish with soft
tannin and solid acidity. This reminds me more of a 1er Cru Volnay than Russian River Valley.
Drink now.
2004: Tasted June 2010. Rich dark red color. Cherries and earth aromas with an underlying mineral
quality. Medium-bodied with rich tannin and nice acidity. This may be the sleeper of the vintage.
Drink now to 2012.
2005: Tasted June 2010. Dark red color. Complex aromas of ripe cherry and the usual mineral quality,
combine with rich berry flavors. Full-bodied with firm tannin and mild acidity. This vintage of
Little Hill is holding up nicely. Drink now to 2014.
2006: Tasted July 2010. Medium to dark red color. Minerals, ripe blackberry and spice aromas.
Medium to full-bodied with lingering flavors. The tannins are firm as usual and should age well.
Drink 2011 to 2012.
River Block
1999: Tasted June 2010. Deep red color with slight bricking. Aromas of ripe cherry and mint combine
with floral overtones. The tannins are apparent but soft and the acidity is brisk. Drink now.
2000: Not produced.
2001: Tasted March 2010. Deep red color with noticeable bricking. Aromas of ripe fruit and vanilla
combine with floral overtones. The tannins are soft and the acidity is still apparent. Should be
best to drink now.
2002: Not produced.
2003: Tasted March 2010. Deep red color with brick edges. Aromas of ripe cherry and tea combine
with floral overtones. The tannins have mellowed and the acid is soft. Drink now.
2004: Tasted June 2010. Deep red color with some signs of age. Floral aromas of ripe cherry, smoke
and vanilla combine with ripe berry flavors. Very elegant. This wine is aging gracefully and
should be consumed now to 2012.
2005: Not produced.
2006: Not produced.
Note: many wines below have a stated alcohol of 14.2% on the label, but I sense the honest alcohols are
higher than this. I did not have a copy of Tom Rochioli’s tasting notes when I sampled the following wines. The
West Block and East Block Pinot Noirs are clearly the class of the offerings. I should qualify my reviews with
the admission that evaluating older wines is different from rating newer releases and is often dependent on the
reviewers' predilection for aged wines.
2003 J. Rochioli River Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Very enticing with aromas of fresh
black cherries, spice, underbrush, shaved oak and sandalwood. Red fruits are
featured with some underlying earthiness and oak. Soft in the mouth with
supple tannins. A touch of heat on the finish. Very good.
1999 J. Rochioli Little Hill Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 200 cases, $50.
·
Moderate reddish-purple
color in the glass. Subdued fruit aromas with prominent smoky oak and horsey (Brett) notes. Medium
weighted core of dark red fruits that have fallen off and concede to the notable tannin, oak highlights and
earthiness. Drink up. Decent.
2002 J. Rochioli Little Hill Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Moderate reddish-purple hue in the
glass. Alive with black cherry fruit, spice and toast, picking up intensity with time in the glass. Fading black
fruits with underpinnings of earth, oak and anise. The structure supersedes the fruit with very bright acidity
(citrus peel) on the finish. Drink up. Good.
2003 J. Rochioli Little Hill Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Moderately light reddish-purple
color in the glass. Attractive perfume of cherries and berries with hints of oats, raisin, and coconut. Modestly
intense core of black raspberry, blackberry and black cherry fruit with a tarry, earthy bent. Fruit is on the riper
side. Well-proportioned tannic backbone, smoothly textured, ending with a little heat. Drink up. Good.
2001 J. Rochioli Three Corner Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Well-endowed
nose with many nuances including aromas of black cherries, cola, spice, cut
grass and oak. Delicious core of black cherry, black raspberry and black current
fruit of modest intensity with hints of earth and anise, persisting on the
somewhat lengthy dry finish. Holds up well over time in the glass, even
improving. Will last a few more years. Very good.
2002 J. Rochioli Three Corner Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Moderately dark
reddish-purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of cherry pie filling, forest floor, barnyard, oak and vanilla,
picking up intensity in the glass over time. Medium-weighted core of dark stone and berry fruits with subtle oak
and herb highlighting. Well-structured with fine-grain, soft-coating tannins and credible balance. Plenty of life
to go another few years. Very good (+).
2000 J. Rochioli East Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Very dark purple in the glass.
Very fruity upon opening displaying scents of blackberries, plums, earth and oak, becoming more savory in the
glass over time exhibiting aromas of wooded forest and mushrooms. A slight bit of Brett peaks out. Dense,
intense and darkly fruited with a complimentary note of savory herbs. The fruit is well clothed in fine-grain
tannins and lively acidity. Drink up. Good (+).
2001 J. Rochioli East Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Dark reddish-purple color in the
glass. Aromas of dark cherry tart, roasted nuts, Herbs de Provence and vanilla. Well-endowed with dense,
dark and voluptuous fruit with an underlying earthiness. Good underlying acidity and some persistence on the
fruit-filled finish. A bit blocky. Drink up. Good.
2003 J. Rochioli East Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2%
alc..
·
Moderately darkly colored in the glass. Gorgeous aromatics
offering hi-strung aromas of spiced cherries and black raspberries with a
complimentary floral and spice box note. Bright and persistent on the
palate while displaying a luscious core of perfectly ripe and earth-kissed
black cherries and berries encased in lively acidity. Very polished, classy
and harmonious. Still has a few years of life if well cellared.
2004 J. Rochioli East Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Dark reddish-purple color
in the glass. Shy dark fruits on the nose with savory aromas of herbs, wet bark and oak. Very tasty
essence of black cherries, intensely flavored on the mid palate, with notable persistence on the long
finish. The fruit veers to the ripe side but is irresistible in its racy quality. A striking wine that possesses
impeccable balance, old vine fruit pedigree, and seductive drink ability. Slightly better than the 2003
vintage and will drink nicely for another five years.
1997 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc.,
$60. Yield 2.75 tons per
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass
with a slight brickish rim. Aromas of brooding dark fruit, wood pile, underbrush,
anise and dark chocolate. Ripe fruit flavors of black cherries and plums with
accents of baking spice and anise. Still fresh in the mouth, displaying powdery
tannins and good acidity on the short finish. Definitely has an aged patina but
impressive for a 14 year-old wine. Fruit has begun to fade and intensity is the
least of all the wines to follow. Drink up. Very good.
1998 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 400 cases, $60. Yield 1.8 tons
per acre.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color with a slight brickish rim. Aromas of black cherries,
underbrush, leaf, mushroom, cardamon spice and sweaty horse (Brett). Medium-weight black cherry and
cassis flavors make an impression. Smooth in texture with mild fine-grain tannins and a moderately long finish.
Drink up. Very good (if you don’t mind a little Brett).
1999 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 400 cases, $65. Yield 1.6 tons
per acre.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Meager fruit on the nose but interesting aromas of
dried leaf, yeast, oak, char, sandalwood and old book. Woody and earthy, featuring black raspberry jam flavor
with hints of tea and cola. Concentrated and bold with tannins overshadowing the fruit. Improves in flavor over
time in the glass. A big-fruited wine that should be drunk up. Good (+)
2000 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 400 cases, $65. Yield 1.9 tons
per acre.
·
Dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Lovely aromas of dark berry jam, dried rose petals, leaf, oak
and exotic woods. Impressive attack of black cherry, blackberry and black plum fruit wrapped in sturdy tannins.
A charming wine with strikingly flavorful fruit (finesse with power) that persists on the long finish. Could last a
few more years. Very good (+).
2001 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2%
alc., 400 cases, $65. Yield 1.8 tons per acre.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple
hue in the glass. A nose you could drink with bright aromas of
cherry pie filling, roasted nuts, mocha and sandalwood. Very silky and
seductive on the palate with anise-flecked black cherry fruit that is vivid
and pure. Very fresh and alive with moderate tannin and impressive
finishing power. Will be impressive a few more years.
2002 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2%
alc., 400 cases, $70. Yield 1.8 tons per acre.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple
color in the glass. A bombastic perfume of spiced black cherries
leaps out of the glass when the cork is pulled. Scents of smoke, oak
and anise add interest. Luscious, full-bodied and broad in the mouth.
Blessed with delicious black cherry, baking spice, and Hoison plum
sauce flavors, with accents of earth, oak and tobacco. Soft and silky with
bright acidity, supportive tannins, and an ending Hollywood would be proud of
with memorable persistence of fruit on the dry, juicy finish. Even better later in
the day from an opened and re-corked bottle. Will last several more years if
properly cellared.
2003 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2%
alc., 200 cases, $70. Yield 1.0 tons per acre.
·
Moderate reddish-purple
color in the glass. Good aroma volume with scents of dark red berries,
crushed strawberries, cherries, earth and vanilla. Vibrant and fresh on
the nose. Similar to the 2002 vintage, but a little less extracted, a little
crisper and a little redder-themed in the fruit profile. Notes of earth,
rosehips tea and anise add interest. Like the 2002 vintage, a very long finish of
sweet plum is memorable. Aristocratic feel in the mouth with mild, firm tannins.
Picks up intensity and interest over time in the glass and better later in the day
from an opened and re-corked bottle. Balance predicts that this wine will
maintain its nadir for a few more years.
2005 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 400 cases, $78. Yield 1.8 tons per acre.
·
Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherries, bonfire, woodshed, tea leaf and herbs. Black-cherry driven, and seemingly a tad unripe, with a shallow mid palate, leaving behind a herbal and woody note in its wake. Atypical for West Block with the fruit lacking intensity and buried in oak and some tannin. May be an off bottle. Reserve judgment.
2006 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc..
·
Moderate reddish-purple hue in
the glass. Intense aromas of very ripe cherry and berry fruit initially, fading some over time in the glass with a
pruny note emerging and a slight bit of alcohol peaking out. A full mouth feel of sweet, dark Pinot Noir fruit
bordering on over ripeness. Slight oak and dried herbs add nuance in the background. Despite its heft, the
wine retains a commendable elegance. Bright acidity frames the finish which leaves a little heat in its wake.
Good. 2nd bottle tasted in 2012. Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose sports ripe dark red fruit
aromas with spice. Full mouthful of luscious dark red stone and berry fruit. Very polished with soft tannins,
faint oak, and a good cut of acidity on the finish. A charming wine that is seamless with impressive length on
the glorious finish. Very good (+).
2007 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5%
alc., $90. Yield 1.0 tons per acre.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in
the glass. Muted aromas of dark cherries and berries, oak cask, rose
petals and vanilla pod which unfold slowly in the glass. Incredible, mouth
coating dark stone and berry fruit, balanced with soft, sturdy tannins and
lingering appealingly on the aromatic finish. The wine is still tight, but
clearly, the fruit is perfectly ripe and the oak is beautifully integrated. This is an
amazing, off-the-charts Pinot Noir that in five to ten years will be the star of your
cellar. Figure out a way to get your hands on a few bottles of this beauty.
Spectacular later in the day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
2008 J. Rochioli West Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 200 cases, $100. Yield 1.4 tons
per acre.
·
Moderately light ruby red color in the glass. Reluctant aromas of Bing cherries and spice. Reddertoned
cherry and berry fruit with hints of savory herbs, red hard candy and sandalwood. Less extraction than
previous vintages, but still a beautiful wine that is more forward than the 2007 vintage and seduces with its soft
mouth feel. Ends with a tug of bright acidity and flavor of Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia. Very good.
