Siduri Wines Offers Something for Everyone in 2010
Adam and Dianna Lee seem like old hands at Pinot Noir, but it wasn’t that long ago (1994) when they released
their first wine. Adam was one of the first young hounds in the Pinot race and one of the first to produce a style
of Pinot Noir that was to become the model for many other Pinot Noir specialists to follow including Brian
Loring (Loring Wine Company), Andrew Vignello (A.P. Vin) and Michael Browne (Kosta Browne). Adam has
refined his winemaking style over the years, now producing wines with more refinement, more subtle and
complex flavors, and generally more reined in stylistically. His quote below says it all.
The Lees travel the state of California and Oregon sourcing grapes for their appellation-designated and
vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs and produce at least 16 different bottlings, surely unrivaled by any other Pinot
Noir specialist on the Pacific Coast. As if that were not enough, Lee also crafts a line of wines including Syrah
and other interesting varietals under the Novy Family Winery label. His time management skills are beyond
reproach and although several years ago I found some inconsistency due to the sheer number of wines
produced, he has mastered the challenge and the Pinot Noirs from his more recent vintages are dependable
and unfailingly solid throughout the product lineup. Siduri offers something of interest to everyone.
The 2010 appellation-designated wines are drinking beautifully now, and even some of the vineyard-designates
have appeal at this early stage because of their soft and silky textures and well-mannered tannins, but for the
full flavor experience, drinking is best deferred for another year or two for the vineyard-designated wines. The
aromatics, in particular, need more time to evolve in several of the vineyard-designated wines.
The 2010 vintage was a challenging one for California vintners. The growing season was cool until heat spikes
in August and September in some regions caused grape sugars to jump resulting in higher alcohols. The
protracted coolness also led to wines with higher acid levels than usual.
Lee crafts his wines in an urban warehouse winery in northwest Santa Rosa. The limited bottlings are sold
through a mailing list with some retail distribution of larger production wines. A very informative newsletter
keeps mailing list members informed of each group of releases. Tours and tasting are available daily by
appointment (707-578-3882 or vino@siduri.com). In 2010, Siduri was named “Sonoma County’s Best Winery”
by the San Francisco Chronicle reader’s poll.
2010 Siduri Chehalem Mountains Oregon Pinot Noir
13.1% alc., 1,592 cases, $30, screw cap. 100% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation. Sourced from 4 vineyards. Blend of Pommard, Wädenswil, 115, 667 and 777.
·
Light
reddish-purple color in the glass. Varied aromas including cherries, sandalwood, brioche, toasted oak,
underbrush and leather holster. Tasty red cherry core in a lighter, elegant style that has a slight confected tone.
Mild dusty tannins make for easy drinking. An Evesham Wood styled Pinot Noir that is very Oregonian. Good.
2010 Siduri Hawk’s View Vineyard Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.4% alc., 146 cases, $39, screw cap.
·
Moderate reddish-purple color in the
glass. Intense aromas of black cherries and spice with a subtle floral note.
Medium weight essence of black cherries lifted by bright acidity and framed by
supple tannins. Very appealing riff of cherries on the pleasing finish. Easily
approachable now. Very good.
2010 Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 1,940 cases, $30, screw cap.
·
Darkest
in color of the appellation wines and displaying the ripest fruit profile. Appealing aromas of plum
pudding and blackberry jam are echoed in the flavors with complimentary oak-driven mocha in the
background. Medium weight with a soft entry and exit and reserved tannins. Nothing is out of place.
Very good.
2010 Siduri Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc.m 496 cases,
$30, screw cap.
·
Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass.
Brooding aromas of dark red stone fruits initially, becoming more
charming over time in the glass. A nicely composed, balanced, and
flavorful medium intensity wine displaying a variety of flavors
including pie cherries, dark red berries, sassafras, herbs and tar.
Soft in the mouth with restrained tannins and some aromatic
persistence on the cherry and citrus toned finish. Very good.
2010 Siduri Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 910 cases, $30, screw cap.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple
color in the glass. The nose is not particularly appealing with very delicate dark red fruits primarily. An
earthy wine with a linear display of dark red and black Pinot fruits and a savory mushroom note. Firm tannins,
yet soft in the mouth. Slightly more expressive over time in the glass, but still lacks a distinctive crescendo.
Check back in 6 to 12 months. Decent.
2010 Siduri Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 96
cases, $50. Ripeness was a challenge at Hirsch Vineyard with lower
than normal crop size. Despite this, the resulting wine is quite alluring.
·
Light reddish-purple color in the glass. The aromatics are stunning with
bright aromas of cherry pie glaze, fresh berries, tea leaf and spice.
Perfectly ripe fruit offered in an elegant display of delicious dark red
cherries and berries with a hint of cherry cola. Silky with perfectly matched
tannins. Very appealing and quite approachable now.
2010 Siduri Sonatera Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 314 cases, $48, screw cap. Clones 667, 115, and 115. Native and cultured yeast primary fermentation, native MLF.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple hue in the glass. Aromas of dark cherry liquor, tea leaf, grass and old cask.
Medium bodied and smoothly textured with flavors of black cherries, black raspberries and dried cranberries
with a dry herb note in the background. Well-made but just doesn’t grab my full interest. Good.
2010 Siduri Ewald Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., 196 cases, $48.
·
Dense and
darkly colored in the glass. Aromas of ripe plums, mixed berry jam and oak. Intense core of black cherry and
blackberry fruit that hits the mid palate with guns blazing. Full-bodied and thick with moderate tannins, and a
riff of cherry skin and cirtus peel on the finish. Strap on your jock before attacking this big boy wine. Decent.
2010 Siduri Parsons’ Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., 197 cases, $45.
·
Dark reddish-purple
color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with vivid aromas of black cherries, black raspberries and exotic
spices. Big, bold and tasty with a full-on core of black cherry fruit with a sidecar of cola and Hoison sauce. A
good spark of acidity keeps the wine juicy and refreshing and this, along with the smooth mouth feel, makes
this wine a treat. Very good.
2010 Siduri Keefer Ranch Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 395 cases, $50. Six clones separately fermented and barrel
aged. The ultimate blend was 43% clone 23, 31% clone 114, 19%
clone 2A and 7% clone 777. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate
reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose features redder fruits with a
nice whiff of spice and sandalwood. Very typical for this vineyard with a
nicely spiced black cherry flavor, good crispness, and fine, dusty tannins. Oak
adds a complimentary accent. In two words, very charming.
2010 Siduri Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.2% alc.,
241 cases, $50.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose is closed for business with very
muted aromas of dark stone fruits and oak. Rather closed, uninspiring and earthy now with a linear display of
dark stone fruits in a medium weighted style. Nicely crafted with well-behaved tannins, a good acid spine, and
a silk and satin texture, but just isn’t offering much fruit flavor interest at this time. Cellar this one for a good
year. Good (+).
2010 Siduri Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.1% alc. 582 cases, $50.
·
Moderately
dark reddish-purple color in the glass. This wine is showing the most oak now both on the nose and palate.
Aromas of blackberries, boysenberries and coffee. Flavors of plum, dark berries, sassafras and cola with
some oak in the background. Very soft in the mouth with notable echo of scent and fruit on the finish. Needs
more time to integrate the oak but the core of fruit is gorgeous. Very good.
2010 Siduri Sebastiano Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., 148 cases, $48.
·
Moderately
dark reddish-purple hue in the glass. Aromas of oak, old book, tobacco and delicate red berries. Elegantly
styled on the palate with bright flavors of dark red berries and plum with an underpinning of toasted oak.
Seamless with pleasing intensity and sleekness, displaying a long, chewy finish. Needs time for complete
integration of oak and full enjoyment. Very good.
2010 Siduri Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 369 cases, $50.
·
Moderate reddish-purple color in the
glass. Rather nondescript nose offering aromas of forest floor and demure dark fruits. Darker fruited on the
palate with subtle oak in the background, displaying some very pretty fruit that is still introverted. Nicely crafted
and seamless with satisfying finishing acidity, but needs at least a year or two in bottle for full enjoyment.
Very good.
2010 Siduri Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 195 cases, $50.
·
Moderately light reddish-purple
color in the glass. Copious black stone fruits and black berries on the nose with hints of jam on toast, charcoal
and oak. Medium-weight core of dark Pinot fruits which are very expressive and attention-getting. Savory and
earthy in nature with a subtle smoky, tarry note in the background. Great potential here with further cellaring.
Good (+).
|
|
|
