Fiftieth Anniversary Vertical Tasting
There are very few, if any, Oregon wineries that can call on such a vast library of wines to conduct a vertical
tasting of three varietals over five decades. Tasting older vintages in pristine condition is a unique opportunity
few people, either critic or consumer, have the opportunity to experience.
For old wines, it is not a matter of scores or comparative quality, but the realization that aged wine is unique in
the secondary characters and surprises it offers. As noted wine writer Hugh Johnson remarked, “Young wines
are exciting; old ones can be moving.” The wines in this vertical tasting are listed here with comments by Jason
Lett regarding their vintages and production. I have made no attempt to tantalize you other than to make some
general comments. I am trying to avoid displaying the smug attitude that I got to taste these but you didn’t.
If you do get to taste any of these older Eyrie wines, and some are for sale from the winery, I encourage you to
do so, for you can’t help admire their staying power and uniqueness. Modern drinkers of California Pinot Noir
may find difficulty in getting their arms around these wines which are light in color, delicate, often acid-driven,
with very subtle nuances. The wines also reflect their vintage origins more so than the case with California
Pinot Noir which tends to be more consistent, even more reliable, yet more uniform from vintage to vintage.
The Eyrie wines in this vertical tasting were remarkably fresh, highly pleasurable, and fascinating in their many
permutations. The older Pinot Gris wines were particularly fascinating since we often think of Pinot Gris as
most enjoyable when fresh and young, yet the older vintages tasted here offered an unusually complex array of
enticing aromas and flavors.
Flight One: 1970s
1977 The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Chardonnay
Picked October 17, Brix 23.2º, pH 3.26. Not for sale. From 4 rows of original
plantings. Cool spring with set in early July. September gave twice the normal amount of rain with gradually
cooling temperatures extending into October.
·
Pale golden orange color in the glass. Aromas of stewed apple,
nuts, and caramel. Apple-driven flavors slightly faded with very bright acidity and a dry finish.
1973 The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Chardonnay
Picked October 12, Brix 21.8, pH 3.43. Dry and relatively cool from April through
June. Moderating temperatures in August and slightly warmer in September with 3 inches of rain in the third
week. Cool until harvest.
·
Pale golden yellow color in the glass. Very delicate, with citrus, green apple and
roasted nut highlights, finishing bright and clean.
1976 The Eyrie Vineyards Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir
Picked October 29, Brix 23.5º, pH 3.60. 22 cases, never released. For sale.
Protracted coolness in September and October captured all the flavor possible for this vintage. In David’s
opinion, 1976 and 1975 were the best of the decade. Aged 3 years to soften tannins.
·
Light purple color with
slight bricking of the rim of the glass. A delightful wine with considerable charm remaining, offering an elegant
array of cherry, tobacco, tea and dried herb flavors framed by mild dry tannins, finishing with a bright, cherrydriven
finish that lingers.
1972 The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir
Picked October 4, Brix 22.5º, pH 3.53. Not for sale.
·
Light purple color in the glass
with slight bricking of the rim. A delightful aged wine with flavors of cherry, tobacco, tea and dried herbs.
Admirable elegance with mild dry tannins and a thirst-quenching finish.
Flight Two: 1980s
1983 The Eyrie Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris
Very pale salmon color in the glass. Delicious flavors of apple and pear,
Incredibly alive and vibrant with perfect balance and some finishing power. Amazing!
·
Very pale salmon color in the glass. Delicious flavors of apple and pear,
Incredibly alive and vibrant with perfect balance and some finishing power. Amazing!
1984 The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Chardonnay
Picked November 5, Brix 18.4º, pH 3.50. For sale. Extremely cool year with a damp
October. Miraculously, the grapes came into the winery warm and dry. 65% Eyrie vineyards. Chaptalized.
·
Golden orange color in the glass. Aromas of marzipan, sherry, nuts and vanilla wafer. Flavors of blood
orange, lemon and lime framed by a good cut of acidity.
1986 The Eyrie Vineyards Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir
Picked November 22, Brix 19.0º, pH 3.84. For sale. Not released previously.
Perfect bloom, warm to hot summer, rain in last two weeks of September causing some panic. Grapes picked
before and after the rains. The wine spent 18 additional months (30 months total) in barrel. Chaptalized a
modest amount to get sugars up to 22.0º.
·
Light purple color in the glass. Aromas of purple grape and spice
lead to rustic flavors of red and blue berries and red plum with an herbal vein in the background.
Complimentary oak, modest tannins, and a sweet finish filled with fruit.
1980 The Eyrie Vineyards South Block Reserve Pinot Noir
Picked October 17, Brix 23.4º, pH 3.62. For sale. Late bloom with
considerable rainfall in June. Warm summer with warmer than usual early October. Yields 0.8 tons per acre.
·
Moderately light purple color in the glass. Appealing scent of purple berries and spice. Demure but delicious
flavors of sweet plum and berry, brewed tea and a touch of floral goodness. Well-structured with some
finishing power. More pedigree than the Reserve.
Flight Three: 1990s
1991 The Eyrie Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris
Picked October 10, Brix 22.6º, pH 3.31. For sale. Extended ripening
season. 87% Estate.
·
Very pale salmon orange color in the glass. Very enticing perfume of tropical fruits,
roasted nuts and caramel. Good attack and palate presence with flavors of citrus, pear and apple. Very fresh
and vibrant with balancing acidity and a refreshing finish. Amazing!
1995 The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Chardonnay
Picked October 9, Brix 21.0º, pH 3.44. For sale. A good growing season with rain
at harvest.
·
Pale golden yellow color in the glass. Shy aromas of citrus and pear. More giving on the palate,
with flavors of lemon curd, Asian pear and green apple framed by balanced tannins and acidity. A subtle vein
of green herbs peeks out in the background.
1998 The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir
Picked September 30, Brix 23.8º, pH 3.50. For sale. Warm winter temperatures, late
spring rains reduced grape crops by 50%. Quality was outstanding but quantity was limited. First vintage after
college for Jason.
·
Light reddish purple color in the glass. Very floral perfume leading to flavors of cherry and
plum. Still quite fresh and even a little tight, with balanced tannins and noticeable citrus-driven acidity.
1992 The Eyrie Vineyards South Block Reserve Pinot Noir
Picked September 5, Brix 23.0º, pH 3.60. For sale. The hottest year
in Oregon’s brief viticultural history, including the warm 2014 vintage. Earliest harvest ever for Eyrie. The
challenge was preserving the elegance of the fruit in a year with a shorter ripening span.
·
Light reddish purple
color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with scents of black cherry pie glaze, strawberries and spice. Ripe flavors
of purple grapes, strawberries and boysenberries. Very elegant with bright acidity and inviting intensity and
length on the finish
Flight Four: 2000s
2004 The Eyrie Vineyards Original Vines Pinot Gris
Picked September 24, Brix 23.2º, pH 3.44. For sale. Very cool weather in
the season kept the crop relatively low, while a dry, hot summer put sugar levels higher than expected. Cooler
temperatures and a small amount of rain right before harvest helped to tame the sugars and promote flavor
ripeness.
·
Golden pink color in the glass. Inviting aromas of tropical fruits, grilled lemon and toasty nuts.
Impressive freshness and balance with tasty flavors of pineapple, banana and citrus framed by lively acidity.
2002 The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Chardonnay
Picked October 22, Brix 22.6º, pH 3.29. For sale. Perfect crop levels, warm and
dry summer. One of the Willamette Valley’s finest vintages.
·
Pale golden yellow color in the glass. Bright
aromas of lemon curd, creme brulee and Asian pear. Crisp and refreshing on the palate with vivid flavors of
citrus fruits and a subtle thread of leafy herbs. Well-endowed with acidity, the wine’s finish is clean and thirstquenching.
2005 The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir
Picked September 14, Brix 20.1º, pH 3.50. For sale. Dry winter, wet spring, uneven
grape set and modest yields of 1.5 tons per acre. Jason’s first vintage has the winemaker in charge at Eyrie.
·
Light purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry mash, herbs and tobacco. Mid weight flavors of black
cherry, ripe strawberry and the faintest oak with a touch of herbs on the finish. A bit austere. Sorry Jason, but
my least favorite Pinot Noir.
2007 The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Noir South Block Reserve
Picked October 5, Brix 23.1º, pH 3.44. For sale. Moderate weather
throughout the summer and fall. David’s final cuvée. He blended this wine shortly before he passed away, and
it was re-barreled for a further 16 months before bottling in 2010. Atypically, this wine included some whole
cluster inclusion.
·
Very light reddish purple color in the glass. Stem inclusion is evident in this wine with a leafy,
herbal note on the nose and palate. Very smooth and silky, with a core of red cherry and strawberry flavors,
picking up interest and intensity over time in the glass. Still young.
Flight Five: 2012 Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs
Five Pinot Noirs were bottled from the 2012 vintage each wine representing one of the five vineyards at The
Eyrie Vineyards. Each wine consisted of 100 cases. The wines show a little more modern slant reflecting changes in viticulture and vinification that Jason has instituted without undermining the original “Eyrie style.”
2012 The Eyrie Vineyards Sisters Vineyard Pinot Noir
Named after the three Pinot sisters: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Meunier. 4 acres
at 200’-360’. Planted in 1988-1989.
·
Light cherry red color in the glass. Scents of cherry and baking spice
leading to an impressive attack and finish. Bright acidity, with a hint of herbs and plenty of tart cherries on the
finish.
2012 The Eyrie Vineyards Outcrop Vineyard Pinot Noir
Formerly the Eason Vineyard now owned by Eyrie, named after an outcrop of
volcanic soil. 5 acres at 280’-360’. Planted in 1982-2002. Unknown clone, possibly Wädenswil 2A.
·
Light
reddish purple color in the glass. Darker fruits are featured with a subtle smoky, iron undertone. Balanced
tannins and easy to like now.
2012 The Eyrie Vineyards Rolling Green Vineyard Pinot Noir
5.1 acres at 540'-720'. Planted in 1989.
·
Light reddish purple color in the glass. Welcoming perfume of fresh black cherry and savory herbs. Delicious
mid weight black cherry core framed by healthy tannins and lively acidity. Amazingly generous and long finish.
A special wine.
2012 The Eyrie Vineyards Daphne Vineyard Pinot Noir
Named after friends. 1.5 acres of Pinot Noir at 820’-860’, one of the highest vineyards in the
Dundee Hills. Planted in 1974. Produced in 2001, 2008 and 2009 and 2012 vintages.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple
color in the glass. Complex nose featuring aromas of black cherry, Herbs de Provence, spice and iron.
Intensely fruity featuring a core of sweet blackberry fruit accented by earth and minerals, and a bold finish.
2012 The Eyrie Vineyards Original Vines The Eyrie Vineyard Pinot Noir
7 acres at 260’-410’. Planted between 1965 and 1985. Wines produced from
these vines were labeled Reserve until 2005 when the name was changed to Original Vines.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. Very savory, with considerable dried herbs and tobacco notes accented with core of
cherry fruit. Juicy with modest tannins and noticeable finishing length. Needs several years in the cellar.
Finale
Pinot Meunier Rosé Brut Nature Eyrie’s first sparkling wine and the first sparkling Pinot Meunier Brut Nature
produced in Oregon. This was created specifically for this occasion, but the process of creating this wine
began 6 years ago. In 2009, the highest elevation Pinot Meunier grapes were picked and pressed to provide
the founding base wine for the cuvée. The base wine aged 3 years in neutral barrel and became 40% of the
final cuvée. The 2009 was augmented with 60% 2011 Pinot Meunier, also aged in barrel. Tirage was
performed in January 2013, and the wine was aged in bottle for two more years before disgorgement in
January 2015. No sugar was added, thus the name “Brut Nature” or non-dosage style.
This wine is “cutting edge” in that Champagne that is drier than brut or sugar free is becoming more popular among consumers and more Champagne producers are reducing or eliminating the small amount of sugar, called le dosage added to the Champagne before the wine is closed with a cork. These trendy wines go by various names including non-dosé, ultra brut, zéro dosage, brut nature and brut zéro. To make this type of sparkling wine you must have a credible base wine, since you can’t hide flaws behind the dosage.
By the time this wine was poured, everyone present had had plenty to drink and the sparkling wine was toasted
with over and over until the glass was empty. No comments about the wine were recorded or are necessary
except to say it had an appealing light pink color, tasted of fresh strawberries and raspberries, and was a fitting
way to end one helluva celebration.
Visit the website at www.eyrievineyards.com for more information and to buy current releases from the 2010,
2011, 2012 and 2013 vintages. Inquire about library wines. Wine Club members receive a 15% discount on
current releases and $20 off library wine purchases. The Eyrie Vineyards tasting room in McMinnville is open
daily, 12:00-5:00. Rotating library wines are available for tasting.
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