Brooks: Passionate About Organic and Biodynamic Farming and Natural Winemaking
I wrote an extensive article on this iconic Oregon winery in 2016: www.princeofpinot.com/article/1858/.
Manager Janie Brooks Heuck and winemaker Chris Williams (since 2005) have carried on the legacy of
deceased founder Jimi Brooks admirably. The winery is known for its hospitality center that features multiple
venues for wine tasting as well as impressive food pairings.
For the winery’s 20th anniversary in 2018, the winery is hosting a number of special events and monthly
programming to celebrate those winemakers who donated their skill, time and passion after Jimi’s passing in
2004. “The Legacy Series” continues October 27 with winemakers Cheryl Francis and Sam Tannahill, the
people behind Rex Hill, A to Z Wineworks and Francis Tannahill. They will be pouring their wines at Brooks
Winery on that date. Check out the winery’s full calendar of events at www.brookswine.com.
The 2015 vintage was quite manageable in the Eola-Amity Hills where Brooks and many of its grape sources
are located. The season was marked by plenty of sunshine, drought conditions, a late-season heat wave and a
rain-free harvest. The result was wines of richness, that is, Oregon typicality turned up a notch. Tasters have
often used the words “showy” and “opulent” to describe the wines.
The 2016 vintage was similar to 2015 but had one of the earliest harvests on record. Early bud break and a
short heat spell at bloom condensed the flowering period resulting in a smaller fruit set. Summer had average
conditions with fewer heat spikes than the 2015 vintage. The harvested grapes showed good concentration
and high natural acidity.
2017 Brooks Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Rosé
14.0% alc., pH 3.32, TA 0.58, 3,000 cases, $20.
Grapes sourced from three vineyards where grapes were farmed specifically for dry rosé looking
for bright acidity and opulent aromatics. Fermented in stainless steel. Cross-flow filtered. (Note:
October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month and Brooks wants to do its part. For every bottle of this
wine sold in October, Brooks will donate $2.00 to the Susan G. Komen Foundation dedicated to ending breast
cancer)
·
Moderate
pink color in the glass. Lovely aromas of strawberry, guava, melon and white flower blossom.
Bright and fresh on the palate, with flavors of red cherry, strawberry, cranberry edible rose and a
touch of dry herbs. Soft and creamy in texture, with a thirst quenching, dry finish.
Score: 89
2016 Runaway Red Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.52, 2,245 cases, $23. A blend of
fruit from eleven vineyards. 100% de-stemmed, native fermentation, aged 10 months in French oak barrels.
Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderate garnet color in the glass. A straightforward wine with aromas of muddled cherry,
baking spice, boysenberry and toasty oak. Simple and agreeable, with mid weight flavors of black cherry and
sarsaparilla, and a conspicuous oak presence. Sleek and silky in the mouth with integrated tannins and good
vibrancy.
Score: 88
2016 Brooks Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.53, 2,000 cases, $28. 100%
de-stemmed, aged 10 months in French oak barrels. Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderate garnet color in
the glass. Conservative but pleasing flavors of darker berries, sweet oak and a floral intricacy. Light
to mid weighted in style, with gratifying flavors of black cherry and black raspberry. Very easygoing,
with silky tannins, juicy acidity a bit of toasty oak, and a suave mouthfeel. The overall impression is
one of harmony. A solid everyday Pinot Noir.
Score: 89
2015 Brooks Janus Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.55, 1,200 cases,
$38. The winery’s flagship Pinot Noir that is an expressive blend of multiple vineyards by
winemaker Chris Williams. 100% de-stemmed, native fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak
barrels. Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderately light garnet color in the glass. A righteous perfume of cherry
pie, raspberry coulis, blackberry reduction and toasty, sweet oak. Well-ripened purple and black
berry fruits with an oak background. Bright and silky in the mouth with crunchy fruit appeal. Much
more appealing when tasted several hours after opening. The fruit veers a little more to the ripe
side than I prefer.
Score: 90
2015 Brooks Big Cheese Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.40, TA
0.55, 100 cases, $48. Volcanic Jory and Nekia soils. Vineyard planted in 2008 to 777 and Pommard clones.
Average harvest Brix 24.0º. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels. Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderately light garnet
color in the glass. Aromas of seasoned barrique, mushrooms on the grill and dark berry mix. A mid weight core
of spicy blueberry and boysenberry fruits satisfies as does the fruit-driven finish. Silky in texture, with smart oak
compliment and appealing balance.
Score: 91
2015 Brooks Temperance Hill Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., pH
3.59, TA 0.62, 250 cases, $48. Vines planted in 1981 in volcanic Jory and Nekia soils and farmed organically.
40% 777, 31% Pommard, 29% Wädenswil. Average harvest Bris 22.5º. Native fermentation, aged 18 months in
French oak barrels. Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderate garnet color in the glass. Scents of cherry and oak-driven
nuts and spice. The discreetly concentrated core of blueberry and boysenberry fruits have up-front appeal and
length in the mouth. Good vibrancy, with sleek tannins and a juicy finish. A very balanced package from one of
Oregon’s most prestigious vineyards.
Score: 92
2015 Brooks Old Vine Pommard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.70, TA
0.50, 300 cases, $55. Vines planted in 1973 and 1974 in volcanic Nekia soil. Pommard clone vines
biodynamically farmed. Average Harvest Brix 23.5º. Native yeast fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak
barrels. Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Aromas of earth-dusted Bing cherry,
sandalwood and spice with a hint of volatile acidity upon opening. The luscious black cherry core makes an
impression as does the persistent finish. The texture is silken smooth by virtue of compatible tannins.
Considerably more enjoyable when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
This wine has a promising future.
Score: 92
2015 Brooks La Chenaie Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.25, TA
0.62, 125 cases, $48. Wädenswil clone harvested at 23.6º Brix. Native yeast fermentation, aged 18 months in
French oak barrels. Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Demure scents of purple
berry, black cherry, fertile earth and ripe fruit bin lead to a mid weight plus styled wine with a bountiful core of
black cherry fruit accented with nutty oak. Quite earthy, with a moderately firm tannic backbone, a satiny
texture and a finish filled with well-ripened fruit. More expressive when tasted the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 91
2015 Brooks Crannell Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.50% alc., pH 3.66, TA
0.59, $48. Vines planted in 1984 in volcanic Jory and Nekia soils. Pommard, 115, 777 and 667 clones. Average
harvest Brix 24.0º. Native fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak barrels. Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderate
garnet color in the glass. Haunting aromas of black cherry, spice and cedary oak. A savory earthiness and
woodiness underlines the essence of dark cherry and blackberry fruits. The firm tannins stick out on the
generously fruited finish.
Score: 89
2015 Brooks Rastaban Brooks Estate Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.54, 500
cases, $60. Vines planted from 1973 to 2001 in volcanic Nekia soil.
Pommard, 115 and 777 clones. Average harvest Brix 24.2º. Native
yeast fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak barrels. Cross-flow
filtered.
·
Moderately light ruby red color in the glass. This wine is slow to
give up its charms and was much better when tasted the following day
from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Really nice aromas of
cherry, strawberry and spice lead to a delicate and lacy wine that is
quite juicy and seductive. Mid weight flavors of black cherry,
pomegranate and hazelnut are framed by gentle but supportive tannins.
Forward drinking, with a lush texture, and impeccable balance.
Score: 93
2015 Terue Wines York Hill Vineyard Columbia Gorge Oregon Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.81, TA 0.54,
135 cases, $48. Cellared and bottled by Brooks Wines. Clone 667. Harvest Brix 25.3º. Native fermentation,
aged 18 months in French oak barrels. Cross-flow filtered.
·
Moderate garnet color in the glass. Appealing
aromas of ripe strawberry, raspberry coulis, spice and red licorice. The mid weight core of black cherry, ripe
strawberry, black currant, black tea, hazelnut and toast flavors is framed by muscular tannins that lead to an
astringent finish. Aromatically pleasing, but too much nutty oak and gruff tannins as well as a lack of acidic
verve on the palate. The balance is just a little out of whack. Unchanged when tasted the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 87
|
|
|
