Sips of Recently Tasted Oregon Wines

2014 Ayoub Memoirs Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $38. A blend of several select vineyards. Photo on front label was taken with winery owner Mo Ayoub, his father and siblings in 1964 on the beach in Beirut, Lebanon. Memoirs is a tribute to fond recollections of Mo Ayoub’s family. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nice harmonious blend of fruit and oak on the nose, with aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, mocha and vanilla. Good heft in a mid weight plus styled wine, with flavors of blueberry, black cherry and black raspberry framed by modest dusty tannins. Juicy, with a pleasing satin texture and a satisfying finish of good length. Still very appealing when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle the following day. Score: 91-92

2014 Ayoub ??? Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 280 cases, $55. Fruit sources intentionally concealed but come from three highly-regarded vineyards in the Dundee Hills. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of dark chocolate coated black cherry, toast and underbrush. The core of sweet boysenberry and blueberry-pomegranate fruit flavors is quite generous, flooding the mouth with fruit goodness. The ripe fruit veers to compote and is backed by vigorous tannins. There is plenty to like in this wine, but it needs more time in bottle to fully integrate the tannins and shed some oak overlay. Still a bit tight when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 88-90

2014 Ayoub Estate Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.50, 440 cases, $60. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. This wine is clearly an outstanding example of this vintage. Intoxicating aromas of black cherry, spice box, dark red rose petal and burnt tobacco. Revealing harmony with the first sip, this beauty is both elegant and silky on the palate, offering a mid weight array of black berry fruits supported by feathery tannins. Very giving at this early age. Even more striking the following day, when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, with an exuberant nose and enviable balance. Score: 93-94

2014 Cristom Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $30. Named after the second tallest peak in Oregon that was named in honor of President Thomas Jefferson, a personal hero of both Cristom founder Paul Gerrie and winemaker Steve Doerner. Made from a blend of grapes from each of the estate vineyards along with fruit sourced from neighboring vineyards. Stylistically consistent. Whole cluster fermentations with native yeast followed by 12 months aging in French oak barrels. Unfiltered. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Virtuous aromas of cherry, spice, rose petal and burnt tobacco. Light to mid weight in style, with bright flavors of red cherry, cranberry and red currant. Simple and straightforward in the characteristic Cristom style, with good attack, mouth presence, notable but silky tannins, and good intensity on the juicy finish. The most approachable Pinot Noir in the Cristom stable and an exceptional value. Score: 89

2014 Cristom Estate Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $50. A new bottling beginning in 2013 that represents the winemaker’s blend from the four single vineyard estate Pinot Noir sites. Whole cluster fermented with native yeast and extended aging in French oak barrels. Unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, red gumdrop, wilted rose and mulch lead off. Both savory and fruity, with a mid weight plus core of cherry, cranberry, spice, and herbal flavors. The fruit is less ripe in this bottling, offering a red spectrum, and is slightly tart. The tannins are well balanced, and the wine finishes with an acidic tang. Score: 90

2014 Cristom Estate Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Syrah

14.5% alc., 251 cases, $50. Sourced from 1.25 acres of estate Syrah, planted in 2001 by grafting over Chardonnay. The vineyard is the warmest on the property. Four Syrah clones are picked separately and blended together. First bottled in 2003 when it was the first estate grown and bottled Syrah in the Willamette Valley. A rarity, since only about 32 acres of Syrah are planted in the Willamette Valley. · Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of blackberry compote, leather and tobacco lead to a middleweight style wine that drinks like a Pinot Noir. Flavors of blueberry and blackberry are strikingly glorious and nicely spiced with a peppery note. Balanced fine tannins make for easy approachability and my only nit is a hint of alcoholic warmth on the finish. A wine like this makes you think that Oregon should be doing more with Syrah crafted in a cool climate style. Score: 92

2015 Cristom Vineyards Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Gris

14.0% alc., $20. Grapes planted in 1993, and this 5-acre vineyard is the only Cristom vineyard confined to sedimentary soils. Fermented in stainless steel tanks with no oak barrel exposure. The wine spends several months on its lees. · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Nicely appointed aromas of citrus, spiced pear, honey, vanilla and flint. Slightly viscous on the palate, with appealing flavors of pear, apple, lime and honeydew melon. Bright, clean and very Alsatian in character. I never get particularly excited about Pinot Gris, but this one piqued my interest. Score: 92

2015 Cristom Vineyards Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Viognier

14.0% alc., pH 3.48, TA 0.58, RS 2.4 g/L, 674 cases, $30 1.25 acres planted on the estate in 1993 by Paul Gerrie, based on the success Cristom’s winemaker, Steve Doerner, had in California at Calera with this varietal. This 1993 planting was a pioneering first for the Willamette Valley as was the first estate release in 1996. The original vines are planted at high density of 2,311 vines per acre in Columbia River basalt soils. Between 2003 and 2010, Cristom planted and grafted just over 2.5 acres of young Viognier vines making the total block 3.744 acres. Fermented in a combination of neutral French oak barrels and stainless steel drums with 2/3 of the barrels fermented with native yeasts. partial malolactic fermentation, aged on its lees in barrel after partial malolactic fermentation for 9 months. Minimal effective additions of sulfur. Lightly fined and filtered. · Very light platinum color in the glass. Inviting aromas of jasmine and other white flowers, pear, peach and tropical fruits. Delicious flavors of pear, apricot and pastry cream, with a hint of tropical fruit and nuts. Slightly creamy in the mouth, with impeccable balance, finishing with a lingering and refreshing presence. One of the New World’s best examples of Viognier. Score: 93

2014 Phelps Creek Vineyards “Corduroy” Columbia Gorge Pinot Noir Blanc

13.7% alc., 53 cases, $59. Dijon 115 from the Homestead Block in the Estate vineyard, as the first and highest acid pick of the season. Harvest Brix 23.3º. Fermented in oak barrel, 50% new, on the lees with battonage as needed. · Very light white pear color in the glass. Aromas of cut apple, pear, melon and warm waffle are fresh and appealing. Sleek on the palate with good verve, offering flavors of pear, melon, lychee, nutty oak, lees, and even a bit of lemon-lime that shows up on the finish. Easy to like, with a good cut of acidity on the finish and some length of appeal as well. The flavor profile is similar to Pinot Noir’s white brethren, Pinot Gris. One of the best examples of Pinot Noir Blanc from Oregon. Score: 90

2014 Phelps Creek Vineyards Columbia Gorge Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 892 cases, $34. Estate grown Pommard, 115 and 777 clones. Barrel aged in French oak, 15% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. This is an embracing wine, offering aromas of black cherry, raspberry, clove and burnt tobacco. Medium bodied, with noticeable depth of black cherry essence making an impression on the mid palate and finish. Lifted and lively, with a silky texture and supportive toasty oak, this refreshing wine offers immediate gratification but has enough backbone to please for several years. Score: 90

2014 Phelps Creek Vineyards “Beehive” Columbia Gorge Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., 117 cases, $38. Estate grown. Sourced from Dijon 777 block that was originally home to abandoned beekeeper boxes before vines were planted. Aged 20 months in French oak barrels, 20% new, 80% second-use. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Intriguing aromas of black cherry, cola, spice and forest floor hold up majestically over considerable time in the glass. Flat-out delicious and very showy, with a mid weight plus core of black cherry, spice, dark chocolate and cedar flavors. Both plush and smooth on the palate with balanced tannins, skillful oak management, and an incredibly glorious cherry finish. Even better when tasted several hours later from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Enjoy this one for for its exuberant cherry fruit now. Score: 94

2014 Phelps Creek Vineyards “Cuvée Alexandrine” Columbia Gorge Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., 416 cases, $54. Winemaker Alexandrine Roy selected the finest 15 barrels of wines made from estate fruit in 2014 for this wine. Harvest Brix 23.8º. Clones are Pommard, 115 and 777. Native yeast fermentation. Aged in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is remarkably complex, offering scents of dark red and black cherry and berry, rose petal, aged leather, and turned earth. A noticeable contrast to the “Beehive” bottling, with more structure, more savory and earthy facets, less flashy fruit, and slightly more oak contribution at this young age. A very sophisticated wine that is clearly built to age. The mid weight flavors of black raspberry and blackberry are set off by notes of spice and toast and emerge slowly in the glass over time. The finish is uncommonly generous as all great wines are. When tasted several hours later, the wine was more giving, indicating that it should be decanted if drunk now, but will benefit from more time in the cellar. Still evolving when tasted from an opened bottle two days later. Enjoy this one for its complexity and longevity. Score: 96

2015 Winter’s Hill Estate Watershed Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 1,500 cases, $25. Stemmed grapes were allowed to cold soak for 3 days before yeast inoculation. Aged 8 months in oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Discreetly concentrated, with cherry fruit at the core of the wine and a thread of leafy herbs in the background. There is compost and barnyard aromas upon opening with some fruit expression arriving later. The tannins are supportive, the acidity is brisk, and the herb infused cherry essence shows up on the finish with good intent. Score: 88

2014 Winter’s Hill Estate Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., 143 cases, $39. Stemmed grapes underwent a 3-day cold soak before yeast inoculation. The wine was aged 16 months in oak barrels. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, cranberry, strawberry and green herbs lead to a light to mid weight styled wine with flavors that echo the aromas. There is more power than the color would suggest, and the polished texture makes for easy drinking. Very forward, with deft oak management, and well-proportioned tannins. Quite typical of the Dundee Hills in character. Score: 90

2014 Winter’s Hill Estate Block 1 Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

12.7% alc., 44 cases, $49. This bottling is part of the Single Block Series began in 2006. Block 1 is part of the original planting in 1990 and consists of own-rooted Pommard clone. It is at a lower elevation and easterly exposed so it is a cooler block that is usually the last block of Pinot Noir harvested. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of cherry, cranberry and turned soil. A solid, but somewhat lean wine with pleasurable cherry and blueberry flavors infused with a savory thread of herbs. Nicely composed with good harmony and noticeable acidic verve. Score: 88

2006 Winter’s Hill Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

14.1% alc. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Great color of moderate reddish purple. Aged nose, offering scents of must, marzipan, cigar, decayed stump, seasoned oak and medicinal awareness. Modest in weight, with flavors of black cherry, root beer and white pepper. The fruit still has good freshness and intensity. Nicely balanced, with good length on the fruit-driven finish. The tannins are noticeable yet find their place among the ripe fruit flavors that hold on to a finish that exposes a slight hint of alcoholic warmth. Drink up.

2005 Winter’s Hill Vineyard Reserve Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 146 cases. The best six barrels out of forty in the 2005 vintage. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of cigar, old wood and leather vest lead off. More fruit expression on the palate, offering delicious mid weight flavors of black cherry fruit accented with brown spice and nutty oak. Surprisingly alert, lively and highly pleasurable, with modest tannins still in action. A terrific aged Pinot Noir that will please all pinotphiles. Drink now to 2020.

2015 Broadley Vineyards Zenith Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $30. One of the first 2014 Oregon Pinot Noirs I have reviewed. 30% whole cluster, aged one year in onceused French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely aromas of blackest cherry, dark rose petal, woodshed and nice barnyard. Impressive attack of black cherry fruit that sustains through the mid palate and finishes with a flourish. A little earthy and meaty with uplifting acidity. Structured, but not noticeably tannic. Still young, but like many ingenues, just starting to hint at predictable future success. Score: 92

2014 Dominio IV Rain on Leaves Stermer Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Oregon Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.55, 148 cases, $36. Released November 2016. Vineyard is surrounded by old growth Douglas Fir trees. Willakenzie silty clay loam soil. Harvest Brix 24.4º. Clones 777, Pommard and Wädenswil. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but very pleasing aromas of black cherry, spice and brioche. Very polished on the palate, in a mid weight plus style, offering delicious flavors of black raspberry, black cherry, plum and pomegranate. The wine has a strong backbone, yet the tannins seem to be fruit based and not bitter. The finish is notable for its generosity and glorious fruit persistence. This is quite an indulgent charmer and a great value to boot. Score: 93