Prodigal Wines: A Work in Progress

On my drive to the World of Pinot Noir recently, I stopped by the Santa Rita Hills to meet Stephen and Mary Russell, discuss their new wine label, and sample their wines. The name “Prodigal” comes from the career path that Stephen Russell has followed. His frank introduction to the wine world came when, after graduating from U.C. Davis with a degree in enology in 1960, he went to work at Gallo as their first formally-trained enologist. He quickly discovered that corporate winemaking was not his interest. He can wax humorously about his experiences at Gallo. He talks about Hearty Burgundy, the well known red wine composed of Zinfandel, Merlot, and almost anything else that was available at the time. The challenge was to make Hearty Burgundy taste consistently the same despite the fact that the types and sources of grapes varied widely with each vintage. Stephen’s claim to fame at Gallo is that he created a process for carbonization of Ripple!

After a failed attempt to purchase Freemark Abbey, Stephen left the wine industry and returned to school where he obtained his DVM and PhD degrees. He pursued a successful career in cancer research. More recently he advises researches about acquiring research grants from various sources.

In 2001, he decided to do something with his lovely wife, Mary, who had followed him about faithfully through the years. They bought a house and property in the southeast corner of the Sta. Rita Hills appellation, and Prodigal Wines was born. The “prodigal son” had returned, dedicated to capturing the essence of Pinot Noir. StmlImage: invalid literal for int() with base 10: 'thumb_paul_lato.jpg'
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The Russells have planted 4 acres to Pinot Noir (Dijon clones 667 and 777, and some vines from cuttings from Julia’s Vineyard in Cambria) and Pinot Gris (clone 146). The young vineyard, named Quinta Santa Rosa Vineyard, is managed by Jeffrey Newton and associates (Coastal Vineyard Care). The first vintage, 2005, was crafted with the assistance of local winemaker, Norm Yost (Flying Goat), and will be released in the spring of this year.

The three of us sat down at a dining table looking out over the valley and tasted through the 2005 wines and several barrel samples from the recent 2006 harvest. StmlImage: invalid literal for int() with base 10: 'thumb_paul_lato.jpg'
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Also tasted were barrel samples of 2006 667 clone in new oak, 2006 667 clone in neutral oak, 2005 667 from Rio Vista Vineyard, and 2006 Fiddlestix Vineyard 115 clone in new oak. The Fiddlestix was really impressive with gorgeous aromatics and gregarious fruit and spice. Happily, Russell will add this Fiddlestix wine to the 2006 Appellation blend. Russell is still evaluating sources in the Santa Rita Hills and his project is a work in progress. I was impressed by his wine knowledge and scientific background which should hold him in good stead. In addition, Mary is developing a sophisticated wine palate, and her contributions to blending decisions will be invaluable. The ultimate production goal is about 500 cases.

50 cases of estate Pinot Gris were produced in an Alsatian style. The wine was held on its lees in neutral French oak barrels for six months and then in stainless steel for an additional six months, also sur lies. The yeast autolysates have given it that Alsatian character. The 2005 vintage is very French in character.

Prodigal Wines will be available directly from the winery after the spring release. Prices and offerings will be posted on the winery’s web site at www.ProdigalWines.com. Those on the mailing list will be offered priority to purchase. Tastings are available by appointment by phoning 805-688-0476.