2013 Boedecker Cellars Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $20, screwcap. Native fermentation, hand punch downs, aged 9 months in French oak barrels, 6 months on the lees with stirring. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Lovely aromas of red cherry, spice, dried herbs, earthy flora and redwood log. Light in weight but flavorful, with tastes of red cherries and berries and blueberry that are earth-kissed. Very elegant, with a deft touch of oak in the background and gossamer tannins. The wine does not have a bevy of nuance, but is very like able. A perfect everyday table wine crafted in a classic Oregon style. Score: 90

2013 Boedecker Cellars Stewart Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., 900 cases, $36, screwcap. Release March 2016. A blend from Carlton Hill, Cherry Grove, Finigan Hill, Hirschy, Shea and Stoller vineyards. Winemaker Stewart Boedecker’s favorite barrel selections. 25% whole cluster, native yeast fermentation, 18 months in French oak barrels with lees stirring (first 9 months in a mix of new, once and twice-filled and neutral barrels, last 9 months in neutral barrels). Bottle aged 4 to 6 months before release. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Inviting aromas of cherry, rose petal and woodland lead to a mid weight styled wine with impressive mid palate presence and finish. The core of cherry and ripe strawberry fruit flavors is accented with notes of interesting spices including cinnamon. The tannins are suave, the acidity is bright, and the overall impression is one of complete harmony. A masterful cuvée. Score: 93

2014 Broadley Vineyards Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., 3,000 cases, $20. A blend of fruit from several highly regarded vineyards. 100% de-stemmed, wild yeast fermentation, aged 9-10 months in neutral French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose leads with a mixture of dark berry and woodland aromas. Upon entry, their is literally an explosion of fruit goodness, including flavors of black cherry, blueberry and pomegranate. Despite the charge of sappy fruit, the wine retains good balance with supporting tannins, fresh acidity and a touch of oak. The fruit-driven finish is unusually long for an appellation blend. I liked this wine more over time in the glass. A welcome value. Score: 90

2014 Broadley Vineyards Rocky Hill Vineyard Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $30. This vineyard is located in the Eola-Amity Hills, owned by John and Kathy Zelko, and managed by Leigh Bartholomew. 30% whole cluster. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very shy aromas of dark fruits and seasoned oak lead to a silky platform of very tasty cherry and red berry fruits with a compliment of spice. Elegantly styled, with comforting balance and welcoming persistence of a red berry medley on the finish. Score: 90

2014 Broadley Vineyards Shea Vineyard Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., 250 cases, $50. Clones 777 and Wädenswil. 40% whole cluster, wild yeast fermentation in 3-ton open-top Taransaud wood fermenter for 14 to 21 days, aged 12 months in 30% new and 70% neutral Francois Frères French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Haunting aromas of black fruits, forest floor and violets. Mid weight flavors of dark red and black fruits with muscular tannins. The wine lacks subtlety upon opening, but the charming fruit emerges over time in the glass. Nicely crafted, with deft integration of oak, this wine needs a few years in the cellar. Score: 92

2014 Broadley Vineyards Estate Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 800 cases, $30. A blend of Pommard, Dijon 115, 667, and 777, and Wädenswil clones from various blocks including the oldest planted in 1981. 90% de-stemmed, wild yeast fermentation in open-top fermenters, aged 12 months in Francois Frères French oak barrels, 15% new and balance 1 to 2-year-old. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Hi-tone aromas of blueberry, black raspberry, spice and iron set the stage for the delicious core of well-spiced cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. Structured, but balanced, with a satiny texture and a finish that clings to the palate for what seems like a minute. The most gracious wine tasted here from Broadley blessed with a grand cru finish. Spot on. Score: 94

2012 Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvée Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.6%, 7,739 cases, $45. A blend of grapes from the Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills and Yamhill-Carlton AVAs, all part of Yamhill County. Aged 13 months in French oak barrels, 47% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A fresh, forward wine that is eager to please with aromas and flavors of cherry, red berry, spice and a modest grip of oak. Lighter in weight, with lacy tannins, the wine is nicely balanced and offers a burst of cherry on the finish. The least extracted offering in the 2012 lineup, but a solid everyday drinking wine that will please at the table. Score: 89

2012 Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 7,982 cases, $70. The winery’s flagship bottling that represents a consistent blend from premier vineyards in the Dundee Hills and Eola-Amity Hills. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 65% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The spirited berry fruits are overlaid with significant oak top notes of coffee and char more noticeable on the nose than on the palate. That said, the oak is not drying. The majestic assorted red and black berry fruit flavors are offered in a mid weight plus style embellished with pleasing spice notes and framed by integrated tannins. Easy to like, with plenty of swagger, boasting a satiny mouthfeel and some finishing exuberance. This wine will appeal to those who enjoy a prominent, but not overbearing oak influence. Score: 91

2012 Domaine Serene Côte Sud Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

13.7%, 384 cases, $90. Estate grown, produced and bottled. One of seven Evenstad Estate vineyards. 24 acres (19 acres of Pinot Noir), dry-farmed, south-facing, 600 to 680 feet elevation, closely planted in Jory soil. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of boysenberry, blackberry, cardamom spice, and char. The mid weight core of black fruits is complimented by notes of anise, black tea, tobacco and herbs. The fruit has impressive beauty of flavor, although the oak overlay is a bit aggressive for me. The wine finishes with plenty of resonant fruit fragrance. Score: 91

2012 Domaine Serene Fleur de Lis Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 132 cases, $85 (member exclusive). Estate grown, produced and bottled. One of seven dry-farmed estate vineyards located on a hilltop at 720 to 740 feet elevation. Closely planted Dijon clones in Jory soil. An important component of the Evenstad Reserve bottling. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 66% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Vigorous aromas of cherry reduction sauce, strawberry, earthy flora and oak spice lead off. Very elegant in the mouth, with ebullient flavors of dark red and blue berries accented by a deft touch of sweet oak. Impressive acid-driven juiciness, cashmere tannins and good finishing length. Somewhat delicate yet powerfully flavored, this wine is full of sunlight, and exudes harmony and class. Still exceptional the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, taking on a darker fruit profile and maintaining its regal aura. Score: 94

2012 Domaine Serene Winery Hill Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 314 cases, $90 (member exclusive). Estate grown, produced and bottled. Sourced from a 20-acre, dry-farmed, south and west facing vineyard closely planted to several Dijon clones in Jory soil at 800 to 900 feet elevation (highest elevation on the Estate). Planted in 2000 while the winery was under construction. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 57% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Initial conservative aromas of darker cherry, woodland and musk blossom over time in the glass adding inviting scents of baking spices, potpourri and dark berries. Very enchanting on the palate, with a mid weight core of black cherry, black raspberry and blackberry fruit flavors dressed in subtle oak seasoning. Silky in the mouth, with matched intricate tannins, and juicy acidity that infuses the finish with lip-smacking brightness. Still very appealing the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 92

2012 Domaine Serene Jerusalem Hill Vineyard Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 434 cases, $90. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 47% new. Estate grown, produced and bottled. Vineyard is located in Yamhill County’s Eola-Amity Hills. Assorted clones of Pinot Noir are closely planted in sedimentary soil in an east-facing site located at 200 to 300 feet elevation. · Demure aromas of berry jam, exotic tea and sandalwood need time in the glass to emerge. Darker fruits are featured in a middleweight style including blackberry and black raspberry flavors highlighted by a tug of char-driven oak. This wine has noticeably more tannic grip but it is not overwrought. The finish is particularly memorable in this wine for its extended length and opulence. When tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle, the nose was still shy, but the fruit core was even more giving. A good cellar candidate. Score: 92

2012 Domaine Serene Two Barns Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., 422 cases, $90. Estate grown, produced and bottled. Sourced from a 38-acre vineyard located on the west side of Dundee Hills. Dry-farmed, west and south-facing, closely planted in sedimentary soils of Willakenzie series. Aged 17 months in French oak barrels, 60% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose presents an inviting marriage of baked cherry and seasoned oak aromas. Impressive depth of fruit, showing flavors of dark red cherries and berries with a touch of spice and oak. Intense attack, attention-getting mid palate presence, and a generous finish that exudes luscious cherry fruit. A dreamy wine with cohesive tannins and acidity and exemplary Dundee Hills character. Score: 93

2012 Domaine Serene Mark Bradford Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 344 cases, $125. Named after Ken and Grace Evenstad’s son and was the first Pinot Noir vineyard planted at Domaine Serene. Estate grown, produced and bottled. Vineyard is one of seven estate vineyards. Dry-farmed, west-facing hillside site at 650 to 750 feet elevation closely planted to several clones of Pinot Noir in Jory soil. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 74% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A slowly evolving, but exceptional nose, offering aromas of cherry tart, raspberry jam, earth and tobacco. The mid weight plus core of black cherry and black raspberry fruits attack with a fury and sustain a presence that really alerts the senses. A somewhat muscular and aggressively styled wine that nonetheless reflects its Pinot Noir genetics and remains silky in its demeanor. The plucky tannins are well balanced as is the smart new oak and the deliciously spicy and berry-fueled finish leaves a memorable impression. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine was notable for its seamless character. Score: 94

2012 Domaine Serene Grace Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 340 cases, $175. Estate grown, produced and bottled. One of seven vineyards of the Evenstad Estate. Dry-farmed, east-facing, situated at 540 to 640 feet elevation, with Jory soils. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose extends a number of nuances, including aromas of an array of black and purple stone and berry fruits, spice, bacon and even a floral note. Clearly a classy wine on entry, offering well ripened heady black fruits that are deep on the mid palate, and underpinned by fine-grain tannins, juicy acidity, and compliments of oak-driven toast and black tea flavors. Packed with flavor, but light as a ballerina on its feet, this beauty has a very comforting texture. A very long and expansive finish completes the enjoyment of this majestic wine. Score: 94

2013 Lenné Estate Le Nez Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., pH 3.72, TA 0.54, RS <0.05, $30. A blend of five clones in the estate vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Like a cabin in the forest, this nose is quite woodsy, with aromas of bark, smoke, spice and black cherry. A bit lean, but offering some gratifying flavors of griotte cherry, raspberry and spice. Forward, early drinking with modest tannins and some cherry-fueled finish. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the fruit flavors had picked up a little intensity, but a green thread lurked in the background. Score: 88

2013 Lenné Estate Estate Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.56, RS <0.05, $45. A selection of the best barrels from the estate vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A shy nose offers primarily earthy and mulch aromas with some dark fruits emerging with swirling. Much more impressive on the palate with a mid weight plus charge of luscious black cherry and black raspberry fruits, nicely spiced and oak-tinged. Impressive fullness in the mid palate with good generosity on the finish. Seemingly reluctant, the wine opened up the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, showing more aromatic brilliance, and more transparent fruit and spice on the palate. Score: 91-92

2013 Lenné Estate Karen’s Pommard Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.76, TA 0.57, RS <0.05, $55. Single clone Pommard from estate vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Deep perfume of crushed black cherries with an echo of sandalwood on the nose. The strong attack of mid weight dark cherry, cola and spice flavors grab on to and persist on the palate, carrying over to a glorious finish that treats the drinker with an interplay of cherry and spice goodness. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the nose was exuberant, and the flavor profile still charming, with a savory herbal note in the background. Score: 91-92

2013 Lenné Estate Eleanor’s 114 Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.72, TA 0.52, RS <0.02, $55. Single clone Dijon 114 from estate vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is quite floral, with added aromas of cherry and nutty oak. Like cherry pie day at cooking school, the red cherry and baking spice flavors predominate. The tannins are soft and well managed, and the tight, lip-smacking finish featuring cinnamon spice and cherry is tantalizing. The wine needs a little time to shed some oak overlay, but otherwise is a real charmer. Score: 92-93

2013 Lenné Estate Jill’s 115 Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.75, TA 0.52, $55. Single clone Dijon 115 from estate vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Extravagant aromas of cherry and earthy flora lead to a middleweight styled wine featuring juicy flavors of black cherry, blueberry and pomegranate. Lively and bright, with fine grain tannins and an uplifting finish replete with cherry liquor goodness. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine’s elegance was on full display and the wholesome marriage of fruit and savory notes was uplifting. Score: 92-93

2013 Lenné Estate Kill Hill Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.66, TA 0.56, RS <0.05, $55. Sourced from the most challenging part of the vineyard and composed of clones 667 and 114. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose was lacking in fruit, offering a display of floral, vegetal and rusty iron aromas. A very earthy and mineral-infused wine with a riper fruit profile of purple and black berries and even raisins. Nicely balanced with a silky mouthfeel, but the ripeness didn’t appeal. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had a vegetal undertone. Score: 88-89

2012 Bohème Stuller Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 472 cases, $53. This 6-acre vineyard dates to 1998 and is located amidst the redwoods at 1,200 feet elevation with views of the Pacific Ocean 6.4 miles away. Clone 115 is planted in clay loam and 667 in gravelly hilltop soils. Yield 1.8 tons per acre. Aged 20 months in once to four times used French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nuanced aromatic profile satisfies, with scents of black cherry, sarsaparilla, pine needle and sandy loam. Pleasingly silky and slightly viscous on the palate which features mid weight dark red and black cherry, black raspberry and cola flavors with an earthy undertone. Opens nicely in the glass over time, displaying commendable harmony and some finishing length marked by uplifting acidity. Score: 92

2012 Bohème English Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 766 cases, $49. This 8.5-acre vineyard is located at the southwestern edge of the Sebastopol Hills overlooking the Russian River Valley and Marin Coast. Yields 2.81 tons per acre. A barrel selection from clones 115, 667, Vosne-Romanee, BRC and Calera harvested and fermented separately. Aged 21 months in neutral French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely aromas of black cherry, raspberry, woodland and cherry leather. The wine’s flavors echo the nose with a perfectly ripened fruit profile. There is a slight smoky note in the background conferred on the wine by oak. The wine offers boundless elegance and a gratifying finish. Score: 91

2012 Bohème Taylor Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 305 cases, $55. This vineyard is located on a bluff 4.8 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean at 915 feet elevation. Swan selection is planted in sandy loam Goldridge soils. Yields 2.15 tons per acre. Aged 20 months in once to three times used French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish purple hue in the glass. The highly expressive nose offers a perfume of red cherry, cake spice, rose petal and sandalwood. Plenty of luscious cherry goodness engages the mid palate in a polished, elegantly style wine with refined tannins and integrated acidity. A compliment of baking spices is enmeshed. This is a very classy wine with pinpoint balance and a vivacious charge of cherry hanging on at the finish. Score: 93

2013 Donum Single Vineyard Estate Grown Carneros Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., pH 3.78, TA 0.59, 650 cases, $72. Sourced from the best blocks of the estate 70-acre vineyard and includes a selection of the most appealing barrels within each lot. 95% Donum selection and 5% Calera selection. Aged on fine lees 14 months in French oak barrels, 60% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Savory and fruity notes compliment the aromatics, including scents of black cherry, cardamom spice, toast, earthy flora and bramble. A mid weight styled wine with succulent black berry and black plum fruit flavors built around a core of typical Carneros earthiness, with suave tannins and easy approachability, and good finishing persistence. Score: 91

2013 Donum East Slope Single Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.66, TA 0.65, 157 cases, $90. Sourced from an east-sloping vineyard block of the Donum Ranch planted to a Calera selection. East Slope is a cool site, prone to uneven set with a mix of large and small berries. 5-day cold soak, slow natural fermentation, brief extended maceration, aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The most expressive nose in the 2013 Donum lineup, with welcoming aromas of Bing cherry, cake spices and sandalwood. This wine oozes charm and freshness, featuring mid weight flavors of cherry, dark red berry and plum. Cohesive tannins and acidity make for seductive drinking. The finish has remarkable staying power as well as a dancing suavity. This wine is a perfect prelude to seduction. Score: 95

2013 Donum West Slope Single Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.62, 269 cases, $90. Sourced from the middle portion of west-sloping vineyard block, a 5.5-acre site at the Donum Ranch. The Donum Roederer selection (the “Donum selection”) is the mainstay of the Donum Carneros Pinot Noir and certain vines developed further depth and complexity, so a stand-alone West Slope bottling was started in 2007. 100% Donum selection. 100% de-stemmed, 8-day cold soak, 4 weeks in tank, aged on the lees 15 months in French oak barrels, 63% new. · Medium reddish purple hue in the glass. A very engaging wine, offering hi-tone aromas of darker berries and cherries and a sprightly note of potpourri. The luscious core of dark red and black berry fruits is long and expansive, and accented by hints of cola, sweet oak, and earthiness. Impeccable balance, with a silky countenance and a classy finish of notable aromatic persistence. Score: 94

2013 Donum Single Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., pH 3.74, TA 0.58, 890 cases, $72. Anne Moller-Racke planned and planted the Winside Vineyard, formerly the Nugent Vineyard in the mid 1990s, and has farmed the property ever since. Dijon clones 667 and 115 were planted here initially with Pommard added in 2009. All three clones were included in this wine beginning in 2012. A barrel selection that was first offered in 2005. 100% de-stemmed, 6 to 10-day cold soak, slow fermentation with punch downs, and aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 70% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The aromas of cherry liquor and oak draw you into this middleweight styled wine offering crunchy black cherry and dark strawberry fruit flavors. Aggressive on the attack, with a polished mid palate demeanor, and a modest finish. Welcome harmony and easy drink ability. Score: 90

2013 Donum Single Vineyard Russian River Valley Reserve Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., pH 3.69, TA 0.59, 293 cases, $90. First introduced in 2009, this wine has consisted of only Dijon clone 667, but in 2013, the Pommard eclipsed the Dijon 667 block and Pommard makes up the majority of the blend. Typically, this is the winery’s richest blend. Long cold soak, extended maceration after primary fermentation, aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 70% new, and the best barrels selected. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of crushed dark cherries emerge with swirling. This wine has more swagger than finesse, yet is still agile, offering an intensely flavored cherry core accented with cola, spice and oak notes. The finish leaves a slight sense of warmth behind, but is clearly more generous and persistent than the regular Russian River Valley bottling. Cellaring is advised for this wine as it is still closed and brooding at this stage. Score: 91

2013 Donum Single Vineyard Ten Oaks Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

12.9% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.60, 158 cases, $72. Sourced from the Pommard block at Winside Vineyard, named after the ten majestic oak trees that border it on two sides. 15% whole cluster, 7-day cold soak, spontaneous fermentation, pump overs used but punch downs avoided to prevent over-extraction. The wine was aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Haunting aromas of Bing cherry, spice, rose petal and wine cave. Intense attack of crunchy cherry fruit with added complimentary flavors of spice and cherry cola. A teasing wine that draws you in with its appealing crispness. Still highly aromatic the following day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 93

2013 Donum Single Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.58, 423 cases, $72. Sourced from the Angel Camp Vineyard located in the deep end of the Anderson Valley north of Philo. Seven clones of Pinot Noir in volcanic, sandy soil at 500 feet elevation. A barrel-selected blend from all the vineyard blocks. 6-day cold soak, extended maceration of 20 to 26 days. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A forward drinking wine, offering aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry jam, vanilla and toast. Plenty of luscious fruit goodness with matched tannins, complimentary oak and a charge of fruit on the finish. Ripe flavors but not too ripe. Score: 91

2013 Donum Single Vineyard Angel Camp Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.69, TA 0.57, 135 cases, $90. Sourced from an 11-acre property planted to Wädenswil, David Bruce, Martini and Swan selections as well as Dijon clones 115, 667, and “828.” The largest component was the co-fermentation of Dijon 115 and 777. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 87% new. A favorite six barrel blend. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Brooding aromas of ultra ripe black fruits lead to a full-bodied and intensely sappy wine featuring black cherry and black currant flavors framed by matching tannins. The fruit load has embraced the high percentage of new oak which is well integrated. Unusually dense for a Pinot Noir and the boldest wine in the 2013 Donum lineup. Score: 90

2013 Fogline Hillside Block Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.62, 95 cases, $55. Released October 2015. Fogline Estate Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap. Clones 115, Pommard, Swan and Mt. Eden. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Uplifting aromas of Bing cherry, dark red raspberry, baking spice and mulch. Thoroughly satisfying, with vivacious flavors of cherry, raspberry, spice, cola and dried herbs. Balanced t n’ a with a pleasing cherry and cranberry appointed finish. Still very solid the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle meaning the wine has somewhere to go in the cellar. Score: 91

2013 Fogline Fogline Neighbors Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.65, 72 cases, $65. Released October 2015. A blend of three vineyards on the western face of Sonoma Mountain: Sun Chase (1200 feet elevation), Janian (900 feet elevation) and Fogline (850 feet elevation). Clones 667, 777, 115, 114, Pommard, Mt. Eden and Swan. 30% whole cluster fermentation. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose evolves slowly over time in the glass, eventually giving hi-tone aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and seasoned oak. Dark fruited on the palate with inviting intensity that carries over on the fruit-dominated finish. The slightly sinewy tannins are folded in, and the barrel management is ideal. Still inviting the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Can be enjoyed now, but has the balance to last. Score: 91

2013 Joseph Jewell Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.11% alc., pH 3.63, TA 0.59, 1,150 cases, $34. A blend of several vineyards: Hallberg, Floodgate, Appian Way, Bucher and Nurmi. 100% de-stemmed, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nice perfume of Bing cherry, cherry pie spice, purple grape and a hint of oak. A solid offering of mid weight black cherry, blueberry and spice flavors with a top note of toast, earth, tar and black tea. Modest tannins, with some finishing intensity and a slight sense of alcoholic warmth on the finish. Score: 89

2013 Joseph Jewell Hallberg Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.27% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.56, 200 cases, $48. Release April 1, 2016. This original apple growing property, named after the former owners, Don and Marcia Hallberg, was sold to Emeritus Vineyards in 1999. Goldridge soils. Yields 2.40 tons per acre. 100% de-stemmed, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 22% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The scent of black raspberry, blackberry, spice and woodland is inviting. Up front black raspberry and blackberry fruits blanket the mid palate, carrying over on the lifted, juicy and very long sweet-fruited finish. A compliment of oak plays in the background in this harmonious offering. Considerably more enjoyable the next day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 91

2013 Joseph Jewell Floodgate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.22% alc., pH 3.56, TA 0.61, 200 cases, $44. Release April 1, 2016. This vineyard is located in the Middle Reach of the Russian River Valley. Clones 777. Yields 2.13 tons per acre. 100% de-stemmed, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 22% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose is primary, even when checked the following day, with only earthy, oak-driven aromas. Much better and giving on the palate, with a mid weight core of sweet, sappy blackberry, black raspberry, and blueberry-pomegranate fruits supported by a touch of oak. The polished, velvety mouthfeel is alluring. Score: 90

2013 Joseph Jewell Appian Way Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.22% alc., pH 3.51, TA 0.61, 92 cases, $46. Release April 1, 2016. Vineyard is located just outside the town of Forestville. Farmed as an organic apple orchard until 2001, the 2-acre vineyard is now planted to Pinot Noir clones 115, 777 and Pommard in Goldridge soil. Yields 3.40 tons per acre. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is steeped in purple berry, hazelnut and vanilla aromas. Soft on entry and exit, with mid weight plus flavors of spiced plum, ollaliberry and blueberry-pomegranate. Super ripe in profile with even a hint of prune peeking out. Nicely composed with a deft touch of oak, merged tannins, and a satiny texture. A slight sense of warmth shows up on the finish. Unchanged when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 89

2013 Joseph Jewell Elk Prairie Vineyard Humboldt County Pinot Noir

12.91% alc., 50 cases, $39. This vineyard is located at 1200 feet elevation on Fruitland Ridge. · Light strawberry red in color, Highly aromatic, with a perfume of strawberry shortcake, red cherry and sandalwood. Lighter in weight, featuring flavors of red cherry, red berry, strawberry, blueberry and spice. The tannins are hidden, and the finish is mildly tart. Considerably more enjoyable when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, showing soaring aromatics and highly expressive fruit with plenty of charm. Score: 91

2013 Joseph Jewell Alderpoint Vineyard Humboldt County Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.51, TA 0.56, 100 cases, $34. Martini clone. Yield 2.01 tons per acre. 100% de-stemmed. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Both fruity and savory aromas announce the wine, including scents of cherry, raspberry, spice, underbrush, oak and herbs. A polished wine on the palate, with mid weight flavors of cherry, raspberry and boysenberry, framed by matching tannins and a subtle top note of oak. The finish is modest but satisfying. Score: 90

2013 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.8% alc., 709 cases, $70. Vines dating to 1995. Farmed using organic and biodynamic principles. Clones 114, 777, Pommard and Swan. Yields 2.74 tons per acre. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose leads with aromas of cherry, sous-bois and shaved oak. Toothsome flavors of black cherry and cinnamon spice are accented with toasty oak. Rather delicate and elegantly styled, with structured tannins and a silky mouthfeel. Easy to drink now, with an appealing grip on the finish, but the wine is slightly sullen and withdrawn. Largely unchanged the following day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, although the tannins seemed more prominent. Give this wine some cellar time. Score: 90

2013 Littorai B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., 186 cases, $80. The vineyard is located southwest of the town of Occidental, overlooking Bodega at an elevation of 900 feet. Goldridge over sandstone soils. Littorai has a long term lease on this site so that it is farmed as if it was an estate vineyard. Farmed for over a decade using biodynamic methods. Yields 1.99 tons per acre. Vines planted in 1991 and 1994. Clones are Swan, Pommard, 114, 777, Calera and a proprietary clone. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. This has been my favorite Littorai bottling since I first discovered it 15 years ago. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Alluring, even intoxicating aromas of fresh cherry, raspberry, blackberry, sous-bois and spice. Gracious and sexy, with finesse rather than swagger, offering a mid weight core of nicely ripened black cherry and black raspberry fruits framed by a hint of tannic sinew, integrated juicy acidity and a deft touch of oak. A note of exotic spice sneaks in at the finish. A very seductive wine. Turn down the lights when you pull the cork on this beauty. Score: 94

2013 Littorai Platt Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., 613 cases, $70. Littorai section of vineyard planted in 2004 and are highest elevation blocks on the property at 750 feet. The vines are planted to a rootstock and clones specifically chosen by Littorai. Platt is only 6 miles from the coast and overlooks the town of Bodega. Goldridge sand loam over marine origin sandstone soils. Organically farmed. Clones “828,” 115, 777, proprietary, and Calera. Yields 4.67 tons per acre. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderate cherry red color in the glass. A wonderland of aromas greet the drinker with notes of black cherry, blackberry, woodland and seasoned oak. Impressive attack of heady dark cherry and dark red berry fruits transition to a plush mid palate embossed with a woodsy, savory note, finishing with uncommon length and charm. A wine of special breeding with cohesive tannins and acidity. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. This wine has somewhere to go. Score: 94

2013 Littorai Roman Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

12.8% alc., 234 cases, $75. Roman is a hilltop vineyard situated at 1150 feet elevation northwest of the town of Philo. Soils are Boont loam over sandstone. Farmed using organic materials and biodynamic methods. Vines planted in 1999. Yields 2.48 tons per acre. Clones 114, 667 and a proprietary clone. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Stunted aromas of red cherry, leather chaps, spice and woodland. Light to mid weight in style, with flavors of cherry, cranberry and strawberry and a slight herbal riff. Restrained, even too calm, but nicely balanced, with a slightly tart finish. This wine has the most under ripe fruit of the wines tasted here. Unchanged the following day when re-tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 89

2013 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

12.7% alc., 565 cases, $70. This vineyard is located on the cooler end of the valley but is protected on two sides so it is warmer than most of its neighbors. Farmed using organic materials. Pinole and Boont loams over Franciscan shale soils. Vines planted in 1991, 1992 and 1993. Yields 3.16 tons per acre. Clones 114, 115, 667, 777, Calera and Pommard. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of compost, mushroom, cherry and blueberry lead to a smooth and suave palate of red cherry, red berry and blueberry flavors. Very satisfying, even uplifting, with pinpoint balance and a finish awash in vibrant fruit. The tannins are unusually tame in this vintage. Score: 91

2013 Littorai One Acre Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., 143 cases, $80. Littorai’s original vineyarddesignated Pinot Noir. A hilltop vineyard situated at 1600 feet elevation in the mountains northeast of Boonville. The vineyard succumbed to phylloxera several years ago and was replanted in 2005 when the rootstock, row orientation and clones were changed. Soils are Bearwallow loam over marine origin sandstone. Yields 2.87 tons per acre. Clones are 114, 777, “828,” and Swan. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose has already developed complexity, offering scents of black plum, black raspberry, pungent earth, compost, char, and floral intricacy. This wine has considerable mid palate presence and finishing power, yet is light on its feet. The richest and ripest wine of those tasted, with mid weight plus flavors of black raspberry, purple grape and blackberry and a light imprint of oak. A charismatic wine that will be a joy to follow over time. Score: 92

2013 Matrix Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

15.1% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.60, 923 cases, $38. Sourced from Matrix Estate, Monroe Vineyards and Boschetti Vineyards. Native yeast fermentation, aged in French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very fragrant initially, with aromas of well-ripened Bing cherry and baking spice, giving way over time in the glass to oak-driven scents of smoke, cigar and woodland. Ultra ripe flavors on the palate of black cherry, boysenberry, cola and dark chocolate. Noticeably oak-infused and a bit drying with a slight sense of warmth on the sappy finish. Score: 87

2013 Matrix Winery Russian River Valley Reserve Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.60, 199 cases, $65. A best barrel selection of wines from Nunes, R. Buoncristiani and Bacigalupi vineyards. Native yeast fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak barrels and bottled unfined. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, kirsch, vanilla and spice lead to a delicious core of fresh cherry fruit accented with baking spices. Nicely balanced with plenty of heady cherry saturating the palate and lasting through an extended finish. Much more charm and nimble character than the regular Russian River Valley bottling. Score: 90

2013 Matrix Winery Matrix Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

15.1% alc., pH 3.76, TA 0.62, 248 cases, $56. Clones 667, 777 and “828.” Native yeast fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, and bottled unfined. Clones 667, 777 and “828.” A best barrel selection of wines from Nunes, R. Buoncristiani and Bacigalupi vineyards. Native yeast fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak barrels and bottled unfined. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Initial aromas of black cherry, blueberry and blackberrypomegranate give way to more oak overlay with time in the glass. Very luscious and super-ripe fruited with top notes of cola, dark chocolate, expresso and tobacco engaging the deep black cherry core. The wine is plush on the palate with submerged tannins, displaying a sense of lip warmth on the finish. Score: 88

2013 Matrix Winery R. Buoncristiani Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.60, 199 cases, $52. Vines date to 2002. Clones 115 and 777. Native yeast fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, and bottled unfined. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The engaging nose leads off with aromas of Bing cherry and Asian 5-spice. A comforting wine on the palate with a silky texture and wellspiced flavors of dark cherry and blueberry-pomegranate. Nicely composed, with integrated tannins and an ebullient finish. Score: 92

2013 Matrix Winery R. Buoncristiani Russian River Valley Reserve Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.60, 99 cases, $68. Vines date to 2002. A selection of the finest barrels from this vineyard. Native yeast fermentation, aged in French oak barrels, and bottled unfined. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Very ripe fruited profile with aromas of blueberry and blackberry, and mid weight, ultra ripe flavors of blackest cherry, blackberry and blueberry-pomegranate. A bit earthy with a mushroom note. The wine picks up interest with more nuance over time in the glass, finishing with a juicy and oak-kissed, cherry-driven finish. Score: 91

2013 Matrix Winery Bacigalupi Russian River Valley Reserve Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., pH 3.56, TA 0.58, 124 cases, $68. Vines date to 1995 and 2003. Pommard and Wente clones. Native yeast fermentation, aged in French oak barrels. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, leather, sandalwood and raisin lead to a mid weighted wine with a core of dark red cherry and berry fruits and a top note of smoky oak. Modest tannins, juicy acidity and redeeming elegance with some power on the slightly warm finish. Score: 89

2013 Pali “Riviera” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 4,479 cases, $22, screwcap. Sourced from Collins Ranch, Arrowhead and Champlain Creek vineyards. Aged 18 months in barrel, 30% new French oak. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose is quite earthy, offering clay-kissed aromas of blackberry jam and mushroom. On the palate, there is an assemblage of chunky dark fruits and added accents of black tea and anise. Very ripe fruited and robust, with structured tannins, modest vibrancy and a dry finish. Nothing speaks of Sonoma Coast character in this fruit-driven wine. Score: 87

2013 Pali “Bluffs” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 454 cases, $23.50. Aged 10 months in barrel, 30% new French oak. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of blackest cherry, blackberry, spice and violets. Expansive and juicy on the palate, with ripely flavored black cherry, black raspberry and blackberry fruits. The sappy fruit attracts attention, and persists through a generous finish that leaves a hint of warmth in its wake. Score: 89

2013 Pali “Huntington” Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 3,140 cases, $23.50. A blend of grapes from vineyards in Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley and Los Alamos. Aged 12 months in barrel, 30% new French oak. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of cherry reduction sauce, peat and oak lead to a mid weight styled wine offering black cherry and black raspberry flavors with noticeable oak seasoning. Easy to drink, with silky tannins and integrated acidity. Score: 88

2014 Screen Door Cellars Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., 240 cases, $50. A blend of two vineyards, primarily Pommard clone. Aged in 100% French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very ripe fruited, featuring aromas of black cherry, blackberry and black grapes. Plenty of crunchy, sweet black fruits are nicely spiced and framed by matching tannins. Nicely crafted, with wellintegrated oak and some finishing generosity. This wine pushes the ripeness envelope, but keeps its Pinot Noir character in perspective. Score: 90

2014 Screen Door Cellars Leras Family Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 25 cases, $65. Primarily Pommard clone. Aged in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely aromas of Bing cherry, spice and rose petal. Soft and polished on the palate, with middleweight flavors of well-spiced red and black cherry fruits. The suave tannins make for easy drinking and the cherry-driven finish is remarkably long. The wine was even better when drank from a previously opened and re-corked bottle showing more fruit intensity and glorious spice. Score: 93

2013 Sea Smoke Southing Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.45, TA 0.63, $60. Southing represents the diversity of the entire Sea Smoke Estate Vineyard. 100% gently de-stemmed, cold soaked for 1 to 4 days, cultured yeast fermentation, punch downs, and a total maceration time of 14 to 18 days. Free-run juice was sent to tank and pressed, with both free-run and press wines racked to barrels. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 55% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Plenty of oak-driven spice and vanilla compliment the fruit aromas of blackberry and floral notes of rose and violet. Discreetly concentrated, with flavors of purple and black fruits, graced with spice, dark chocolate and floral accents. Soothing tannins are nicely balanced by juicy acidity and there is some length on the fruit-driven finish. Score: 91

2012 Sea Smoke L.D. Sea Spray Blanc De Noirs Sparkling Wine

11.9% alc., pH 3.15, TA 0.90, $80. 100% Pinot Noir vinified by methodé champenoise. 9 months in Barrel and 24 months en tirage. A long, cool fermentation was completed in stainless steel tanks followed by once-used and neutral French oak barrels. After 9 months of aging on the lees, the wine was bottle aged an additional 24 months en tirage before disgorging. The wine was finished with no dosage. · Lovely delicate pinkish orange color in the glass. The nose is searching and complex, offering scents of yeasty lees, salty ocean, peach pit, walnut oil, and subtle cherry and raspberry fruits. Tremendous vibrancy in the mouth with a lively bead, offering flavors of peach, orange water, dried cherry, cranberry and brioche. Thoroughly dry, with noticeable persistence of flavors on the soprano finish that delivers a tight grip of acidity. This wine calls out for foie gras. Score: 94

2014 Black Kite Cellars Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

14.3% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.60, 212 cases, $48. Wente clone. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Rather subdued but pleasant aromas of lemon-lime, chalk dust and crushed rock. Not as boisterous as the Gap’s Crown and more imbued with salty green apple notes to accompany the flavors of lemon, white peach and caramel. Very smooth on the palate and slightly creamy on the finish. Score: 92

2014 Black Kite Cellars Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.62, 264 cases, $48. Wente clone. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Clean aromas of lemon oil, citrus blossom, vanilla and marzipan. An abundance of citrus spearheads the flavor profile, complimented by notes of pain grille, caramel, butter brickle and pear. Pinpoint balance with a juicy finish that offers a hint of salinity. Score: 93

2014 Black Kite Cellars Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.2% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.62, 201 cases, $48. Dijon 76, 95 and 96. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Highly aromatic with a perfume that sustains over a lengthy time in the glass, featuring lemon cake, pear, nutty pastry creme and clarified butter. This wine comes at you with a flavor stick, exploding on the palate with flavors of lemon, pineapple, peach, pear and a hint of spice and vanilla. Impressive harmony, with a slightly viscous demeanor, and a really long, lip-smacking finish. Score: 94

2013 Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Dundee Hills Oregon Chardonnay

13.3% alc., 1,504 cases, $55. Dijon clones sourced from vineyards in the Dundee Hills. This wine is blended for consistency from vintage to vintage. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Engaging perfume of fresh apple, peach, spice, lees and nutty oak. Very polished and slightly creamy on the palate, with vibrant flavors of lemon, apricot and apple that persist through a finish awash in citrus goodness. A very giving wine with plenty of fruit. Score: 90

2013 Domaine Serene Clos du Soleil Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Chardonnay

13.3% alc., 127 cases, $75. Estate grown, produced and bottled. This vineyard is one of seven estate vineyards. It consists of 4 acres that are dry-farmed and is close planted to Dijon clones in Jory soil at 650 to 700 feet elevation. Fermented and aged on the lees in French oak barrels. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The aromas of apple, baking spice, lemon curd and nut spread draw you into the glass. Fresh and possessing noticeable bounce, with a delicious blend of apple, pear and citrus flavors underpinned with steeliness and salinity. Beautifully balanced, clean and bright, with a refreshingly juicy finish. I like this wine for its freshness. It seems to call out, “Drink me!” Score: 93

2013 Domaine Serene Etoile Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Chardonnay

13.1% alc., 124 cases, $75. Estate grown, produced and bottled. This wine is from a 3-acre, west-facing, hilltop vineyard site at 750 to 800 feet elevation planted to Dijon clones in Jory soils. Fermented and aged on the lees in French oak barrels. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The aromas arrive gradually over time, offering a fruit mix of citrus, apple and peach, with a compliment of oak. Generous presence on the palate with vivid flavors of lemon, pineapple and apple fruits that arrive in waves. Beautifully composed with steely acidity, a top note of nutty oak, and a lip-smacking finish. A unique wine in that it has almost an ephemeral texture borrowed from Pinot Noir. Score: 93

2013 Domaine Serene Côte Sud Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Chardonnay

13.3% alc., 155 cases, $75. Estate grown, produced and bottled. This vineyard is a top the Dundee Hills and is one of seven estate vineyards. Nearly 6 acres, the vineyard is dry-farmed, south-facing, and situated at 600 to 680 feet elevation. The Dijon clones are closely planted in Jory soils. Fermented and aged on the lees in French oak barrels. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The nose is dreamy, offering scents of lemon creme, Asian pear and wet crushed rocks. Silky smooth on the palate and citrus driven, with the slightest oak in the background. Good crispness with a fresh personality, this wine becomes more enchanting over time in the glass and develops almost a velvety mouthfeel. Score: 92

2013 Domaine Serene Clos de Lune Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Chardonnay

13.1% alc., 120 cases, $70. Estate grown, produced and bottled. From a 6-acre, dry-farmed, south and west-facing vineyard situated at 800 to 900 feet elevation and closely planted to Dijon clones in Jory soils. Fermented and aged on the less in French oak barrels. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Pristine aromas of fresh citrus and sweet nutty oak lead to a discreetly rich palate of citrus, apple, peach, pineapple and vanilla flavors. A crisp wine, with welcome fruit intensity on a finish sporting a robust cut of acidity. Score: 92

2012 Domaine Serene Récolte Grand Cru Dundee Hills Oregon Chardonnay

14.2% alc., 144 cases, $125. Estate grown, produced and bottled. Récolte is the French word for “harvest.” A tribute to white Burgundy and is the pinnacle of the Domaine Serene Chardonnay program. Dry-farmed Dijon clones grown at high elevation in Jory soils. Barrel fermented and aged on lees in French oak barrels. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. This wine is clearly different from the other Domaine Serene Chardonnays because of its complexity and serious intentions. Multiple aromas emerge from the alluring nose, including citrus, nectarine, cantaloupe, marzipan, garrigue, flint and lemon-infused oak. Richly flavored on the palate, with notes of lemon pie filling, pineapple, grapefruit, lees, toasty marshmallow, and more. Impeccable mouthfeel with pinpoint balance between focused fruit and steely resolve. A special wine that reveals itself slowly over time in the glass, and a keeper that will cellar beautifully long term. Score: 95

2014 Knudsen Vineyards Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Chardonnay

13.5% alc., pH 3.27, TA 0.63, 275 cases, $45, screwcap. This vineyard is home to the oldest plantings of Dijon Chardonnay clones in Oregon dating back to 1990. That year, Allen Holstein, the vineyard manager, established over 8 acres of Dijon clones 76 and 96 in Jory soil in the Dundee Hills. This wine is a blend of Dijon clones 76 and 95 planted in 1995. Aged 6 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Inviting aromas of white peach, lemon oil, shaved oak and floral goodness lead to a discreetly concentrated and thoroughly satisfying citrus-driven wine offering considerable complexity. Additional fruit flavors of pear and apple mix amicably with subtle oak driven notes of vanilla and spice. The lemon-infused finish is driven by a bright cut of acidity as the wine literally slides off the back of the palate. One of Oregon’s finest Chardonnays. Score: 94

2014 Fogline Vineyards Zephyr’s Block Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.23, TA 0.66, 145 cases, $38. Sourced from the estate vineyard located at an 850 foot elevation at the fogline in the Petaluma Gap region. Old Wente and Dijon 76 clones. · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The nose offers aromas of apple, pear, caramel and scrub brush. Nicely composed, with juicy flavors of apple, lemon wafer, pear, peach, mango and butterscotch budini. Slightly creamy on the palate with some length and an inviting cut on the finish. Score: 90

2013 Stony Hill Napa Valley Chardonnay

13.0% alc., pH 3.30, TA 0.69, RS 0.25, 1,852 cases, $45.This wine comes from one of Napa Valley’s most iconic wineries that has farmed Chardonnay since 1947. It is grown, produced and bottled 600 feet above the floor of the Napa Valley. Vines are 22 to 31 years old. Aged 10 months in neutral French oak barrels. A non-oaky, non-malolactic style Chardonnay. · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Plenty to like in this complex wine including clean aromas of green apple, lemon, peach, yellow cake, nuts, poppyseed and crushed chalk, and vivid fruit flavors of lemon, pineapple, and peach framed by refreshing acidity. Silky smooth on the palate with impeccable balance, featuring a grip of “stony” acidity on the uplifting finish. This is Chardonnay in its purest form, not gussied up with oak. Score: 94

2013 Meiomi California Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.81, TA 0.59, RS 6.9 g/L, $21, screwcap. · Dark reddish color in the glass. The aromas of charcoal, tobacco, blackest fruits and spice are not particularly appealing. Sappy and sweet on the palate with very ripe flavors of purple and black fruits, a floral note, and oak-driven spice, vanilla and coffee highlights. Smoothly textured with modest tannins in a richly styled wine that lacks vibrancy. Score: 87

2014 Diora Le Petite Grace Monterey Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.61, RS unknown, 5,038 cases, $30. Inaugural bottling. One of the multiple brands owned by Delicato Family Vineyards, sourced from the San Bernabe Vineyard located at the southern edge of the Santa Lucia Mountains range. Elaborate packaging with a large golden wax dip on the top and neck with pull tab (string “lappet”) that is very difficult to open, and a necklace with the winery’s crest draped over the neck. The wax treatment is a copy of that used for the Belle Glos Pinot Noir wines. Sourced from San Bernabe Vineyard at the southern end of the Santa Lucia Mountain range and crafted by winemaker James Ewart. 96% Pinot Noir, 2% Grenache, 2% Syrah. 30% whole cluster. 5-day cold soak in stainless steel fermenters, proprietary yeast fermentation. Aged 10 months in 90% French oak, 8% neutral American oak and 2% Hungarian oak. A select portion of the wine was aged in Francois Frères barrels with toasted heads to amplify the oak influence. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of very ripe blackberry and boysenberry with notes of spice, vanilla, violets, baking cocoa and char-infused oak. The wine pushes the ripeness envelope, with slightly sweet flavors of purple and black berry fruits, dark chocolate and spice. Slightly creamy and plush in the mouth, highly extracted, with balanced tannins and some finishing persistence. Not my favored style, but will find an audience in the consumer marketplace. Score: 89

2014 Mark West MW Black Monterey County Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., RS unknown, $13.99. Black label and black bottle coordinate with this intensely colored and full-bodied version of Mark West Pinot Noir Winemaker Jason Becker uses the French Saignée method to remove the lighter colored wine early in the process to increase the skin-to-must ratio and increase the body of the wine. Aged 8 months in French and Hungarian oak 35% new). Other details are not available. · Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of vanilla, dark chocolate and oak lead to a richly endowed, full-bodied wine featuring flavors of blackberry, black currant, cola, mocha and vanilla. Plenty of oak overlay, low in acidity, inviting smoothness, and a bold, fruit-driven finish. Score: 88

2013 Ménage à Trois California Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.56, RS 6g/L, $14 (usually discounted). 40% Central Coast, 35% Clarksburg, 25% North Coast. Winemaking details not known, but the wine is said to be, “Enhanced with French and American oak.” · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Pleasant aromas of cherry and oak lead to a middleweight styled wine with flavors of cherry, strawberry and cranberry. Rather elegant and fruit forward, with gentle tannins, a compliment of oak, and a very slight sweetness to the fruit. Overall, an innocuous wine that offers plenty of Pinot character at a very reasonable price. Score: 88

2015 Ritual Casablanca Valley Chile Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., $19.99, screwcap. A selection of vineyard lots and barrels from the coolest sections of the Casablanca Valley Estate property. Grapes hand harvested in cool morning, double-sorted. A portion of the grapes undergo whole cluster fermentation. Fermented with wild yeast. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose offers a marriage of black cherry fruit and oak-driven aromas of espresso and tobacco. Light to mid weight in style, featuring dark stone and purple berry fruit flavors with an undercurrent of oak. Refined and somewhat elegant, with balanced dry tannins, a silky texture and a finish replete with black cherry fruit. A forward drinking wine with admirable finesse. Score: 88

2014 Ritual Monster Casablanca Valley Chile Pinot Noir

Unlabeled sample. · Dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose only hints at dark fruit, offering primarily aromas of earthy flora and coffee-toned oak. Intensely flavored and quite sappy, featuring flavors of blackberry and black currant augmented with complimentary oak seasoning. Slightly velvety on the palate with a boisterous, black fruited finish. Score: 89

2015 Ritual Casablanca Valley Chile Chardonnay

14.0% alc., $19.99, screwcap. Grapes hand-harvested at night, whole cluster pressed. A portion of fruit undergoes whole cluster fermentation in concrete eggs, and the rest ferments in oak barrels. Aged in 20% 400 liter barrels, 20% concrete eggs, and 60% neutral oak barrels with regular lees stirring. · Delicate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The scents of lemon-lime, pear and oak lead to a light and easy-going wine infused with lemon, apple, pear and green herb flavors. Clean and brisk, with a citrus-infused finish. Score: 88