Recently Tasted Notable California Pinot Noirs

2014 Balletto Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.57, 8,260 cases, $29. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of Bing cherry, pie spice and tobacco lead to a light, cherrydriven wine that is suave and easy going on the palate. Flavors of spice, dried herbs and cherry cola add interest as does a deft touch of oak. The wine finishes with a flourish of cherry and strawberry highlights. Score: 88

2014 Balletto Cider Ridge Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.58, 620 cases, $42. Vineyard is located in the Sebastopol Hills at 950 feet elevation and is planted primarily to California heritage clones of Pinot Noir. Aged in French oak barrels, 26% new. Aged in French oak barrels, 26% new. · Moderate light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of oak-infused cherry and herbs. Light to mid weight flavors of red cherry, red berry, blueberry and root vegetables with an imposing oak thread. Tannins and acidity are in balance and the wine is forward drinking, but doesn’t excite. Score: 88

2014 Balletto BCD Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.57, TA 0.59, 560 cases, $42. Aged in French oak barrels, 42% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. This wine smells of crushed blueberries and the blackest cherries with a subtle touch of oak. The spiced black cherry fruit enters with purpose and explodes on the mid palate, leading to an intense, marvelous finish. Soothing and refined with nuances of cola, herbs and sweet oak adding interest. Balance is spot on in this highly enjoyable juice. Score: 92

2014 Balletto Sexton Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.6% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.59, 680 cases, $42. A cold and steep hillside vineyard located southwest of Sebastopol. Aged in French oak barrels, 32% new. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Light to mid weight in character, but very flavorful, with a noble attack of cherry and raspberry fruit flavors accented with dried herbs and oak spice and displaying a slight confected tone. Juicy and invigorating, with soft tannins and an extended finish. Score: 91

2014 Balletto Burnside Road Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., 630 cases, $44. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Black cherry and raspberry fruits are featured in the middleweight styled wine that adds a touch of nutty oak and earthy flora tone. There is noticeable length on the highly enjoyable finish that offers thirst quenching vibrancy. Score: 92

2014 Balletto Winery Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.57, 593 cases, $44. A favorite 4-acre block located west of the winery in Santa Rosa. Aged in French oak barrels, 32% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. This is a toned and trim wine that offers aromas of Bing cherry and red berry on the vine leading to an intense attack of mid weight plus melange of dark red and purple berry flavors enhanced with an overlay of spice. Impeccably balanced and juicy with a seductively soft mouthfeel and an intensely fruity finish. Score: 93

2014 Balletto Emerson Block Burnside Road Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 165 cases, $42. This 1-acre parcel is owned by the Emerson family and is surrounded by Burnside Road Vineyard. · Light cherry red color in the glass. The perfume of fresh crushed cherries, cranberries and oak spice set the stage for the light to mid weight, elegantly presented flavors of red and blue berries and cherries with a welcome touch of spice. A satiny mouthfeel entices, the tannins are suave, and the oak is woven deftly in this feminine styled, but highly flavorful, wine. Score: 92

2014 Balletto 18 Barrel Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 450 cases, $44. Composed of grapes from estate vineyards in the hills southwest of Sebastopol. · Dazzling aromas of wild berry jam and dark muddled cherries. Superb presentation of a mixture of dark red cherry and berry fruits that enter with aplomb, expand in the mouth and finish with memorable length. Silken in texture, with a splendid acid underbody, offering elegance with power. A subtle sense of earthiness, terra cotta and mushroom add a savory note that tantalizes. Score: 94

2014 Bucher Bucher Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.75, TA 0.54, 545 cases, $40. Released March 15, 2016. Composed of all seven Pinot Noir blocks in the vineyard with the backbone being Swan selection. Clones are Swan, Mt Eden, Pommard, Jackson 16, and Dijon 667. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. A cherry dominated wine with added fruit notes of black raspberry and blackberry in a mid weight plus style that is nicely composed. There is an undertone of organic manure and ashen oak that is somewhat typical of this vineyard reflective of its history as a cow pasture in the past. Score: 91

2014 Bucher Three Sixty Bucher Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.74, TA 0.55, 143 cases, $60. A distinctive blend of the vineyard providing a 360 degree view of the fruit. Jackson clone, Pommard clone, and Dijon 667 clone. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, spice and mulch open the way for flavors of dark Bing cherry, spice and cola robed in silky tannins. Good vibrancy, with a little more mid palate intent and finishing power than the RRV bottling. Less manure note also. Very RRV in character. Score: 92

2014 Bucher Pommard Clone Bucher Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.75, TA 0.60, 142 cases, $50. Released March 15, 2016. · Inaugural bottling. Harvest Brix 24.2º average. Aged 10 months in 50% new French oak barrels. Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A handsome wine with revelatory aromas of Bing cherry, strawberry and subtle toasty oak. Darker fruit flavors accented with clove spice lead the way on the mid weight palate, backed by filigree tannins. Nicely composed, with good finesse, and a pleasing finish. Score: 92

2013 Domaine Anderson Dach Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.56, TA 0.59, $65. Estate bottled. Biodynamically farmed vineyard located a half mile east of the town of Philo at an altitude of 300 feet. Vineyard is planted to a mix of heritage clones. A barrel selection of best lots. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is oak driven, offering aromas of espresso, anise and toast as well as pine sap and underbrush. A savory offering in a light to mid weight style, with fruit flavors of black cherry and black raspberry augmented by a pungent pine needle note. Unusual flavor profile and challenging to describe, but reminds of a Pinot Noir grown in a tree forest. I like this wine for its non-fruit qualities. Still a bit tight with unyielding tannins and will benefit from more bottle age. Score: 91

2013 Domaine Anderson Pinoli Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.66, TA 0.55, $65. Estate bottled. First offering from this organically farmed vineyard located northwest of Philo in the “deep end” of the Anderson Valley. Clones 667 and 777. A barrel selection from several fermentation lots. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A very elegant offering that presents all the best features of Pinot Noir. Earth-dusted black cherry, herb bunch and toasty oak lead off. Suave and charming in the mouth, with a ravishing core of black cherry fruit seasoned with a delicate touch of oak and savory dried herbs. Nicely balanced, finishing with composure and freshness. Score: 93

2014 On Point Christinna’s Cuvée North Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 217 cases, $36. A blend of 23% Landy Vineyard, 33% Donnelly Creek Vineyard and 44% Gap’s Crown Vineyard grapes. Aged 15 months in French oak, 19% new. · Moderately light reddish purple hue in the glass. A delightful blended wine offering aromas of cherry, spice, herb field and cigar box leading to a mid weight core of Bing cherry and spice flavors backed by silky tannins. A very cozy and easy to like wine that finishes with a charge of black cherry and raisin notes. Still styling the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 91

2014 Fulcrum Landy Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 91 cases, $58. Calera clone. Aged 15 months in French oak, 33% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Bright scent of fresh cherries and sandalwood. Shining Bing cherry core with added flavors of cola and baking spice framed by silky tannins and lively acidity. Oak chimes in with a bass note. Flirty in personality and quintessential Russian River Valley in character. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had taken on woodsy, darker fruited and riper profile. Score: 92

2014 Fulcrum Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 237 cases, $62. Clones 667 and “828.” Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 42% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is initially brooding, but fans out over time to reveal enticing aromas of darker berry jam, spice and earth. A remarkable attack of mid weight plus black cherry, blackberry and spice flavors are flat out delicious. This wine is impeccably balanced with impressive mid palate presence and follow through into a long, masculine finish. A 60 minute wine: the bottle is sure to be gone in 60 minutes. Score: 94

2014 Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 11,600 cases, $55. Release in fall 2016. Estate grown. 51% Quarter Moon Vineyard and 49% Pastorale Vineyard. Aged 13 months in French oak barrels, 35% new and 65% used oak puncheons and barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Delightful aromas of black cherry, blackberry, exotic spices and underbrush. Mid weight flavors of purple berries, plum, blood orange, spice and herbs combine for an enjoyable experience that is both fruity and savory. Nicely balanced with juicy acidity. Score: 92

2014 La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.54, $25. 100% de-stemmed, 70% whole berries in tank, 3-day cold soak, free run juice aged 8 months in 100% French oak barrels, 20% new. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas and flavors put cherry front and center in this light to mid weight styled wine with added accents of baking spices, cola, charred oak and vitamin. The tannins are soft in this very approachable wine, but the oak plays too big a role in overshadowing the rather delicate fruit core. I am a big fan of La Crema wines as they represent very good value, but this is not one of my favorites. Score: 87

2014 MacPhail Lakeview Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.62, 211 cases, $49. Clones 114 and 115. Harvest Brix 24.2º. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, inoculated yeast primary and native malolactic fermentations, batonnage weekly for 3 months, and aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 25% new. Bottled unfined and lightly filtered. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. A complex nose offers aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, spices including oregano and vanilla, and pipe smoke. Mid weight plus flavors echo the nose fruits with a gentle nod of oak. The dreamy texture satisfies and the spiced blueberry finish elevates the experience. Score: 93

2014 MacPhail Wightman House Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., 119 cases, $55. Martini clone. Harvest Brix 24.0º. 100% de-stemmed. 5-day cold soak, inoculated primary and native malolactic fermentations, batonnage weekly for 3 months, aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 61% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is primary, with mainly oak scents. Much more expressive on the palate in a full bodied style replete with luscious flavors of dark red and black berries. A husky, rugged and rustic wine that sports opulent tannins but still has a pervasive charm and can be enjoyed for its individuality. Score: 91

2014 MacPhail Mardikian Estate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.54, 341 cases, $85. Clones 114, 115, 667, 777, 2a, Pommard, Martini and Swan. Harvest Brix 22.7º-25.0º. 100% destemmed, 5-day cold soak, inoculated primary and native malolactic fermentations. Aged 16 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 35% new. Bottled unfined and lightly filtered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Heavenly scents of raspberry, black cherry and dried herbs lead off. Sleek, refined and polished in the mouth, with both weight of flavor and weightlessness. Savory spices and herbs compliment the red cherry and berry essence. Not the biggest hunk, but very seductive. Score: 93

2014 MacPhail Vagon Rouge Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.59, 248 cases, $65. A special barrel blend. Sourced from Lakeview, Dutton Ranch-Thomas Road, Susanna’s and Mardikian Estate vineyards. Clones 115, 667, 2a, Martini, Swan and qhv Swan. Harvest Brix 22.7º-25.5º. 100% destemmed, 5-day cold soak, native yeast primary and malolactic fermentations. Aged 17 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Beautifully balanced and easy to enjoy, with aromas and flavors of blueberry, boysenberry and blackberry seasoned with a deft touch of oak, finishing with good depth and vigor. Silky in the mouth, with welcome poise. Score: 92

2014 Migration Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 19,675 cases, $38. Released March 2016. Aged 10 months in 100% French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of dark red and black berry fruits, spice and shaved oak lead to a mid weight plus styled wine with exemplary balance and pleasing flavors of Bing cherries, cola and brown spice, finishing with a modest but very pleasing finish of pretentious fruit. An impressive offering considering the large production and one that is widely available in markets countrywide. Score: 90

2013 Schermeister Rodgers Creek Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 150 cases, $49. Pommard and Dijon 777 clones. Native fermentation, extended maceration with 35 days on skins, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 50% new and 50% once used. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Piquant oak infuses the nose and palate in this mid weight wine featuring flavors of black cherry, pomegranate and blackberry. Forward drinking, with a sexy texture and good follow through on the finish. The fruit definitely pushes the ripeness envelope and the oak overlay pushes for dominance. Score: 88

2013 WesMar Sonoma County Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $39. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Pleasant aromas of cherry, oak spice and old book. Light to mid weight flavors of red berry and cherry in a simple, straightforward style of wine with the right overlay of oak and a very modest finish. A solid everyday table wine. Score: 87

2013 WesMar Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., $40. · Medium reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of muddled dark cherries lead to a middleweight core of black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors with a touch of cola. Satiny smooth in texture and easy to like, with a simple but pleasing finish. Score: 88

2013 WesMar Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $39. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Very shy aromas of red cherry, strawberry and cedary oak. Light to mid weight flavors of red cherry and cranberry are framed by chalky tannins, an earthy mantle, and a thread of oak. Score: 88

2013 WesMar Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., $40. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of wild berries, floral array, pungent herbs and oak lead off. More appealing on the palate with mid weight flavors of blueberry-pomegranate and spice in a soothing style with satisfying harmony and a modest finish. Score: 89

2013 WesMar Salzgeber Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., $45. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Ripe, darker stone and berry fruit aromas lead off. This wine will appeal to those who prefer very ripe fruited Pinot Noir. Flavors of blackberry and cassis are framed by firm, but supportive tannins. Soft in the mouth with a black fruit driven finish that leaves a hint of alcoholic warmth in its wake. Score: 89

2013 WesMar Oehlman Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., $42. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasant aromas of Bing cherry and the vineyard’s signature baking spice. Simple and modest in sap, with a mid weight core of black cherry fruit and commendable oak seasoning in the background. The tannins are restrained and the acidity is juicy in this well balanced offering. Score: 90

2013 WesMar Balletto Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., $42. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. A cherry bombast featuring aromas and flavors of fresh cherries. Silky in the mouth and rewarding, but not challenging, in a light to mid weight style that hints of alcoholic warmth on the finish. Score: 89

2014 Bernardus Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 381 cases, $55. Release September 1, 2016. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Fruit-driven aromas of red and black cherry are blended with oak-driven scents of toast and cigar smoke. The black cherry fruit is dusted with flavors of toasty oak, black tea and dark chocolate. Earthbound, with filigree tannins and a modest finish. Score: 89

2014 Bernardus Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 412 cases, $55. Release September 1, 2016. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Oak leads off prominently on the nose, fading with time in the glass to reveal an hi-tone array of darker berry aromas. The sumptuous black cherry and blackberry fruits alert the palate as does the oak overlay in the background. More tannic bones and more intensity of finish in this wine compared to the Soberanes Vineyard bottling. Score: 90

2014 Bernardus Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 413 cases, $65. Release September 1, 2016. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Fabulous aromas of cherry, raspberry and sandalwood picking up intensity over time in the glass. Very silky and deeply flavored with tastes of dark red cherries and berries highlighted with oak seasoning. Appealingly elegant in style, with welcome harmony, and a soft, lavish finish. Score: 92

2014 Bernardus Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., 185 cases, $65. Release September 1, 2016. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose dazzles with penetrating aromas of fresh blueberries, pomegranate, spice and tobacco. Noticeably more sappy than the Rosella’s in a mid weight plus style with gorgeous dark fruit that envelopes the mid palate and finishes with uncommon intensity and length. The oak is well integrated as well. Score: 93

2014 Bernardus Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 446 cases, $70. Release September 1, 2016. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Shy fruit aromas of darker red and purple berries and fresh, vivid and luscious black cherry and black raspberry flavors combine for a sublime drinking experience. Nicely balanced with a powerful, lengthy finish. Pisoni Vineyards always delivers. Score: 93

2014 Fulcrum Brousseau Vineyard Chalone AVA Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 143 cases, $58. Clones 113, 114 and 115. Aged 15 months in French oak, 35% new. · Dark reddish purple hue in the glass. Earthbound aromas of boysenberry and blackberry with a hint of oil slick. Smooth on the palate, but husky in character, with mid weight plus flavors of purple and black berries. This vineyard tends to produce a highly structured wine, and the tannins are evident but supportive without being intrusive in this wine. The finish is replete with gorgeous purple fruit that seems to persist for over half a minute. Score: 92

2012 Ken Brown Radian Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.61, 203 cases, $70. This vineyard is located at the extreme western end of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA and is one of the coldest vineyards on the West Coast. Soils are rocky clay loam with generous amounts of diatomaceous earth. 70% clone 667 and 30% clone 115. 100% de-stemmed, cold soak, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 38% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The proximity to the ocean is reflected in this wine with its aroma of sea breeze accompanying scents of black raspberry, blackberry and graphite. A complex and unique wine, with mid weight plus flavors of purple and black fruits, anise, cardamom, and cassis. Rich and sappy, but refined, with impeccable balance, and an extremely persistent finish that dazzles with charming purple fruited aromatic goodness. Score: 94

2013 Ken Brown La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.54, 287 cases, $60. 69% Swan selection and 31% Dijon 115 clone. 100% de-stemmed, cold soak, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of cherry syrup and red berry preserves are lavish. Satiny and quite elegant in the mouth, with tame tannins, integrated acidity, a deft touch of oak, and a vibrant array of dark red fruits that linger modestly on the finish. One of the more distinguished wines I have had from this vineyard. Score: 92

2013 Ken Brown Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., pH 3.69, TA 0.53, 208 cases, $65. Pommard clone planted in low vigor, sandy loam rich in calcareous shale. 100% de-stemmed, cold soak, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 32% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely perfume of fresh cherries, red berries, spice and shaved oak. Deft balance between fruit richness, tannins and acidity, displaying impressive fruit purity through flavors of cherry, cranberry, raspberry and spice. A gorgeous wine that is both elegant and ephemeral. Score: 93

2014 Ken Brown Duncan’s Cuvée Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.54, 277 cases, $40. 7% Rio Vista, 14% Radian and 9% LaFond vineyards. 100% de-stemmed, cold soak, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 28% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Love the nose on this beauty with its bright aromas of cherry, strawberry, mushroom, and sous-bois. A forward drinking mid weight wine propelled by a luscious red fruit core underlain with the right touch of oak spice. Harmonious, with a sleek demeanor and a quenching, pleasing finish. Score: 92

2015 Manzoni Pedregal Vineyard San Benito County Rosé of Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., 127 cases, $23, screwcap. Release summer 2016. Grower Ray Franscioni and winemaker David Coventry. . · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Splendid aromas of red berries, watermelon, blood orange and dried herbs. A richer style of rosé that drinks almost like a regular still Pinot Noir, yet never wavers from its rosé genetics. The flavors of red berries, Damsel plum, red cherry and watermelon are pleasingly assembled and polished in the mouth. Score: 91

2014 Manzoni Home Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 1,385 cases, $35. Release summer 2016. Grower Mark Manzoni and winemaker David Coventry. Clones 777, 115 and a La Tache suitcase selection. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry syrup, spice cabinet and sweet oak draw your nose into the glass. Forward drinking, with flavors of black cherry, cola, spice and an oak overlay that is noticeable but comforting. The wine finishes with an intensely fruity and juicy ending that lingers. An exceptional value. Score: 93

2014 Nielson by Byron Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., pH 3.58, TA 0.55, $45, screwcap. Swan and Calera clones. 33% whole cluster fermented. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of Hoison sauce, clove and blackberry jam lead off. A forward drinking wine that offers flavors of nutty oak-kissed black cherry and blueberry-pomegranate. The tannins are in check and the wine holds its alcohol well. I wanted more from the nose, but the wine is very giving on the palate and the whole cluster addition rounds out nicely the texture. Score: 90

2014 Paul Lato “Suerte” Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $80. Unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose is quite woody, with added aromas of black cherry, oak spice and charcoal. The seductive black cherry and black raspberry core is complimented by spice, vanilla and smoky oak notes. Elegant in style, with refined tannins, but lacks finishing length. Very solid, but not up to previous Solomon Hills bottlings that were extraordinary. Could have been an off bottle. Score: 89

2014 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., $65. Unfiltered. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Shy scent of cherry, cranberry, baking spices and cardamom. Lighter in weight, but highly flavorful, offering a jubilee of cherry goodness. Elegant and silky in the mouth, with very favorable attack and finish. This wine is why I call Paul Lato, “Paul Elelato,” because his wines are often elegance personified. Score: 93

2014 Paul Lato “Lancelot” Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $85. Unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Deeply scented nose of cherry, herbs and steak sauce. Rather tame for a Pisoni wine, even an anathema, but reflects the Paul Lato style. A mid weight earthbound cherry core shows off the ripest of the fruit tasted in the three wines reviewed here. As typical for Pisoni Vineyard, the wine has a strong physique, but yet is highly approachable in this case. Pisoni Vineyard is truly one of a handful of Grand Cru California vineyards and representative wines always reflect its excellence and terroir in one way or another. Score: 94

2014 Presqu’ile Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

12.9% alc., $42. 90% Presqu’ile Vineyard, 10% Bien Nacido Vineyard. Clones 777, 667, 115, Pommard and Mt Eden. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. 47% whole cluster. Grapes harvested at a relatively low Brix, minimal new oak aging. SIP certified. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens grudgingly in the glass offering aromas of smoky oak, hazelnuts, pungent herbs with no fruit. Better in the mouth, with mid weight flavors of black cherry and black raspberry that have good phenolic ripeness and are backed by a healthy tannic backbone. Very modest on the finish, and a bit too oak-infused and herbaceous for my taste. Score: 87

2014 Presqu’ile Steiner Creek Vineyard San Luis Obispo Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., pH 3.48, TA 0.74, $48. Vineyard is located 3 miles north of Cambria on the Phelan Ranch. 11 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay planted by Greg Phelan in 2008. Pinot Noir clones 667, 777, 115 and Pommard. Cobbled riverbed soils and proximity to the Pacific Ocean lead to low yields naturally. 50% whole cluster. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of blackberry jam, black cherries, dried herbs and spice. The blackberry, blueberry and pomegranate fruit flavors really pop in the mouth, holding court through a generous mid palate and finishing with panache and length. An herbal and vegetal thread in the background is from whole cluster inclusion and detracts rather than elevates the wine currently. Score: 90

2013 Reata Three County California Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $15. 53% Monterey County, 31% Sonoma County and 16% San Benito County blend. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of blackberry jam, spice, tar and barrel lead to a well endowed, rib-sticking core of blackberry, cassis, and anise flavors shadowed by slightly coarse and firm tannins. Soft in the mouth, this wine displays fully ripened fruit, an overlay of charred oak, and a dry and slightly astringent finish. Score: 86

2014 Samuel Louis Smith Radian Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

12.8% alc., 73 cases, $42. Vineyard is located at the far western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Steep, with wind swept slopes and sedimentary soils. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Earthbound aromas of cherry and cranberry fruits lead to a lighter styled, somewhat austere wine featuring flavors of cherry, cranberry and blueberry. Infused with typical Sta. Rita Hills acidity, this wine has engaging traits, but it may be too somber for some California palates. More expressive the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 90

2014 Weatherborne Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.65, 450 cases, $35, screwcap. Released April 2016. Winemaker Chris Carter is a one-man operation producing one wine. Composed of grapes from John Sebastiano (72%) and Kessler-Haak (18%) vineyards. Harvest Brix 23.9º. 38% whole cluster, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 10% new. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, purple grape and sandalwood are followed in the mouth by a juicy, mid weight core of cherry delight that attacks with intention and brings the mid palate to life. Smooth and comforting, with commendable oak management and a delightful, spice-laden finish. Score: 91