2005 Hahn Estates Monterey Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 22,000 cases, $23. The Hahn Estates is located on the Monterey Coast in the Santa Lucia Highlands and sources grapes from estate owned vineyards and non-winery owned vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco appellations of Monterey County. Nicolaus Hahn is a Swiss businessman who became enamored with California wine and purchased the Smith & Hook Winery in 1980. In 1991 he created the Hahn Estate brand. In German, Hahn means “rooster,” and the rooster is prominently displayed on the Hahn Estate label. In 2000, the winery and vineyards underwent a large-scale renovation under the direction of president Bill Leigon. The winery’s labels now include Hahn Estate, Smith & Hook, Red Flyer and Cycles Gladiator (HRM Rex Goliath was sold to Constellation Brands in 2005). The current winemaker is Adam LaZarre and consulting enologist is Barry Gnekow. This wine won Best of Class at the California State Fair. Winemaking is traditional and aging is carried out in new and neutral French oak for 10 months. The fruit for this wine came from the Santa Lucia Highlands. · Lovely, clean aromatics of fresh cherries and strawberries. Red fruit driven with deft use of oak, a pillowy texture, and perfect balance. I plan to make this my house Pinot. Astonishing quality at this production level and price point. The 2006 vintage was tasted by another panel and equally well-received.

2006 San Saba Monterey Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 600 cases, $28.95. Founded by Mack and Barbara Lemmen in 1975, this winery has been making wines in small amounts since 1981 - who knew? They farm a 70-acre vineyard which lies up against the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County. Wines from the best blocks of the vineyard are bottled under the San Saba “Lions” label, and the remainder of the estate-grown grapes go into a second label, Bocage, made in an easy-drinking style. This wine is the second release of San Saba Pinot Noir. The vintage was extremely prolonged, with harvest extending into mid-November. Clones are 115, 667, 777 and Pommard 4. Aging was carried out in 50% new and 50% neutral oak barrels. The winemaker is Sabrine Rodems. · The nose is intriguing with scents of cherries, violets and a hint of oak and iodine. Demure red fruits are presented in a lighter style with plenty of finesse. Nice soft texture, lively acidity and on point balance.

2005 Windward Vineyard Gold Barrel Select Paso Robles Westside

14.1% alc., 250 cases, $60. Owners Marc Goldberg and Maggie D’Ambrosia purchased 25 acres of rolling hills off Highway 46, west of Highway 101 near Templeton. The site’s rocky limestone, sloping well-drained soil and location the Templeton Gap seemed ideal for Pinot Noir. They cleared the land (previously a rhododendron farm) and planted 10 acres of Pinot Noir in 1990. The four clonal selections chosen were HMR (Paso Robles), Adelsheim (Oregon), Bien Nacido and Sanford & Benedict. Goldberg’s reverence for Burgundy has led him to style his wines in an Old World fashion and his label proudly displays the word monopole (monopole is a Burgundian concept which means the vineyard has one owner and both viticulture and vinification are handled under one roof). The first vintage of 320 cases was 1993 and Windward Vineyard Pinot Noirs have received many accolades since. · Charming perfume of red cherries, strawberries, oak and Xmas spice. Tasty cherry attack which persists with a clean and tangy finish and suede-like tannins.

2005 Windward Vineyard Gold Barrel Select Paso Robles Westside Pinot Noir

250 cases, $54 · A flashy spice box surrounds the nose with cinnamon and clove. The spice theme carries over to the redder fruits on the palate. Hard to spit out..

2006 Girasole Mendocino Organic Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., 9000 cases, $15. Born to Italian immigrants, Charlie Barra planted the home ranch Redwood Valley Vineyards in Mendocino County in 1955 and has farmed 200 acres of vineyards since. He was an innovator (first to use water for over-head frost protection in Mendocino) and an activist (fought for state regulations that changed the way farmers are paid for grapes). BARRA of Mendocino brand was started in 1997 and Girasole (“jee-ra-sol-ay”) in 2001. All wines are estate grown and from organic-certified grapes. · A very pretty nose of red raspberries, strawberries and violets. Clean red fruits and well-integrated tannins. A wine of appealing harmony.

2004 David Bruce Tondre’s Grapefield Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot

14.8% alc.,55 cases, $45 Despite very large production (60,000 cases), this Santa Cruz Mountains winery continues to craft very attractive Pinot Noirs. David Bruce was a true Pinot Noir pioneer in California, and although not heavily involved in the winery now, his family has carried on admirably. The winery was bonded in 1964 and the estate vineyard in Los Gatos has 9 acres planted to Pinot Noir at 2,200 feet. Grapes are sourced from all over California. The winemaker since 2004 is Mitri Faravashi. · Enticing aromatics of black cherry and cola with a hint of farmyard. Spiced cherry compote lingers on the palate for an eternity. Velvety texture and perfect balance. A queen bee.

2006 Ventana Vineyards Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 1,800 cases, $28. Ventana Vineyards, founded by former Navy pilot, Doug Meader, was one of the pioneering wineries in Monterey County, and can now celebrate 30 years of winemaking. Over these years, Ventana has become “The Most Award-Winning Single Vineyard in America.” Ventana is a Spanish word for window so-named because the vineyard abuts the Ventana Wilderness and symbolizes a “window to the future in viticulture.” The current winemaker is Reggie Hammond. The Arroyo Seco region is one of eight AVAs in Monterey County and lies between Soledad and King City, straddling Highway 101. Its neighbor is the more famous Santa Lucia Highlands appellation. · Spiced cherry with a sidecar of oak on the nose leading to nicely-weighted fruits including cherries and red berries, all enhanced by Xmas spice and deft use of oak. Reminds me of a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Quite a charmer.

2006 Robert Stemmler Nugent Vineyard Russian River Valley

14.6% alc., 2200 cases, $40. This is one of three excellent Robert Stemmler Pinot Noirs crafted by winemaker Kenneth Juhasz, the 32-yearold wonder kind behind Donum Estate and Auteur Pinot Noirs. The Nugent Vineyard is an 11-acre site P,anted to Dijon Clones. · Hard to stop smelling this voluptuous Pinot extract which is very haunting and sexy. A fruit-driven wine that is juicy, succulent, long and smooth. Pinpoint balance. Very Caliesque.

2005 Row Eleven Wine Co Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

15.3% alc., 800 cases, $36. Founded by Richard de los Reyes (“Ricardo D” to his colleagues) several years ago, the name comes from searching for the best rows from the best blocks from the best vineyards. Row Eleven is a unique Multi-Alternating Proprietor or MAP that utilizes several winery facilities, each specializing in a particular variety, in contrast to having one central facility to process grapes. The finest vineyards are then linked to these specialized wineries. Reyes crushes only the best rows, uses whole berries and ferments 10° cooler than most other winemakers. His style is fruit-forward. The grapes for this wine are from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, Dijon clones 115, 667, 777 and Pommard. · Darker fruits, particularly black cherries run through this wine from start to finish. The demurely presented fruit has plenty of finesse and the alcohol, which is nicely integrated, creates a sweet note and a velvety texture.

2006 Ardiri Estate Grown Napa Carneros Pinot Noir

14.2% alc.,560 cases, $45. This is a new project produced and bottled by Gypsy Dancer Estates in Oregon for Ardiri. The name is Sicilian for “taking a risk” and can also mean “being consumed by fire.” The Carneros vineyard contains Dijon clones 115, 667, 777, 828 and rare Heirloom selections. · My highest scoring wine of the tasting competition. Beautiful and complex aromatics featuring ripe red cherry, red berry, floral notes, oak, char and a hint of allspice. Spiced cherries carry the attack with a hint of oak and herbs. The mouth feel is creamy, there is a healthy tannin structure, and the finishing spicy kick is lingering and memorable.

2005 Robledo Family Winery Los Carneros Pinot Noir

$35. Reynaldo Robledo Sr. came to California from Michoacan, Mexico in 1968 at the age of 16, and along with several relatives, began to work in the vineyards pruning vines. He quickly advanced himself, managing crews of workers within a year. Eventually he became vineyard manager for large vineyards and in 1996 formed his own vineyard management company, Robledo Vineyard Management. In 1997, he released 100 cases of wine under the Robledo Family Winery name, the first Mexican migrant worker to establish his own winery. Today, his seven sons and two daughters work in the business and production is 12,000 cases of wine a year. Through the years, he purchased several vineyards and now owns 220 acres in Napa, Sonoma, and Lake counties. · Dark Pinot fruits, primarily black raspberry, and oak lead off followed by more luscious dark fruits front and center. Tannins are well-concealed. A long, scented fresh berry aftertaste is memorable.

2006 Longboard Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 1053 cases, $28. This unique winery has the motto, “wine, waves and soul.” Surfer, winegrower and winemaker Oded Shakked is the co-owner with Robert Watkins and Bruce Lundquist. Shakked was formerly the winemaker at J Winery and Vineyards. He left in 2005 to start his own label and downsized to a production level of 10,000 cases. The label has actually been producing wines since 1998, but the 2006 vintage is the first for a Pinot Noir. Grapes are sourced from the O’Neil Vineyard and Wohler Bridge Vineyard, both in the Russian River Valley. · Confected cherries and cola dominate the aromas. Elegant in style, the flavors echo the aromas. The finish is pleasing with fine-grained, slightly drying tannins.

2004 Patz & Hall Chenoweth Ranch Russian RiverValley Pinot Noir

692 $47 A joint effort between winemakers James Hall and Anne Moses and the sales and marketing team of Donald and Heather Patz. This is the first release from this vineyard located in the hills above Green Valley in Sonoma County. The planting is all Dijon clones. I tasted this wine on several occasions in the last year without much of an impression for me, but now it has finally come around. · Red fruits and a bouquet of roses in the nose. An earthy wine tasting of wood-framed red cherries and red raspberries. A bit muscular but tannins are svelte.

2004 Domenico Wines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 2000 cases, $36. Owner and winemaker Dominick Chirichille (Dominic in Italian) has an ambitious lineup of multiple varietals he produces from his winery on the San Francisco Peninsula. Since beginning in 2005, the winery has won multiple awards in competitions. Grapes are sourced from the Santa Cruz Mountains and other California appellations. · Exotic woods and red fruits entice. Baking spices, including cinnamon, and red cherries and oak lead the parade. Mildly drying tannins characterize the finish.

2004 Sojourn Cellars Sangiacomo Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Owner Craig Hasserot and winemaker Erich Bradley craft this excellent Pinot Noir that has been reviewed in the PinotFile favorably in the past. Tasting the wine in a blind lineup confirms my previous attraction to it. · This wine has shed some weight since last tasted and is quite lovely now. Plenty of flamboyant oak and smoke in the nose. Plush soft fruits leaning toward the red side with cinnamon spice. Elegant in style with lively acidity on the finish.

2006 Babcock Winery &Vineyards Grand Cuvée Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.3% alc.,950 cases, $40. Bryan Babcock has been crafting wines from his family-owned winery in the Sta. Rita Hills appellation of Santa Barbara County since 1989. He has won many awards, including being named by the James Beard Foundation as one of the “Top 10 Small Production Winemakers in the World.” This wine is 85% Babcock Estate Pinot Noir, 14% Rabbit Ridge Vineyard Paso Robles Pinot Noir and 1% Syrah. Aged for 10 months in 44% new French oak. · The aromas are very earthy, damp and funky. Delicious cherry fruit with sidecar notes of spice and organic matter. The lively finish is very refreshing and urges the drinker to sip on.

2005 Flying Goat Cellars Dierberg Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 425 cases, $42. Norm Yost produces small lots of several Pinot Noirs from vineyards in Santa Barbara County and San Luis Obispo County. He is a true garagiste with a small winery in the Lompoc “wine ghetto.” He has been at it for many years, knows what he is doing, and his wines have been consistently fine in recent years. · Nice clean mineral infused cherry fruit on the entry which follows through to the finish. Not particularly complex but well-crafted, harmonious and easy to drink.

2005 LaZarre Hahn Estates Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 275 cases, $50. Adam LaZarre is a former Navy radar specialist who developed a fondness for wine while in the Navy. After his college training at Fresno State, he was brought on board at Hahn Estates in 2001 to revamp and revitalize the brand. He quickly brought the Hahn Estates lineup of wines many accolades and along with Paul Clifton, he proceeded to develop the wildly successful Rex Goliath brand which sold to Constellation Wines for $30 million dollars. The two of them then went to work developing the Cycles Gladiator label. LaZarre produces a small amount of two Pinot Noirs under his own name with grapes sourced from Bien Nacido Vineyard and Sierra Madre Vineyard. · Complex scents of cherry, oak, cardamom, and iodine. Plenty of sweet and racy red Pinot fruits with plenty of lift and lively acidity on the finish. A great food wine.

2006 Rodney Strong Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $22 This is one of those venerable long-standing labels you often see in the supermarket but pay little attention to. Times have changed, and these two wines indicate that this winery is producing Russian River Valley Pinot Noir that is both distinctive and qualitatively outstanding. Rodney Strong was among the first modern wine pioneers in the Russian River Valley, planting his River East Vineyard in 1968. The current owner is Tom Klein. The winemakers are Rick Seyre and Gary Patzwald and the viticulturalist is Douglas Mcilroy. This wine is 97% Pinot Noir and 3% Syrah. · Rich, bright fruity perfume with lovely spice and cherry flavors, an oak sidecar, and a healthy tannic backbone. This wine will benefit from more time in the bottle.

2005 Rodney Strong Reserve Jane’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., $45. The grapes are from a more recent planting of Pinot Noir in honor of owner Tom Klein’s mother. · A veritable spice cabinet in the nose along with crushed cherries and a hint of toast. Nicely weighted and balanced, this easy drinker has plenty of spiced cherry, clove and oak flavors with a tart finish.

2005 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 475 cases, $60. Way too young to drink now and thus still unreleased. · Tempting deep, dark fruits which are still engulfed by oak. Plenty of earthy spirit with a citrus lift on the lingering finish.

2005 Robert Stemmler Carneros Estate Grown Carneros Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 4,800 cases, $36. · Oak, herbs, smoke and cherries are featured in the nose with lightly spiced red fruits and oak on the palate ending with a short finish

2004 Clouds Rest Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 490 cases, $100. A lot of disagreement on this wine among tasters. Some liked it, others scored it very low. There will be few takers at this price. · Raspberries and strawberries with noticeable oak and herbs in the aromatics. Plenty of bold fruit and oak, finishing woody and tangy.

2006 Five Rivers Winery Central Coast Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., 47,000 cases, $13. A value-play Pinot Noir from the Brown-Forman lineup of wines. Grapes are sourced from select vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Widely available in supermarkets. A good daily drinker. · Light in color. Confected cherry aromas. Full Pinot fruit flavors which are a bit tart. Nice spice component. 8998 North River Road, Paso Robles.

2005 Prodigal Wines Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 275 cases, $36. The first appellation release from this new producer. · Sexy aromatics of red Pinot fruits, violet and subtle oak spice. Elegantly styled. Decent fruit on the attack which fades a bit on the back end. Easy to drink, just wish for more on the finish. A producer to watch with great promise.

2006 G. Gauthier Cellars Rockin’ H Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

400 cases, $30 · A lot going on in the nose with oak spice, char, strawberries and mineral notes. Strawberry flavors carry through with a hint of bitterness on the finish. Quite decent. No contact information.

2005 Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

3350 cases, $20. A partnership formed in 1996 between Royce Lewellen and Louis Lucas, Dan Gehrs crafts the wines from estate vineyards at a winery in Buellton. · Light in color. Scents of barnyard and red Pinot fruits. Light and soft on the palate with lively acidity on the finish. Understated but attractive. Showing better than last year.

2005 Mahoney Vineyards Las Brisas Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir

325 cases, $36. Francis Mahoney has 35 years of experience growing grapes and making wine in Carneros. · A very sensual offering in the glass with cherry pie and spice interest. Decent red fruits, but rather simple and lacking punch and fullness on the mid palate. The nose trumps the flavors.

2006 Mark West California Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., $14. 56% Central Coast, 16% Sonoma County, 12% Mendocino County, 4% Napa County, and 12% other. · Red fruits, spice, oak char and smoke on the nose and echoed in the flavors. Silky, light and easy to drink. Plenty of pinotosity. The fruit lacks punch and is shallow on the palate and on the back end but I have tasted a lot worse for three times the price.