PinotFile: 10.44 December 13, 2016
- Final California Wine Reviews of 2016
- Final Oregon Wine Reviews of 2016
- The Lowdown on Trader Joe’s Pinot Noir
- Pinot Briefs
- 2017 International Pinot Noir Celebration
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Final California Wine Reviews of 2016
December is an ideal time to buy Pinot Noir as many wineries are offering Holiday discounts including price
reductions on 6 and 12 bottle purchases and free shipping. I wanted to get these reviews published so the
wineries could be considered in your December buys. It is often advisable to call the wineries personally and
discuss your needs as this interaction can lead to the most generous discounts.
Albatross Ridge, San Francisco
The Albatross Ridge 25-acre vineyard is located just seven miles from the Pacific Ocean in Carmel Valley at
1,250 feet elevation with limestone and shale soils. The site is cool and windswept with degree days falling
below the upper threshold for the coolest Winkler Region I winegrowing designation (annual growing degree
days from the estate vineyard are between 1650 and 1950 GDD). The result is a very long growing season
allowing the grapes to achieve ripe flavors even at low Brix.
2014 Albatross Ridge Estate Reserve Carmel Valley Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., pH 3.64, 300 cases, $55.
Harvest Brix 22.0º-23.0º. Yield 1.25 tons per acre.15% whole cluster. 4-day cold soak, long, cool fermentation
in small open-top tanks. Multiple individual native fermentations involving four clones of Pinot Noir spread over
eight unique blocks. The majority clone is “828,” with additions of 777 and Pommard clone. Aged 11 months in
French oak barrels, 33% new. A selection of the finest barrels of the vintage. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens quickly to reveal aromas of purple berries and
sous-bois. Exquisitely balanced and unctuous on the palate, with nicely ripened flavors of black cherry and
boysenberry. Very polished, with seamless tannins, and a thread of dried herbs that adds a savory note.
Score: 92
2014 Albatross Ridge Estate Carmel Valley Chardonnay
13.0% alc., pH 3.29, 280 cases, $55. Clones 96
and 15. Yield 1.25 tons per acre. 100% whole cluster pressed and native barrel fermented on the lees with no
lees stirring or racking. 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 25% new.
·
Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Exuberant aromas of citrus, warm brioche, spice,
nutty oak and sea breeze. Beautifully crafted with spot on balance, offering flavors of citrus, Bartlett pear, apple,
subtle oak and a hint of salinity. The sustained finish is particularly notable.
Score: 93
Anaba Wines, Sonoma
The first wines from the new Anaba winemaker team of Ross Cobb and Katy Wilson are being released. Ross
and Katy joined Anaba in 2014 and work at the winery in Carneros. The Pinot Noirs have taken on a noticeable
elegance.
2014 Anaba Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.61, 1,215 cases, $42. A blend of three
vineyards in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley AVA along with two others in the Sonoma Coast that
overlaps with the Russian River Valley. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Harvest Brix 24.1º.
Clones are Pommard, 115, 777, 667, “828,” and 9. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, fermented separately
by clone, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 30% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass.
Deep aroma of fresh cherry pie and nutty oak. Light to mid weight in style with appealing elegance and
balance. Very approachable darker cherry flavor with a deft touch of oak spice. A bit shallow on the attack and
mid palate.
Score: 88
2014 Anaba Las Brisas Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.64, 180 cases, $48. This
vineyard is owned by Francis Mahoney, one of the most influential figures in Carneros Pinot Noir. Harvest Brix
24.1º. Clones are Swan, 667 and 777. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, each clone fermented separately,
aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 30% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed
with aromas of black cherry and spice. Elegant in demeanor, with light to mid weight juicy flavors of black
cherry and black raspberry with an earthy underpinning. Impeccable balance, with a modest oak-kissed finish.
Score: 89
2014 Anaba Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
13.6% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.61, 887 cases, $36. A blend of grapes
from three vineyards: the Anaba J McK Estate Vineyard, Denmark Vineyard and Dutton Ranch (Mill Station and
Shop Block). Harvest Brix 23.9º. Whole cluster pressed before barrel fermentation. 60% malolactic
fermentation. Aged 17 months in French oak barrels, 20% new.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the
glass. A generous wine with good spirit, offering aromas of honeyed pear, buttery lemon tart, crème brûlée and
ocean air. Flavors of lemon creme, melon, blonde caramel and nutty oak aim to please and the uplifting citrusdriven
finish is highly refreshing.
Score: 92
Alma Fria, Holtermann Family Wines, Healdsburg
After three generations in wine imports, the Holtermann family planted new roots in the remote ridge tops of
Annapolis on the Sonoma Coast. The small-production wines are sold primarily through a mailing list at
www.almafria.com. Alma Fria is pronounced “ai-mah-free-ah.”
2014 Alma Fria Plural Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.1% alc., 325 cases, $40. Native fermentation, aged 12
months in French oak barrels, 10% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in
the glass. Inviting aromas of strawberry, cherry and the slightest oak. Light to mid weight flavors of black
cherry, strawberry, baking spices and seasoning oak backed by integrated tannins and some noticeable
intensity on the finish that has good cut. An early drinking wine with attractive finesse.
Score: 89
2014 Alma Fria Holtermann Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.1% alc., 140 cases, $62. Vineyard
planted in 2002 in Annapolis at 700-800 feet elevation. 10% whole cluster. Native fermentation, aged 12
months in French oak barrels, 20% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. I really was intrigued with the nose that offered scents of cherry, blackberry, bourbon and spice box. Both
fruity and savory on the palate in a middleweight style. Fruit flavors of black cherry and raspberry interplay with
savory notes of forest and herbs. The wine becomes more expressive over time in the glass.
Score: 92
2014 Alma Fria Doña Margarita Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., 195 cases, $62. Vineyard planted in 2002 in Freestone at
400-625 feet elevation. 10% whole cluster. Native fermentation, aged 12
months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasant
aromas of cherry, red berry, sandalwood and rose petal. Elegantly
composed and nicely balanced, with light to mid weight flavors of cherry,
grape, boysenberry, spice and cedary oak. Very giving now, with
gossamer tannins and a finish filled with spiced fruit goodness.
Score: 92
2014 Alma Fria Plural Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
13.5% alc., 175 cases, $40. Native fermentation. Aged
14 months in no new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Very light golden yellow color and
clear in the glass. The complex nose offers aromas of lemon, cut yellow apple, marzipan, vanilla creme and
sawdust. Lush in the mouth yet rather delicate and easy going with a good cut of acidity well immersed.
Flavors of citrus including grapefruit and lemon stand out.
Score: 91
Black Kite Cellars, Santa Rosa,
Tom and Rebecca Green Birdsall offer Estate Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs made from the Kite’s Rest Vineyard,
as well as small lot bottlings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from similarly expressive vineyard sites in the
Sonoma Coast and Santa Lucia Highlands. These Black Kite Cellars fall releases are available through the
winery website at www.blackkitecellars.com and wine club, as well as through distribution in select wine shops
and restaurants nationally.
2014 Black Kite Cellars Kite’s Rest Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., 1,254 cases, $50.
Clones 114, 115 and Pommard. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 33% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple
color in the glass. Aromas of dark cherry and berry and spice with plenty of oak chiming in harmony. Well
ripened mid plus style wine with flavors of black cherry, coffee and toast. Structured with a very appealing silky
texture and not too warm. The mouthfeel is the best feature, but there is too much oak overlay for full
enjoyment.
Score: 89
2014 Black Kite Cellars Redwoods’ Edge Block Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 193 cases, $60.
Clones 114 and 115. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 66% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. The nose opens slowly with swirling offering aromas of black cherry and baking cocoa. Deeply flavored
dark, dark black cherry and spice framed by fine-grain tannins and integrated oak. The silky texture appeals
and the wine finishes with juiciness and extended length.
Score: 91
2014 Black Kite Cellars Stony Terrace Block Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., 193 cases, $60.
100% Pommard clone. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 66% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. Aromas of piquant coffee grounds and black cherry. The mid weight plus core of darkest cherry,
boysenberry and blackberry fruits are framed by firm tannins. Similar to the River Turn, but more vibrancy and
more tannin. The lasting finish reveals some subtle alcoholic heat.
Score: 90
2014 Black Kite Cellars River Turn Block Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., 193 cases, $60. 100%
Pommard clone. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 66% new.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Moody aromas of dark cherry and berry, dark chocolate, barbecue and oak. Full bodied, with a luxurious
core of velvety-textured purple and black berry fruits. A ripe, hedonistic wine, with edgy tannins that fit in and
balance nicely the prodigious fruit.
Score: 91
2014 Black Kite Cellars Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., 572 cases,
$50. Pisoni selection. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color
in the glass. Blackest cherry, ripe strawberry and toasty oak drive the aromas and flavors in this mid weight
styled wine. Plenty of oak plies the nose, even the following day when tasted from a previously opened and recorked
bottle. The dreamy texture captivates, the tannins are soft, and the finish aims to please.
Score: 90
2014 Black Kite Cellars Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., 120 cases,
$50. Pisoni selection. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. Seasoned oak and dark fruits combine in an inviting perfume. Fruit-driven, with a luscious core of lip
smacking blackberry and red and black raspberry fruits. The copious fruit and alcohol adds a bit of sweetness
and a velvety mouthfeel. Assertive dark fruits embellish the finish that leaves a hint of alcoholic warmth in its
wake.
Score: 90
2014 Black Kite Cellars Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., 292 cases, $60. Dijon 777 clone. Aged 10 months in
French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. The beguiling nose offers scents of black cherry, raspberry coulis
and a hint of toast and vanillin. Nicely structured with round shoulders,
this wine features overreaching flavors of black cherry, black raspberry,
and dark chocolate supported by bright acidity and fine-grain tannins.
Easy to like, finishing with a burst of chocolate-covered cherry flavor.
This wine just seems to stand out.
Score: 92
Byron Winery, Santa Maria
Byron has returned to its original focus on small lot Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara’s best vineyards and in 2014
include the first releases from the Sta. Rita Hills appellation. Individual rows and blocks are selected to express
the site. Jonathan Nagy is the winemaker. Byron wines are available through the Los Olivos tasting room,
mailing list and website at www.byronwines.com. I found the oak treatment a bit heavy handed in this wines
that are otherwise blessed with gorgeous fruit. Some of the wines have been downgraded because of the
heavy-handed oak.
2014 Byron La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 277 cases, $55. Clone 777. Aged
16 months in French oak barrels, 42% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry,
anise and pungent herbs reaching more expression over time in the glass. The mid weight core of earthy black
cherry and blackberry fruits are embellished with herbal oak. A savory wine, with modest, balanced tannins and
a revealing satiny texture that attracts interest. I tasted this wine over and over and just couldn’t find compelling
delight.
Score: 87
2014 Byron Rita’s Crown Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., 295 cases, $65. Clone “828.” Aged
15 months in French oak barrels, 46% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry
and subtle oak leave a good impression. Mid weight flavors of dark red cherries and berries with a very
appealing expression of cherry fruit, especially on the finish. The tannins are silky, there is good acidity, and the
oak offers subtle seasoning. A highly respectable wine that can be enjoyed now but will last in the cellar.
Score: 93
2014 Byron John Sebastiano Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 349 cases, $55. Aged 16
months in French oak barrels, 45% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Boastful black
cherry fruit aromas are shy but appealing. Oak-kissed flavors of black cherry and boysenberry are elevated
with juicy acidity. Discretely concentrated, with a silky mouthfeel, and some notable fruit engages on the finish.
Score: 92
2014 Byron Julia’s Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., 342 cases, $45. Pommard 4 clone.
Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 39% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is
dominated by oak-driven scents of coffee grounds and toast. Much more appealing on the palate, with mid
weight flavors of dark red cherries and berries and heavy accents of oak toast and spice. Forward drinking and
nicely balanced with sleek tannins, yet oak currently plays too big a role for me in this wine. Still replete with
oak-infused black cherry flavor when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 87
2014 Byron Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 348 Cases, $45. Clone 667.
Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 31% new.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Oak-driven
aromas of espresso, toast and spice lead to a lively palate of oak-kissed black cherry fruit. The fruit is juicy and
vibrant, the tannins are modest and the finish attracts attention with its energy and gift of bright fruit. I wanted
more fruit on the nose, and less oak infusion, but the wine delivered plenty of pleasure in the mouth.
Score: 88
2014 Byron Monument Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., 390
cases, $65. Clones Wädenswil 2A, Pommard, Swan, Benedict Selection.
Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 78% new.
·
Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is primary, offering little even
with vigorous swirling, except notes of oak-driven coffee and spice. Much
more giving on the mid weight palate, offering fresh flavors of black
raspberry and black cherry fruits. The satiny texture is very seductive
and the wine is impeccably balanced with oak delicately augmenting the
fruit flavors.
Score: 92
2014 Byron Nielson Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
13.7% alc., 1,984 cases, $45. Clones 114, 667, Pommard
and Wädenswil 2A.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Boisterous aromas of dark red cherry and berry
with a compliment of oak. Mid weight plus core of black cherry and boysenberry fruit flavors in a rather simple
but pleasurable style. The mid palate has noticeable intent, the tannins are nicely balanced, there is an
noticeable oak thread plying the background, and the finish shows some vigor.
Score: 90
2014 Byron Nielson Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay
14.3% alc., 348 cases, $40. Wente and
Dijon 95 and 76 clones. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 54% new.
·
Very light golden yellow color and
clear in the glass. Highly enviable aromas of lemon zest, almond, vanilla and brioche. Very enterprising on the
palate, with hi-tone flavors of lemon, pear, white peach, melon and spice. Sleek in texture and refined in
character with a palate cleansing finish.
Score: 93
2014 Byron Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay
14.3% alc., 255 cases, $45. Clones 95 and Wente
4. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 58% new.
·
Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass.
Toast dominates the nose that also offers scents of citrus, white peach and pear. Much better with time in the
glass with more energetic fruit aromas. The flavors of lemon, white peach, pear, fig and butter echo the nose
but with more citrus singing. Sleek and clean, with a razor finish.
Score: 88
La Follette Wines, Sebastopol
Noted winemaker Greg La Follette specializes in vineyard-designated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. These two
North Coast blends are more value priced and offered in more widespread distribution. Sites are selected for
their potential contribution to the overall blend. In 2014, a warm growing season hastened the onset of harvest,
and picking the Pinot Noir began in the third week of August. Tasting is available at The Barlow in Sebastopol.
2014 La Follette North Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.53, TA 0.62, 7,458 cases, $22,
screwcap. Heart of this blend is Pinot Noir grown in the cool Petaluma Gap region of the Sonoma
Coast AVA. Grapes from two family owned and organically farmed vineyards in Mendocino County
round out the wine.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A mix of black cherry, peppery spices
and black toast aromas lead to a mid weight wine with deep cherry flavor embellished with a note of
spice. Silky tannins but enough structure to give the wine shoulders. Easy drinking, with a modicum
of oak underlay and a modest but crisp finish.
Score: 88
2014 La Follette North Coast Chardonnay
13.8% alc., pH 3.49, TA 0.60, 3,335 cases, $22,
screwcap. Grapes for this blend come from both Mendocino County and the Sonoma Coast. A blend
of tank and barrel fermentations.
·
Very light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of
lemon wafer, honey, spice, brioche and buttery oak lead off. Inviting brightness on the palate, with
flavors of lemon, pineapple, green apple and grapefruit, and a pleasing texture that hints at
creaminess.
Score: 88
MacPhail Wines (formerly MacPhail Family Vineyards), Sonoma County
James MacPhail launched his namesake winery, MacPhail Family Wines, in 2002 and the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay offerings achieved
widespread success, and seemed to escalate in quality each year. In 2011, the winery was sold to The Hess
Collection with James staying on as winemaker. In June, 2016, James left the winery and was replaced by
consulting winemaker Matt Courtney (Arista). The winery changed its name to MacPhail Wines.
The 2014 vintage wines reviewed here are the last that James vinified in entirety under
the MacPhail Family Wines label. Overall, I found that oak played a noticeable role in the aromatic and
flavor profile of several of these Pinot Noirs and they may warrant higher scores when they are released next
year as the oak further integrates. The Sonoma Coast bottling is the most forward drinking in the lineup and
has been released.
For all these Pinot Noirs, the grapes are 100% de-stemmed, undergo a 5-day pre-fermentation cold soak,
followed by fermentation with feral yeasts and/or proprietary yeast. Malolactic fermentation is usually native.
Battonage in barrel once weekly for three months with a total aging of 11 months (17 months for the Pratt
Vineyard bottling) in French oak barrels. The wines are bottled unfined and either lightly filtered or unfiltered.
2014 MacPhail Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.56, 2,350 cases, $40. Release fall 2016.
A blend of ten vineyard sources. Clones 114, 115, Pommard 4, 23, 667, 777, “828,” Martini, Calera and Swan.
Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 40% new.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Shy, but pleasant aromas of black cherry, mulch and vanilla. Welcome fruit richness on the palate, with
flavors of black cherry, boysenberry and blackberry infused with noticeable oak overlay. The tannins are
reigned in, the mouthfeel is plush and the wine offers some generous fruit on the finish. The most
approachable wine in the 2014 lineup.
Score: 89
2014 MacPhail Ferrington Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.64, 94 cases,
$49. Release spring 2017. First MacPhail bottling from Ferrington Vineyard since 2010. Harvest Brix
24.0º-25.3º. Clones 667, “828,” and Pommard. Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 26% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose leads with aromas of black cherry, toast and tobacco. Mid
weight flavors of oak-kissed black cherry and blackberry fruits have noticeable intensity and freshness. The
tannins are nicely balanced, there is a hint of welcome spice, and the deep cherry finish impresses. The wine
attracts more attention with time in the glass.
Score: 91
2014 MacPhail Toulouse Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., pH 3.82, TA 0.58, 459 cases,
$49. Release spring 2017. Clones are Pommard, 115, 667, 777 and Wädenswil 2A. Aged 11 months on the
lees in French oak barrels, 38% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. There is more oak in this wine
than I like, but otherwise it is a captivating wine. Aromas of boysenberry, blackberry, cola and toasty oak are
replicated in the mid weight loquacious flavors. There is admirable lift and juiciness, with silky tannins, with oak
striving for attention on the finish. A little less oak intrusion was noted on the following day when tasted from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 90
2014 MacPhail Sundawg Ridge Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH
3.55, TA 0.59, 409 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. Clones are Pommard, 115 and Calera. Aged 11 months
on the lees in French oak barrels, 33% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with
aromas of cherry, peppery spices, earth and sweet oak. Highly seductive in the mouth with a lush texture and
ripe flavors of strawberry, black cherry and black raspberry. A very polished and harmonious wine with good
energy, deft barrel management and a grand finish. Considerably better the following day when tasted from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 92
2014 MacPhail Dutton Ranch Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.60, TA
0.57, 297 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. Thomas Road and Manzana vineyards. Harvest Brix 25.5º-26.0º.
Clones 115, 777 and “828.” Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 34% new.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. Aromas of fresh cherry, baking spice and toasty oak lead off. In the mouth, there is a
modest attack of black cherry and blackberry fruits accented with vivid oak. The texture is suave, the tannins
are well balanced, and the wine finishes with a flourish of dared bed berry goodness.
Score: 89
2014 MacPhail Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 108 cases, $49. Release
spring 2017. Harvest Brix 23.8º. Clones 115, 667 and 777. Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels,
34% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Oak dominates the character of this wine that has
aromas of cherry, old book and toast and flavors of black cherry, dark berries, spice and tobacco. Decent
balance of t n’a and some finish filled with sweet dark berry fruits.
Score: 88
2014 MacPhail Pratt Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.3% alc.,
pH 3.46, TA 0.61, 203 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. One of
California’s premier Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards. Harvest Brix
24.5º. Clones are Pommard 4 and 5, 114, 115, 777 and 23. Aged 17
months on the lees in French oak barrels, 33% new.
·
Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. A very classy wine that impresses from
the get-go with aromas of dark cherry and underbrush and flavors of
blueberry, boysenberry and spice in an elegantly styled wine with good
oak integration, filigree tannins and a long, sleek finish. This wine stands
out among the 2014 lineup of MacPhail Pinot Noir wines tasted on this
date.
Score: 92
2014 MacPhail Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.3% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.60, 145
cases, $45. Harvest Brix 23.9º. Release fall 2016. Clones are Dijon 76 and 96. Barrel fermented, native
fermentation, 100% malolactic fermentation, lees stirring once weekly through primary fermentation. Aged 17
months on the lees in French oak barrels, 15% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light golden
yellow color in the glass. Aromas of fresh-squeezed lemon and honeycomb lead to flavors of citrus, poached
yellow apple, vanilla cream and caramel. Slightly creamy in texture, with integrated acidity and finish filled with
caramelized apple flavor.
Score: 90
Navarro Vineyards, Philo
The two Pinot Noirs reviewed here from Navarro offer a very instructive contrast. At Navarro, no sulfur dioxide
is added to crushed grapes or juice, so they assume spoilage yeasts (Brettanomyces - the Greek word for
“British fungus” as it was causing spoilage in English ales around 1900) might appear in the winery. Therefore,
they take extra precautions to keep the winery sanitary and each barrel is carefully monitored. Typically the
Pinot Noir is sold after it has been in bottle a year or two and during this time a second fermentation can occur
due to Brettanomyces. Navarro prefers not to filter Pinot Noir as it strips the wine of some of its richness, so
before bottling, each wine is checked for potential spoilage yeasts. Normally the winery’s unfiltered Pinot Noir is
limited to a few hundred cases each vintage to keep potential losses at a minimum, but the 2014 Pinot Noirs
seemed generally free of problem yeasts, so they bottled 40 percent of the 2014 Méthode à l’Ancienne Pinot
Noir unfiltered. Both the filtered and unfiltered versions of this Pinot Noir were vinified in an identical manner
including aging for nearly a year in French oak barrels, 30% new. A total of 4,526 cases of the wine in its two
configurations were produced. Tasting the two wines side-by-side, it is easy to discern noticeable differences,
and I much preferred the unfiltered version of the same wine.
2014 Navarro Vineyards Méthode à l’Ancienne Anderson Valley Pinot Noir (Filtered)
13.9% alc., pH 3.62,
TA 0.65, $32. Harvest Brix 24.9º.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of cherry,
cranberry and raspberry mix with dried herb scents. Light to mid weight styled and cherry driven, with accents
of spice and dried herbs. Sleek and elegant, but somewhat shallow on the mid palate, finishing modestly. The
wine seems stripped of its character compared to the unfiltered bottling.
Score: 88
2014 Navarro Vineyards Méthode à l’Ancienne Anderson Valley Pinot Noir (Unfiltered)
13.9% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.65,
$35. Harvest Brix 24.9º.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. Considerably more aromatic than the filtered wine, with
soaring aromas of darker cherries, spice and earthy flora.
Fuller, weightier and more round shouldered on the palate with
beguiling fruit flavors of black cherry and black raspberry. A subtle thread
of savory herbs plies the background. The texture is very soothing and
the wine offers more fruit and length on the finish than the filtered twin.
Still quite enjoyable the following day from a previously opened and recorked
bottle.
Score: 91
2014 Navarro Vineyards Premiére Reserve Anderson Valley Chardonnay
13.5% alc., pH 3.39,
TA 0.76, 827 cases, $27. Harvest Brix 24.0º. After a leisurely fermentation, the must was racked to
French oak barrels, 28% new, underwent full malolactic fermentation, and aged 10 months on the
lees.
·
Light golden yellow color in the glass. The nose attracts interest with scents of lemon oil,
pomelo, nutty oak and garrigue. Flavors of lemon, pineapple, honey, almond and toast blend nicely
and are lifted by prime acidity. The wine leaves a good impression with a clean, bright finish
displaying good cut.
Score: 90
Sojourn Cellars, Sonoma
I had the opportunity to taste these wines on my own as well as with winemaker Erich Bradley. It is always
extremely helpful as a wine critic to taste with winemakers because I get a feel for what the winemaker is trying
to accomplish stylistically, why they chooses certain vineyards to work with, and what challenges they face. I
am reminded of the quote from Tim Atkin MW, “I believe the place where a wine was made, not to mention the
character, ambition and talent of the person who made it, is highly relevant to how that wine tastes. I want to
know about these things, just as I want to know about vintage conditions, personal eccentricities and a
winemaker’s take on the world. All these things make wine different: all these things make wine special.” When
a winemaker talks more about vineyards and viticulture than winemaking, like Erich does, I know the wines
have a better chance of excellence.
The 2015 vintage on the Sonoma Coast was outstanding for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, although yields were
lower than average. Bud break was early and drought conditions prevailed throughout the growing season.
Harvest was one of the earliest on record. Vines produced loose clusters and smaller berries with ripe tannins.
Erich noted, “The resulting wines display tremendous finesse, depth and aromatic intensity.”
All the vineyards Erich works with are very cool sites with extended growing seasons, yet the grapes are able
to reach phenolic maturity without high Brix levels. Erich looks for gracious Pinot Noir that has enviable
textures. He carefully matches his choice of cooperage with each vineyard to best pull out the most desirable
characteristics and expression of the vineyard.
The wines reviewed here were bottled in July and August, 2016, (Chardonnay) and at the end of August (Pinot
Noir), 2016, and are just now beginning to be expressive. They will be released at the end of January 2017, but
the vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs are still immature without full oak integration and will surely offer more
pleasurable drinking with another 6 to 12 months of cellaring. 2015 vintage case production was 7,450 cases of
Pinot Noir and 1,667 cases of Chardonnay. Tasting is available by appointment at the winery’s tasting room in
the town of Sonoma. Visit www.sojourncellars.com.
2015 Sojourn Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 2,280 cases, $39. A blend of grapes from eight
vineyards in the Sonoma Coast AVA, ranging from Occidental to the Petaluma Gap. Key components are
Gap’s Crown, Sangiacomo, Rodgers Creek and Walala vineyards. Pinot Noir clones 115, “828,” 667, Pommard
and Wädenswil 2A.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Highly aromatic upon opening, with
scents of cherry, pomegranate, spice, earthy flora and peat. Highly satisfying from the get-go, with mid weight
flavors of cherry, pomegranate, black raspberry and Damsel plum fruits accented with enviable spice. Nicely
balanced with oak adding interest in the background and finishing with good generosity. You won’t find a better
Sonoma Coast appellation Pinot Noir in the marketplace.
Score: 90
2015 Sojourn Rodgers Creek Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.61, 774 cases,
$48. Release spring 2017. Since 2008, Sojourn has worked with this vineyard sits high on a ridge in the
Petaluma Gap, taking the full brunt of wind and thick fog that define this cool climate zone. Soils are volcanic
ash on steep inclines. The foundation of the wine is Pommard clone that underwent 15% whole cluster
fermentation, with some clone 777 that was de-stemmed. Barrels from the Bertranges forest was used to offer
earthy umami characteristics that enhance the earth and mushroom notes of the Pommard clone in this wine.
Open-top fermentation with native yeast, aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Deep aromas of earthy cherry fruit with a hint of stem and
sandalwood. Inviting marriage of ripe black cherry and blackberry fruits with savory hints of earth and
mushroom. Noticeable, but not intrusive velvety tannins, with a welcome touch of toasty oak, and a finish with
emphatic length. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 93
2015 Sojourn Sangiacomo Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.60,
1,020 cases, $59. Release spring 2017. This vineyard is located on Roberts Road at the western base
of Sonoma Mountain. The base of this wine is clone 115 with small portions of 777 and Swan clones
added in for complexity. Extremely low yields. 100% de-stemmed, open-top fermentation with native
yeast, and aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. Persistent aromas of black cherry, spice, purple grapes and oak
shavings lead to a mid weight treasure of purple berry and black cherry goodness that has impressive
depth of flavor and a remarkably plush and luxurious mouthfeel. Not a powerhouse like the Gap’s Crown, but
nimble and texturally mesmerizing. Needs a little time to fully integrate the oak. Even better the following day
from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 94
2015 Sojourn Walala Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.65, 328 cases, $69. Release spring
2017. Inaugural vintage from this vineyard formerly owned by
Premier Pacific and now owned by Bill Price. The vineyard sits
on a spectacular ridge located 1,200 feet above sea level, just
inland from the Pacific Ocean near the coastal town of
Annapolis. Clones 113, 115, 777 and “828,” are planted in
gravelly loam soils.The vineyard rarely is warmer than 80ºF but the
elevation gives the vines ample sunlight and there has not been a
problem getting grapes to ripen. 100% de-stemmed, open-top
fermentation with native yeast, aged in French oak barrels, 50% new.
Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. A standout in this lineup of excellent 2015 Pinot Noirs, offering
aromas of cherry, strawberry, cranberry and spice with a forest floor accent. Flat-out stunning on the palate with
a charge of delicious black cherry fruit that sticks to the mid palate and hangs on through an extraordinarily
long and graciously fruity finish. Beautifully composed, with dry well-proportioned tannins and a satiny
mouthfeel. This wine breathes new life into the promise of Pinot Noir that winemakers dream about.
Score: 96
2015 Sojourn Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.47, TA 0.64, 768 cases,
$69. Release spring 2017. This vineyard is located on Roberts Road just above the Sangiacomo Vineyard yet
the wines it produces are completely different. The base of the wine is clone 115 and 667, with small amounts
of “828” that was whole cluster pressed and blended in for an overall total of 10% whole cluster. The 667 grown
here produces very small berries and potent concentration so it is used judiciously. The vineyard typically
delivers fruit richness, robust tannins and ample acidity and Erich must fight to tone the wine down. In 2015,
tiny berries resulted in high levels of concentration. Clones fermented separately and aged separately before
blending. Small amount of whole cluster. Open-top fermentation with native yeast and aged in French oak
barrels, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Hi-tone
aromas of purple berries, spice and earthy flora soar from the glass with swirling. A mid weight plus core of
luscious boysenberry and blueberry fruits brings the palate to attention. Very juicy and sappy with slightly
astringent tannins and a hint of oak, welcome textural fluidity, and finishing with lasting generosity. This one will
stand up to a good steak.
Score: 92
2015 Sojourn Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.36, TA 0.67, 591 cases, $38. Release spring
2017. Whole cluster pressed, fermented in French oak barrels with native yeast, complete malolactic
fermentation, and aging 11 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled Unfined.
·
Moderately light golden
yellow color and clear in the glass. This wine is intended to please those who prefer a ripe, more buttery style
of Chardonnay. Aromas of yellow stone fruits and lemon are echoed in the flavors with added tropical and
buttery oak notes. Nicely balanced, slightly viscous in texture, with a pleasing fruit intensity and a good cut on
the finish.
Score: 90
2015 Sojourn Sangiacomo Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.39, TA 0.70, 348 cases, $45.
Release spring 2017. The wine is a combination of clone 95 from Sangiacomo Roberts Road Vineyard and Old
Wente clone from Sangiacomo Vella Ranch and Green Acres. Whole cluster pressed, fermented slowly in
French oak barrels using native yeast, lees stirring the first three months, and aged in French oak barrels, 30%
new. Malolactic fermentation allowed to progress as far as it desired. Bottled unfined.
·
Moderately light golden
yellow color in the glass. This wine is styled in a more vibrant, bright style. Aromas of lemon and grapefruit lead
to a crisp and clean palate that is citrus driven. Vivid flavors, with oak playing a minor role, and finishing on a
spirited note with a juicy, cleansing attitude.
Score: 92
The Withers Winery, Santa Rosa
2014 The Withers English Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., 347 cases, $48. 8.5-acre
vineyard planted in 2005. Located 9.2 miles from the Pacific Ocean in Occidental at 652 feet in Goldridge soil.
Clones are Vosne-Romanee, 115 and 667. 35% whole cluster and feral yeast fermentation after a cold soak.
Aged in French oak barrels, 15% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. Highly ripened fruit aromas combined with notes of mesquite, stem and mocha java. Mid weight flavors
of oak-kissed black cherry with an earthy, savory herb undertone. Plush in the mouth, with soft, merged
tannins, spice notes, and some finishing goodness. This wine will benefit from more time in bottle to fully
harmonize.
Score: 89
2014 The Withers Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.1% alc., 319 cases, $44. Vineyard was
planted between 1991 and 1996. Located just southwest of Sebastopol. Clones are Pommard, 115 and 777.
35% whole cluster, feral yeast fermentation after a cold soak. Aged in French oak barrels, 15% new. Bottled
unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is very shy even with
vigorous swirling, revealing only scents of earthy flora and oak. Much better on the palate, with flavors of
cranberry, cherry and raspberry in a sleek, mid weight styled wine that has appealing fruit juiciness and
vibrancy. Somewhat simple, yet strives to please, with balanced tannins and a very satisfying, red fruit driven
finish.
Score: 89
2014 The Withers Charles Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
13.7% alc., 361 cases, $44. A 14-acre vineyard
planted in 2001 (10 acres of Pinot Noir). Located in Boonville adjacent Anderson Creek. Pommard, 115 and
667. Extremely well-drained soils. 35% whole cluster, feral yeast fermentation after a cold soak. Aged in French
oak barrels, 20% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Dark fruited
on the nose with added scents of spice, bark and nutty oak. More inviting in the mouth, with flavors of black
cherry and oak spice backed by muscular tannins that rise up on the finish that has good intensity and length.
Needs a little more time in bottle to integrate the tannins.
Score: 89
Final Oregon Wine Reviews of 2016
Broadley Vineyards, Monroe
2014 Broadley Vineyards Claudia's Choice Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 350 cases,
$50. Estate grown and bottled. Named for Broadley Vineyards co-founder Claudia Broadley. Sourced from a
distinct block of the estate vineyard that tends to ripen later and often sets smaller clusters. The result is a big,
dark, complex wine. The blend is primarily Pommard clone with some Wädenswil. Wild yeast fermentation.
Aged 14-18 months in 40% new and the balance neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color
and very bright in the glass. Somewhat moody, with aromas of earthy dark cherry lead to a satisfying mid
weight palate of blueberry and black cherry fruit flavors. Very generous, with a silky texture and a saturating
fruit driven finish offering a cascade of fruit. The wine is still very young and needs time (like many 2014
Oregon Pinot Noirs) to fully integrate the tannins.
Score: 92
2014 Broadley Vineyards Marcile Lorraine Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 150 cases,
$50. Estate grown and bottled.
·
Named for founder Craig Broadley’s mother, this wine is produced each year
from the same distinctive block of old vine Pinot Noir. A cooler fermentation, tighter-grained wood, and low
toast barrels are used in production. A blend of Wädenswil and Pommard with the majority Wädenswil. Wild
yeast fermentation in open-top oak fermenter for 14-21 days. Aged 14-18 months in French oak barrels, 40%
new and the balance neutral. Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose offers primarily oak scents
with added aromas of ripe cherry, earth and stem. The mid weight plus core of black raspberry fruit is opulent
and layered, framed by rigorous tannins and silky acidity. The fruit has that old vine tenacity. Impressive
balance and appeal but rather reticent at this stage, finishing with a remarkably long finish. The wine may
warrant a higher score after more time in the cellar.
Score: 93
Cristom Vineyards, Salem
All wines reviewed here are produced and bottled from estate vineyards that are certified sustainable and
unfiltered. The excellence of these wines from a venerated producer easily justify the price. You can recognize
class when you experience it, and these wines have it. They can be enjoyed now for their youthful fruit, but will
develop more intrigue with another few years in the cellar. The wines have discernible terroir-driven differences
that adds to their appeal. Highly recommended.
2014 Cristom Marjorie Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.63, TA 0.60, 381 cases, $69. Only vineyard
kept when the property was bought in 1992. This upper field had been planted in 1982 but abandoned in the late 1980s. The vineyard was named in honor of founder Paul Gerrie's late mother. The vineyard is distinctive in that it is own-rooted and lower density (6' x12') plantings. 8.5 acres are planted between the lower slopes of Louise Vineyard and Eileen Vineyard at the top of the hill. By 2004, Marjorie was re-planted with young vines grafted to phylloxera resistant rootstocks to supplant the older original vines. In 1999, the original Martini clone was grafted over to Dijon 114, 115 and 777. Beginning in 2004, re-planting of Marjorie was undertaken with Pommard, Wädenswil, 114, 115 and 777. Some original Pommard and Wädenswil vines remain. Both original and young vines contribute to this bottling. Harvest Brix 24.3º-24.7º. 48% whole clusters, no cold soak, native yeast fermentations, minimum effective additions of sulfur and tartaric acid, bladder pressed, and aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 47% new. Bottled after fining with egg whites and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose
offers a whole cluster delight of black cherry, rose petal,
cinnamon, and exotic spice aromas. The whole cluster also
embellishes the palate that features a mid weight core of
succulent, well-spiced cherry fruit that is flat-out delicious. Welcome
balance, with silky tannins and juicy acidity, finishing with a lengthy
stream of spiced cherry and raspberry fruits. Even better the following
day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle showing
more power and depth and an even more gorgeous finish.
Score: 96
2014 Cristom Jessie Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.76, TA 0.57, 964 cases, $59.
This 11.53-acre vineyard was planted in 1994 on a very steep, east-facing hillside site. Vines are planted at a high density of 2,311 vines per acre. Basalt soils including Jory and Nekia. Clones 115, 114, 777, 113, 667 and Pommard on three rootstocks. Harvest Brix 24.4º-24.9º. 40% whole clusters, no cold soak, native yeast fermentations, bladder pressed, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 52% new. Bottled after fining with egg whites and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. The aromas are varied and include cherry, rose petal, spice, earth and oak. Noticeable vigor in a mid
weight styled wine with flavors of cherry, raspberry, spice and floral goodness. A little more masculine and
“grounded” than the Marjorie with a little more structural tannins and perhaps a little less exuberant. The
texture is refined and polished and there is noticeable intensity on the finish.
Score: 93
2014 Cristom Eileen Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.61, 940
cases, $59. Vineyard named after founder Eileen Gerrie, wife of Paul Gerrie. Planting began in 1997 to Dijon 114, 115 and 777 and Pommard clone at high density. Wadenswil was added in 2006 bringing the vineyard to 16.61 acres, the largest planting of Pinot Noir on the estate. This vineyard extends to the crest of the Eola Hills and is exposed to the last rays of sunlight each day and the first cooling Pacific Ocean breezes. Soils are primarily Jory and Nekia. Harvest Brix 24.5º-24.6º. 48% whole clusters. No cold soak, minimum addditions of sulfur and tartaric acid, native yeast fermentation, bladder pressed, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 44% new. Bottled after fining with egg whites and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Seductive aromas of black cherry, exotic spices and sous-bois lead to a
sturdy and highly flavorful palate featuring dark cherry and purple grape fruits gently framed by firm but
not imposing tannins. Engaging fruit purity and delightful spice with a lingering, juicy finish. You will
want to elope with Eileen.
Score: 94
2014 Cristom Louise Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., pH 3.78, TA 0.58, 856
cases, $59. The first vineyard established at Cristom in 1993 and named for founder Paul Gerrie's maternal grandmother. Densely planted at 2300 vines per acre on the
upper slopes of vineyard ("Upper Louise") and 1,815 vines per acre on the lower vines closest to the winery ("Lower Louise"). Louise has the most dramatic soil diversity among all Cristom vineyards. 9.31 acres are planted with Dijon 113, 114, 115 and 777 and Pommard clones. Harvest Brix 23.6º-25.1º. 42% whole clusters. No cold soak before native yeast fermentation. Minimum effective additions of sulfur and tartaric acid. Bladder pressed and aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 51% new. Bottled after fining with egg whites and unfiltered.
·
Light cherry red color in the glass. The aromas of
crushed cherry, spice, rose petal, pine sap and vanilla oil draw your nose into the glass. A perfectly
ripened core of dark red cherry essence fills every nook and cranny in the mouth and really clings to
the finish. There are nuances galore, including accents of cardamom spice, boysenberry juice and
subtle oak spices. The wine has noticeable energy and enough tannin for the long haul. Even more
giving when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle exhibiting dreamy balance.
Score: 95
Ponzi Vineyards, Sherwood
Winemaker Louisa Ponzi is pioneering a viticutural innovation called “clonal massale.” The term refers to a
hybrid of clonal selection and massale selection, where over 25 clones of Pinot Noir, selected for a specific
site, are mixed and planted randomly in a single block. This technique has evolved over two generations with
four decades of evaluation and experience working with many different clones. Ponzi Vineyards now has over
30 acres of vines planted to clonal massale.
Louise notes, “Each clone has a personality. When many are combined in a single block, the multitude of
characteristics naturally brings complexity and dimensions to the wines. By planting these clones at random,
like wildflowers, it further relinquishes the question of clone and focuses fully on the terroir of site.”
The two wines reviewed below are from vineyards planted to clonal massale. A 2-acre site named Abetina
Vineyard was planted on its own roots in 1975 to 22 different Pinot Noir clones as part of a clonal test site for
Oregon State University. Each vine was tagged to determine which was best suited to the region. Abetina
Vineyard is preserved on rootstock and was planted at Aurora Vineyard in 2005 as Abetina 2, maintaining for
the long term this outstanding mix of clones. Abetina 2 is at the same elevation, aspect and on the same soil as
the original, and has more than 20 Pinot Noir clones. (Aurora Vineyard was originally planted to 10 acres of
Dijon 113, 114, 115, 667 and 777 in 1999)
In 2006, Pinot Noir blocks at Avellana Vineyard were the first planted fully to clonal massale. 5 Dijon clones are
blended with 22 heritage clones from Abetina. Planting at this site continued through 2014 and is the most
extensive planting of Pinot Noir clones in the United States.
2011 Ponzi Abetina 2 Chehalem Mountains Oregon Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.60,125 cases, $145.
Released September 2013. A single vineyard cuvée crafted from Abetina 2 block at Ponzi’s LIVE Certified
Sustainable Aurora Vineyard. 100% de-stemmed, fermented in small lots after a 5-day cold soak. Fermenters
were aerated or manually punched down twice a day for 12-20 days before undergoing a 7-day postfermentation
maceration. The wine was aged for 20 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. Bottled without
fining or filtration and aged in bottle for 5 months before release.
·
This wine disappoints at this price level
except for an incredibly long finish. The nose is oak driven with aromas of char and toast with very little berry
fruit, even when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. The mid weight core of
purple grape and black raspberry fruits have charm and are more expressive on the palate. The barrel
treatment is noticeable evident in the background. There is good energy and vibrancy, the tannins are gracious,
and the finish is extraordinarily lengthy.
Score: 90
2014 Ponzi Avellana Chehalem Mountains Oregon Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.73, 110 cases, $105.
Released November 2016. Crafted exclusively from Ponzi’s LIVE Certified Sustainable Avellana Vineyard.
100% de-stemmed, fermented in small lots after a 5-day cold soak. Fermenters were aerated or manually
punched down twice a day for 12-20 days before undergoing a 7-day post-fermentation cold soak. The wine
was aged for 20 months in French oak barrels, 50% new, bottled unfined and unfiltered, and aged 5 months in
bottle before release.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, soy sauce and forest
floor lead to a delicious core of cherry and raspberry fruits lifted with bright acidity. Very charming in the mouth
with a soft texture, spice accents, and an exuberant, showy finish filled with exuberant grape essence.
Score: 93
Potter’s Vineyard and Vino Vasai Vintners, Newberg
Bill and Sandy Sanchez took over Laura Volkman’s estate vineyard in September 2012. Pinot Noir from the
estate vineyard are bottled under the Vino Vasai label, “Potter’s Wine” in Italian.
2015 Vino Vasai Estate Chehalem Mountains Oregon Pinot Noir Rosé
10.7% alc., 72 cases, $18 (sold
out).
·
Moderate pink color in the glass. Delicate aromas of strawberry, blood orange, leafy salad greens and
creme fraiche. Highly flavorful, with tastes of strawberry, cherry, raspberry and blood orange offering bright
acidity and some intensity on a satisfying finish. For a rosé, this wine has unusual aromatic persistence on the
finish.
Score: 88
2014 Vino Vasai Dario Estate Chehalem Mountains Oregon Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., $25. From a 3-acre
vineyard planted in 2001 in Jory and Laurelwood soils. Aged on the lees in neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Pleasant aromas of black cherry and underbrush. Fresh and
easy to like in an elegant, mid weight styled wine with flavors of black cherry, peppery spice, dried herbs and a
hint of smoke. Nicely balanced, with evident but polished tannins, finishing on an upbeat note.
Score: 89
2014 Vino Vasai Estate Reserve Chehalem Mountains Oregon Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., $45. A barrel
selection.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. More fruit concentration and supporting tannins
than the Dario Estate bottling deserving of a Reserve designation. Deep black cherry flavor of Pommard has a
earthy mushroom note also typical of Pommard. Very classy and seductive on the palate, with enough tannin
for age ability. Still solid the following day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. No need
to be in a hurry to drink this beauty.
Score: 92
Privé Vineyard, Newberg
Only 950 cases a year from a 2-acre vineyard. A truly boutique winery producing exceptional Pinot Noir that is
sold exclusively on futures to a mailing list. These wines have significantly improved since last tasted a year
ago and should continue to evolve over the next several years.
2014 Privé Vineyard le sud Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., 100 cases, $600. Estate grown. 100% Pommard grown on
the south block of a southwest facing hillside. Aged 12 months in 100%
new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Soaring aromas of fresh red cherry, spice and forest floor. Juicy
and polished in the mouth, with charming elegance. Mid weight flavors
of red cherry and raspberry are complimented by oak seasoning. The
tannins are nicely integrated and the overall experience is one of
refinement. The wine was much more expressive the following day from
a previously opened and re-corked bottle such that I wanted to finish the
whole bottle. Previously reviewed 11/22/15 (90-91).
Score: 93
2014 Privé Vineyard Joie de Vivre Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., 12 cases,
$90. Estate grown. Etched, hand painted, numbered and signed bottle. Produced from the first few
gallons of each press load from le nord and le sud blended and aged in 50% new French oak barrels
for 12 months.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Similar to the le sud but with a
deeper, more penetrating nose focused on cherry fruit. Plenty of cherry and purple berry sap to delight
in a juicy, mid weight styled wine that has admirable oak integration, ample but balanced tannins, and
an especially long finish. A high-collared wine that is approachable now, but will age beautifully for
years to come. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Previously
reviewed 11/22/15 (92).
Score: 94
Soléna Estate, Yamhill
Soléna is the combination of the French words Solana and Soleil, celebrating the sun and the moon, and the
name that owners Laurent Montalieu and Danielle Andrus gave their daughter. Pinot Noirs are offered from the
estate Domaine Danielle Laurent Vineyard and Hyland Vineyard as well as purchased fruit from several
notable vineyards. A new tasting room is open daily at 17096 NE Woodland Loop Road in Yamhill. To acquire
the wines, visit www.solenaestate.com.
2014 Soléna Grand Cuvée Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.4% alc., pH 3.67, 7,000 cases, RS 0 g/
L, $30. Released April 2016. Harvest Brix 23º-25º. Aged 8 months in French oak barrels, 22% new. The 2012
vintage of this wine was one of Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines for 2016.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. Very appealing when poured in the glass, but loses appeal over time indicating this is an early drinking
wine. Aromas of black cherry and woodland spice lead to a middleweight core of spiced black cherry and black
raspberry fruits embellished with a compliment of oak. Juicy, with balanced tannins and respectable mid palate
intensity and finish.
Score: 88
2014 Soléna Zena Crown Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Oregon Pinot Noir
13.7% alc., pH 3.73, 149 cases,
$48. Vines planted in 2004. Harvest Brix 25º. Aged 8 months in French oak barrels, 33% new.
·
Moderate
reddish purple color in the glass. Reticent, but pleasant aromas of a mix of red cherry and berry with a forest
under scent. Juicy on the palate with a mid weight charge of purple berry fruit accented with an earthy
mushroom note. A little rustic, yet with admirable fruit quality, well-structured with firm fruit tannins.
Score: 92
2014 Soléna Guadalupe Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir
13.4% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.56, 148
cases, $48. Vines planted in 2006. Harvest Brix 25.6º. Aged 8 months in French oak barrels, 40% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Deep aromas of red cherry and berry with a compliment of sousbois.
The typical crunchy cherry of the Dundee Hills is on full display in this wine with good depth and
character. A little spice adds to the appeal as does the lingering finish although it leaves a bit of astringency in
its wake.
Score: 90
2014 Soléna Domaine Danielle Laurent Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Oregon Pinot Noir
13.1% alc., pH 3.70, 517 cases, $55. Harvest Brix
23º-25º. Vines planted in 2001, 2004 and 2007. Aged 8 months in French
oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
Beautifully perfumed with aromas of black cherry, dark raspberry coulis,
bakery spice and floral bouquet. Luxurious on the palate in a mid weight
plus style with waves of black cherry and purple berry fruits that are
plush and expressive. Substantial fruit tannins back up the fruit
concentration. A high class wine that has staying power in the mouth and
finishes with a peacock tail of fruit. The best wine I have had from this
maturing vineyard.
Score: 94
2014 Soléna Domaine Hyland Vineyard Legacy McMinnville Oregon Pinot Noir
13.2% alc.,
pH 3.73, 25 cases, $100. A single barrel selection chosen by Laurent Montalieu to represent the best expression of the
Hyland Vineyard in 2014. Vines first planted in 1972 in volcanic Jory soils. Harvest Brix 25º.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely, delicate aromas of fresh black cherries and earthy
flora. A light to mid weight style wine with redder fruit flavors and spice galore. The wine hits all the high notes
in the mouth and on the finish, flaunting impeccable balance, modest but adequate tannins and the power
without weight that only Pinot Noir can deliver. This wine has the harmony to age beautifully.
Score: 93
2015 Soléna Willamette Valley Chardonnay
12.9% alc., pH 3.30, TA 0.64, RS 0.9 g/L, 500 cases,
$30. Released November 2016. Harvest Brix 21.5º. Barrel fermented and aged 10 months in French
oak barrels, 20% new.
·
Light golden yellow and clear in the glass. Very inviting aromas of fresh lemon
juice and honeyed pear. Bright and crisp on the palate with clean flavors of citrus, pear and the
slightest caramel. Very satisfying with great composure, finishing with a delightful crunchy apple
sendoff.
Score: 94
More Wines
2014 Arterberry Maresh Maresh Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir
13.4% alc., $59. Non-irrigated
old vines. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Light cherry red color in the glass. The nose is primary, with only delicate
aromas of black cherry and complimentary oak toast and spice. Light to mid weight flavors of dark red cherry
are offered in a very gentle wine with good mid palate intensity and some finishing generosity. This wine won’t
open your eyes, but has good character and balance. Much better presentation when tasted the following day
from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. The wine could take on more power and nuance with additional
time in bottle.
Score: 90
2014 Eminent Domaine Reserve Ribbon Ridge Oregon Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 248 cases, $69. Estate grown on Willakenzie soils. Clones
are 115 and Pommard.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass
(you can assume the ripeness and concentration from the color). Really
deep cherry aroma accented with noticeable oak vanillin and spice. The
mid weight, well-ripened black cherry and black raspberry fruits veer to
full ripeness, but the wine is well crafted, offering a velvety ride in the
mouth through a pleasingly plush finish. There is enough tannin to
support the fruit load and lend age ability. This beauty was considerably
more appealing with more aromatic fruit when tasted the following day
from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Atypical in character for
Oregon, but reflective of the warm 2014 vintage. Decant if you pop the
cork now.
Score: 93
2014 Résonance Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $35. Maison Louis Jdot’s first
wine project outside of Burgundy since founding in 1859. Vinified at Trisaetum. A blend of
Resonance, Decouverte and other vineyards in a Willamette Valley cuvée. (not the Resonance
Vineyard designate bottling). Aged 13 months in French oak barrels, 20% new.
·
Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. Pleasant and giving aromas of cherry and sous-bois. Nicely
composed, with inviting flavors of darker cherry and red raspberry in a mid weight style that is quite
forward. Refreshing, with impeccable balance, a deft touch of oak, and some finishing intensity.
Score: 91
2014 Soter Mineral Springs Ranch Yamhill-Carlton Oregon Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., 2,400 cases, $65.
Estate grown and bottled. 30% whole cluster fermentation. 30 days extended maceration. Racked only for
assembly before bottling.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Gorgeous aromas of dark cherry,
spice, rose petal and notable oak input. Somewhat closed and still tannic, but with luscious black cherry and
spice flavors in a nicely balanced mid weight styled wine with some length on the juicy finish. Needs time to
evolve and integrate the tannins. The wine needs patience and understanding and could disappoint if you pop
the cork now.
Score: 90-92
The Lowdown on Trader Joe’s Pinot Noir
Trader Joe’s is a remarkably successful grocery store chain that as of October 28, 2016, had 460 stores with
half in California (the most located in Southern California), and the rest in 40 other states and Washington D.C..
The original Trader Joe’s was opened 49 years ago in Pasadena by Joe Coulombe and named Trader Joe’s to
evoke images of the South Seas. Today, it is owned by Germany’s Albrecht family. Total sales in 2009 were
roughly $8 billion, about the same as the Whole Foods grocery chain and was number 314 on Fortune 500 list.
Wine was originally a major part of the store’s inventory and at one time his store had one of the world’s largest
stock of California wines. I can remember back in the 1970s when Trader Joe’s had a store in Santa Ana,
California. The wine department occupied a significant part of the store and many wine aficionados, including
myself, shopped there regularly for California wine because of the large selection and reasonable prices.
Today, there is a wine department in each store with an extensive collection of domestic and foreign wines,
wine tasting bars in some stores (see photo below of store in Costa Mesa, CA), and even a free standing
Trader Joe’s Wine Shop in New York’s Union Square adjacent a Trader Joe’s Market that is very busy
according to Yelp.
There are still some mass market wines from well-known wineries offered in the wine department at Trader
Joe’s, but these are usually more expensive, making Trader Joe’s own labels seem like better deals.
The biggest selling wine by far at Trader Joe’s is Charles Shaw, produced by Bronco Wine in California, with
sales over 800 million bottles since it debuted at $1.99 in 2002. Trader Joe’s is the exclusive seller of the
Charles Shaw line of varietals (no Pinot Noir) that have become known as “Two-Buck Chuck.” The wines are
no longer priced at less than two dollars, but are still priced below three dollars a bottle.
Beyond the Charles Shaw wines, that are displayed in case boxes for easy case purchase and take out, and in
keeping with the store’s emphasis on its own brand names, many of the wines that are now stocked are offered
under Trader Joe’s own label or private labels with fetching names. Trader Joe’s is a négociant that buys wine
someone else makes and sells it under its own label. The wine may be declassified by the winery as not
meeting their highest standards, it may be excessive wine production in a certain vintage, or it may have been
produced in a manner directed by the négociant for the private label purpose. These private label wines are
sold at a significant discount as they are obtained directly from wineries without a middle distributor.
Some examples of private label Pinot Noir at Trader Joes are Cherry Blossom California Pinot Noir ($3.99,
produced by Bronco Wines), Liberté San Louis Obispo County Pinot Noir ($9.99, Malbec and Syrah added),
Moon X Black California Pinot Noir ($6.99), Cotillion Tri-County California Pinot Noir ($9.99), Green Fin
California Pinot Noir ($4.99) and VINTJS Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($8.99).
There are also Pinot Noirs bottled under the Trader Joe’s name. These wines often carry designations such as
“Reserve,” Petite Reserve,” “Grand Reserve,” and “Platinum Reserve,” with Platinum Reserve being the top of
the line and the most expensive at about $15. Reserve, of course, is an unregulated term that has no legal
definition and is essentially meaningless.
Like all products in the store offered under Trader Joe’s proprietary labels, the producer of the Trader Joe’s
private label wines is not allowed to publicize its business relationship. As pointed out in a Fortune magazine
article, www.fortune.com/2010/08/23/inside-the-secret-world-of-trader-joes/, Trader Joe’s is secretive about its
products including wine. The Albrecht family has never given a major story about their business, and Trader
Joe’s does not want its shoppers or competitors to know who makes their products.
Labels are in important in choosing wine as the more information you can gather, the better your odds of
finding a good wine at a good price. The problem is, the labels on Trader Joe’s wines offer little useful
information other than the region or appellation of origin, the ABV and occasionally the case production. The
back label may offer the words, “Vinted and bottled by,” and the name of a producer that usually has no
physical facility and means that the producer or winery on the label had little or nothing to do with making the
wine.
Deciphering the Producer of a Wine
“Produced and bottled by”: By law, 75% or more of the wine in the bottle must be made (fermented) by the producer listed on the label at the stated address.
“Made and bottled by”: At least 75% of the wine has been made (fermented by) the winery listed on the label at the stated address.
“Vinted and bottled by”: The winery on the label may have had very little to do with making the wine at the stated address.
“Cellared and bottled by”: The same as vinted in that the company or winery name on the label did not make the wine, only subjecting the wine to cellar treatment before bottling at the stated address. (Note: if a California based vintner makes a wine from the Willamette Valley of Oregon the label must say “cellared and bottled by if Willamette Valley designated, but the label can say, “produced and bottled by” if the broader Oregon AVA term is on the label)
“Cellared by or Vinted by”: The wine was aged or cellared before bottling. If the label does not have a winery of its own, it can only claim “cellared and bottled by.”
“Bottled by”: The company listed on the label did not make the wine and only bottled it at the stated address.
“Estate bottled”: The winery on the label owns or controls 100% of the grapes that went into the bottle (either the grapes are grown by the producer on its own land or from a vineyard that the winery controls 100% via a long-term lease) and the wine was crushed, fermented, finished, aged and bottled all in the same place and the place has to be located in the same viticultural area that is stated on the label.”
“Estate grown”: The winery controls all the grape growing on its land but does not ferment or bottle on its property.
Here is some advice regarding purchases of Trader Joe’s Pinot Noir (applies to other varietals as well).
(1) The Trader Joe’s labeled wines may carry a “Lot #” designation. You must pay close attention to this
number when you are repurchasing a wine you liked as the Lot # will change with each vintage and there
may be multiple lots of the same appellation Pinot Noir within a vintage.
(2) The selection of wines varies from store to store.
(3) If you find a wine you like, it is advisable to repurchase it soon as stock changes on the private labeled
wines frequently.
(4) You won’t find scores on any of the wines, only brief descriptions of the flavor profile on shelf tags. The
wines are not submitted for review or reviewed in any of the major wine publications.
(5) Don’t even think about any Pinot Noir priced less than $9.99 unless you need something to serve relatives
who know nothing about wine. The cheaper wines often have generous oak overlay in place of fruit quality.
(6) The Trader Joe’s private label wines are hit or miss. By that, I mean you will be frequently disappointed, but
you may occasionally find a good or even very good Pinot Noir in the $9.99 - $14.99 range. None of the
private label Pinot Noirs can match up with premium Pinot Noir produced by so many domestic wineries,
with most Trader Joe’s Pinot Noirs falling in the “Good” (80-85 score) category, and occasionally “Very
Good” (86-89 score) range. Most often, the Pinot Noirs bottled under the Trader Joe’s name have the best
chance of pleasing you, particularly the ones priced at $14.99. I would use the term “innocuous” or
“quaffable” for the Pinot Noirs and this is a credit to their QPR ratio.
(7) The best private label Pinot Noirs are on the first or second shelf in the wine department racks.
(8) Information on Trader Joe’s Pinot Noirs is hard to come by. Online there is the Trader Joe’s Wine Insider at
www.traderjoes.com/digin/category/WineInsider where a few wines are reviewed but only reflect a typical
retailer’s enthusiasm for every wine. Those on the Trader Joe’s mailing list, can receive the monthly
Fearless Flyer that also features a description of select wines. This is also available online at
www.traderjoes.com/fearless-flyer/category/11. There are also wine blogs such as Trader Joe’s Wine
Compendium at www.traderjoeswine.blogspot.com. You will not find in-depth information about any of the
Trader Joe’s private label wines from any source. That may not be important to you if you are only spending
$10 for a quaffable Pinot Noir.
Here are reviews of six private label Trader Joe’s Pinot Noirs that I bought at my local store (Tustin, CA) in the
past two weeks.
2014 Upper Eden Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $12.99. Produced and bottled by Upper
Eden Wines, Soledad, CA.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is not unpleasant but
offers little cheer, with only restrained aromas of cherry and rose petal. A simple wine with black cherry and
black raspberry flavors in an easily quaffable style with silky tannins and welcome balance.
Score: 86
2014 Trader Joe’s Reserve Lot #109 Arroyo Grande Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., $9.99. Vinted and bottled by
Reluctant Wine Co., Arroyo Grande, CA.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. Perfumed with aromas of black
raspberry, blackberry, spice, and vanilla, picking up more oak
notes over time in the glass. Velvety and lush on the palate,
with good fruit intensity and drive. Nicely balanced array of
purple and black fruits with a hint of oak toast and spice, finishing with
good roundness. Impressive harmony. Over delivers for the price.
Score: 88
2014 Trader Joe’s Platinum Reserve Lot #33 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 5,000 cases,
$14.99. Cellared and bottled by The Vine Intervention, Napa, CA.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Aromas of cherry and baking spices with a bit of apple core. Silky smooth on the palate in a cherrydriven
mid weight styled wine. Easy going, with gentle tannins, a shallow mid palate and a very modest finish.
Score: 85
2014 Trader Joe’s Platinum Reserve Lot #66 Carneros Napa Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 2,000 cases,
$14.99. Estate grown and produced by Eris Vineyards, Napa, CA.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Blackberry fruit aromas are accented with scents of earthy flora and toasty barrel. Highly flavorful, with
plenty of black cherry and exotic spice notes to please. The fruit is nicely framed by silky tannins and there is
noticeable length on the finish. A bit too much barrel on the nose, but the oak is better integrated on the palate.
Well worth the money.
Score: 87
2015 Trader Joe’s Grand Reserve Lot #23 Carneros Pinot Noir
13.9%, $12.99. Bottled by Carneros
Cellars, Napa, CA.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Fruity aromas of black cherry lead to a
mid weight core of black cherry fruit framed by modest tannins. Not appreciable depth or nuance, but true to
the varietal, balanced and offers a modest but pleasing finish. A decent value.
Score: 86
2015 VINTJS Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $8.99. Vinted and bottled by ABJ Wines,
Geyserville, CA.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Primarily oak-derived aromas of smoke,
mulch and graham with a slight note of cherry. Drinkable in a mid weight style, but little depth of cherry flavor,
little complexity, and sparse length on the finish. The muscular tannins are aggressive.
Score: 83
Other Pinot Noirs tasted in 2016:
2014 Cotillion California Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., $9.99. Vinted and bottled by Ashford Court, Napa, CA. 85.
2014 Sphere Monterey County Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., $6.99. Said to be crafted by “a winemaker with deep
roots in California wine country.” 87.
2014 Trader Joe’s Grand Reserve Lot #57 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., $14.99. Cellared
and bottled by DNA Vineyards, Ukiah, CA. 88.
The best Trader Joe’s private label Pinot Noir I have tasted in the past two years is one I reviewed in April of
this year. It is still available at Trader Joe’s.
2014 Ocean View San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $14.99. Produced and bottled by Sinor-LaVallee in
Arroyo Grande by noted winemaker Mike Sinor for Trader Joe’s
markets. Sourced from the Estate Ocean View Vineyard
located only 1.3 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose
opens nicely with swirling, offering engaging aromas of dark red and
black berries, spice, briar and a subtle salinity. A giving and satisfying
mid weight wine with flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, spice and
anise framed by ruddy tannins. Silky on the palate with good cut, subtle
oak seasoning, and a satisfying finish with some length. Still highly
enjoyable the following day from a previously opened and re-corked
bottle. This wine could easily bring three times the price.
Score: 90
Pinot Briefs
Shadows in the Vineyard: The True Story of the Plot to Poison the World’s
Greatest Wine The title describes the theme of this fascinating book, but there is considerably more
content than the sinister plot to poison vines in the Romanée-Conti Vineyard for ransom in 2010. The book also
details the complex history of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in a thoroughly researched vivid account that
will captivate anyone who has even a passing notion about this revered Burgundy Domaine and its famed
proprietor, Aubert de Villaine. I couldn’t put the book down. Paperback, 289 pages, 2014, $16.
2017 World of Pinot Noir All tickets are now on sale for the 2017 World of Pinot Noir, March 3-4, at the
Bacara Resort & Spa, Santa Barbara. Taste wines from over 200 wineries hailing from Burgundy, New
Zealand, Oregon, and all major Pinot Noir growing regions of California. Two days of tastings, seminars and
dinners: Hirsch Seminar and Tasting, Kosta Browne 20th Anniversary Dinner, Louis Latour Tasting & Dinner,
Rosé Lunch, Edna Valley Winery Collective Dinner, Sparkling Brunch, Cheese Seminar featuring Sonoma
Wines, Vintage Burgundy Dinner with the Guild of Sommeliers, Rock Stars of Pinot Noir featuring Merry
Edwards, Hitching Post Vertical Tasting & Barbecue, Friday and Saturday Grand Tastings. Purchase tickets
now at www.worldofpinotnoir.com. Weekend passes are $1,150, but tickets may also be obtained for individual
events over the weekend.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards Closes Freestone Guest Center Hospitality efforts have now
been focused exclusively on the recently renovated historic winery in St. Helena, Napa Valley. The guest center
in Freestone, CA, will close effective January 1, 2017. Phelps is fully committed to the winemaking facility and
estate vineyards in Freestone. Joseph Phelps Vineyards in Napa Valley is open seven days a week by prior
appointment, offering a variety of wine tasting experiences. Visit the website for information at
www.JosephPhelps.com.
2016 Harvest in California Promising The 2016 wine harvest offered average yields but
exceptional fruit according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture. The Wine Institute reported a
mostly normal yield of exceptional quality throughout the state. Welcome winter rains helped to minimize the
impact of the drought on wine grape crops. The state’s 2016 wine grape crop is expected to be about 3.9
million tons. Like vintage 2015, the harvest started early and finished early. California shipped an all-time high
of 229 million cases to the rest of the United States, representing a 60% share of the United States wine
market. An additional 47 million cases shipped to global markets, with the European Union being the top
destination of wine exports. California wine contributes $57.6 billion annually to the state economy and $114
billion annually to the United States economy. (Photo of harvest worker: GRose & CaliforniaWine Institute).
Sunlight Into Wine In the United States, the average 750 ml bottle of wine costs $15.23 according to
SHAREaCAMPER Wine Price Index of 66 countries.
Wine Deal Advisor No one has time to scour the internet for the best deals on wine. That’s where Wine
Deal Advisor comes in, launched by a long time reader of the PinotFile. The website at
www.WineDealAdvisor.com provides wine buying advice and wine deal purchase recommendations to
consumers. Every day, Rick Dyer and his partner reviews the wine deals available from retailers across the
U.S. and then provides analysis of each deal along with recommendations on which deals to buy and which
deals to skip and why. Subscribers are also given the capability to search for the exact wine deals they want
based on any combination of location, varietal, winery, wine scores, price, or percentage discount. Rick does
not sell wine or benefit in any way from what or where a wine is bought so the reviews are totally objective.
Subscriptions are priced at $24.95 for 6 months or $39.95 for 12 months. A 10-day Free Trial is also available.
Besides the subscription service, the site also offers a list of recommended wines, wineries and vintages. It is
called “Rick’s Picks,” and is available to view or download at no charge to anyone who visits the website.
Freeman & August West Wine Cruise Ken Freeman of Freeman Vineyard & Winery and cohost
Ed Kurtzman of August West Wines invite friends, family and fans on a Food & Wine Trails 7-day private cruise
from Barcelona to Rome aboard Oceania Cruises’ Riviera in May, 2017. The cruise will offer private tastings
and comparisons of Freeman and August West wines with the wines of Spain, France and Italy. There will also
be a welcome reception and winemakers’ dinner. Optional wine related shore tours are also offered. For further
information or to book your stateroom, call Food & Wine Trails at 800-367-5348.
MacPhail Converts Winery to Custom Crush Facility In late 2016, James announced that
he was converting his Healdsburg winemaking facility into a custom crush facility called Grapewagon Custom
Crush. At least 13 vintners will produce wine here, including the MacPhail's own Tongue Dancer Wines Pinot
Noir brand. James MacPhail no longer works for the MacPhail Family Wines brand that is owned by The Hess
Collection. Colin MacLauchlan was hired to oversee crush operations. Colin was previously the cellarmaster at
Littorai Wines and has been an assistant winemaker at Zepaltas Wines in Santa Rosa.
Pali Wine Co. Opens Tasting Room in San Diego Pali Wine Co., a producer of Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay premium and value-priced appellation wines from California and Oregon, has opened a tasting
room in San Diego’s Little Italy district located at 2130 India Street. The tasting room features Pali’s diverse
lineup of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, as well as Rhone and Bordeaux varietals from grapes grown in the
Central Coast and bottled under the sister label, Tower 15. Also, a rotating selection of eight wines, blended
straight from barrel to keg, are available for tasting or for carry out by growler. To accompany the wines, Pali
offers creative small plate menu using seasonal and locally sourced produce whenever possible. The new
tasting room is open daily. Pali Wine Co. also has tasting venues in Lompoc and downtown Santa Barbara’s
Funk Zone. The winemaker is Aaron Walker and consulting winemaker is Kenneth Juhasz. Visit
www.paliwineco.com.
2017 International Pinot Noir Celebration
2017 International Pinot Noir Celebration
The 31st annual International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) will be held July 28-30 in McMinnville
Oregon. The theme will be “The French Adventurers: Burgundians Making Pinot Noir in Oregon.” Eric
Asimov of The New York Times will moderate the Grand Seminar which will include the following
panelists: Dominque Lafon (Lingua Franca), Véronique Boss-Drouhin (Domaine Drouhin Oregon),
Jacques Lardiére (Résonance), Jean-Nicolas Méo (Domaine Nicolas-Jay) and Alexandrine Roy (Phelps
Creek Vineyards). IPNC is an annual rite of pilgrimage for lovers of Pinot Noir who revel in three days of
exquisite meals, seminars, tastings and celebrating with fellow Pinot geeks. Early Bird Pricing ($100 off
weekend tickets) ends December 31, 2016. Visit www.ipnc.org to confirm your place at the Celebration
and see the featured wineries from North America, Europe and the Southern Hemisphere. Lodging
arrangements should be made well in advance as space fills up quickly. See you there!
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