Aged California Pinot Noir: Proceed at Your Own Risk
Most California Pinot Noir is ready to drink upon release, but may improve after a few years in bottle. It is the
rare bottling that takes on an ingratiating personality over the long term. Sommelier Lauriann Green-Solin
believes in the “20% Rule.” She says, “Only 20% of wines have aging potential past one or two years. Why?
Because they are not created with aging in mind. The winemaking techniques used for these wines favor
fruitiness and freshness, not extraction of the dry matter and tannins needed for a wine to age well
(polyphenols such as various tannins are natural preservatives that give wine the potential for a long life). They
may also lack the quality to stand up to aging. Only quality wines evolve into something more interesting than
they were in their youth.” Wines that are of poor quality when young will not be expected to improve simply by
cellaring them. A wine cellar is not a wine hospital.
Most California Pinot Noir is ready to drink upon release, and some will improve after a few years in bottle, but
most are not made for long term aging. “Improvement” depends on the preferences of the drinker and will only
be realized by those who like the effects of aging on Pinot Noir. Over time, the tannins become softer and
tertiary characters develop. The fruit loses freshness and becomes more dried in character. Vegetal aromas
often develop and floral, earthy and undergrowth characters may dominate. Poorly balanced Pinot Noirs may
show exaggeration of elements that were not harmonious on release, such as oak and alcohol as the fruit
fades. Faults in wine may also exaggerate over time.
Characters in Wine
Primary: Characters that are intrinsic to the grape are also known as grape variety characters. These aromas
and flavors often defy proper description in Pinot Noir which can display a blend of fruits ranging from red to
black. Primary characters should always prevail over secondary characters.
Secondary: Aromas and flavors due to alcoholic fermentation and maturing in oak barrels. Yeasts break down
sugar in grape juice producing alcohol and carbon dioxide gas, as well as minute amounts of other substances
known as the secondary products of fermentation. Secondary aroma depends on the level of sugar in the
grapes. The greater the quantity of sugar involved, the more intense the secondary aromas of alcoholic
fermentation. Examples are aldehydes (yeast, sourdough, bruised apple), esters (banana, nail varnish), fatty
acids (soap, candle wax) from primary fermentation and diacetyl (dairy, butter) from malolactic fermentation. A
large number of secondary characters may arise from oak barrel aging including toast, coffee, mushroom,
truffles, etc.
Tertiary: Also known as “bottle bouquet,” tertiary characters develop from aging through recombination of
esters and alcohols after alcoholic and malolactic fermentation are complete. Tertiary aromas are properly
called “bouquet,” whereas primary and secondary smells are best referred to as “aromas.” Typically, the aged
character consists of a bouquet and flavor profile of old wine cellar, undergrowth, tea, rose, tobacco leaf, mulch,
leather and dried fruit. Tertiary characters are the hallmark of aged Pinot Noir and are an acquired taste that
comes from experience. Few consumers age California Pinot Noir, so they don’t know what exceptional aged
Pinot Noir really tastes like, and whether it will turn out to suit their taste.
The title of this article, “Proceed at Your Own Risk,” refers to what wine writer Tim Patterson has pointed
out: "You can estimate how long a wine will live, but you cannot tell what the wine will smell or taste like.” It is
challenging to predict the future sensory profile, and even more challenging to predict whether you will like the
wine when it does age.
The unpredictability of the transformation of California Pinot Noir is complicated by a number of factors that
influence the eventual result: balance, acidity, tannins, whole cluster inclusion, type of cooperage and length of
oak barrel aging, typicality of region, cellar conditions, ABV, size of bottle and vintage.
My last extensive look at aged domestic Pinot Noir was in October 2016 when I reviewed 178 wines:
www.princeofpinot.com/article/1735/. I concluded that most domestic Pinot Noirs that are aged five or more
years are frequently drinkable, even enjoyable, but not as tantalizing as those wines less than five years of age. I pointed out that the taster’s palate will confirm or dispute this generalization as some domestic Pinot Noir
drinkers will undoubtedly prefer the nuances and tertiary characters that accompany well-aged Pinot Noir. My
advice was, “Far better to drink a domestic Pinot Noir too soon than too late.”
For this review of 42 aged California Pinot Noirs, I choose wines from four producers that I had acquired wines
from and cellared through the years. All wines have been perfectly cellared in my wine locker at least 6 years,
with little or no movement over the time of storage. All wines were closed with cork. I have kept the reviews
succinct and scoreless. I should point out that I have a bias for younger California Pinot Noir over aged
versions, but when you discover a truly great aged California Pinot Noir, it can be a near epiphanic experience.
Littorai, Sebastopol, CA
Littorai wines are known for balance and quality,, making them ideal candidates for aging. All wines produced
are also offered in magnum format that further enhances age ability. The B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Pinot Noir is
my favorite among the many excellent wines in the Littorai lineup. Cameron and Bridgit Thieriot bought the
property in the Western Sonoma Coast in 1988 and the first part of the vineyard was planted by the late
Warren Dutton. Subsequent plantings in 1994 and 1996 brought the total size to 8.5 acres of Pinot Noir (114,
667, 777 and Pommard) and Chardonnay (Old Wente, Robert Young). The site is located near the town of
Occidental across the street from Summa Vineyard. It is widely known as one of the premier vineyards in the
Sonoma Coast appellation. A divorce in the mid 2000s prompted the change in name of the vineyard from
Thieriot to B.A. Thieriot. Cameron now farms Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in the Santa Ynez Valley
and produces wines under the Thieriot Wines label.
Ted Lemon vinifies his Pinot Noir with a varying amount of whole cluster from none up to 60 per cent. After a
cold soak, the wines are fermented in traditional open-top vats and punch downs are by hand. All the wines
undergo native yeast fermentation and complete malolactic fermentation, as long as nature does not dictate
otherwise. Aging is carried out in 30%-50% new French oak barrels for 16-18 months.The wines have enough
flesh to be appealing when young, but show best after a few years in the cellar. Since Ted does not strive for
consistency, every vintage is unique and therein lies the charm. They are among the most age worthy
examples of California Pinot Noir.
2004 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.4% alc..
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color
with slight rim bricking. Sexy bouquet of leather, potpourri, dank cellar, sous-bois and dark fruits with staying
power in the glass. Still admirable attack and length in the mouth of well-spiced, and very ripe black cherry and
black raspberry fruits that have a slight roasted tone. Good lift, with silken tannins, complimentary oak driven
notes of pine, tea leaf and tobacco. This beauty still has some swagger. Drink now to 2022.
2005 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc..
·
Moderate reddish purple color with
very slight rim bricking. Plenty going on in this wine to attract your attention. The bouquet offers notes of dark
cherry, savory and other spices, cola, pipe smoke and wet brick. The mid weight black cherry and blackberry
fruit flavors are framed by noticeable toasty oak and there is also a vegetal riff. The fruit is a bit faded and dried
out but still enjoyable. Elegantly composed, with silky tannins, finishing juicy with tastes of cherry, green pepper
and oak. Drink now to 2020.
2006 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.9% alc..
·
Light cherry red color with very slight
rim bricking. Inviting bouquet of cherry, pie spice and sandalwood, fading a bit over time in the glass. Light to
mid weight styled with a delicious core of black cherry fruit engaged by immersed tannins. Excellent vibrancy,
gorgeous balance, and a sustained cherry-driven finish. Still enjoyable the following day from a previously
opened and re-corked bottle, but fruit was faded and oak was showing up. Drink up.
2007 Littorai B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.9%
alc..
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Somewhat muted
aromas of dark berries, black currant, chocolate wafer, vanilla and
sandalwood. Rich, concentrated and sappy black cherry and blueberry-pomegranate
fruit core with toasty oak in the background. Good acid
verve and plenty of structure to support the fruit load. About the same
when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked
bottle, with red (strawberry) and dark (blueberry-pomegranate) fruit and
baking spice flavors still lively. Drink now to 2023.
2008 Littorai B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.9% alc..
·
Moderately dark reddish purple
color in the glass. The nose lacks expression, offering only demure aromas of plum, black cherry, oak spice
and smoke. Guaiacol dominates the flavor profile with added black cherry fruit. Good tannic backbone and
lengthy finish. Enjoyment will depend on tolerance for smoke taint. (When a bottle was reviewed in December
2010, the smoke taint was not evident) Drink up.
2009 Littorai B.A. Theiriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc..
·
Moderate reddish purple color in
the glass. The bouquet reminds of a walk in the forest with added notes of black cherry and black raspberry.
Rather bold, with plenty of sweet, concentrated boysenberry and black raspberry fruit flavor. A note of star
anise and other spices add interest. Vigorous, yet lively acidity and balanced tannins. Notable richness of fruit
on the finish. Still remarkable the following day with copious amounts of fresh black cherry, blackberry and
spice flavors. Drink now to 2024+.
2005 Littorai The Haven Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc..
·
Moderately dark reddish purple
color with a brownish tinge and some rim bricking. Complicated bouquet featuring mocha java, wet mulch,
cinnamon toast, oiled wood, clove, and dark berry fruits. I found the nose very ingratiating. Mid weight flavors
of black cherry, blackberry, black tea and a prevalent earthiness. Still offering some fresh fruit that maintains
over time in the glass. Beautifully balanced, with a good acid tang and staying power on the finish. A real treat.
Drink now to 2022.
2005 Littorai Mays Canyon Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.7% alc..
·
Moderate reddish purple color in
the glass. The nose offers medicinal aromas along with hints of acetone, white flower bouquet and plum.
Fading and dry dark red berry and cherry fruit with noticeable tannin and barrel overlay. Still juicy, but not very
charming. Drink up.
2005 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.5% alc..
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. Deep bouquet of cherries, grilled beef, smoke, mocha java and oak spice. The mid weight flavors of red
cherry, red currant, baking spice and nutmeg attract, as does the silk and satin mouthfeel. Very fresh and like
able, with excellent harmony, gentle tannins, and welcome intensity of oak-kissed fruit on the sustained finish.
Drink now to 2022.
2006 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.2%
alc..
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Fresh bouquet of
cherry pie, rose petal, compost and toast. Flat-out delicious black cherry
and black raspberry core. Elegantly composed in a light to mid weight
style, with impressive attack, expansion and amazing long finish. Added
tertiary notes of earth, fig and dried cherry bring joy. Juicy and vibrant.
An exceptional, even amazing, aged Pinot Noir that was the most
outstanding wine in this tasting of ten aged Littorai wines. Drink now to
2022.
Note: I did not focus on aged California Chardonnay in this review but did sample two older Littorai
Chardonnays. My experience over the years tasting many examples of aged Littorai Chardonnay and the
delight with these two 2005 examples, indicates that Littorai Chardonnay ages extremely well, and can be
exceptional if the minds of drinkers that prefer the tertiary characters that come with aging. Chardonnay lacks
the polyphenols that are critical for aging red wines, but higher acidity in Chardonnay can function as a
preservative.
2005 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.2% alc..
·
Moderately light copper color.
Bouquet of dried apricot, roasted macadamia nut, bruised apple, agave syrup and yeast. Nicely balanced, with
flavors of grilled pineapple, roasted nuts, caramel, and even botryitized white wine. Fantastic in a California
style. Drink up.
2005 Littorai Mays Canyon Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.9% alc..
·
Moderate golden
yellow color in the glass. Bouquet of grilled lemon, smoky toast, old book and woodshed. Delicious flavors of
lemon curd, well-ripened pineapple, dried apricot, apple and Nutella. Slightly creamy in the mouth with
impeccable balance and some finishing length. Also fantastic in more of an Old World style. Drink now to 2020.
Paul Lato, Santa Maria, CA
Since 2002, Paul Lato, a former sommelier, has been crafting stellar Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay from
Santa Barbara County vineyards at Central Coast Wine Services in Santa Maria. He is a fan of the late Henri
Jayer of Burgundy, and the older styled wines of Williams Selyem, and in step, he de-stems all of his fruit
(except in Syrahs). The alcohols are relatively high, not always due to high Brix at harvest, but in part due to
the level of humidity in the winemaking facility that concentrates the wines. That said, the fruit tends to the ripe
side. Cold soaks are often up to 8 days, fermentations are somewhat warm, and the wines are gently fined with
egg whites and bottled unfiltered. His goal is always balance and elegance.
Based on this tasting and previous samplings, the wines hold up best in the 8 year post vintage time window.
2007 Paul Lato “Sine Cera” Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 125 cases,
unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. An aged bouquet of dried dark cherry, prune, vegetation,
leather boot and oak. Flavors of roasted fruit and raisin backed by nutty oak. Sleek in the mouth with immersed
tannins and noticeable oak on the somewhat generously fruited finish, but the fruit is beginning to tire and fade.
Drink up.
2008 Paul Lato “Sine Cera” Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 125 cases,
unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Love the bouquet of cherry, spice, sandalwood,
nuts and leathery oak. Charming in the mouth with silky tannins and inviting flavors of black cherry and
sassafras. Beautifully balanced, with subtle oak involvement, and an appealing finish redolent of black
raspberry fruit. Drink now to 2022.
2009 Paul Lato “Sine Cera” Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 125 cases,
unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Bouquet of cardamom spice, tobacco, cigar
smoke, mulch, wood shop and black cherry leads off. Lush in the mouth, with a charge of well-ripened dark red
and purple fruits framed by modest tannins. Generous and persistent dry, but not bitter, finish. Silky and elegant
and very pleasing, but there is slightly intrusive oak overlay. Drink now to 2022.
2008 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 100 cases,
unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The bouquet of black cherry, exotic spices, toast
and nutty oak is initially enjoyable, but notes of prune and band-aid appear over time. Plush and rich on the
palate, with a charge of black cherry and blackberry fruits and added flavors of tar, marzipan, and black tea.
The tannins are well integrated and the finish is lengthy. Most appealing when first opened. Drink up.
2009 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 100 cases,
unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Well-sustained bouquet of cherry, mashed berries,
spice and savory herbs. Redder fruit in this vintage with an accent of herbal tea. Bright and somewhat crisp,
with balanced tannins, complimentary oak treatment, and a long finish. Delightful! Drink now to 2022.
2010 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., 75 cases,
unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The bouquet offers a significant contribution from oakdriven
aromas of spice and burnt tobacco, but there is added appeal in aromas of Bing cherry and rose petal.
A middleweight styled wine, with a black cherry core accented with smoke and toast. Silky tannins with an
elegant impression, singing with a deep and lasting finish replete with cherry and raspberry fruits. Drink now to
2022.
2011 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 75 cases,
unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of black cherry, herbs, earthy flora
and eucalyptus. Quite silky in the mouth, with a mid weight attack of black cherry and blueberry-pomegranate
fruits and subtle oak barrel accents. Inviting harmony and polish with an appealing but not exceedingly long
finish. Drink now to 2022.
2009 Paul Lato “Suerte” Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., 200 cases, unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple
color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with a bouquet of black stone and
berry fruits, dark rose petal, potpourri, toast and spice. Mid weight plus
styled and slightly creamy on the palate, with a big gulp of boysenberry
and blackberry fruit. Still fresh with enough tannins and fruit to balance
the high alcohol for further evolution. Drink now to 2024+.
2009 Paul Lato “Algeria” Hilliard Bruce Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 100 cases,
unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Inviting bouquet of dried cherry, burnt tobacco, grilling
spices and tea leaf. Fruit-driven, with a core of black raspberry and blackberry fruits with subtle accents of
spice, herbs, earth and oak. Has more aged tertiary character than the 2008 vintage. Gratuitous texture with
good fine-grain tannic bones. Drink now to 2020.
2009 Paul Lato “Seabiscuit” Zotovich Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 75 cases, unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is initially quite complex, offering a bouquet of black
cherry, spice, brioche, forest floor, and salinity. Fresh and invigorating upon opening, but fading slightly over
time in the glass. Impressive harmony and elegance with nothing sticking out, offering flavors of black cherry
and purple and black berries. Well-proportioned tannins, with notable fruit persistence on the finish. Drink now
to 2022.
WesMar Winery, Sebastopol, CA
The Pinot Noirs from WesMar (“Wes-Mare”) are fashioned in a style reminiscent of the original Williams
Selyem wines. This not surprising since proprietors and winemakers Kirk Hubbard and Denise Selyem both
learned winemaking at Williams Selyem when Burt Williams and Ed Selyem were at the helm. They still use
retired rectangular open-top milk storage tanks that go back to the early days of Williams Selyem. The winery is
a garagiste operation, working out of a small warehouse in a former apple processing plant on Gravenstein
Highway in Sebastopol. Kirk and Denise do all the work themselves as there are no employees. Their
operation harkens back to a simpler time in the wine industry when consumers visited wineries by appointment,
got personal attention and learned to bond with owners, and bought the wines directly from the source.
Fermentation in the open-top stainless steel milk storage tanks (pictured below) allows good access for hand
punch downs and better skin to juice extraction due to the generous horizontal rather than vertical dimensions
of the tanks. Whole cluster ranges from 20%-40%. depending on the vintage and a number of other factors.
This allows for enhanced aroma and flavor nuances as well as age ability, yet preserves early drink ability that
many consumers prefer. Fermentations typically last 7-10 days after which pressing is done with a vintage
bladder press once used for apples. Pinot Noirs are aged in 50% to 70% new Francois Frères oak barrels for
11 months. The entire winemaking process is gravity flow as WesMar owns no pumps. The wines are usually
bottled unfined and unfiltered.
I sampled a number of Pinot Noirs from the 2005 and 2006 vintages in 2010: www.princeofpinot.com/article/
970/, and the wines performed well overall. This tasting offers some wines with additional age and the results
would lead me to drink the wines at younger ages, although the magnums held up better.
2005 WesMar Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.4% alc..
·
Dark reddish purple color with
slightest bricking of the rim. Bouquet of black raspberry, damp oak, old sock and slight acetone. A funky wine
on the palate, with mid weight plus musty flavors of strawberry, black cherry and black raspberry framed by firm
tannins, ending with some length. Drink up.
2009 WesMar Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc..
·
Dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Deposits in the neck of the bottle. Aromas of acetone, sweet smoke and horse. Full-bodied flavors of
black raspberry and blackberry with a carry over of the horsey note. Silky tannins, with some finishing fruit
presence. Oxidative character overwhelms.
2010 WesMar Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.3% alc..
·
Dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Slightest hint of oxidation (acetone) recedes. Fruit never shows up on the nose, but seasoned oak does.
Much better on the palate, with flavors of blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate. Good harmony in a wine
offering prodigious sweet fruit, balanced tannins, good freshness, and some length on the finish. Drink now to
2022.
2007 WesMar Balletto Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc..
·
Moderate reddish purple color with
very slight rim bricking. Bouquet of sweet smoke, burnt tobacco, tea leaf, spice and brioche. Still offers plenty
of spiced cherry goodness, with admirable harmony. The tannins have melded, and the wine finishes on a dried
cherry note. Still enjoyable the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Drink now to 2022.
2008 WesMar Balletto Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc..
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color
in the glass. Oxidized aromas of nail polish remover and apple core. Disjointed in the mouth, with flat black
cherry, Dr. Pepper, and unpleasant vegetal flavors, mild fine-grain tannins, and a bitter finish. An unsuccessful
bottle that is now defective.
2009 WesMar Balletto Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.9% alc..
·
Dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Bouquet of ripe dark stone and berry fruits with some oak as well. Full-bodied and luscious on the palate
with flavors of blackberry and spiced plum. A big gulp of fruit with well-matched tannins. Drink now to 2020.
2006 WesMar Oehlman Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc..
·
Light cherry red color with
mild rim bricking in the glass. The bouquet offers notes of dried cranberry, pipe smoke, white pepper and straw.
Light to mid weight in style, with a black cherry core accented with notes of white pepper and herbs. A very
elegant wine, with delicate, silky tannins, and somewhat faded, shallow fruit. Drink now to 2018.
2007 WesMar Oehlman Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc..
·
Moderately light cherry red
color with slight bricking of the rim. The bouquet unfolds nicely over time in the glass, revealing a perfume of
red cherry, spice, burnt tobacco and sandalwood. On the lighter, delicate side, with pleasant flavors of red
cherry and cranberry framed by silky tannins. A charming wine that doesn’t jolt the senses, but has pleasing
qualities. Drink now to 2020.
2008 WesMar Oehlman Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc..
·
Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Fresh berry fruit shows up right after opening, but fades over time when the bouquet
is dominated by aromas of cola, seasoned and spicy oak, leather, dried cherry and earthiness. The juicy mid
weight cherry core is oak infused and clothed in modest tannins. More fruit sap than the 2006 and 2007
bottlings and a little more structure, but I still prefer the 2007 wine. Drink now to 2022.
2003 WesMar Piner Ranch Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., Magnum.
·
Moderate
reddish purple color in the glass with no rim bricking. Aromas of compost, worn leather, toasty oak, rose petal,
black cherry and bruised apple. Very enjoyable, with mid weight flavors of sweet black cherry, blueberry and
blackberry, black tea, tar, cola, tobacco and allspice. Good rich richness backed by balanced tannins and some
intensity on the finish. Drink now to 2020.
2005 WesMar Vintners Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., Magnum.
·
Moderately lightreddish purple color with slightest
rim bricking. Intriguing aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, old book,
damp oak, earthy flora, and cigar smoke. Noticeably fresh mid weight
flavors of black cherry, black currant, Crimini mushrooms, and tobacco.
The wine has great appeal with a good acid verve and finishing
presence, although the fruit is slightly dry and the wine finishes with
slight astringency. This Pinot has definitely earned its Reserve badge.
Drink now to 2022.
2009 WesMar Oehlman Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., Magnum.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. The bouquet is quite charming initially, showing aromas of cherry, cola, and
spice, but oak takes over with time in the glass and the fruit fades. A harmonious and juicy wine with a plush
mouthfeel, offering ripe fruit flavors, particularly black cherry and blackberry, underlain with oak seasoning.
More faded the following day with little fruit pleasure when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked
bottle. Drink now to 2020.
Windy Oaks Estate, Corralitos, Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
Proprietor and winemaker Jim Schultze announces his wines with, “All estate, all gravity, all the time.” The
Schultze Family vineyard is 15 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay situated at 900 feet above Monterey Bay in
Corralitos, at the southern end of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. He tries to do the most he can in the
vineyard and the least he can in the winery. Most fermentations employ 50% wild yeast and are lengthy, lasting
30 to 45 days. 25%-30% whole cluster inclusion is the rule since the stems from his site are often ripe. Jim is
obsessive about his cooperage, and travels to Burgundy each year to meet with coopers. He uses 3-year-old
air-dried, tight-grained, French oak barrels exclusively. Typically, he ages Pinot Noir for 17-27 months in 35%
new oak barrels, with larger percentages used in certain bottlings. His winery has all the accoutrements for Pinot
Noir production including a basket press and a modern bottling line. His approach to vinification of Pinot Noir
lends itself to age ability, and the results of this tasting confirm this.
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvée Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
14.3% alc.,
unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate brown tinged reddish purple color in the glass. This wine was pretty
interesting upon opening but faded quickly. Aromas of spice, pine oil and worn leather led to some faded
flavors of black cherry, burnt tobacco and spice. Elegant and silky, with immersed tannins and some drive on
the finish initially. Drink up.
2006 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvée Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
13.9% alc.,
unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate brown tinged reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with a
bouquet of rose petal, exotic spices, stem and sous-bois. Good vibrancy, with appealing flavors of black cherry,
raspberry and spice. Silky on the palate with a juicy finish. This wine has held up remarkably well, but begins to
fade over time in the glass. Drink up.
2008 Windy Oaks Estate Limited Release Wild Yeast Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
13.9% alc.,
unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
Complex bouquet of dark red cherry and berry, woodland spice, rose
petal, marzipan, vanilla and stem. Very tasty core of middleweight cherry
fruit with impressive mid palate intensity and remarkable persistence.
Subtle tertiary notes of tea, root beer, chocolate and mushroom. Inviting
harmony, with a silky mouthfeel and an appealing freshness. The fruit is
not dried out at all. Enjoy this now through 2025.
Final impressions after this retrospective tasting of aged California Pinot Noirs:
1. Vintage differences become more apparent as Pinot Noir ages.
2. Although alcohol is a preservative, it can intrude on an aged wine as fruit fades. In the case of the wines
tasted in this review, the wines were in balance and alcohol never reared its head with aging.
3. There are more disappointments than epiphanies in aged California Pinot Noir generally.
4. Well-aged Pinot Noir can surprise when first opened, but tend to fade over time and may not provide a
special drinking experience over the course of a meal.
5. Oak creep can be evident in Pinot Noir over time, tending to be more apparent as fruit fades in proportion.
6. Faults or defects can be more apparent in wines over time.
7. 47% of the Pinot Noirs tasted that were ten years or less out were still drinking well and should
last through the near or mid term.
8. 19% of the Pinot Noirs tasted that were ten years or less out were still enjoyable but should be drunk in the
short term.
9. 24% of the Pinot Noirs tasted that were ten years or less out were drinkable or even enjoyable now but
should be consumed now.
10. 10% of the Pinot Noirs suffered decrepitude or were defective. There were no instances of cork taint but a few
wines had oxidized characters.
11. Most Pinot Noirs that were tasted beyond ten years of age were at or near the precipice.
12. Speaking in general terms with few exceptions, I would not cellar most California Pinot Noir beyond 5 to 7
years and certainly not beyond 10 years unless you like to gamble or find interest in well-aged characters.
13. No one can accurately predict a Pinot Noir’s apogee. As winemaker Zelma Long noted, “The truth of wine
aging is that it is unknown, unstudied, poorly understood and poorly predicted.” Do not be encumbered by
worrisome thoughts about how long to cellar a domestic Pinot Noir. Just pop the cork when you feel like
drinking a wine. It is the gospel truth that it is better to drink a domestic Pinot Noir too early than too late.
Better to revel in the joy of youthfulness than the decrepitude of old age.
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