Pinot Briefs
—Newsletter 6.50
Going to the Seed In the last issue of the PinotFile, I discussed the intentions of Randall Grahm to
plant his new Pinot Noir vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains from seed rather than nursery vine stock
or vine cuttings. A fellow wine enthusiast, Mark Ryan, alerted me to an interesting article he read in
Alice Feiring’s blog (www.alicefeiring.com) that appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle September
21, 2007. Feiring’s article was on “out-of-the-way” bargains in Burgundy. One of the featured wineries
was Sylvain Pataille from one of Burgundy’s lesser appellations - Marsannay. Apparently the littleknown
(except to burgphiles) Pataille was a consultant for domains such as Roumier and Groffier before
launching his own winery in 2001. In one of his vineyards he planted from seed instead of cuttings
or clones and he farms organically and biodynamically. Apparently he is on track, for noted British
wine expert Clive Coastes once wrote that “Marsannay is not a serious wine,” but recently corrected
himself, “I wrote that before the arrival of Sylvain Pataille, whose wines rather contradict my point.”
Pataille’s 2005 Marsannay is available from Burgundy Wine Company in New York. The website is
www.burgundywinecompany.com.
Wine Lovers Meet It was only a matter of time before a dating site showed up on the internet for
people who share the love of wine. At www.wineloversmeet.com, a free dating site, people with a
common interest in wine can meet. The site touts the fact that those who delight in wine “are among
the most classy and sophisticated individuals within our society.” I am not sure about that claim.
Cloudy Bay Pinot Tasting The annual Pinot at Cloudy Bay tasting was held June 30, 2007 and
focused on the 2004 vintage. 137 wines from Burgundy, Oregon, Napa, Sonoma, Tasmania, Mornington
Peninsula, and New Zealand were included. All wines were tasted blind. The French did not fare
well in the tasting and blame was directed at the less than stellar 2004 vintage. Geoff Kelly, a New
Zealand wine correspondent and educator, attended the event (his full report is available at
www.geoffkellywinereviews.co.nz). He raved about the New Zealand Pinot Noirs, saying “Plaudits go
to the Kiwis. The best were not only vividly varietal, but interestingly Burgundian (in style) as well.”
Remember, he is a Kiwi. Geoff Kelly’s top wine was a 2004 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley
Pinot Noir. This particular wine made my First Team on the 2007 North America All-American Pinot
Noirs list (PinotFile, Volume 6, Issue 49). Other favorites included Pegasus Bay and Mt Difficulty Pipe
Clay Terrace from New Zealand, Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertain Les Champeux VV from
Burgundy, and then two more Kiwis, Craggy Range Te Muna Road and Cloudy Bay.
Wine Societies Wine Societies was founded in 2006 as a new online marketplace for wine lovers.
The site enables private collectors and enthusiasts to monetize their personal collections by selling or
auctioning vintage wines to wine retailers and wholesalers and simultaneously setting prices and informing
the market. Licensed wineries, retailers and wholesalers can have increased access to the
private collections of wine connoisseurs, wineries are be able to sell reserve and specialty wines to
wholesalers, and retailers can have increased access to wholesalers. Wine Societies has no subscription
fees, membership terms or contracts and joining is free with no obligation. To view the site go to
www.winesocieties.com. There are very few wines for sale or auction at present.
China Thirsts for Wine According to the Shanghai Daily, 90% of the wine drunk in China is local
plonk but as the economy rockets ahead and consumer spending power increases, wine lovers are
spending more on luxury wine. ASC Fine Wines in China is now the largest importer in the world of
Chateau Latour. In December, 2007, ASC opened The Wine Residence, a beautiful villa close to the
People’s Square for members to cellar their fine wines underground. Besides facilities for private tastings
and social functions, the building houses a gourmet restaurant, the Napa Wine Bar and Kitchen.