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Final California Wine Reviews of 2016

December is an ideal time to buy Pinot Noir as many wineries are offering Holiday discounts including price reductions on 6 and 12 bottle purchases and free shipping. I wanted to get these reviews published so the wineries could be considered in your December buys. It is often advisable to call the wineries personally and discuss your needs as this interaction can lead to the most generous discounts.



Albatross Ridge, San Francisco

The Albatross Ridge 25-acre vineyard is located just seven miles from the Pacific Ocean in Carmel Valley at 1,250 feet elevation with limestone and shale soils. The site is cool and windswept with degree days falling below the upper threshold for the coolest Winkler Region I winegrowing designation (annual growing degree days from the estate vineyard are between 1650 and 1950 GDD). The result is a very long growing season allowing the grapes to achieve ripe flavors even at low Brix.

2014 Albatross Ridge Estate Reserve Carmel Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., pH 3.64, 300 cases, $55. Harvest Brix 22.0º-23.0º. Yield 1.25 tons per acre.15% whole cluster. 4-day cold soak, long, cool fermentation in small open-top tanks. Multiple individual native fermentations involving four clones of Pinot Noir spread over eight unique blocks. The majority clone is “828,” with additions of 777 and Pommard clone. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. A selection of the finest barrels of the vintage. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens quickly to reveal aromas of purple berries and sous-bois. Exquisitely balanced and unctuous on the palate, with nicely ripened flavors of black cherry and boysenberry. Very polished, with seamless tannins, and a thread of dried herbs that adds a savory note. Score: 92

2014 Albatross Ridge Estate Carmel Valley Chardonnay

13.0% alc., pH 3.29, 280 cases, $55. Clones 96 and 15. Yield 1.25 tons per acre. 100% whole cluster pressed and native barrel fermented on the lees with no lees stirring or racking. 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Exuberant aromas of citrus, warm brioche, spice, nutty oak and sea breeze. Beautifully crafted with spot on balance, offering flavors of citrus, Bartlett pear, apple, subtle oak and a hint of salinity. The sustained finish is particularly notable. Score: 93



Anaba Wines, Sonoma

The first wines from the new Anaba winemaker team of Ross Cobb and Katy Wilson are being released. Ross and Katy joined Anaba in 2014 and work at the winery in Carneros. The Pinot Noirs have taken on a noticeable elegance.

2014 Anaba Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.61, 1,215 cases, $42. A blend of three vineyards in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley AVA along with two others in the Sonoma Coast that overlaps with the Russian River Valley. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Harvest Brix 24.1º. Clones are Pommard, 115, 777, 667, “828,” and 9. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, fermented separately by clone, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Deep aroma of fresh cherry pie and nutty oak. Light to mid weight in style with appealing elegance and balance. Very approachable darker cherry flavor with a deft touch of oak spice. A bit shallow on the attack and mid palate. Score: 88

2014 Anaba Las Brisas Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.64, 180 cases, $48. This vineyard is owned by Francis Mahoney, one of the most influential figures in Carneros Pinot Noir. Harvest Brix 24.1º. Clones are Swan, 667 and 777. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, each clone fermented separately, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of black cherry and spice. Elegant in demeanor, with light to mid weight juicy flavors of black cherry and black raspberry with an earthy underpinning. Impeccable balance, with a modest oak-kissed finish. Score: 89

2014 Anaba Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

13.6% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.61, 887 cases, $36. A blend of grapes from three vineyards: the Anaba J McK Estate Vineyard, Denmark Vineyard and Dutton Ranch (Mill Station and Shop Block). Harvest Brix 23.9º. Whole cluster pressed before barrel fermentation. 60% malolactic fermentation. Aged 17 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. A generous wine with good spirit, offering aromas of honeyed pear, buttery lemon tart, crème brûlée and ocean air. Flavors of lemon creme, melon, blonde caramel and nutty oak aim to please and the uplifting citrusdriven finish is highly refreshing. Score: 92



Alma Fria, Holtermann Family Wines, Healdsburg

After three generations in wine imports, the Holtermann family planted new roots in the remote ridge tops of Annapolis on the Sonoma Coast. The small-production wines are sold primarily through a mailing list at www.almafria.com. Alma Fria is pronounced “ai-mah-free-ah.”

2014 Alma Fria Plural Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., 325 cases, $40. Native fermentation, aged 12 months in French oak barrels, 10% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Inviting aromas of strawberry, cherry and the slightest oak. Light to mid weight flavors of black cherry, strawberry, baking spices and seasoning oak backed by integrated tannins and some noticeable intensity on the finish that has good cut. An early drinking wine with attractive finesse. Score: 89

2014 Alma Fria Holtermann Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., 140 cases, $62. Vineyard planted in 2002 in Annapolis at 700-800 feet elevation. 10% whole cluster. Native fermentation, aged 12 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. I really was intrigued with the nose that offered scents of cherry, blackberry, bourbon and spice box. Both fruity and savory on the palate in a middleweight style. Fruit flavors of black cherry and raspberry interplay with savory notes of forest and herbs. The wine becomes more expressive over time in the glass. Score: 92

2014 Alma Fria Doña Margarita Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., 195 cases, $62. Vineyard planted in 2002 in Freestone at 400-625 feet elevation. 10% whole cluster. Native fermentation, aged 12 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasant aromas of cherry, red berry, sandalwood and rose petal. Elegantly composed and nicely balanced, with light to mid weight flavors of cherry, grape, boysenberry, spice and cedary oak. Very giving now, with gossamer tannins and a finish filled with spiced fruit goodness. Score: 92

2014 Alma Fria Plural Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

13.5% alc., 175 cases, $40. Native fermentation. Aged 14 months in no new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Very light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The complex nose offers aromas of lemon, cut yellow apple, marzipan, vanilla creme and sawdust. Lush in the mouth yet rather delicate and easy going with a good cut of acidity well immersed. Flavors of citrus including grapefruit and lemon stand out. Score: 91



Black Kite Cellars, Santa Rosa,

Tom and Rebecca Green Birdsall offer Estate Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs made from the Kite’s Rest Vineyard, as well as small lot bottlings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from similarly expressive vineyard sites in the Sonoma Coast and Santa Lucia Highlands. These Black Kite Cellars fall releases are available through the winery website at www.blackkitecellars.com and wine club, as well as through distribution in select wine shops and restaurants nationally.

2014 Black Kite Cellars Kite’s Rest Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., 1,254 cases, $50. Clones 114, 115 and Pommard. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of dark cherry and berry and spice with plenty of oak chiming in harmony. Well ripened mid plus style wine with flavors of black cherry, coffee and toast. Structured with a very appealing silky texture and not too warm. The mouthfeel is the best feature, but there is too much oak overlay for full enjoyment. Score: 89

2014 Black Kite Cellars Redwoods’ Edge Block Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., 193 cases, $60. Clones 114 and 115. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 66% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens slowly with swirling offering aromas of black cherry and baking cocoa. Deeply flavored dark, dark black cherry and spice framed by fine-grain tannins and integrated oak. The silky texture appeals and the wine finishes with juiciness and extended length. Score: 91

2014 Black Kite Cellars Stony Terrace Block Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., 193 cases, $60. 100% Pommard clone. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 66% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of piquant coffee grounds and black cherry. The mid weight plus core of darkest cherry, boysenberry and blackberry fruits are framed by firm tannins. Similar to the River Turn, but more vibrancy and more tannin. The lasting finish reveals some subtle alcoholic heat. Score: 90

2014 Black Kite Cellars River Turn Block Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., 193 cases, $60. 100% Pommard clone. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 66% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Moody aromas of dark cherry and berry, dark chocolate, barbecue and oak. Full bodied, with a luxurious core of velvety-textured purple and black berry fruits. A ripe, hedonistic wine, with edgy tannins that fit in and balance nicely the prodigious fruit. Score: 91

2014 Black Kite Cellars Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., 572 cases, $50. Pisoni selection. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Blackest cherry, ripe strawberry and toasty oak drive the aromas and flavors in this mid weight styled wine. Plenty of oak plies the nose, even the following day when tasted from a previously opened and recorked bottle. The dreamy texture captivates, the tannins are soft, and the finish aims to please. Score: 90

2014 Black Kite Cellars Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 120 cases, $50. Pisoni selection. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Seasoned oak and dark fruits combine in an inviting perfume. Fruit-driven, with a luscious core of lip smacking blackberry and red and black raspberry fruits. The copious fruit and alcohol adds a bit of sweetness and a velvety mouthfeel. Assertive dark fruits embellish the finish that leaves a hint of alcoholic warmth in its wake. Score: 90

2014 Black Kite Cellars Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 292 cases, $60. Dijon 777 clone. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The beguiling nose offers scents of black cherry, raspberry coulis and a hint of toast and vanillin. Nicely structured with round shoulders, this wine features overreaching flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, and dark chocolate supported by bright acidity and fine-grain tannins. Easy to like, finishing with a burst of chocolate-covered cherry flavor. This wine just seems to stand out. Score: 92



Byron Winery, Santa Maria

Byron has returned to its original focus on small lot Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara’s best vineyards and in 2014 include the first releases from the Sta. Rita Hills appellation. Individual rows and blocks are selected to express the site. Jonathan Nagy is the winemaker. Byron wines are available through the Los Olivos tasting room, mailing list and website at www.byronwines.com. I found the oak treatment a bit heavy handed in this wines that are otherwise blessed with gorgeous fruit. Some of the wines have been downgraded because of the heavy-handed oak.

2014 Byron La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 277 cases, $55. Clone 777. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 42% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, anise and pungent herbs reaching more expression over time in the glass. The mid weight core of earthy black cherry and blackberry fruits are embellished with herbal oak. A savory wine, with modest, balanced tannins and a revealing satiny texture that attracts interest. I tasted this wine over and over and just couldn’t find compelling delight. Score: 87

2014 Byron Rita’s Crown Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., 295 cases, $65. Clone “828.” Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 46% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry and subtle oak leave a good impression. Mid weight flavors of dark red cherries and berries with a very appealing expression of cherry fruit, especially on the finish. The tannins are silky, there is good acidity, and the oak offers subtle seasoning. A highly respectable wine that can be enjoyed now but will last in the cellar. Score: 93

2014 Byron John Sebastiano Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 349 cases, $55. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 45% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Boastful black cherry fruit aromas are shy but appealing. Oak-kissed flavors of black cherry and boysenberry are elevated with juicy acidity. Discretely concentrated, with a silky mouthfeel, and some notable fruit engages on the finish. Score: 92

2014 Byron Julia’s Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., 342 cases, $45. Pommard 4 clone. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 39% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is dominated by oak-driven scents of coffee grounds and toast. Much more appealing on the palate, with mid weight flavors of dark red cherries and berries and heavy accents of oak toast and spice. Forward drinking and nicely balanced with sleek tannins, yet oak currently plays too big a role for me in this wine. Still replete with oak-infused black cherry flavor when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 87

2014 Byron Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 348 Cases, $45. Clone 667. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 31% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Oak-driven aromas of espresso, toast and spice lead to a lively palate of oak-kissed black cherry fruit. The fruit is juicy and vibrant, the tannins are modest and the finish attracts attention with its energy and gift of bright fruit. I wanted more fruit on the nose, and less oak infusion, but the wine delivered plenty of pleasure in the mouth. Score: 88

2014 Byron Monument Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., 390 cases, $65. Clones Wädenswil 2A, Pommard, Swan, Benedict Selection. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 78% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is primary, offering little even with vigorous swirling, except notes of oak-driven coffee and spice. Much more giving on the mid weight palate, offering fresh flavors of black raspberry and black cherry fruits. The satiny texture is very seductive and the wine is impeccably balanced with oak delicately augmenting the fruit flavors. Score: 92

2014 Byron Nielson Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., 1,984 cases, $45. Clones 114, 667, Pommard and Wädenswil 2A. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Boisterous aromas of dark red cherry and berry with a compliment of oak. Mid weight plus core of black cherry and boysenberry fruit flavors in a rather simple but pleasurable style. The mid palate has noticeable intent, the tannins are nicely balanced, there is an noticeable oak thread plying the background, and the finish shows some vigor. Score: 90

2014 Byron Nielson Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay

14.3% alc., 348 cases, $40. Wente and Dijon 95 and 76 clones. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 54% new. · Very light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Highly enviable aromas of lemon zest, almond, vanilla and brioche. Very enterprising on the palate, with hi-tone flavors of lemon, pear, white peach, melon and spice. Sleek in texture and refined in character with a palate cleansing finish. Score: 93

2014 Byron Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay

14.3% alc., 255 cases, $45. Clones 95 and Wente 4. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 58% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Toast dominates the nose that also offers scents of citrus, white peach and pear. Much better with time in the glass with more energetic fruit aromas. The flavors of lemon, white peach, pear, fig and butter echo the nose but with more citrus singing. Sleek and clean, with a razor finish. Score: 88



La Follette Wines, Sebastopol

Noted winemaker Greg La Follette specializes in vineyard-designated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. These two North Coast blends are more value priced and offered in more widespread distribution. Sites are selected for their potential contribution to the overall blend. In 2014, a warm growing season hastened the onset of harvest, and picking the Pinot Noir began in the third week of August. Tasting is available at The Barlow in Sebastopol.

2014 La Follette North Coast Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.53, TA 0.62, 7,458 cases, $22, screwcap. Heart of this blend is Pinot Noir grown in the cool Petaluma Gap region of the Sonoma Coast AVA. Grapes from two family owned and organically farmed vineyards in Mendocino County round out the wine. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A mix of black cherry, peppery spices and black toast aromas lead to a mid weight wine with deep cherry flavor embellished with a note of spice. Silky tannins but enough structure to give the wine shoulders. Easy drinking, with a modicum of oak underlay and a modest but crisp finish. Score: 88

2014 La Follette North Coast Chardonnay

13.8% alc., pH 3.49, TA 0.60, 3,335 cases, $22, screwcap. Grapes for this blend come from both Mendocino County and the Sonoma Coast. A blend of tank and barrel fermentations. · Very light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of lemon wafer, honey, spice, brioche and buttery oak lead off. Inviting brightness on the palate, with flavors of lemon, pineapple, green apple and grapefruit, and a pleasing texture that hints at creaminess. Score: 88



MacPhail Wines (formerly MacPhail Family Vineyards), Sonoma County

James MacPhail launched his namesake winery, MacPhail Family Wines, in 2002 and the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay offerings achieved widespread success, and seemed to escalate in quality each year. In 2011, the winery was sold to The Hess Collection with James staying on as winemaker. In June, 2016, James left the winery and was replaced by consulting winemaker Matt Courtney (Arista). The winery changed its name to MacPhail Wines.

The 2014 vintage wines reviewed here are the last that James vinified in entirety under the MacPhail Family Wines label. Overall, I found that oak played a noticeable role in the aromatic and flavor profile of several of these Pinot Noirs and they may warrant higher scores when they are released next year as the oak further integrates. The Sonoma Coast bottling is the most forward drinking in the lineup and has been released.

For all these Pinot Noirs, the grapes are 100% de-stemmed, undergo a 5-day pre-fermentation cold soak, followed by fermentation with feral yeasts and/or proprietary yeast. Malolactic fermentation is usually native. Battonage in barrel once weekly for three months with a total aging of 11 months (17 months for the Pratt Vineyard bottling) in French oak barrels. The wines are bottled unfined and either lightly filtered or unfiltered.

2014 MacPhail Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.56, 2,350 cases, $40. Release fall 2016. A blend of ten vineyard sources. Clones 114, 115, Pommard 4, 23, 667, 777, “828,” Martini, Calera and Swan. Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasant aromas of black cherry, mulch and vanilla. Welcome fruit richness on the palate, with flavors of black cherry, boysenberry and blackberry infused with noticeable oak overlay. The tannins are reigned in, the mouthfeel is plush and the wine offers some generous fruit on the finish. The most approachable wine in the 2014 lineup. Score: 89

2014 MacPhail Ferrington Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.64, 94 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. First MacPhail bottling from Ferrington Vineyard since 2010. Harvest Brix 24.0º-25.3º. Clones 667, “828,” and Pommard. Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 26% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose leads with aromas of black cherry, toast and tobacco. Mid weight flavors of oak-kissed black cherry and blackberry fruits have noticeable intensity and freshness. The tannins are nicely balanced, there is a hint of welcome spice, and the deep cherry finish impresses. The wine attracts more attention with time in the glass. Score: 91

2014 MacPhail Toulouse Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., pH 3.82, TA 0.58, 459 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. Clones are Pommard, 115, 667, 777 and Wädenswil 2A. Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 38% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. There is more oak in this wine than I like, but otherwise it is a captivating wine. Aromas of boysenberry, blackberry, cola and toasty oak are replicated in the mid weight loquacious flavors. There is admirable lift and juiciness, with silky tannins, with oak striving for attention on the finish. A little less oak intrusion was noted on the following day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 90

2014 MacPhail Sundawg Ridge Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.59, 409 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. Clones are Pommard, 115 and Calera. Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of cherry, peppery spices, earth and sweet oak. Highly seductive in the mouth with a lush texture and ripe flavors of strawberry, black cherry and black raspberry. A very polished and harmonious wine with good energy, deft barrel management and a grand finish. Considerably better the following day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 92

2014 MacPhail Dutton Ranch Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.57, 297 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. Thomas Road and Manzana vineyards. Harvest Brix 25.5º-26.0º. Clones 115, 777 and “828.” Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 34% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of fresh cherry, baking spice and toasty oak lead off. In the mouth, there is a modest attack of black cherry and blackberry fruits accented with vivid oak. The texture is suave, the tannins are well balanced, and the wine finishes with a flourish of dared bed berry goodness. Score: 89

2014 MacPhail Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 108 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. Harvest Brix 23.8º. Clones 115, 667 and 777. Aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 34% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Oak dominates the character of this wine that has aromas of cherry, old book and toast and flavors of black cherry, dark berries, spice and tobacco. Decent balance of t n’a and some finish filled with sweet dark berry fruits. Score: 88

2014 MacPhail Pratt Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.46, TA 0.61, 203 cases, $49. Release spring 2017. One of California’s premier Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards. Harvest Brix 24.5º. Clones are Pommard 4 and 5, 114, 115, 777 and 23. Aged 17 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A very classy wine that impresses from the get-go with aromas of dark cherry and underbrush and flavors of blueberry, boysenberry and spice in an elegantly styled wine with good oak integration, filigree tannins and a long, sleek finish. This wine stands out among the 2014 lineup of MacPhail Pinot Noir wines tasted on this date. Score: 92

2014 MacPhail Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.3% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.60, 145 cases, $45. Harvest Brix 23.9º. Release fall 2016. Clones are Dijon 76 and 96. Barrel fermented, native fermentation, 100% malolactic fermentation, lees stirring once weekly through primary fermentation. Aged 17 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 15% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. Aromas of fresh-squeezed lemon and honeycomb lead to flavors of citrus, poached yellow apple, vanilla cream and caramel. Slightly creamy in texture, with integrated acidity and finish filled with caramelized apple flavor. Score: 90



Navarro Vineyards, Philo

The two Pinot Noirs reviewed here from Navarro offer a very instructive contrast. At Navarro, no sulfur dioxide is added to crushed grapes or juice, so they assume spoilage yeasts (Brettanomyces - the Greek word for “British fungus” as it was causing spoilage in English ales around 1900) might appear in the winery. Therefore, they take extra precautions to keep the winery sanitary and each barrel is carefully monitored. Typically the Pinot Noir is sold after it has been in bottle a year or two and during this time a second fermentation can occur due to Brettanomyces. Navarro prefers not to filter Pinot Noir as it strips the wine of some of its richness, so before bottling, each wine is checked for potential spoilage yeasts. Normally the winery’s unfiltered Pinot Noir is limited to a few hundred cases each vintage to keep potential losses at a minimum, but the 2014 Pinot Noirs seemed generally free of problem yeasts, so they bottled 40 percent of the 2014 Méthode à l’Ancienne Pinot Noir unfiltered. Both the filtered and unfiltered versions of this Pinot Noir were vinified in an identical manner including aging for nearly a year in French oak barrels, 30% new. A total of 4,526 cases of the wine in its two configurations were produced. Tasting the two wines side-by-side, it is easy to discern noticeable differences, and I much preferred the unfiltered version of the same wine.

2014 Navarro Vineyards Méthode à l’Ancienne Anderson Valley Pinot Noir (Filtered)

13.9% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.65, $32. Harvest Brix 24.9º. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, cranberry and raspberry mix with dried herb scents. Light to mid weight styled and cherry driven, with accents of spice and dried herbs. Sleek and elegant, but somewhat shallow on the mid palate, finishing modestly. The wine seems stripped of its character compared to the unfiltered bottling. Score: 88

2014 Navarro Vineyards Méthode à l’Ancienne Anderson Valley Pinot Noir (Unfiltered)

13.9% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.65, $35. Harvest Brix 24.9º. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Considerably more aromatic than the filtered wine, with soaring aromas of darker cherries, spice and earthy flora. Fuller, weightier and more round shouldered on the palate with beguiling fruit flavors of black cherry and black raspberry. A subtle thread of savory herbs plies the background. The texture is very soothing and the wine offers more fruit and length on the finish than the filtered twin. Still quite enjoyable the following day from a previously opened and recorked bottle. Score: 91

2014 Navarro Vineyards Premiére Reserve Anderson Valley Chardonnay

13.5% alc., pH 3.39, TA 0.76, 827 cases, $27. Harvest Brix 24.0º. After a leisurely fermentation, the must was racked to French oak barrels, 28% new, underwent full malolactic fermentation, and aged 10 months on the lees. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. The nose attracts interest with scents of lemon oil, pomelo, nutty oak and garrigue. Flavors of lemon, pineapple, honey, almond and toast blend nicely and are lifted by prime acidity. The wine leaves a good impression with a clean, bright finish displaying good cut. Score: 90



Sojourn Cellars, Sonoma

I had the opportunity to taste these wines on my own as well as with winemaker Erich Bradley. It is always extremely helpful as a wine critic to taste with winemakers because I get a feel for what the winemaker is trying to accomplish stylistically, why they chooses certain vineyards to work with, and what challenges they face. I am reminded of the quote from Tim Atkin MW, “I believe the place where a wine was made, not to mention the character, ambition and talent of the person who made it, is highly relevant to how that wine tastes. I want to know about these things, just as I want to know about vintage conditions, personal eccentricities and a winemaker’s take on the world. All these things make wine different: all these things make wine special.” When a winemaker talks more about vineyards and viticulture than winemaking, like Erich does, I know the wines have a better chance of excellence.

The 2015 vintage on the Sonoma Coast was outstanding for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, although yields were lower than average. Bud break was early and drought conditions prevailed throughout the growing season.

Harvest was one of the earliest on record. Vines produced loose clusters and smaller berries with ripe tannins. Erich noted, “The resulting wines display tremendous finesse, depth and aromatic intensity.”

All the vineyards Erich works with are very cool sites with extended growing seasons, yet the grapes are able to reach phenolic maturity without high Brix levels. Erich looks for gracious Pinot Noir that has enviable textures. He carefully matches his choice of cooperage with each vineyard to best pull out the most desirable characteristics and expression of the vineyard.

The wines reviewed here were bottled in July and August, 2016, (Chardonnay) and at the end of August (Pinot Noir), 2016, and are just now beginning to be expressive. They will be released at the end of January 2017, but the vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs are still immature without full oak integration and will surely offer more pleasurable drinking with another 6 to 12 months of cellaring. 2015 vintage case production was 7,450 cases of Pinot Noir and 1,667 cases of Chardonnay. Tasting is available by appointment at the winery’s tasting room in the town of Sonoma. Visit www.sojourncellars.com.

2015 Sojourn Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 2,280 cases, $39. A blend of grapes from eight vineyards in the Sonoma Coast AVA, ranging from Occidental to the Petaluma Gap. Key components are Gap’s Crown, Sangiacomo, Rodgers Creek and Walala vineyards. Pinot Noir clones 115, “828,” 667, Pommard and Wädenswil 2A. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Highly aromatic upon opening, with scents of cherry, pomegranate, spice, earthy flora and peat. Highly satisfying from the get-go, with mid weight flavors of cherry, pomegranate, black raspberry and Damsel plum fruits accented with enviable spice. Nicely balanced with oak adding interest in the background and finishing with good generosity. You won’t find a better Sonoma Coast appellation Pinot Noir in the marketplace. Score: 90

2015 Sojourn Rodgers Creek Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.61, 774 cases, $48. Release spring 2017. Since 2008, Sojourn has worked with this vineyard sits high on a ridge in the Petaluma Gap, taking the full brunt of wind and thick fog that define this cool climate zone. Soils are volcanic ash on steep inclines. The foundation of the wine is Pommard clone that underwent 15% whole cluster fermentation, with some clone 777 that was de-stemmed. Barrels from the Bertranges forest was used to offer earthy umami characteristics that enhance the earth and mushroom notes of the Pommard clone in this wine. Open-top fermentation with native yeast, aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Deep aromas of earthy cherry fruit with a hint of stem and sandalwood. Inviting marriage of ripe black cherry and blackberry fruits with savory hints of earth and mushroom. Noticeable, but not intrusive velvety tannins, with a welcome touch of toasty oak, and a finish with emphatic length. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 93

2015 Sojourn Sangiacomo Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.60, 1,020 cases, $59. Release spring 2017. This vineyard is located on Roberts Road at the western base of Sonoma Mountain. The base of this wine is clone 115 with small portions of 777 and Swan clones added in for complexity. Extremely low yields. 100% de-stemmed, open-top fermentation with native yeast, and aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Persistent aromas of black cherry, spice, purple grapes and oak shavings lead to a mid weight treasure of purple berry and black cherry goodness that has impressive depth of flavor and a remarkably plush and luxurious mouthfeel. Not a powerhouse like the Gap’s Crown, but nimble and texturally mesmerizing. Needs a little time to fully integrate the oak. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 94

2015 Sojourn Walala Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.65, 328 cases, $69. Release spring 2017. Inaugural vintage from this vineyard formerly owned by Premier Pacific and now owned by Bill Price. The vineyard sits on a spectacular ridge located 1,200 feet above sea level, just inland from the Pacific Ocean near the coastal town of Annapolis. Clones 113, 115, 777 and “828,” are planted in gravelly loam soils.The vineyard rarely is warmer than 80ºF but the elevation gives the vines ample sunlight and there has not been a problem getting grapes to ripen. 100% de-stemmed, open-top fermentation with native yeast, aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A standout in this lineup of excellent 2015 Pinot Noirs, offering aromas of cherry, strawberry, cranberry and spice with a forest floor accent. Flat-out stunning on the palate with a charge of delicious black cherry fruit that sticks to the mid palate and hangs on through an extraordinarily long and graciously fruity finish. Beautifully composed, with dry well-proportioned tannins and a satiny mouthfeel. This wine breathes new life into the promise of Pinot Noir that winemakers dream about. Score: 96

2015 Sojourn Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., pH 3.47, TA 0.64, 768 cases, $69. Release spring 2017. This vineyard is located on Roberts Road just above the Sangiacomo Vineyard yet the wines it produces are completely different. The base of the wine is clone 115 and 667, with small amounts of “828” that was whole cluster pressed and blended in for an overall total of 10% whole cluster. The 667 grown here produces very small berries and potent concentration so it is used judiciously. The vineyard typically delivers fruit richness, robust tannins and ample acidity and Erich must fight to tone the wine down. In 2015, tiny berries resulted in high levels of concentration. Clones fermented separately and aged separately before blending. Small amount of whole cluster. Open-top fermentation with native yeast and aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Hi-tone aromas of purple berries, spice and earthy flora soar from the glass with swirling. A mid weight plus core of luscious boysenberry and blueberry fruits brings the palate to attention. Very juicy and sappy with slightly astringent tannins and a hint of oak, welcome textural fluidity, and finishing with lasting generosity. This one will stand up to a good steak. Score: 92

2015 Sojourn Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.36, TA 0.67, 591 cases, $38. Release spring 2017. Whole cluster pressed, fermented in French oak barrels with native yeast, complete malolactic fermentation, and aging 11 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled Unfined. · Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. This wine is intended to please those who prefer a ripe, more buttery style of Chardonnay. Aromas of yellow stone fruits and lemon are echoed in the flavors with added tropical and buttery oak notes. Nicely balanced, slightly viscous in texture, with a pleasing fruit intensity and a good cut on the finish. Score: 90

2015 Sojourn Sangiacomo Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.39, TA 0.70, 348 cases, $45. Release spring 2017. The wine is a combination of clone 95 from Sangiacomo Roberts Road Vineyard and Old Wente clone from Sangiacomo Vella Ranch and Green Acres. Whole cluster pressed, fermented slowly in French oak barrels using native yeast, lees stirring the first three months, and aged in French oak barrels, 30% new. Malolactic fermentation allowed to progress as far as it desired. Bottled unfined. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. This wine is styled in a more vibrant, bright style. Aromas of lemon and grapefruit lead to a crisp and clean palate that is citrus driven. Vivid flavors, with oak playing a minor role, and finishing on a spirited note with a juicy, cleansing attitude. Score: 92



The Withers Winery, Santa Rosa

2014 The Withers English Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.6% alc., 347 cases, $48. 8.5-acre vineyard planted in 2005. Located 9.2 miles from the Pacific Ocean in Occidental at 652 feet in Goldridge soil. Clones are Vosne-Romanee, 115 and 667. 35% whole cluster and feral yeast fermentation after a cold soak. Aged in French oak barrels, 15% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Highly ripened fruit aromas combined with notes of mesquite, stem and mocha java. Mid weight flavors of oak-kissed black cherry with an earthy, savory herb undertone. Plush in the mouth, with soft, merged tannins, spice notes, and some finishing goodness. This wine will benefit from more time in bottle to fully harmonize. Score: 89

2014 The Withers Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., 319 cases, $44. Vineyard was planted between 1991 and 1996. Located just southwest of Sebastopol. Clones are Pommard, 115 and 777. 35% whole cluster, feral yeast fermentation after a cold soak. Aged in French oak barrels, 15% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is very shy even with vigorous swirling, revealing only scents of earthy flora and oak. Much better on the palate, with flavors of cranberry, cherry and raspberry in a sleek, mid weight styled wine that has appealing fruit juiciness and vibrancy. Somewhat simple, yet strives to please, with balanced tannins and a very satisfying, red fruit driven finish. Score: 89

2014 The Withers Charles Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., 361 cases, $44. A 14-acre vineyard planted in 2001 (10 acres of Pinot Noir). Located in Boonville adjacent Anderson Creek. Pommard, 115 and 667. Extremely well-drained soils. 35% whole cluster, feral yeast fermentation after a cold soak. Aged in French oak barrels, 20% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Dark fruited on the nose with added scents of spice, bark and nutty oak. More inviting in the mouth, with flavors of black cherry and oak spice backed by muscular tannins that rise up on the finish that has good intensity and length. Needs a little more time in bottle to integrate the tannins. Score: 89


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