Sips of Recently Tasted Chardonnay

2012 Airlie Willamette Valley Estate Bottled Oregon Chardonnay

13.5% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.55, 308 cases, $18. Dunn Forest Vineyard. Harvest Brix 22.2º. Dijon clones. Whole cluster pressed, inoculated with thirteen yeasts, one per barrel, and barrel fermented in mostly neutral oak (7% new American oak), 100% malolactic fermentation, aged 10 months on the lees in barrel. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Very appealing perfume of lemon oil, mango and yellow apple sauce. An impeccably balanced wine with good richness of yellow citrus, lemongrass, honey, apple butter and caramel flavors. Utterly charming and easy to like, with welcome tension on the finish. Score: 92

2013 Albatross Ridge Estate Carmel Valley Chardonnay

12.5% alc., pH 3.24, 410 cases, $55. Sourced from four distinct blocks on the estate vineyard. Cones 96 and 15. Harvest Brix 20.5º-21.5º. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented with native yeasts on the lees with no stirring or racking, 100% native malolactic fermentation, aged 11 months in 100% French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Welcoming aromas of canned peach, lemon zest, vanilla creme and subtle toast. A discretely concentrated offering featuring bright flavors of lemon, pineapple and peach with complimentary nutty oak and a subtle salinity. Engaging acidity provides vivaciousness. Score: 91

2013 Anaba Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.0% alc., pH 3.51, TA 0.62, 206 cases, $36. Sourced from Mills Station Vineyard and Shop Block, both Dutton Ranch properties in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley. Harvest Brix 23.6º. Wente clone. Whole cluster pressed, 100% barrel fermented, 100% malolactic fermentation, aged 9 months on lees in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Pleasant aromas of lemon oil, lemongrass, pineapple and caramel lead to a bright and crisp style of citrus driven wine that is almost crunchy. A hint of banana and brioche is a donation from oak. Fruit and acidity work in harmony in this enjoyable offering. Dutton Ranch fruit always delivers the goods. Score: 90

2013 Anaba J McK Estate Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.60, 213 cases, $34. An estate vineyard that is sustainably farmed. The vineyard name is derived from proprietor John Sweazey’s children, John and McKenna. Harvest Brix 23.8º. Wente clone. Whole cluster pressed, 100% barrel fermented, 100% malolactic fermentation, aged 9 months on lees in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. A little more fruit and oak mix than the Dutton Ranch wine that is easy to like. Aromas of lemon curd, pear and toasty brioche lead to a richly flavored core of poached pear, peach and burnt caramel flavors. Pleasingly viscous in the mouth, with a soft, satiny finish. Score: 90

2013 Byington Wrights Station Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.54, TA 0.52, $30. Harvest Brix 24.5º. Aged in 30% new French oak and 70% neutral oak. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apple, and nutty oak come to the fore over time in the glass. The displays an intricate marriage of fruit and oak, with flavors of lemon and yellow peach combined with blonde caramel and toasty brioche. Beautifully balanced with a dancing cut of acidity fueling the refreshing finish. Score: 90

2013 Eric Kent Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.2% alc., pH 3.36, TA 0.63, 341 cases, $42. Released spring 2015. 50% Stiling, 36% Black Emerald, and 14% Roberts Road vineyards. 50% Rued clone, 36% clone 4 and 14% Robert Young clone. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The nose is pleasant but not particularly complex, offering the aroma of cut apple. More interesting on the palate, with flavors of lemon, pomelo and toffee backed by vibrant acidity. Nicely balanced, with modest richness and fullness on the palate. Score: 89

2013 Eric Kent Sangiacomo Green Acres Hill Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.36, TA 0.69, 168 cases, $46. Released spring 2015. Old Wente clone. Aged 14 months in 100% French oak barrels, 28% new and 72% neutral. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Scents of lemon and kiwi lead to a noticeable attack of flavorful nectarine, grilled lemon and pomelo fruits. Polished, with complimentary oak highlights, a good cut of underlying acidity, and a lip-smacking finish. A perfect companion for the dining table. Score: 90

2013 Gary Farrell Rochioli-Allen Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.3% alc., pH 3.33, TA 0.66, 473 cases, $55. Released September 2015. Sourced from two adjacent vineyards: Rochioli vineyard and Allen Vineyard planted just to the South, which is farmed by the Rochioli family. Primarily clones 76 and 15 from the Allen Vineyard and clone 5 from the Rochioli River Block Vineyard. Harvest Brix 22.0º-23.0º. Whole cluster pressed, inoculated fermentation with Montrachet yeast, barrel fermented, aged 8 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas and flavors of nectarine, lemon, grilled grapefruit, vanilla and toast combined with a comforting texture make for delightful drinking. A noticeable attack precedes an expanding fullness on the slightly viscous palate, finishing with a burst of acidity. Beautifully composed and seamless. Score: 92

2013 Gary Farrell Skin Fermented Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.0% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.66, 47 cases, $50 (wine club offering). Released August 2015. Sourced from Cornerstone Vineyard owned by Jim Pratt, an esteemed grower. Clone 4. · Moderately light golden yellow color and cloudy in the glass. A very stylistic and unusual wine that will appeal to those looking for a different angle. Aromas of lemon-lime, sap and willow bark lead to flavors of citrus, peach and stem-like notes. Challenging to describe properly, but suffice it to say that it was more instructive than pleasing for me although it tended to grow on me over time in the glass. Score: 89

2013 Gary Farrell Rochioli-Allen Vineyard Oak Puncheon Fermented Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.33, TA 0.76, 103 cases, $60. Released October 2015. A blend of clone 15 from Allen Vineyard and clone 5 from the Rochioli River Block Vineyard. Harvest Brix 22.0º-23.0º. Whole cluster pressed, inoculated fermentation with Montrachet yeast, aged in 500-liter French oak puncheons and left on the lees. Oak puncheons add subtle structure and aromatics and polish the finished wine without dominating the expression of terroir. Aged 8 months (50% new) and bottled separately from the larger Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Chardonnay because of its unique profile. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Lovely blend of citrus and tropical fruits with oak leads to a delicious charge of citrus and yellow peach flavors with conspicuous, but pleasant, oak influence. Noticeable weight and presence on the palate with a satiny texture and a refreshing cut of acidity on the finish. Very appealing, especially to those who like a bit of appropriate oak overlay in their Chardonnay (I do). Score: 93

2013 Keeler Estate Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Oregon Chardonnay

12.8% alc., pH 3.80, TA 0.53, 74 cases, $28. Released December 2015. Made from organically grown grapes. Clones 96, 95, 76 and 44. Whole cluster pressed, aged 10 months on the lees in 62% once-filled French oak barrels and 38% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of lemon-lime, peach skin, Vegemite, sea breeze and floral bouquet lead to a citrus-driven wine with a hint of peach and green herbs. The wine displays nice polish, although the fruit seems under ripe. Score: 87

2014 Kingston Family Vineyards Sabrino Casablanca Valley Chile Chardonnay

13.5% alc., 270 cases, $26. Released fall 2015. Part of wine is aged in concrete which keeps the wine fresh and smooths out the rough edges, and some is aged in used French oak barrels (just a touch of new oak). · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Inviting aromas of lemon-lime, cut apple, sliced Asian pear and celery stalk. Light and smooth in the mouth, even sheik, with a clean and refreshing core of citrus fruits and just the right touch of vanilla and toast. A very solid, even exceptional, everyday drinker at the right price. Score: 90

2013 MacPhail Vagon Blanc Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.57, RS .18 bms/100ml, 100 cases, $65. Release fall 2015. Winemaker James MacPhail was setting out to emulate a white Burgundy-like expression of Chardonnay, drawing on his 4 favorite barrels from Pratt and Gap’s Crown vineyards. Harvest Brix 23.3º-23.9º. Clones are Mt. Eden, Robert Young, Dijon 76 and 96. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented with a blend of native and cultured yeasts, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel, batonnage once weekly through primary fermentation, aged on lees for 17 months in 100% French oak barrels, 30% new. (3 cigar-shaped Ermitage barrels), and bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Complex and engaging nose, offering aromas of cooked pear, butterscotch budino, grilled lemon and salted caramel. Flavorful tastes of lemon, pineapple, pear and yellow peach with balancing toast, finishing with bright, lemon-infused goodness and some uncommon length for a Chardonnay. Score: 92

2013 MacPhail Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.49, TA 0.58, RS .13 gms/100ml. Harvest Brix 23.9º. Dijon 76 and 96. Whole cluster pressed to barrel, 100% malolactic fermentation, batonnage once weekly through primary fermentation, aged on lees for 17 months in 100% French oak barrels, 30% new, bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The aromas build over time in the glass, offering notes of apple, lemon, cream soda and cedary oak. A sneaky wine that acquires more flavor over time, leading to bright tastes of citrus, pear, caramel, cream soda and some minerality for sake of a better word. Nicely balanced with integrated acidity and pleasing intensity on the finish. Score: 92

2013 MacRostie Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.5% alc., 25,000 cases, $25, screwcap. Sourced from several vineyards in the Sonoma Coast including Sangiacomo, Dutton Ranch, Martinelli Woolsey Road and Goldrock Ridge vineyards. Whole cluster pressed, racked into French oak barrels for fermentation, 20% of which were new. 100% malolactic fermentation, aged on the lees for six months with occasional stirring. A few lots were fermented in stainless steel tanks and never went to barrel. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. I was enamored with the nose which kept pumping out aromas of lemon, spiced pear, golden apple and brioche. Easygoing on the palate, soft and smooth, with flavors of lemon, pear and toast embraced by acidity that is not too assertive. An impressive and very affordable appellation offering. Score: 90

2013 MacRostie Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.6% alc., 285 cases, $46, screwcap. A selection of the twelve best barrels made from this vineyard. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented, 100% malolactic fermentation, aged 10 months on lees with occasional stirring in 100% French oak barrels, 20% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. A nose with intent, offering scents of lemon oil, white peach, vanilla pod, creme brulee and a fleeting floral note. Beautifully balanced with juicy flavors of lemon-lime and honey augmented with a deft touch of toasty oak. Highly enjoyable, with a pleasing cut of lemon-driven acidity on the uplifting finish. Score: 91

2013 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.5% alc.,1,075 cases, $40, screwcap. Grapes come exclusively from this estate vineyard owned by Steve MacRostie and his partners Nancy and Tony Lily. The wines are planted in sparse volcanic soil and are subjected to strong maritime winds and fog. Four blocks, four clones. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented, 100% malolactic fermentation, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 18% new, 18% one-year-old and the rest older, lees stirred several times. The best barrels from each lot were selected for this bottling. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Pleasing aromas of lemon curd, cut yellow apple and nutty oak. Slightly plush in the mouth, with riveting flavors of grilled peach, lemon creme and wood sap. Nicely put together with impeccable harmony and a refreshing charge of lemon goodness on the finish. Score: 92

2014 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

$40. Released July 2015. This bottling is made from a “who’s who” of outstanding winegrowing sites. Recently, Patz & Hall started to use grapes from Gap’s Crown Vineyard and Sanchietti Vineyard Pleasant Hill (planted specifically for Patz & Hall) in this bottling. Whole cluster pressed, indigenous yeast fermentation, aged on the lees with weekly stirring, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel, aged in 35% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. Very nicely perfumed with scents of lemon, honey, crème brûlée and brioche holding up over time in the glass. Slightly creamy on the palate and moderately rich in flavor with oak enhanced notes of citrus and peach. Good cut with a slightly tart lemon-driven finish that is a bit cloying. Score: 89

2013 Patz & Hall Zio Tony Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay

380 cases, $65. Released October 2015. This vineyard was planted by the Martinelli family in 1990. It is located in the heart of the Green Valley of Russian River Valley. 100% Dijon clone 76, grown in Goldridge sandy loam soils. Whole cluster pressed, indigenous yeast fermentation, aged on lees with weekly stirring, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel, aged in 50% new French oak barrels, bottled without filtration. · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The nose is noticeably steely, with accessory aromas of lemon, green apple and peach syrup. A reserved, but pleasing style, with flavors of lemon curd and pear framed by juicy acidity, a slightly viscous mouthfeel, finishing with a lemon drop lift. Score: 90

2013 Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard Carneros Napa Valley Chardonnay

1,161 cases, $60. Hyde-Wente selection planted on the best soils at Hyde: very low vigor and extremely well-drained sandy, clay loam. Whole cluster pressed, indigenous yeast fermentation, aged on lees with weekly stirring, 100% malolactic fermentation in barrels, aged in 45% new French oak barrels, bottled without filtration. · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas and flavors of lemon creme, cut apple and grapefruit in this acid-driven wine with obvious class. The right touch of toasty oak is complimentary, and the cleansing finish is uplifting. Not up to the 2012 version, but still exceptional. Score: 92

2013 Presqu’ile Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay

13.4% alc., pH 3.54, TA 0.58, $35. Clones 131, 124, 76, 4 and 96. Native yeast fermentation, native malolactic fermentation, aging on lies 12 months in French oak barrels (15% new) and 6 months in stainless steel, with light lees stirring. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Bright aromas of lemon drops, yellow apple, nutty oak and a hint of salinity. A nicely composed, lighter-weight, and pleasing wine with flavors of lemon and honey presented on a slightly viscous platform. Score: 90

2013 Presqu’ile Presqu’ile Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay

13.33% alc., pH 3.42, TA 0.61, 657 cases, $45. Clones 4, 95, 124. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 32% new. Unfined and unfiltered. A barrel selection intended to represent the essence of the vineyard. · Moderately light golden color and clear in the glass. The nose leads with scents of lemon, pear skin and seashore. Flavors of citrus and peach are balanced with a steely minerality which I liked. Very enjoyable, with well integrated oak, saliva inducing acidity and some finishing citrus-driven ebullience. Score: 92

2013 Three Sticks Durell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.51, TA 0.64, 713 cases, $50. Fruit is sourced from two blocks: Old Wente 1 and Rocky Flat (Dijon 76). 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel. Aged 15 months in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Many discoverable nuances in this wine that leads with aromas of poached pear, cut apple, kiwi, warm toffee, roasted nuts and buttery brioche. Discreetly rich flavors of lemon curd, yellow peach syrup, caramel apple and honey lead the way. The wine lacks a bit of acidic verve, but otherwise fulfills its mission. Score: 91

2014 Briceland Vineyards Spirit Canyon Vineyard Mendocino County Arneis

13.4% alc., 81 cases, $18. · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Welcoming aromas of lemon, pineapple and apple lead to a tasty melange of apple, pear and citrus fruit flavors complimented by a note of buttery brioche and backed by bright acidity. Easy to like on its own or will match perfectly with seafood. Score: 90