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Sips of Recently Tasted California Pinot Noir



Aether Wine Company, Orcutt

These wines are the inaugural releases from owner and winemaker Jeff Fink, formerly of Tantara Winery. The name Aether, means the fifth element. In early 2013, when Jeff began planning his first vintage, he identified a number of special vineyards that would allow him to produce high quality wines. Some of these vineyards were reliable old friends and others would be new. The resultant Aether wines come from vineyards that have “inspirational qualities” as Jeff puts it. In addition to the Pinot Noirs offered here, Jeff released a 2013 Wolff Vineyard Edna Valley Chardonnay. Before starting Aether Wine Company, Jeff launched the Pence Ranch Estate wine program with the 2009-2012 vintages. If you are familiar with Jeff’s style of Pinot Noir at Tantara, you will find similarities in these wines. Visit www.aetherwines.com.

2013 Aether Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $36. This wine is composed of barrels from Dierberg, Drum Canyon and Pence Ranch vineyards. Harvest Brix 23.8º. 20% whole cluster. 3 to 4-day cold soak, RC 212 ferment, 15 to 17 days on skins, aged 18 months in neutral French oak barrels, indigenous malolactic fermentation. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Penetrating aromas of fresh cherry mash with a touch of spice. The black cherry core is accented with smoky, toasty oak and hints of black tea and blackberry. Soft in the mouth, with silky tannins and a slight sense of alcoholic warmth complete the picture of this forward drinking wine. Score: 89

2013 Aether Pence Ranch Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $50. Harvest Brix 23.8º average. Clones 459, 115 and “828.” Indigenous primary and malolactic fermentation. 20% whole clusters. 15 to 20 days on skins. Aged 18 months in neutral French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose reveals its charms slowly in the glass, becoming a cherry bomb with oak highlights. The mid weight flavors of black cherry and blueberry are embellished with cinnamon and other spices in a silky textured wine with balanced tannins and juicy acidity. The bounty of cherry on the finish appeals. Noticeably better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 93

2013 Aether Matrix Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., $55. Harvest Brix 24.0º-24.3º. Clones 115 and 777. 50% whole cluster. 3 to 4-day cold soak, indigenous primary and malolactic fermentations. 17 to 20 days on skins. Aged 18 months in neutral French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A mix of savory and fruity aromas on the nose, featuring scents of cherry, strawberry, earthy flora, sandalwood and shitake mushroom. Vibrant and juicy on the palate with a middleweight core of dark red cherry and berry goodness complimented by a touch of oak. The lightest in weight of the four 2013 Aether wines, but highly enjoyable, with a cherry-fueled finish of some note. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 92

2013 Aether La Colline Arroyo Grande Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.60, $60. Harvest Brix 24.4º, 100% de-stemmed, 3 to 4-day cold soak, indigenous primary and malolactic fermentations, 18 days on skins, aged 18 months in neutral French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very shy fruit expression on the nose that is earth-laden. More expressive on the palate, with a bold charge of black cherry and pomegranate fruits supported by grainy tannins that add textural interest. This is the most extracted wine in the 2013 Aether lineup with the most fruit statement. The bountiful mid palate presence and exceptional finishing length make this wine special. Even more expressive the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 93



Asuncion Ridge Vineyards, Paso Robles

2013 Asuncion Ridge San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 215 cases, $42. Estate grown on a vineyard located high on a ridge of the Santa Lucia Mountains range overlooking the Pacific Ocean on the Central Coast. Clones are 115, 667, Pommard 4 and 5, and HRM (Hoffman Mountain Ranch). · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose offers both complexity and depth, with aromas of cherry, raspberry, dried herbs and sweet oak. Middleweight styled, with forward flavors of cherry and dark red berries. Nicely composed and pleasant with balanced tannins and deft oak integration. Score: 89

2013 Asuncion Ridge Vineyards Barrel Select

14.4% alc., 100 cases, $58. 50% free run juice from estate grown clones 777, 115 and Pommard 4 and 5. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Sustaining aromas of cherry coulis and oak vanillin. More attack and concentration, with a dark fruit profile framed by filigree tannins. Still a bit reticent and primary, yet showing great potential, with some length on the sappy-fruited finish. Score: 91



Gros Ventre Cellars, Fairplay

2013 gros ventre Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 262 cases, $44. A blend of grapes from Baranoff Vineyard, Campbell Ranch and undisclosed source. Clones are Pommard, Swan, Calera, 115, 777, 667, 459 and 113. 5-day cold soak, aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 8% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black raspberry, oak cask and bruised apple. Mid weight plus sweet flavors of black cherry, pomegranate and blackberry are framed by fine-grain tannins that create a lovely texture, and the wine finishes with some length. Score: 87

2013 gros ventre Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 143 cases, $48. Fifth release from this vineyard located at 800 feet above the valley floor just east of Boonville. Farmed by the Knez family and managed by Anthony Filiberti. Clones Pommard 667 and 115. 5-day cold soak, native yeast fermentation, aged on the lees in French oak barrels, 17% new, for 11 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Perfume of blueberries, black leather, potting soil, and bruised apple. Somewhat rugged and rustic, with a mid weight core of black raspberry and plum flavors that are earth infused. The finish is the most inviting feature of the wine, showing bright acidity, even a slight tartness, and generous fruit. Score: 88

2013 gros ventre Baranoff Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 65 cases, $Sold out. Sourced from a 3-acre vineyard farmed by Paul Sloan of Small Vines. The vineyard is planted to seven clones with high-density spacing. Native yeast fermentation, bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. This wine has Russian River Valley typicality, with aromas and flavors of Bing cherry, strawberry, spice and cola. Inviting elegance, with suave tannins and a modest finish. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine was still alive and cherry-driven. Score: 89

2013 gros ventre Campbell Ranch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 187 cases, $54. Third release from this extreme coastal vineyard in the hamlet of Annapolis in West Sonoma County. The vineyard has recently been farmed to its full potential by Ulises Valdez. Clones 115 and 777. 5-day cold soak, native yeast fermentation, aged on the lees in French oak barrels, 13% new, for 11 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Dreamy aromas of cherry, rose petal, spice and sandalwood. Satiny and elegant on the palate, with a charge of cherry and strawberry flavors with a noticeable, but not imposing, herbal oak overlay. Gossamer tannins made for easy like ability, and the finish enticed with an oak-kissed cherry theme. Score: 90

2013 gros ventre First Born Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 165 cases, $64. A blend of undisclosed source in the Ft Ross-Seaview AVA. (72%), Campbell Ranch (14%) and Baranoff Vineyard (14%). Clones are Pommard, Calera, 115, 777, 667, 459 and 113. Flagship cuvée representing a barrel selection of the best lots in the vintage. 5-day cold soak, native yeast fermentation, aged on the gross lees in French oak barrels, 57% new, for 18 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Welcoming aromas of blackberry, blueberry and pomegranate. Heady fruit flavors of blackberry and black raspberry are embellished with spice and tobacco notes. The tannins are silky and the finish is spectacularly long. The only features that detract are a heavy lean of oak and a slight sense of warmth on the ending, both of which I can overlook because of the wine’s other merits. Score: 91



la pitchoune winery, Santa Rosa

2013 la pitchoune Van Der Kamp Vineyard Sonoma Mountain Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 100 cases, $58. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Muddled cherry and forest path aromas lead to a mid weighted forceful attack of pleasing black cherry and blackberry flavors that show length and persistence through the mid palate and grand finish. Very tasty, with impressive balance. Score: 92

2013 la pitchoune Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 385 cases, $48. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Quite savory on the nose, with aromas of damp loam, earthy flora and herbal oak. More fruity on the palate with a ripe but not over ripe core of black cherry, dark strawberry and black raspberry flavors enhanced with notes of spice, herbs, black tea and dark chocolate. The overall sense is one of vibrancy and the modest finish pleases. An impressive appellation wine. Score: 90



Mercy Vineyards, Pebble Beach

Vintner Mike Kohne sent me the following wines for review. Mike partnered with vintner Mark Dirickson to produce wines from Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA (see map below), specifically from three contiguous vineyards located in a dried riverbed part of the AVA. Located along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this riverbed corridor has ideal maritime climate and rocky, granite cobblestone surface soil over hardpan. The meager soils, forceful winds and fog combine to limit yields. The wines are made by Mike who has been crafting wine since 2001. Tasting is available at the Mercy Tasting Room in Carmel Valley. Visit www.mercywines.com.



2013 Mercy Riverbed Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.61, 746 cases, $32. Sourced from contiguous vineyards (Zabala, Cedar Lane and Griva) in an area of a dry riverbed featuring shallow, rocky topsoil. Clones are Pommard 4, Martini 13, 115, 667, 777 and a DRC “La Tache” selection. 100% de-stemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated with RC212 yeast, on skins 12-15 days. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 12% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, earthy flora and tobacco lead to a mid weight core of sumptuous black cherry fruit infused with a savory tone. Silky textured with a modest finish. Score: 88

2012 Mercy Griva Vineyard Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.58, 185 cases, $38. Dijon clones 667 and 777, and Martini 13 and Pommard 4 clones. 100% de-stemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated with proprietary yeast, spending an average of 12 days on skins. Aged nearly a year in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of cherry, strawberry, and cigar smoke lead to a mid weighted style featuring red fruits overlain with significant oak-driven flavors of vanilla and char. Soft in the mouth with balanced tannins and a modest finish. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, it was still challenging to find a lot of Pinot character under all the oak. Score: 86

2012 Mercy Cedar Lane Vineyard Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.89, TA 0.61, 156 cases, $38. A 60-acre vineyard at the base of the Santa Lucia Mountains. 50% clone 667 and 50% Pommard 4. 100% destemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated with RC212 yeast, 14 days on skins. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 14% new. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, cranberry, cigar and burnt toast lead to flavors of cherry and baking spices. Light in demeanor with an infusion of malolactic driven smoke and toast, with some finishing power. Score: 86

2012 Mercy Zabala Vineyard Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., pH 3.82, TA 0.63, 219 cases, $38. Windblown site with rocky soils. Vineyard planted in 1972. Clones 115, 667 and a little Pommard. 100% destemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated with RC212 yeast, 12 day fermentation, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 22% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Demure aromas of cherry, blackberry, earth and char. Structured and earthy, with a juicy core of black cherry fruit accented with hints of black tea, anise and toast, that holds on through a moderately lengthy finish. Score: 87



Morgan Winery, Salinas

Dan Morgan Lee and Donna Lee have offered artisan, vineyard-designated wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Monterey under the Morgan label for three decades.

The 2014 growing season saw a continuation of the drought in California. Lower than normal rainfall totals and a dry winter led to early bud break. The vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands were protected from a few heat events by the mitigating proximity to Monterey Bay. The ripening period was fairly normal and long. Fruit quality from the 2014 vintage was uniformly excellent.

Morgan Pinot Noir practices the following vinification scheme. The grapes are sorted both in the vineyard and at the winery followed by 100% de-stemming. Whole berry fermentation is started with native yeasts in small, open-top tanks. The caps are punched down three times a day by hand. Aging is carried out for about a year in French oak barrels, 35% to 60% new.

Visit www.morganwinery.com. A tasting room is open daily at 204 Crossroads Blvd., in Carmel.

2014 Morgan Twelve Clones Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.57, $34. 57% Double L Vineyard. Aged 8 months in French oak barrels, 37% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A perfume of black cherry, cedary oak, charcoal and turned earth leads to a light to mid weight styled wine with a core of black cherry and pomegranate fruits. Silky in the mouth, with modest fruit intensity, a hint of smoky oak, bright acidity, and a slight sense of alcoholic warmth on the fruit-filled finish. Score: 89

2014 Morgan Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.57, TA 0.60, 720 cases, $60. Made from estate organic grapes, clones 777, 667, 115, 114 and Pommard 4. Vineyard is in northern end of Santa Lucia Mountains and has been certified organic since 2002 making it the first vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands to achieve both organic and sustainable certifications. 100% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation initially, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 36% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Stubborn primary nose reluctantly offering aromas of earthy black fruits. Expansive blackberry and boysenberry flavors that offer commendable intensity and length on the finish. Polished, with balanced tannins, and a thrust of black cherry on the finish. Score: 92

2014 Morgan Double L Vineyard Clone 777 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.58, 45 cases, $60. Made from estate organic grapes. 100% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 60% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Inviting aromas of black cherry, cassis and a hint of vanilla. A mid to full bodied charge of black cherry and blackberry fruits saturates the palate. Structured tannins back the lovely fruit, and oak notes of vanilla and toast play in the background. The seamless mouthfeel is very inviting and my only nit is a slight sense of alcoholic warmth on the finish. Score: 92

2014 Morgan Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

13.6% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.62, 44 cases, $60. Clones are Pisoni and 777. Vineyard is three miles south of Double L Vineyard and was planted in 1996 by Gary Franscioni and his spouse Rosella. 100% de-stemmed, native yeasts began the whole berry fermentation, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 60% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. This wine is more ripe fruited and more sappy than usual for wines from this vineyard. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, game and brioche lead to a mid weight plus styled wine with a gorgeous core of boysenberry, black raspberry and plum fruit well-accented with Asian 5-spice. Noticeable attack, expansive presence on the palate, and a very sustaining finish. The tannins are well matched, and a subtle bit of oak vanillin adds interest. Score: 93

2014 Morgan Tondre Grapefield Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.58, 45 cases, $60. Clones 943, 115, “828,” and 777. This vineyard is adjacent Garys’ Vineyard and was established and is farmed by Tondre Alarid and his son Joe. 100% de-stemmed, native yeasts started whole berry fermentation, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 45% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Soaring scents of Bing cherry, spices including nutmeg and sandalwood that sustain over time in the glass. A highly satisfying wine with the mid weight flavor of succulent, spiced cherry. The wine offers impeccable balance and a memorable spiced cherry fueled finish. This vineyard has a signature spice element that I have consistently tasted in multiple wines from different producers and I believe this is one of Santa Lucia Highland’s greatest Pinot Noir vineyards. Score: 94

2014 Morgan Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.44, TA 0.63, 117 cases, $60. Pisoni clone. This 50-acre vineyard is located four miles south of Double L Vineyard and is in a slightly cooler area promoting later ripening and fresh acidity. 100% de-stemmed, whole berry fermentation started with native yeasts, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 60% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Brooding aromas of dark cherry, blackberry and oak spice and toast. More expressive on the palate, with mid weight plus flavors of perfectly ripened black cherry and boysenberry fruits that impose themselves on the mid palate and finish with panache. Still a bit tight, but oh so pleasing, with a lengthy, juicy finish. Score: 93



Spell Winery, Santa Rosa

2014 Spell Nicole’s Blend Sonoma County Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.71, TA 0.58, 882 cases $39. A blend from DeVoto, Terre de Promissio, Umino and Alder Springs vineyards. Aged in 40% new, 30% once-used and 30% older French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A perfume of Bing cherry, strawberry and baking spices draw the nose to the glass. This wine aims to please with a mid weight core of juicy black cherry fruit balanced with the faintest oak and spice. Nicely weighted with integrated tannins and acidity, and some finishing intensity. Score: 90

2014 Spell Terra De Promissio Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.78, TA 0.58, 79 cases, $58. Clone 115. Aged in 50% new, 25% once-used and 25% older French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose leads with aromas of black cherry, forest floor and subtle oak. Fairly concentrated and ripe fruited, with succulent flavors of black cherry, blackberry, spice and Hoison sauce, backed by balanced tannins that make for easy approachability. The fruit really grabs hold to the long finish. Score: 92

2014 Spell Umino Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.59, 128 cases, $48. This vineyard is owned and farmed by Dave Umino and is located in the Sebastopol Hills. Planted to Dijon clones 777, 667, 115 and 459 on a former apple orchard in 1995. Clones 459, 115 and 777. Aged in 50% new, 25% once-used and 25% older French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. On the nose, dark cherry fruit is embellished with scents of violets, oak spice and vanilla creme. Mid weight plus in style, with an array of earthy and mineral-toned darker fruits. The most concentrated of the 2014 Spell Pinot Noirs, yet refined and easy to like with structured tannins, a velvety texture, and a charge of sweet blackberry fruit on the big ending. Score: 92

2014 Spell Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.71, TA 0.58, 125 cases, $48. Rochioli selection Pommard, 2A and a DRC selection. Aged in 33% new, 33% once-used and 33% older French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Highly aromatic, with scents of cherry, exotic spices and potpourri. Plenty of flavor is packed into the mid palate and finish of this mid weight, captivating wine that features black cherry and black raspberry fruits embellished with a deft touch of oak and a bit of umami. Structured tannins are slightly astringent at this early stage. The finish is one to celebrate, with extraordinary black cherry aromatic persistence. This zesty wine is cause for celebration. Score: 94



More Wines

2013 Albatross Ridge Estate Reserve Carmel Valley Monterey County Pinot Noir

12.7% alc., pH 3.60, 375 cases, $55. Vinted and bottled by Bowlus Vineyards, LLC, Healdsburg and vinified by Garrett Bowlus. The 25-acre estate vineyard is located on a steep and rocky ridge at 1250 feet overlooking the Pacific Ocean that lies seven miles away. A very cool site with less than 2,000 degree days each season. This wine is a selection of the finest barrels of the vintage. Yields 1.7 tons per acre. Harvest Brix 21.5º-23.5º. Clones 777, Pommard, and “828.” 15% whole cluster. 4-day cold soak, long and cool fermentation in small open top tanks with native yeast. Aged 11 months in 33% new French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Enticing marriage of dark red cherries, baking spices and sandalwood on the nose. Light to mid weight flavors of red cherry, strawberry and cranberry presented in a delicate, charming style with a slightly tart and saline-infused acid frame. Nicely balanced with sandy tannins and a finish replete with cherry and blood orange flavors. Score: 90

2013 Anaba Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.66, TA 0.61, 330 cases, $46. Harvest Brix 24.5º. Pisoni clone. 100% de-stemmed, 4-day cold soak in stainless, basket pressed when dry. Aged 11 months on primary lees in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Complex nose featuring aromas of black cherry, oregano, black tea, underbrush and infused oak. The mid weight flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and ollaliberry are pleasingly complimented by a soft and velvety texture in a thoroughly seductive wine that finishes with noticeable staying power. Putting the significant oak overlay aside, this is an impressive wine. Score: 92

2015 Attune Pinot Noir Rosé

12.7% alc., 140 cases, $28. Aged 5 months in 100% neutral French oak barrels. · Light pinkish orange color in the glass. Well-appointed nose with aromas of apple, strawberry, watermelon and spice. Crisp, clean and flavorful, with tastes of blood orange and strawberry, finishing bright but with the slightest sense of alcoholic warmth. Score: 89

2013 Blair Estate The Reserve Delfina’s Vineyard Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., 110 cases, $75. Release summer 2016. Clones 115, 777 and Pommard 4 from home vineyard. Debut release and the winemaker’s ultimate vintage statement in 2013. (Note: the wine is bottled with a thick wax capsule and a pull tab but is very difficult to open. The look is very classy, but the imposing challenge of opening the wine offsets the eye candy). · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with a fusion of cherry and spirited oak aromas. Light to mid weight in style, with a delectable core of cherry, cranberry and spicy oak flavors. Gentle tannins make for easy approachability, and the wine finishes with a bright charge of sweet cherry fruit accompanied by a cleansing and slightly citrus-driven acidity. This wine is not a typical blockbuster reserve but is more dedicated to Pinot Noir elegance and typicality, proving that Pinot Noir doesn’t have to be big and extracted to be superb. Score: 92

2014 Castalia Rochioli Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., $60. Crafted by the cellar master at Rochioli, Terry Bering, and bottled by J. Rochioli Vineyards for Castalia Wines. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The aromas arrive slowly over time, featuring ripe cherry, baking spice and a hint of sweet oak. Discreetly concentrated, with a generous attack of black cherry fruit backed by a mantle of oak. Welcome mid palate bombastic cherry presence and some noticeable length on a finish that features chocolate-covered cherry goodness. The tannins are still young and slightly drying and there is a subtle warmth to the wine. The wine was more cohesive the following day when re-tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Having tasted multiple vintages of this wine, I have found that the wines typically require a few years in bottle to fully appeal and patience or vigorous decanting is advised. Score: 92

2013 Champ de Rêves Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.57, 4, 995 cases, $45. Grapes were sourced from the 85-acre Champ de Rêves Vineyard perched high above Boonville on Boone Ridge planted to relatively young vines (2006). Clones 667, 777 and 115. 100% de-stemmed with 60% whole berries fermented in open-top fermenters and a 5 to 6-day cold soak. Fermented 14 to 16 days on skins. Aged 9 months in 32% new French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Woody and vanilla aromas dominate the black cherry fruit on the nose. Mid weight flavors of black cherry, blueberry and boysenberry are framed by gritty tannins. Good mid palate richness with a modest finish. Not particularly complex, with drying, firm tannins evident on the finish and more oak input than I prefer. Score: 87

2015 Cosa Obra Sonoma County Rosé of Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., cases, pH 3.44, TA 0.64, 96 cases, $18. Sourced from the Sangiacomo Southern Sonoma Vineyard first planted in 1974. 100% Pommard clone. Crafted by the saignée method and fermented in neutral barrels. · Moderate pinkish orange color in the glass. Aromas of cranberry, orange water and dried herbs lead to a richly flavored core of blood orange, strawberry and watermelon fruits. Nicely composed, with integrated acidity and a very juicy finish. Score: 90

2014 Cosa Obra Sonoma County Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.58, $28. Sourced from several artisan vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Carneros. De-stemmed whole berries were fermented in tank after a 5 to 7-day cold soak. Delestage and pumpovers managed the cap. Extended maceration of 3 to 4 weeks followed by 12 months aging in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Complex aromas and flavors of ripe Bing cherry, blackberry, cola, tobacco and forest path. Discreetly concentrated with balancing acidity and tannins and a seductively silky mouthfeel. A forward-drinking and enticing wine with commendable value. Score: 90

2013 Cutruzzola Vineyards Giacomino Reserve San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.42, TA 0.585, 88 cases, $55. Yet to be released. 5-acre vineyard in Cambria planted to clones 5, 667, “828,” 115 and 23. Vines are between 9 and 14 years old. Inaugural reserve bottling selected from favorite four barrels from the 2013 vintage. 10% whole cluster. Assmannhausen and RC212 yeasts. Extended barrel aging to 18 months in 50% new French oak. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A very juicy and elegant wine with aromas and flavors of blackberry and black cherry with a compliment of toasty oak. The tannins are modest and proportional and the wine finishes with a sweet cherry tone that catches your attention. Score: 90

2014 Decoy Sonoma County Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.55, 61,000 cases, $25. From Duckhorn Wine Company. A blend of grapes from Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and Carneros. Harvest Brix 24.6º. Aged 8 months in 100% French oak barrels, 25% new and 75% onceused. · Moderately light crimson color in the glass. Lovely aromas of cherry and barrel that hold up over time in the glass. Forward drinking and gentle, with slightly confected red cherry and raspberry fruit flavors backed by silky tannins. Amazing quality considering the price and production volume, with plenty of Pinot typicality. Score: 89

2014 J. Lohr Estates Falcon’s Perch Monterey County Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.71, TA 0.64, RS .15 g/ 100 ml, $17. Sourced from vineyards in the Arroyo Seco (46%) and Santa Lucia Highlands (54%) appellations. 3 day cold soak, fermented in 12-ton lots in open-top tanks for 5 to 10 days with light pumpovers and daily punchdowns. Matured in stainless steel with small fraction aged in French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of cassis, blackberry jam, fig and vanillin. Mid weight plus flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, candied black cherry, spice, black tea and plenty of vanilla. Soft in the mouth with tame tannins and some finish. Score: 87

2014 La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.50, >50,000 cases, $23. 3-day cold soak, punch downs three times a day during fermentation with no postfermentation maceration. Aged 8 months in French oak barrels, 17% new. Racked once out of barrel at time of blending just before bottling. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Striking aromas of Bing cherry, cola and spicy oak hold up in the glass over time. Deliciously fruited core of cherry, strawberry and cranberry flavors enhanced by a touch of oak spice and nutmeg. Crisp and juicy, with milky tannins and a silky mouthfeel. A thorough enjoyable offering perfect as a daily table wine. A most outstanding value priced Pinot Noir and amazing quality considering the huge production. Score: 90

2014 Longoria Lovely Rita Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.55, 684 cases, $32. 83% Fe Ciega Vineyard, 9% Arita Hills Vineyard and 8% Cloud 9 Vineyard. 100% de-stemmed, average 10 days fermentation, aged in French oak barrels, 12% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very nice aromas of black cherry, raspberry, compost, herbs and vanillin. A mid weight plus core of black cherry and red currants is blessed with a deft oak embellishment. Sleek and silky, with gorgeous balance and inviting intensity and length on the finish. Forward-drinking, yet has the balance to age short term. This is the best Lovely Rita bottling in recent memory. It has become increasingly difficult to find excellent value priced Pinot Noir and this wine still fits the bill. Score: 91

2013 Longoria Fe Ciega Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.60, 466 cases, $55. Sourced from Longoria’s only estate vineyard that was planted by Rick Longoria in 1998 and expanded to 10 acres in 2008. This vineyard consistently produces one of Sta. Rita Hills’ finest Pinot Noirs. 100% de-stemmed, average 2-day cold soak, inoculated with proprietary yeast strains, 11-day fermentation, aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 38% new. Lightly fined and filtered. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. More glamorous and less rugged in this vintage, with aromas of blackberry, blueberry and pomegranate as well as subtle notes of forest path and oak. The aromas are replicated on the palate in a mid weight juicy style, with matching grainy but not muscular tannins. The wine’s inviting balance and a satiny texture draw attention as does the intensely fruity finish. Score: 93

2014 MacRostie Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 450 cases, $42, screwcap. Sourced from a number of vineyards including two Dutton Ranch properties, Cummings Vineyard, and the estate Thale’s Vineyard. 100% gently de-stemmed, aged in French oak barrels from a number of different cooperages. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Nicely scented with aromas of Bing cherry, rose petal and spice. Cherry-driven and straightforward, with good balance, easy approachability and a short, pleasing finish. Score: 88

2014 MacRostie Cummings Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 487 cases, $56, screwcap. Sourced from a vineyard partner, Bruce Cummings, whose vineyard is located in the Santa Rosa Plains neighborhood of the Russian River Valley. Clones 667, 777 and 115. 100% de-stemmed, inoculated yeast fermentation following a 3-day cold soak, and aged 12 months in French oak barrels. · Light cherry red in color. Aromas of red cherry, oregano and sawmill. Light in weight with a core of red fruits in an elegantly style wine with cedar-infused and spicy oak in the background. A demure, even mildly shallow, but charming wine that has commendable balance. Score: 88

2013 Migration Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 488 cases, $68. From the Duckhorn Wine Company portfolio. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely perfume of cherry, rhubarb, sandalwood and vanilla. Cherry-driven in a mid weight style, with discreetly concentrated fruit backed by silky, fine-grain tannins. The wine finishes juicy with notes of graham and spice. Score: 90

2014 Patz & Hall Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

752 cases, $90. Includes grapes from vines that date to the 1980s. Patz & Hall has bottled a Pisoni vineyard designate since 1997. Wild and cultured yeast fermentation, 12% whole clusters, aged in French oak barrels, 70% new, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of well-ripened black fruits and terra-cotta lead to a full-bodied explosion of black berry and boysenberry fruit on entry. A masculine wine that offers palate-staining fruit along with muscular, yet polished tannins, that corral the sappy fruit core. The oak is nicely balanced and the alcohol peeks out only slightly. This vineyard always produces distinctive wines that have a Pisoni stamp that are consistent across many producers. It is rare to find such a comparable terroir-driven example in California. Score: 93

2014 Sarah’s Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 345 cases $38. Sourced from Veranda Vineyard. Winemaker is Tim Slater. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, strawberry, and sandalwood lead to a mid weight style wine with very tasty flavors of red cherry and strawberry with an oak overlay in the background. Nicely composed with silky tannins and juicy fruit flavors in a forward drinking style that aims to please. Score: 90

2014 Sojourn Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.56, 650 cases, $42. Clones 115 and 667 from Wohler Vineyard, Riddle Vineyard, Pratt Vineyard and a small amount of Reuling Vineyard. 100% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation in open-top tanks, aged in 50% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Highly aromatic, with effusive scents of Bing cherry and spice. The discretely concentrated core of dark cherry fruit is accented with hints of black tea, tar and smoke. Sleek tannins and matched acidity make for easy drinking. A modest finish features bright cherry fruit. A solid value. Score: 89


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