Pinot Noirvana in the Willamette Valley

I just returned from a week in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, visiting many wineries and tasting the Pinot Noirs from the 2011 and 2012 vintage. I timed my visit perfectly as it was sunny and warm all week, a freakish weather event in this region that is usually under a dismal rain cloud almost every day this time of year.

The Willamette Valley wine country is truly a retro experience with wineries eager to receive you, offering wines of uncommon excellence by people who are truly friendly, dedicated and unpretentious. I like to say that Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs are genuine wines by genuine people. Beards, plaid flannel shirts and worn denims are de rigueur in the Willamette Valley, the roads to the wineries are often paved with dirt or gravel and surrounded by fields of grain and grass, and sparsely populated with muddy pickup trucks and old tractors. It is quite a contrast in lifestyle to the one in Orange County, California, where I live.

Vintners in Oregon are not into Pinot Noir for the money because the production of high-end Pinot Noir is not a particularly financially rewarding proposition. Yields are purposely kept low, grape growing is labor intensive, and with well over 350 wineries, competition is fierce. Yet the Oregon vintners have persevered for fifty years, driven by a passion that only a pinotphile can appreciate.

In the Willamette Valley there is really no equal to the glorious Napa Valley chateau winery experience (think Darioush, Castello di Amorosa). Even the most modern and largest wineries such as Domaine Serene, Sokol Blosser and Willamette Valley Vineyards do not seem out of place in the Willamette Valley farmland. Most other wineries are in secluded mountainous sites reachable only by winding, rutted roads that challenge your GPS, and the tasting may be conducted in the owner’s kitchen or back patio. Yet, the owner’s reception is warm and welcoming, and the wines are authentic, offering those who spend the effort to seek them out an exceptional wine drinking experience.

Over the past few years, looking to make their wines more accessible, a number of wineries have opened tasting rooms clustered in the towns of Carlton and Newberg. In Carlton, DePonte has opened a contemporary tasting room in the town’s old fire station next door to the excellent Carlton Bakery. Among the other twenty tasting rooms in Carlton, all within walking distance, are Carlton Cellars, Scott Paul, Ken Wright Cellars, Kramer Vineyards, Lachini Vineyards, Noble Pig Vineyard & Winery, Omero Cellars, Scott Paul Wines, Seven of Hearts/Luminous Hills, Siltstone Wines Twelve Wine and WildAire Cellars. Carlton Winemakers Studio is close by. For more tourism information on Carlton, consult www.visitcarlton.com.

There are eleven tasting rooms within walking distance in downtown Newberg including Anam Cara, Artisanal Wine Cellars, Chehalem, Dark Horse Wine Bar (Medici Vineyards, Sineann Winery), Fire + Flood, Fox Farm Vineyards, and Longplay Wine. For more information on Newberg, visit www.newbergdowntown.org.

Why visit the Willamette Valley and seek out the local Pinot Noir? The wines are often considered the closest thing to Burgundy in North America, offering low to modest alcohol, juicy fruit flavors, elegance and vivid acidity. This is not surprising because the Willamette Valley is situated at the same longitude as Burgundy and the growing season has many similarities. There is a dedicated commitment in the Willamette Valley to farming for quality and this is shown by the figures below compiled by the Willamette Valley Wineries Assocation.

Most of the Pinot Noir now being offered from Willamette Valley producers are from the 2011 and 2012 vintages. In 2011, spring and early to mid summer weather was cool and wet. More than 250 minimum temperature records were broke during that period and over 400 precipitation records were exceeded. Bloom in the Willamette Valley was in July! The season turned around in September, which was one of the three warmest Septembers on record in Oregon. The fruit ripened and it was termed a “miracle harvest.” Most grapes were brought in under warm, sunny skies and there were only modest issues with birds and botrytis. Some vineyards were picked as late as the first week of November.

Many have said that the cool 2011 vintage brought Oregon back to its roots, showing a classic Pinot Noir profile of lower alcohol, bright acidity and consuming elegance that made Oregon Pinot Noir famous. The wines have tended to be more austere and lean upon release, and many vintners have likened the vintage to 2007, when the wines were not charming upon release, but developed weight, intensity and nuance after a year or two in bottle. For these reason, some Willamette Valley vintners told me they held back the 2011 vintage wines before release only recently offering them for sale. Some vintners were seriously considering releasing the more forward, flashy 2012 Pinot Noirs and pulling the 2011 Pinot Noirs back for another year of aging. Many winemakers I spoke with preferred the 2011 vintage Pinot Noirs over the 2012 wines because of their more classic Pinot Noir style. Steve Lutz of Lenné Estate told me, “They are not very developed on the nose or palate yet, but every time I sit with them, I see promise and they really capture me after I have had them open for a day or two. The 2007 vintage turned out to be one of my favorites even though the wines started out quite lean, very similar to the 2011 wines.”

There has been considerable hype about the 2012 vintage Pinot Noirs which are fruit-forward, plush and reminiscent of the 2006 vintage in Oregon. Many have declared the 2012 vintage as one of the greats in Oregon history. Bud break was a week later than normal, but weather was normal during bloom with minimal rainfall towards the end of flowering. Reduced berry set led to lower yields than the 2011 vintage. The growing season was warm and dry resulting in very low disease pressure and ripening was ideal until harvest. The only hitch was a week of warm easterly winds in September that pushed grape sugars up.” Many wines are over 14% alcohol and full-bodied with lush fruit flavors reminiscent of California Pinot Noir. That said, it is a consumer’s vintage and most will embrace the early drinking and hedonistic wines. Many of the 2012 Pinot Noirs are being released during the annual Memorial Weekend in the Wine Country sponsored by the Willamette Valley Wineries Association (www.willamettewines.com).

In the following pages of this issue, I will review my week in the Willamette Valley and the many wines I tasted. The consistent high quality of the wines really stood out. No matter whether one prefers the 2011 or 2012 wines, the Pinot Noirs are world class. One thing I have observed about Oregon vintners is that they are a bit shy about tooting their own horn. They have had a long and beneficial association with Burgundy vignerons, and are reticent to claim any superiority of their wines over their French counterparts. The truth is, their best wines rival anything currently produced in Burgundy and the general consistency is something that must make Burgundy green with envy. I believe investing in a premium bottle of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (say $50- $100) is a safer bet than spending an equivalent amount of money on a red Burgundy.

According to Wines & Vines (April 2014), experts at this year’s Oregon Wine Symposium noted that Oregon DtC shipments of Pinot Noir have prospered of late and the latest figures show that Oregon wines account for 3.6% of the domestic wine shipped DtC (54% of which is Pinot Noir) The average bottle price of about $15.40 was higher than California, Washington or imported wines. Interestingly, a survey by Wine Opinions conducted of regular wine drinkers in January 2014, showed that although 44% of Oregon respondents reported buying more Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, the statistics lagged way behind California where 86% of Pinot Noir fans reported drinking California Pinot Noir.

If you get the urge to visit Oregon’s Willamette Valley, you will find it is easy to access. A 45-minute drive from Portland’s International Airport will put you right smack in the center of the Willamette Valley and close to hundreds of desirable Pinot Noir producers. The best time to visit to avoid the incessant rain is July, August and September, which are dry months in the Willamette Valley, but other times in the fall and spring are appealing because of the lack of tourists. The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg is centrally located and offers all the comforts of a world-class hotel in Oregon’s wine country. There are many B&B’s and vacation homes as well, all scattered throughout the Willamette Valley and offering warm hospitality, particularly Le Puy, A Wine Valley Inn, also in Newberg.

To plan your trip, visit the Willamette Valley Wineries Association and secure their brochure, “Guide to Willamette Valley Wineries: Drink Pinot Think Oregon.” Other useful websites include Oregon Wine Board at www.oregonwine.org, Travel Oregon at www.traveloregon.com, and the individual AVA websites such as www.chehalemmountains.org, www.dundeehills.org, www.eolaamityhills.com, www.mcminnvilleava.org, and www.yamhillcarlton.org. On Memorial Day and Thanksgiving weekends, all wineries in the Willamette Valley are open to visitors. May is Oregon Wine Month and wineries are hosting special events during the entire month: visit www.willamettewines.com/oregon-wine-month/. You can contact me at prince@princeofpinot.com and I will assist you in arranging private and attentive visits to many wineries in the Willamette Valley. I can also recommend the best lodging and dining options. If you go, remember that the locals pronounce it Willamette, as in dammit!

Don't be alarmed, this is not the last article in this issue! I have decided to release each issue of The PinotFile in stages much like a blog rather than publish the issue in its glorious entirety once every 3 weeks. Every 2 to 3 days another article will be posted until the entire issue is completed at which time subscribers will receive notice that the entire issue is posted. Those that subscribe to the Twitter or RSS feed will be notified when each article of an issue is published online, usually every 2 to 3 days. This way, the information can be relayed in a more timely manner and requires only a few minutes to peruse. You may download in pdf format each article or the entire issue when it is completed. Please let me know if you like this new staged format at prince@princeofpinot.com.

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International Pinot Noir Celebration: Oregon’s Venerated Pinot Bacchanal

The granddaddy of Pinot Noir festivals continues to attract pinotphiles from around the world to the tiny, bucolic campus of Linfield College in McMinnville, Oregon, for continuing education in Pinot Noir. There is no homework or written tests, and no dreadful lectures at 8:00 A.M. in the morning. Just an abundance of great Pinot Noir paired with the delicious bounty of Oregon, accompanied by plenty of joie de vivre among the luminaries of food and wine who join the celebration.

The first International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) was held in 1987 when a group of Oregon vintners gathered to figure out a way to promote Oregon wine. Since then, the IPNC has brought together 14,000 Pinot Noir lovers, fueled by an unabated love for their go-go juice.

The IPNC has hosted over 200 winemakers from France, and many from New Zealand, Australia, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Canada and South Africa, along with hundreds of Oregon and California winemakers. The emphasis is always on quality (wineries are accepted to participate based on merit) and stylistic diversity, with many new winery faces appearing each year.

This year there are 74 international Pinot Noir winemakers. Wineries from Oregon include Archery Summit, Bergström Wines, Chehalem, Domaine Serene, The Eyrie Vineyards, Scott Paul Wines, Stoller Family Estate, and Westrey Wine Co. Participating California wineries include The Donum Estates, Drew Family Cellars, J Vineyards & Winery, Navarro Vineyards, Patz & Hall, Rhys Vineyards, and Siduri Wines. Among the most well known featured international wineries are Mission Hill Family Estate (British Columbia, Canada), Domaine Ambroise (Prémeaux-Prissey, France), Maison Joseph Drouhin (Beaune, France), Bodega Chacra (Rio Negro, Argentina), Villa Maria Estate (Marlborough, New Zealand), and Wooing Tree Vineyard (Central Otago, New Zealand).

There is no judging of wines at the IPNC for the festival is a pure celebration of Pinot Noir, offering the Pinot Noir enthusiast the opportunity to discover new producers and rub shoulders with established winemakers of repute that they may have only read about.

David Lynch, a James Beard Award winner in journalism and contributing wine editor and author of The Wine Insider’s Guide for Bon Appétit, will keynote the 28th IPNC held this year on July 25-27. He is a hilarious writer and speaker and also a noted San Francisco restauranteur who launched Quince and now owns St. Vincent.

Noted British wine book author and blogger Jamie Goode will moderate the Grand Seminar titled “Doors of Perception.” Not only at the IPNC, but also all over the world, a revolution is underway. Wine drinkers are becoming savvy about their own tastes, and individual preferences now rule our selection of wines. Professor Hildegarde Heymann of University of California at Davis recently reported a study from the Department of Viticulture & Enology involving wine sensory character, quality perception and preferences by consumers, wine-judging panels and wine experts. The results suggested that consumers are better off trusting their own preferences to choose wines they like rather than depending on the advice of so-called experts. The seminar panel is composed of those who think about wine but are not critics and offer a different perspective on the perception of wine. Each panelist will chose a Pinot Noir that speaks to them and include it in the discussion. Seminar guests will arrive at a deeper understanding of how they view wines, how that perception is a reflection of them, and why that matters.

Seminar panelists include Harvard historian of science Steven Shapen will provide a cultural perspective of wine. Wilderness perfumer Hall Newbegin will offer a fresh take on aromas of place. Elaine Brown’s wine cartoons will show how a wine can be brought to life through her imaginative drawings. Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar critic Josh Raynolds will help guest become fluent in the language of wine. Chef Frank Stitt, who writes the wine lists for his trio of Birmingham, Alabama restaurants will introduce food into the picture. Professor Jordi Ballester from the Université de Bourgogne will bring his unique views on sensory evaluation and Loire-born New York sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier of Rouge Tomate will discuss wine and food pairings. Of course, winemakers will be on hand to add their voices to the conversation.

The afternoon educational classes, termed “University of Pinot,” will feature a wide range of options this year. The courses include Sensory Science 200: The Physiology of Taste with Josh Raynolds; Chemistry 201: Dropping Acid with Elaine Brown ( how adding acid to wine affects balance); Climatology 312: The Future of Cool Climate Viticulture with Vajra Stratigos and Greg Brown; Field Study 301: Distilling Terroir with Hall Newbegin; Geography 300: Loire Valley Pinot with Pascaline Lepeltier; Regional Studies 225: The New California Wine with Jon Bonné; Pairing Tea and Cheese with Steven Smith; and Matchmaking 220: Smoke and Mirrors, a food and wine pairing seminar with Ben Dyer and Jordan McKay.

Praised as a showcase for the Northwest’s famed farm-to-table cuisine, the IPNC will host 50 chefs from the northwest’s most revered restaurants. On Friday evening, the IPNC will celebrate the wealth of female talent in the culinary world at the Grand Dames Dinner. Featured chefs are Stephanie Pearl Kimmel of Marche, Kristen D. Murray of Maurice, Holly Smith of Cafe Juanita, and Cathy Whims of Nostrana.

The Saturday night Northwest Salmon Bake is a long-standing tradition at IPNC and has been called “the most entertaining meal at any wine event in the world.” Held in a lantern-lit oak grove on the Linfield College campus, wild Chinook salmon is cooked native northwest style on wood stakes over a wood-fired pit. Featured chefs are Ben Dyer, David Kreifels and Jason Owens of Reverend’s BBQ, Tommy Habetz and Nick Wood of Bunk, and Jason Stoller Smith from Timberline Lodge. Four incredible dessert chefs will top off the evening: Elizabeth Beekley of Two Tarts, David Briggs of Xocolati de David, Jami Curl of Quin, and Jamie Lewis of Blue Raeven Bakery. This dinner is also a no-holds-barred opportunity for pinotphiles to bring their best stuff to share, and as you wonder among the tables, you can taste an incredible array of wines simply by asking.

Noted sommeliers travel from all over the country to pour wine at the elaborate meals. They are formally attired until the last morning of the event when they typically dress up in conjunction with a theme and frolic.

I am getting excited just thinking about this year’s IPNC. I have been attending the celebration almost every year for 20 years, and I can honestly tell you this is the most memorable wine festival I attend. Along with the noted speakers and marvelous chefs, the celebration has a relaxing and festive atmosphere that sets it apart from all over wine events. Whether tasting Grand Cru Burgundy or strolling through Willamette Valley vineyards with the grower who planted them, I find myself happily unwinding in picturesque Oregon wine country.

When Lewis and Clark arrived at the mouth of the Columbia River that divides Oregon and Washington states, the foul weather led their group to call this region Point Dismal. I am sure they would be startled today to see the expansive vineyards that now dot the Oregon landscape and to taste the magnificent Pinot Noirs that are now an Oregon trademark. During July, Oregonians put aside the memories of dismal winter rain to revel in the sun that shines on McMinnville, the IPNC, and the wonderful gift of Pinot Noir.

Tickets for the full weekend event include exclusive access to all seminars, tastings (the 2011 vintage will be poured at the afternoon outdoor walk-around tasting on Friday and the 2012 vintage will be poured by participating wineries on Saturday), tours and activities, as well as all meals over two days and the Sunday Sparkling Brunch Finale. Weekend tickets are $975 per person. Two additional “Post Grad” seminar options will be offered to weekend guests for a separate fee: Raiding the IPNC Cellar with Jamie Goode and Master Class on the Aroma of Color (perceiving color through aroma). Tickets are sold on a first-come, first-served basis and a limited number of tickets remain.

For full details, contact the IPNC at 800-775-IPNC (4762) or visit www.ipnc.org. The IPNC is easily accessible from Portland’s International Airport by a leisurely 45-minute drive. Accommodations in the Willamette Valley are somewhat limited so it is important to make plans to attend now. I would be happy to assist you in any way by contacting me at prince@princeofpinot.com.

An additional event, Passport to Pinot, is held on Sunday afternoon July 27, and is a condensed version of the IPNC. All 74 wineries will pour, 15 local northwest chefs will prepare culinary treats and IPNC will be pouring a selection of aged Pinot Noir from their library. This is also a popular event, held in the beautiful Oak Grove of Linfield College. The Passport to Pinot is a separate event and not included in the full weekend festivities. A separate crowd, mainly Oregonian Pinot Noir fans, attend, but it is open to anyone.

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White Rose Estate: Pursuing a Neo-Classical Objective

The owner and producer at White Rose Estate, Greg Sanders, acquired the 10-acre White Rose Vineyard in the Dundee Hills in the summer of 2000. A few years prior, having found satisfaction as the owner of a moderately large manufacturing company in Los Angeles, Greg began to look for something that offered an emotional connection and found it in wine. Since he was not one to do things a little bit as he put it, he began an exhaustive exploration of Pinot Noir wines, beginning with ones from California, then Burgundy and Oregon. He tasted all the well-known labels and studied the wines in depth to learn what made them special and what allowed them to age. Eventually he arrived at an “aha!” moment and decided the key was an old vine vineyard.

White Rose Vineyard was planted to Pommard clone on its own roots between 1978 and 1982. (There are some new interplantings evident in the photo above) The east-southeast facing vineyard planted in volcanic Jory soils is well-placed with several prominent producers nearby including Archery Summit, Domaine Serene, and Domaine Drouhin Oregon. The vineyard sits at 870 feet elevation. The location is ideal, allowing an extended growing season that lends itself to harvest in late October. This allows for slow phenolic development, balanced sugars and acids, and mature stems. Greg has called his vineyard, “One of the ten best vineyards in the New World.”

An adjacent 4 acres were acquired in 2009, planted to Dijon clone 115 grafted to American rootstock, and named the Guillen Vineyard after Jesus Guillen who has managed the White Rose Vineyard since 2002 and his son, also named Jesus Guillen, who is Greg’s winemaker. Greg also sources fruit from a number of Willamette Valley’s top growers in the Yamhill-Carlton District, Dundee Hills, and Chehalem Mountains appellations.

Greg is largely a self-taught winemaker (he prefers the term “producer”) who made his first wine in 1999 and his first commercial White Rose Vineyard Pinot Noir in 2001. His winemaking production has evolved slowly over the past 13 years tied to the emotional connection he has with wine. Since 2011, he has embarked on a program that he terms “The Neo-Classical Objective.” It is a highly innovative approach for the Willamette Valley and somewhat polarizing in its theory. Greg does not consider it revolutionary since it is soundly based in Old World winemaking techniques. My following words paraphrase Greg’s philosophy.

There are two parts to The Neo-Classical Objective: the “why” and the “how.” The “how” is the more simple part, the “why” more difficult to elucidate but is the impetus, so let me start with that first. Simply put, neoclassical refers to an alternate presentation of wine that elevates “pinotnoirness” above everything else. The word classic refers to the many presentations of pinotnoirness over multiple generations. The first requirement to achieve the neo-classical objective is to have an old vine vineyard. Vines must be old enough to make an age worthy wine. There must have enough phenolic and tannin components to outlast the process of oxidation over time. Tannins cannot be overriding initially as the wine will be austere initially, requiring years to oxidize, often reaching an acceptable level at the time the phenolics (fruit flavors) have dissipated.

The vineyard must be in the correct location, produce quality fruit and be subject to the proper temperature such that the resultant wine can achieve a sense of pinotnoirness. In the classic sense, the grapes should reach a state of crispness and freshness, preferably with raspberry and blackberry flavors. Greg gives the following analogy. If you randomly pick nine cherries and put them in the palm of your hand, three will be dark and concentrated (very ripe), three will be crisp and fresh, and three will be lean and tart. The most desirable cherries for a classic driven Pinot Noir are the crisp and fresh ones. Thus, the timing of the picking decision is critical.

The “neo” term in “neo-classical” incorporates the “how” in The Neo-Classical Objective. Greg’s current approach to handling fruit, skin and seed tannins both in the vineyard and in the winery. Too little tannin and the wine will not last, and too much tannin leads to an edgy wine initially that takes years to resolve the tannins. In past generations, the tannins in wines could be overwhelming initially, something Greg avoids completely. The ultimate objective is to have a wine that is good from day one and that will undergo metamorphosis over time, not becoming necessarily better, but different.

Ideally, Greg wants much of the skin tannins to oxidize away on the vine at the same time as the grape phenolics reach ideal ripeness (tannins are antioxidants, so as they diminish, the available oxygen that results can ripen the phenolics). Invariably, some tannin remains at harvest, but he picks at a time he can manage the astringency. In the cellar, punch downs are avoided to prevent rupture of berries and the release of harsh, bitter seed tannins into solution (gentle punch overs are employed instead). Post-fermentation, the must is pressed off using a laborious old world basket press. In addition, post-fermentation maceration is minimized, again to avoid extracting too much additional tannin. Seed tannins take forever to oxidize and by then the fruit in the wine is gone. The must is gently pressed off using a manual old world basket press that avoids breakage of seeds and stems. The wines are barreled down in French oak for about 15 months, racked once after malolactic fermentation, and then again just before blending. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Greg’s Pinot Noirs produced from old vines in the neo-classical objective mode, are fermented 100% whole cluster. He is not the least bit worried about the stems, only the flavor, phenolic intensity and tannins. In some years, tannin management is not ideal, and some mild herbaceous character may creep in, which may not appeal to all Pinot Noir drinkers. Still, Greg is undaunted, for the nuances, texture and haunting aromas and flavors, and age ability associated with whole cluster fermentation are too advantageous to him.

In summary, to achieve the neo-classical objective of pinotnoirness and present the varietal in a manner such that it has the greatest potential to generate an emotional connection to the wine:

1) Farm an old vine Pinot Noir vineyard planted to quality clones or selections appropriate for the site.
2) The vineyard must be located in the proper microclimate as growing temperatures dictate success.
3) Pick the grapes for crispness and freshness and modest tannic astringency.
4) Gently handle the fruit in the winery with efforts devoted to avoid excessive extraction of tannin, particularly seed tannin.
5) Use 100% whole cluster fermentation.
6) Press the must manually with a basket press.
7) Minimize new oak.

Greg has expended considerable effort in improving the grounds of his property, the tasting room, and the winery so it will connect with people’s emotions and the “White Rose experience.” The tasting room is unique in that it has no windows do distract the visitor from the wines. In the cellar, elaborate mood lighting creates a striking atmosphere, and all the barrels are uniformly sanded for an engaging appearance.

When I recently visited, Greg was at home in Orange County, California (he spends considerable time in Oregon at his winery as well). I was hosted by assistant winemaker Jesus Guillen (right) and manager Gavin Joll shown in front of the winery’s tasting room entrance. The winery and cellar is located underneath the tasting room. We tasted through some of the 2011 and 2012 vintage White Rose Estate Pinot Noirs and I came away with profound respect for Greg’s accomplishments.

I found the wines displayed haunting floral and exotic spice aromas and flavors associated with 100% whole cluster ferments, with no herbaceous character evident in any of the wines. For me, and many other wine enthusiasts, whole cluster aromatics are like “catnip for humans.” The wines also had structure yet elegance, and modest, well-integrated tannins. All the wines could be enjoyed now. I would encourage readers to experience these wines for their unique qualities. A number of Oregon wineries are experimenting with some whole cluster inclusion in the manner of 10% to 30%, with an occasional 100% whole cluster bottling. Other than Cristom Vineyards and Thomas Geerie Wines, there is no other Oregon winery that I know of other than White Rose Estate that is fully committed to whole cluster vinification.

Greg’s comments on the 2012 vintage indicated excitement. Greg does not recall a vintage that has shown as much potential. “The 2012 vintage was reminiscent of 2002 and 2008. It was warmer than average and certainly warmer than the cooler vintages of 2007, 2010 and 2011, but cooler than the really warm vintages of 2003, 2006 and 2009. While the wines are dense and rich on the palate, they are extremely well balanced with sufficient acidity. Unlike the warmest vintages where the fruit takes on an over ripe, stewed character, the wines from 2012 consistently retain a fresh, vibrant sense of fruit. Retaining this freshness is critically important to our winemaking goals at White Rose. It certainly appears that 2012 will live up to the hype.”

Located at 6250 NE Hilltop Lane in Dayton, the tasting room is open daily from 11 to 5 P.M.. Tours are available by appointment. The wines are sold through a mailing list and on the website: www.whiteroseestate.com. The Explorer’s Club offers unique bottlings. In 2012, wines were offered from different elevations. In 2013, different clonal bottlings from the same vineyard will be offered. The Neo- Classical Club includes wines that are collectable and age worthy.

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The Potter’s Vineyard

Laura Volkman originally planted this 3.2-acre vineyard in 2001 in Newberg, Oregon, and released her first wines in 2004. Laura quickly developed a loyal following over the years for her wines, but an unfortunate illness forced her to sell her property just before harvest in 2012. The new owners, Sandy and Bill Sanchez, are proud to carry on her legacy of producing premium Estate Pinot Noir.

The new owners initially learned about the vineyard and wines Laura created by working with Laura during the 2012 vintage harvest and winemaking process. They changed the label to “The Potter’s Vineyard” because the vineyard property is also home to a pottery studio where Sandy and Bill craft hand made clay art. The new label invokes the memory of the Laura Volkman label. The tasting room also features a Clay Art Gallery, featuring the work of local artists including Patrick Noe, who created the ‘Vineyard Worker’ image on the new wine label.

Sandy is a learning specialist assistant at a local elementary school and Bill is a Ph.D. scientist with Diamond V, a yeast culture manufacturing company. The couple are new to wine growing and winemaking but very humble about their opportunity.

The Potter’s Vineyard is located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, and is planted to Dijon 777, 114, 115 and 667, and Pommard clones of Pinot Noir in Jory and Laurelwood soils.

The first Potter’s Vineyard Pinot Noirs were released in May 2014, and are reviewed here. Tasting is available by appointment and the traditional Willamette Valley weekend open houses Thanksgiving and Memorial Day weekends. The website is www.pottersvineyard.com.

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Ghost Hill Cellars

The legend of Ghost Hill dates to the early 1860s when Oregon was consumed by a gold rush. An old military trail that stretched from southern Oregon to Portland ran through what is now the Bayliss family farm. A miner was traveling the trail to Portland with a stash of gold and camped one night at what is now known as Ghost Hill. During the night, thieves killed the miner and stole his gold. The legend says that the miner’s ghost still wanders the hill looking for his stolen gold.

The Ghost Hill Cellars Bayliss-Bower Vineyard is part of the family’s 234-acre property on Savannah Ridge in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The Bayliss family have been stewards of the land for more than a century. Initially, the farm was a dairy operation. When Samuel D. and Barbara Bayliss bought the farm in the 1930s from Samuel's father who came to the land in 1906 with his brother, they raised wheat, hay, clover, peas, sheep, and later beef cattle. Today, the vineyard is the only farm crop. Mike and Drenda Bayliss own the farm. Their children, Mike Bayliss, Jr., and daughter Bernadette Bower along with her husband Cameron Bower own the Ghost Hill Cellars brand and vineyard together.

The initial planting was in 1999, and today 15 acres of Pommard, Wädenswil, and Dijon 777, 114, and 115 are farmed. The vineyard has been managed by Buddy Beck of Advanced Vineyard Systems, Inc., since the beginning and is LIVE and Salmon-Safe certified. Some fruit is sold to other wineries including Lange and Elk Cove. The Ghost Hill Cellars wines, first released from the 2006 vintage, are 100% estate grown.

The winemaker is Rebecca Pittock-Shouldis who had her first exposure to wine as an exchange student with a family living near Bordeaux, France. The host father was a wine collector and Rebecca was able to drink many older vintages of French wine, quickly falling in love with “tasting history.” She did not pursue a career in wine initially, instead she became a maintenance technician on F-15 fighter aircraft for the Oregon Air National Guard. In 2005, she left that job (although she remained a member of the Air National Guard) to enter the wine business. She did not have a formal winemaking education, but had a knack for crafting wine, and learned quickly. In 2008, she made her first wine for Ghost Hill Cellars, and the wines have become quite popular. The winery was chosen to participate in the 2012 International Pinot Noir Celebration, and Rebecca was panelist at the “Burgundy & Oregon: Parallels in Latitudes” Seminar at this year’s World of Pinot Noir.

I met Rebecca, Drenda Bayliss and Mike Bayliss at the intimate tasting room adjacent the original farmhouse on the property. Mike Bayliss and son Mike, Jr., built the tasting room which has a sliding barn door and reclaimed windows from the Trappist Abbey Church in Carlton. The structure is reminiscent of a prospector’s shack. From the weekend after Memorial Day through Labor Day, the tasting room is open Saturday and Sunday, and year-round by appointment. Visit www.ghosthillcellars.com for information and to purchase wine.

Shown below are (right to left) Rebecca Pittock-Shouldis, Drenda Bayliss, and Mike Bayliss.

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Lenné Estate

During my recent visit with Steve Lutz, the owner, manager and vineyardist behind Lenné Estate in the Yamhill- Carlton AVA, we tasted through the lineup of 2012 vintage Pinot Noirs side-by-side. Established in 2002, the Lenné Estate’s 20.9-acre vineyard is ideally situated among many famous neighboring estates such as WillaKenzie Estate, Shea Wine Cellars & Vineyard, Solena (recently acquired by Kendall-Jackson), and Saffron-Fields Vineyard.

The vineyard is entirely Pinot Noir, planted to clones 115, Pommard, 114 and 777 in 2001, additional Pommard in 2003 and additional 114 and 777 in 2004. Soils are primarily Peavine with some Willakenzie. Elevation is 375-575 feet with primarily a south facing aspect.

Steve said the 2012 vintage was very moderate and similar to 2008, except for a warm easterly wind that developed over five days in September which pushed the vintage closer to 2006. He noted, “The resulting pH’s were nudged higher, yet retained enough acidity to hold the wines together, and the wines retained enough structure to retain interest and to age nicely over the mid-term.” The wines are forward and highly approachable, so much so that Steve plans to release them and pull the 2011 vintage Pinot Noirs back into storage for another 6 months. He believes cool vintages like 2011 make the best wines in Oregon, but they take longer to come around. He said, “I love the 2011s and by November they will be delicious. Six months ago my 2011 wines were barely drinkable.”

The 2012 vintage was characterized by small clusters and berries and little disease pressure allowing the fruit to be harvested very clean. Rounding up enough pickers at harvest was the biggest challenge.

The 2012 wines required no special manipulation. After a 5-day cold soak, the must was inoculated, punched down a couple times a day, and pressed without any extended maceration. Steve is not a believer in extended barrel aging so the wines were kept in barrel for 11 months and then bottled unfiltered.

The wines are vinified by winemaker David O’Reilly of Owen Roe fame. David recently broke up with his partner and no longer makes wine at the St. Paul winemaking facility the partners used for years. Steve is planning to build a custom crush facility on the Lenné Estate property where the wines of Lenné Estate can be produced side-by-side with O’Reilly’s Owen Roe wines along with wines of other producers. Last year an initial offering to raise money for the new facility brought in 50% of the needed funds. Investors received 4% to 5.5% on their loan and a Lenné wine component allocation. Inquire with Steve if you have interest in becoming a lender/investor. Steve is also currently expanding his tasting room to include a kitchen, making the hospitality facility more amendable to hosting events.

All the 2012 wines tasted were elegant and eager to please with modest tannins and generous fruit-forward flavors.

The 2012 Pinot Noirs were released May 31. The tasting room is open weekends from 12-5 and other times by appointment. You are also welcome to come in anytime the gate is open. Visit the website at www.leneestate.com.

Interestingly, Steve held back 110 cases of the 2008 vintage and will release them in September 2014. These are highly complex wines that seem to be capable of aging forever. A special 2008 Pinot Noir consisting of a selection of some of the best barrels from the 2008 vintage is offered currently for $55. Labeled the Lenné Wetlands Conservancy Pinot Noir, nearly half of the proceeds from the sale of each bottle are donated to Wetlands Conservancy. Contact Steve directly to order: steve@leneestate.com.

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Anne Amie Vineyards

I met recently with Director of Winemaking Thomas Houseman at Annie Amie Vineyards located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA on Mineral Springs Road. Thomas graduated from the enology and viticulture program at University of California at Fresno, and learned his winemaking working at Husch Vineyards in the Anderson Valley, Bleinheim Winery and Bell Hill Winery in New Zealand, and Ponzi Vineyards in the Willamette Valley. Along with Director of Viticulture, Jason Tosch, who also came from Ponzi Vineyards, the pair have transformed Annie Amie Vineyards into a world-class winery.

90% to 95% of the Anne Amie wines are now produced from estate fruit. All estate vineyards are certified LIVE (Low Input Viticulture & Enology) and Salmon Safe. The estate vineyards are located in the rolling hills adjacent the winery (Anne Amie Estate) and on the steep hillsides of the Chehalem Mountains (Twelve Oaks Estate). Most of the Pinot Noir is now sourced from the Twelve Oaks Vineyard situated at 660 to 820 feet elevation in the Chehalem Mountains which is planted to multiple clones on about 36 acres.

All Pinot Noirs are fermented with native yeasts. In the 2011 Pinot Noirs reviewed here, about 15% to 20% whole cluster was used because harvest was late and the stems were mature. All wines are unfined and unfiltered and bottled under screwcap.

Thomas is one of the three winemakers participating in “The Cube Project” that began with the 2010 vintage. Thomas, Andrew Brooks of Bouchaine Vineyards in Napa Carneros, and Leslie Mead Renaud of Lincourt Vineyards in Santa Barbara County devised an experiment that compared winemaker technique with terroir.

The three wineries picked 6 tons of Pommard clone Pinot Noir from their own vineyard in the 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages. They divided the grapes into thirds, with each of the three winemakers processing 2 tons (about 120 cases) of Pinot Noir grapes. Each winemaker was responsible for picking decisions at their own winery and the grapes were picked on the same day so each of the three wines started on equal footing. Each winemaker crafted their wines from the two other vineyards in the same fashion as the wine from their own vineyard. The Cube Project was first presented at the World of Pinot Noir in 2012: www.princeofpinot.com/ article/1195/. For more information also visit www.anneamie.com/cube-project. Once the project is completed, you will be able to buy all 9 wines and decide for yourself whether terroir or winemaking technique are most obvious. The 2010 vintage wines are now available on the Anne Amie website.

I tasted the three 2011 wines made by Thomas as part of The Cube Project. They were tasted blind the day the bottles were opened and re-tasted the following day. All wines were 100% de-stemmed and unfiltered, with varying oak treatment.

The wines clearly showed their terroir and it was easiest to pick out the Oregon wine. Without tasting the other winemaker’s wines, I can’t comment on the effect of winemaking on the finished wines. Stay tuned as the project progresses.

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Carabella Vineyard

While living in Denver, Colorado, Mike Hallock was smitten with Oregon Pinot Noir on a steelhead salmon fishing trip. As a geologist, he spent twelve years mapping vineyard soils until he found his ideal site for Pinot Noir in 1995 at the McDonald farm on Parrett Mountain in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. He pursued winemaking and viticulture classes at University of California at Davis, worked along side winemaker Kathy Joseph of Fiddlehead Winery who made wine in Oregon for several years, planted 49 acres in 1996 and celebrated his first harvest and wines in 1998. It was probably the largest vineyard planting at one time in the Chehalem Mountains. The first four years, he commuted from Denver to the Willamette Valley to manage the vineyard and craft the Carabella wines, finally moving out to Oregon for good in 2002.

On my recent visit, I walked the entire Carabella Vineyard with Mike. The site is ideal for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, located at an altitude of 500 to 600 feet and consisting of gravelly volcanic soils. The original 1996 planting was Pinot Noir clones 115, 114, 113 and Pommard and Wädenswil. After ten years of learning about the site, he planted 667, 777 and a little bit more of 115 in 2007. Chardonnay plantings are Dijon clone 76, and there are two different clonal blocks of Pinot Gris. Total planted acreage is now 59 acres.

About half the fruit from the vineyard has been sold to premium Willamette Valley producers including Bergström (Chardonnay), Winderlea, Union Wine Co. and Beaux Freres. The vineyard is Certified Sustainable and Mike uses no herbicides or chemical pesticides. The vines are dry farmed.

Along with his spouse, Cara, the couple have been gradually converting the cover crop in the vineyard to native fescue and other native flora, hoping to attract beneficial insects that live in the nearby oak Savannah.

Mike’s plantings of clone 113 are unusual because this Dijon clone has been rarely established in California and Oregon in volcanic soils. ENTAV-INRA Clone 113 is from Morey St. Denis. It produces average to high sugar levels, good quality and a sufficient but sometimes irregular yield. Possibly the most elegant of the Pinot Noir clones, it is early ripening with charming aromatics and displays a classic blend of plum, cherry and raspberry fruits. This clone has prospered at Carabella Vineyard and a Dijon 113 bottling is offered, a true rarity in the Pinot Noir world.

There is an interesting story behind one particular planting in the Carabella Vineyard known as the Mistake Block. In 1998, while planted Dijon 113 vines, it was discovered after the vines were planted that some vines were mislabeled. As a result, there are 13 rows of Pommard clone (3/4 acre) and these vines have turned out to produce extraordinary wine. The grapes were blended into other Carabella wines until 2008 when a “Mistake Block” wine was released. Since then the wine has been produced in only select years.

Carabella wines are produced exclusively from estate fruit. The wines are sold on the website at www.carabellawine.com and through a Bedrock Wine Club. There is some distribution to other states including New York, Illinois and Florida. A second, value-priced label ($20), Plowbuster, is sourced from several AVAs and has an Oregon AVA designation. It offers excellent drinking and is more widely distributed. Total production is 4,000-6,000 cases annually. The winery does not have a tasting room. I have favorably reviewed a number of Carabella and Plowbuster wines in the past.

I tasted some Carabella wines in the vineyard and in the Hallock’s home. My impressions follow.

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J. Wrigley Vineyard

John Wrigley developed an interest in winemaking in 1984 when he graduated from college. Home beer brewing was popular at the time and stores that stocked beer brewing kits also had wine making kits. A friend had made a plum wine at home, and although John did not like the wine, he was intrigued by the process. He bought a gallon of concentrated grape juice and made a wine by a recipe. The first day he tried it, it was good, but it quickly oxidized over the ensuing two days. He realized he needed to learn more and began reading books on winemaking to feed his curiosity. Before long he read everything he could get his hands on including material from UC Davis.

As his home winemaking evolved, he wanted to start making wine commercially but did not want the uncertainty of sourcing grapes. He knew he needed the vineyard component. On a fishing trip in Oregon, he met winemaker Andrew Rich and had an Oregon Pinot Noir epiphany. Until that time, he had been a “California Cabernet guy.” He began exploring every AVA in the Willamette Valley and tasted wines from each region.

John found that he preferred the bolder style of Pinot Noir wines from the McMinnville AVA, and bought 200 acres of prime vineyard land in Sheridan in the McMinnville AVA in 2006. The property has about 80 acres suitable for planting wine grapes. The rest of the property is planted to Douglas fir timber and too steep to farm without the use of specialized equipment. The site is located 12 miles southwest of the town of McMinnville at 210 to 740 feet elevation. The majority of the property is desirable east and south facing slopes and contains a complex mixture of volcanic and sedimentary soils.

Because of the western and elevated location of the site, the vineyard benefits from the winds arriving through the Van Duzer Corridor, so there is little mildew pressure. The property is definitely in a very cool location, so cool that some told John he couldn’t successfully grow wine grapes there. He knew, however, that Coleman Vineyard and Hyland Vineyard were on nearby ridges, and the healthy growth of poison oak and mint on the property was a sign that wine grapes could be successfully farmed.

John has an incredible knowledge of Oregon soils which he shared with me as we drove around the property. He loves to show off the old quarry on the property where 35 million years of Yamhill County in the making can be viewed through the cut away of the mountain. It is a rare opportunity and a breathtaking experience. I won’t go into detail here, but if you visit, and you should, he would be happy to give you a tour. (The picture doesn’t do it justice!)

In 2008, the first Pinot Noir (Pommard, 115 and 777), Riesling and Pinot Gris vines were planted. Since that year the vineyard has been dry farmed, with the aim of seeking vintage variation in the wines. A small amount of clone “828” was planted subsequently bringing the total vineyard size to 10 acres. The first estate Pinot Noir was released from the 2011 vintage.

I tasted the J. Wrigley Vineyard wines in the charming tasting room situated on the summit of the property with panoramic views of the Willamette Valley and Mt. Hood in the distance. John says he makes wine to please himself and hopes that others find it enjoyable as well. He avoids commercial additives and extended maceration. The wines are aged sur lie in barrel with periodic stirring at the time of topping. Over time, his palate have evolved and he prefers more elegant and polished wines with proper balance. This style was evident in the wines I tasted.

J. Wrigley Vineyard is a small family operation. John manages the vineyard and crafts the wines, while still working as a catastrophic claims insurance adjustor. Currently, total production is about 500 cases. His spouse, Jody, sells the wines. The wines are sold on the website at www.wrigleywines.com and through a wine club. Visitors are welcome by appointment. An informative blog is presented on the website.

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Guillen Family Wines

Through the years I have run across many Mexican immigrants that have achieved success as winegrowers, winemakers and winery owners in California. The story of Jesus Guillen is the first such story I have met with in the Willamette Valley.

Jesus Guillen, Sr., came to Oregon in 2000 from Chihuahua, Mexico, encouraged by a Mexican immigrant working as a winegrower. He ended up at White Rose Estate as the vineyard manager. His son, also named Jesus, graduated from the University of Chihuahua in 2001 with a degree in computer systems engineering. He came to Oregon on a visitor’s visa, immediately fell in love with Oregon, and decided to stay. In 2002, his mother, brother and sister immigrated to Oregon. Jesus studied English at the local community college, read extensively about viticulture and winemaking, and developed a palate for the local wines. His epiphany came from two wines: the 1999 Archery Summit Arcus Summit Pinot Noir and the 1999 Adelsheim Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir.

Jesus became a vineyard worker for Patricia Green in 2002. He also worked with his father, Jesus, Sr., at Laurel Ridge Winery where Jesus, Sr., was helping Greg Sanders of White Rose Estate make his wines. When the winery was completed at White Rose Estate, Jesus started working in the new winery’s cellar. At the time, Mark Vlossak of St. Innocent was the consulting winemaker, and Jesus acquired much of his winemaking skills from him. He also received some mentoring from Gary Andrus. Because of his considerable talent, Jesus was promoted to winemaker by 2008 and now crafts the White Rose Estate wines with producer and owner Greg Sanders.

Jesus launched his own small label in 2009 with the 2007 vintage, sourcing fruit from Vista Hills Vineyard which is near White Rose Estate in the Dundee Hills. The wines are vinified in a similar fashion to those of White Rose Estate with 100% whole cluster (since 2010) and native yeast fermentations, basket pressed, and aging in neutral French oak (Dreamcatcher and Damian), or 100% new French oak (Adrian). Damian and Adrian are aged sur lie. Adrian is built for ultimate complexity and is aged in 100% new French oak. It is bottled when Jesus feels the oak is well integrated. The Guillen Family Pinot Noirs tend to be slightly more full-bodied and extracted than the White Rose Estate Pinot Noirs so they have their own character. Total production of 3 Guillen Family wines is only about 80 cases.

Guillen Family Wines are produced in such small quantities they quickly sell out so I hesitate to rave about them. I was honored that he was willing to open the following eight wines for me. The wines are sold through a mailing list at www.guillenfamily.com. Jesus has also made some wine for Vista Hills Vineyard including the 2011 Vista Hills Vineyard Rollins which is crafted from the oldest block in the vineyard and vinified 100% whole cluster. Jesus is pictured below (left) at White Rose Estate with White Rose Estate manager Gavin Joll.

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Beckham Estate

Andrew and Annedria Beckham have a charming vineyard property in Sherwood, Oregon, in the Chehalem Mountains, where they grow grapes for their wines that reflect the site and individuality of the vintage. Their tasting room, constructed by Andrew, is inviting and the hosts are very warm people. Both Andrew and Annedria are energetic people with him managing the vineyard and crafting the wine, and she, with three children in tow, managing sales and marketing. This is a family winery in the truest sense of the word.

Andrew never set out to grow wine grapes or become a winemaker. The property, surrounded by heavily forested Chehalem Mountain woods on the flank of Parrett Mountain, was originally acquired by the Beckhams to allow Andrew, a ceramist and ceramics teacher, to have a large clay workshop for his craft. A neighbor across the street had a small vineyard and drew Andrew into the romance of winegrowing. The Beckhams soon had a 6.5-acre vineyard of their own adjacent their home. The south, southwest and southeast facing vineyard was planted to Pommard, Wädenswil, 115 and 777 Pinot Noir clones at an elevation of 412-568 feet in volcanic and Loess soils. Andrew learned about viticulture from neighbors and volunteering to work in other local vineyards. The harvests from the first two vintages in 2007 and 2008 were sold.

Andrew’s winemaking mentors were Mike Halleck of Carabella Vineyard and Jim Sanders of Aubichon who made their wines at Union Wine Co. in Tualatin. The first Beckham Estate Pinot Noir was produced in 2009.

Andrew is one of several winemakers in California and Oregon who are experimenting with fermenting and aging wine in clay vessels or terracotta amphoras. Annedria had seen an article in a magazine several years ago about vinification in amphoras and this not only piqued Andrew’s interest, but seemed a perfect fit given his accomplished background as a ceramist. A recent article in Wines & Vines, “Winemakers Give Clay a Close Look,” May 2014, featured Andrew as well as other proponents of amphora vinification. Fermenting and aging wine in amphoras is exposing the wine to earth (clay), and not unexpectedly, gives wines a distinct mouthfeel. Andrew’s amphoras are still in the experimental stage, but he is quite enthusiastic about the future prospects. Andrew plans a second label, A.D. Beckham for wines vinified in amphoras and the first release will be a Pinot Gris in July 2014.

In 2013, Beckham Estate Olivia’s Rosé of Pinot Noir was released (<70 cases, $18) and is nearly sold out. A Beckham Estate Pinot Noir Blanc, a saignée of Pinot Noir, was also released (<70 cases, $22).

In 2011 and 2012, three Pinot Noirs were produced from estate fruit: Sophia’s, Estate and Dow’s. The wines are reasonably priced considering the high quality. Visit the website to buy wines at www.beckhamestatevineyard.com., or better yet, visit on Saturdays 11:00-5:00 and by appointment for an intimate tasting experience.

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De Ponte Cellars

I did not visit De Ponte (“Duh Pawnt”) Cellars on my recent trip to the Willamette Valley, but I tasted several recent releases at home and was so impressed I wanted to highlight the winery. Being close to more famous neighbors like Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Archery Summit and Domaine Serene, this winery flies a little bit under the radar. I have visited the vineyard and winery in the past as part of the International Pinot Noir Celebration.

Scott and Rae Baldwin acquired their Dundee Hills property in 1999 and started this small family winery in 2001, naming the winery after Baldwin’s grandfather, Manuel de Ponte, who grew grapes and made wine in California’s San Joaquin Valley. The Baldwins are immigrants from California where they owned a walnut orchard in the Central Valley and lived in Carmel Valley.

The De Ponte estate vineyard is planted to 20 acres of Dijon clone Pinot Noir and 2 acres of Melon de Bourgogne. The Melon grape has sparse plantings in the United States and was a mistake. The original growers thought they were planting Pinot Blanc grapes but it turned out to be Melon de Bourgogne, identical to the grape used in the Muscadet from the Loire Valley of France. The wine has turned out to be very popular.

In 2007, the Baldwins bought 80 acres with an existing 6-acre Pinot Noir (667 and 777) vineyard on the western edge of the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Named Lonesome Rock Ranch, another 2 acres of Pinot Noir were planted in 2010. This site is exposed to more weather extremes than the De Ponte Vineyard. The soils are rich, red volcanic Jory in type. The vineyard does not lie within the Yamhill-Carlton AVA boundaries, situated two miles to the west of the Yamhill-Carlton AVA border line and one of only three other vineyards within the Willamette Valley that are closer to the Pacific Ocean. A herd of steers roam on the property, graze on grass, and are fed pomace left over from De Ponte’s winemaking process. The beef is sold under the Lonesome Rock Cattle Company brand (wine club members only).

The talented winemaker is Parisian-born Isabelle Dutarte who studied at the University of Bourgogne and has made wine professionally for well over 30 years. Her impressive resume includes winemaking stints like Maison Joseph Drouhin before she moved to Oregon in 1993 to assist the Drouhin family with Domaine Drouhin Oregon. Her mentor at Maison Joseph Drouhin was Laurence Jobard, the head winemaker with whom she worked for ten years. She became the head winemaker at De Ponte Cellars in 2001, moving permanently to the Yamhill Valley five years later. Shortly after, she also founded her own label, 1789 wines.

The winery has two tasting rooms. The original winery tasting room is located in the heart of the Dundee Hills at 17545 Archery Summit Road and is open daily. The newest tasting room is located in historic Carlton just off Main Street and is housed in an old firehouse. Known as the Lonesome Rock Firehouse, it is open for tasting Friday through Sunday 12:00-5:00. The website is www.depontecellars.com.

The 3-bedroom De Ponte Cellars Vineyard Retreat, located on the property with views of the Willamette Valley and Mount Hood is available for rent. A concierge can be arranged and a chef provided to prepare meals. The 2,000 bottle De Ponte library wine and international wine list is available to guests.

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Youngberg Hill Vineyards & Inn

Youngberg Hill Vineyards & Inn consists of 21 acres of vineyards on a 50-acre hilltop property with panoramic views of the Willamette Valley. Located in the McMinnville AVA, the first 12 acres of Pinot Noir were planted in 1989 on two distinct blocks of southeast facing slopes. The vines are own rooted Pommard and Wädenswil clones. 4 additional acres of clone 777 was planted on 101-14 rootstock in 2008. There are also 5 acres of Pinot Gris planted in 2006.

The 6.6-acre Natasha Block is located at about 600-675 feet elevation on Willakenzie soil (sedimentary). The 4.5-acre Jordan Block is higher at 750-800 feet and steeper, and is planted on Steiwer (volcanic) soil. This block is benefits more from coastal breezes, is cooler, and harvested later. The Natasha and Jordan Blocks were planted in 1989 and already in production when the Bailey family bought the property. The Camelot Block, planted in 2008 by the Bailey family, is dedicated to Dijon clone 777. It is located between the Natasha and Jordan Blocks and is a blend of the two soils.

The Youngberg Hill Vineyard is located in the western reaches of the McMinnville AVA, only 25 miles inland from the Pacific Coast as the crow flies. The weather is most heavily influenced by the maritime influence from the Van Duzer Corridor. The vineyard receives more precipitation than most of the Willamette Valley, more sunny days, and cooler temperatures both day and night. Cool, coastal winds gently blow in the late afternoon and early evening reducing disease pressure.

The vineyard is farmed organically and is LIVE and Salmon Safe certified, with some biodynamic practices in place. The vines are not irrigated.

The Bailey family acquired Youngberg Hill in 2003 and renovated and upgraded the entire estate, with improved vineyard management and winemaking, expansion of the Inn, a new tasting room in the inn, and markedly improved hospitality. The house features 8 modernized guest rooms.

Proprietor Wayne Bailey was a mechanical engineer who initially pursued a career in the food and beverage industry as a consultant. He became enamored with wine and turned his career eventually to the wine industry. He went to France on a short term consulting job for a domaine in Burgundy that wanted to export wine to the United States. He fell in love with Pinot Noir, became friends with many of the local vignerons, decided to stay in Burgundy, and worked two vintages.

After his stint in Burgundy, he knew he wanted to grow Pinot Noir in a cool climate and Oregon was a natural choice. He bought Youngberg Hill and beginning in 2003 worked with the late winemaker Jimi Brooks who was the winemaker and vineyard manager at nearby Maysara Vineyards at the time. Brooks helped Bailey institute organic and later biodynamic farming at Youngberg Hill Vineyard.

The wines are crafted in a shared facility by Youngberg Hill owner and winemaker Wayne Bailey, along with noted winemaker Robert Brittan acting as the consulting winemaker. Grapes are 100% de-stemmed, undergo a 3 to 5-day cold soak, are fermented with natural and proprietary yeasts, and aged typically 14-16 months in 28-30% new French oak barrels.

The informative website at www.youngberghill.com offers the wines for sale. The tasting room in the inn is open 10:00-4:00 daily. The best idea is to check into the Inn for a few days and taste the authentic wines while you enjoy the ambiance. The Bailey family is posed below.

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Van Duzer Vineyards

Van Duzer Vineyards is named after the Van Duzer Corridor, the only break in the north-south Oregon Coast Mountain Range that allows gentle west winds to enter the Willamette Valley. The official name is “Henry B. Van Duzer Forest State Scenic Corridor.” This geographic feature is responsible for the summer cooling that makes the Willamette Valley a perfect haven for Pinot Noir.

Cool Pacific Ocean air follows this route late each day and temperatures dependably drop late each afternoon. This air exchange brings a significant decrease in temperature as it moves over the Van Duzer Vineyards and then splits north towards Portland and south towards Eugene, cooling off the 60-mile wide and 100-mile long Willamette Valley for the night. The influence of the Van Duzer Corridor is most felt in the McMinnville and Eola- Amity Hills appellations as well as the vineyards in the Dallas area of the Willamette Valley where Van Duzer is located.

Van Duzer Vineyards is 60 miles south of Portland and west of the Eola Hills and Salem in the eastern mouth of the Van Duzer Corridor three miles off Highway 99W. Because of this location, summer temperatures in the vineyard drop sooner in the afternoon than in the vineyards to the north or south by 13 degrees, resulting in extended hang time. The winery appropriately chose Zephyra, the gentle west wind goddess of Greek mythology, to grace its label.

Carl Thoma and his wife Marilynn bought the run-down Van Duzer Vineyards property in 1998, and like so many Oregon wineries before, Van Duzer benefited from an enthusiastic outside investor. Vineyard plantings and management were upgraded and new plantings added. Today, the estate vineyards total 82 acres and include Pommard, Wädenswil, 113, 115, 667 and 777 Pinot Noir clones. Two clones of Pinot Gris are also planted. The estate vineyards are certified LIVE and Salmon Safe. Refer to the vineyard map below for a detailed layout.

Van Duzer produces an estate Pinot Noir and a number of limited production Clone and Block Designates as well as an outstanding Rosé of Pinot Noir and a Pinot Gris. For years all Van Duzer wines were estate grown but recently grapes have been sourced from other appellations for singular bottlings.

The winemaker is Florent-Pierre “Flo” Merlier a native of Burgundy who obtained a degree in physics and chemistry, but was captivated by winemaking while assisting a good friend run a 40-acre family domaine in Burgundy. He decided to pursue winemaking and met his wife, Krista, an Oregonian, while interning at the same winery in Burgundy. Florent then obtained his Diploma of Viticulture from the University of Dijon before relocating to Oregon in 2009.

Winemaking can be complicated at Van Duzer because the fruit from each vineyard is handled separately and even grapes harvested within the same block are processed individually if picked on different days. Florent may have to deal with upwards of 50 lots of wine. Various yeast cultures are used to enhance aroma, flavor, texture, acid and tannin levels. A mix of barrels is used, typically tight-grained French oak barrels from the Allier and Vosges forests. Aging of Pinot Noir is carried out typically for 10 months in about 35% new barrels. The 2012 Pinot Noirs have not been released because Florent prefers to age them for a year in bottle before release.

A unique, insulated concrete tilt-up structured 20,000-case winery and hospitality center was completed in time for the 2006 harvest.

The Van Duzer Hospitality Center at 11975 Smithfield Rd in Dallas is open for wine tasting daily from 11:00 to 5:00. Visit the website at www.vanduzer.com for the 20 mile drive south of McMinnville.

The 2013 Van Duzer Pinot Noir Rosé was one of the best Rosés I have tasted recently. Join Van Duzer Vineyards and 25 other Willamette Valley wineries for a festival in honor of Rosé at Patton Valley Vineyard in Gaston, Oregon. Food prepared by Portland’s Crown Paella and Scoop, music of two live bands, and a sampling of the finest pinks the Willamette Valley has to offer. Saturday, July 12, 12:00-4:00. For tickets, visit www.pattonvalley.com.

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Seven of Hearts/Luminous Hills

Byron and Dana Dooley own Luminous Hills Vineyard, a unique 12-acre, high elevation site in the southwestern corner of the Yamhill-Carlton District. The vineyard contains both sedimentary (65%) and Jory volcanic soils (35%), with clones planted to match the different soil types. There are six different blocks containing Dijon clones 115, 667, 777 and Pommard clone. The vineyard is sustainably farm, certified LIVE and Salmon Safe, and non-irrigated.

When I recently visited the vineyard on a sunny afternoon, Byron told me that his property was part of 30 acres owned from 1978 to 1985 by Steve Jobs, the co-founder of Apple. Coincidently, both Dooleys attended the same high school as Jobs, Homestead High School in Sunnyvale, California.

The Luminous Hills Vineyard is beautifully manicured and breathtakingly beautiful. I would even go so far to say it is the most stunning Pinot Noir vineyard I have ever seen. As I walked the vineyard with Byron, I was taken by the many vistas on the undulating property and the serenity of the site. The red thistle grown in alternate rows as a cover crop was in bloom, creating a palate of color between the vines. Even Byron was touched by the scene that day and both of us shot many photographs.

In 2000, the Dooleys sold their house when the internet bubble burst in 2000, left their Silicon Valley jobs, and moved to Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain. Byron earned a viticulture and winemaking degree at Napa Valley College, interned at Williams Selyem, and made his own Bordeaux-style wine from Napa Valley fruit. In 2004, after Dooley graduated, the couple bought a property in the Yamhill-Carlton District and developed Luminous Hills Vineyard. Dana opened Honest Chocolates in McMinnville, selling traditional style chocolates, and later opened another branch in Carlton which shares space with the Seven of Hearts tasting room. Luminous Hills wines are poured at the Seven of Hearts Wine Center in Carlton. Seven of Hearts Wine is the Luminous Hills companion label featuring multiple varietals made from sourced grapes grown in several Willamette Valley and neighboring regions. Two additional sub-labels of Seven of Hearts, are Chatte d’Avignon, a lineup of Rhone varietals, and Chateaux Figareux, a number of Bordeux varietals. The inaugural vintage for Luminous Hills wines was 2008.

The label on the Seven of Hearts wines has neo-classical elements, symbolizing the Dooleys’ passion for the traditional Burgundian style of Pinot Noir.

Seven of Hearts wines and Luminous Hills wines are sold on the respective websites: www.sevenofheartswine, www.luminoushills.com. The Seven of Hearts wines are well-crafted and easy to like, while the Luminous Hills Pinot Noirs are very special expressions of one site. The following wines were tasted with Byron at the Seven of Hearts Wine Center in Carlton.

Byron noted that 2013 was “crazy,” in that the summer was hot, ripening was progressing normally, and then a big rain event occurred at the end of September. The 2013 wines here were made from grapes that were mostly picked after the rain. Luminous Hills is a late ripening site and benefited in this vintage because the grapes were able to hang past the heavy late September rains without damage to or dilution of the fruit.

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Raptor Ridge Winery

Annie and Scott Shull founded Raptor Ridge Winery in 1995 on the northeastern side of the Chehalem Mountains, 10 miles north of Newberg. The name of the winery is derived from the many families of raptors that share the winery’s 27-acre estate. The 18-acre estate vineyard is named Tuscowallame, the indigenous words for “place where the owls dwell.” The vineyard is planted in Loess-based Laurelwood soil to Pinot Noir clones 114, 115, 667, 777, Wädenswil and Pommard.

Scott is a self-taught winemaker who specializes in Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The winery is also one of the few to produce a Grüner Veltliner. He is very active in the Oregon wine industry, participating as a founding member of the Oregon Wine Board and currently as President of the Chehalem Mountains Winegrowers Assocation. Annie travels extensively throughout the United States to personally represent Raptor Ridge. She is President Emeritus of the Oregon Pinot Camp Board.

Besides production from its estate vineyard, Raptor Ridge sources wine grapes from other Willamette Valley growers including Arbre Vert, Bellevue Cross, Carabella, Gran Moraine, Harbinger, Meredith Mitchell, Olenik and Shea. Total production at Raptor Ridge is about 7,500 cases of wine each vintage.

The winery’s tasting room is open seasonally and by appointment. The tasting room overlooks the vineyard and adjoining forested mountains and is quite a peaceful site to enjoy. VIP tours and tasting are available. Visit the website at www.raptorridgewinery.com. Raptor Ridge has an “Aroma Apothecary” in the tasting room, something I have never seen at a winery in all my years of travel. The Aroma Apothecary contains a set of 50 basic aromas commonly found in wine. Visitors are encouraged to take an aroma quiz and boost their tasting acumen (list of aromas below). Highly personable sommelier, Tom Champine, manages sales and marketing for the winery and you are likely to see him if you visit.

When I visited recently on a glorious sunny morning, I toured the winery with Scott and sampled a few of the winery’s new releases. I did not do a formal sit-down tasting so I can only report some general, yet favorable, impressions.

Also reviewed in the PinotFile (www.princeofpinot.com/winery/641/): 2012 Raptor Ridge Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2012 Raptor Ridge Gran Moraine Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir and several Raptor Ridge Pinot Noirs from the 2011 vintage.

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Anam Cara Cellars

I recently visited Sheila Nicholas at the Anam Cara Cellars tasting room in Newberg. I have written extensively in the PinotFile about this winery: www.princeofpinot.com/winery/268/. The winery has had several winemakers through the years, but owners Sheila and Nick have had considerable input and the style, although changed in subtle ways through the years, has never wavered. The current winemaker is Michael Collins who crafts the wines at 12th & Maple Winery in Dundee. All wines, including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewürztraminer, are estate grown. The website is www.anamcaracellars.com.

The 2012 Pinot Noirs tasted here will be released in the late fall of 2014 except for the Mark VII which will be held back until next year. These wines are among the very best I have tasted from this winery. Scary to think they were bottled in February 2014 and will only get better over the ensuing months in bottle.

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J.K. Carriere Wines

Jim Prosser, a native Oregonian, is the proprietor and winemaker of J. K. Carriere Wines, established in 1999 in the Chehalem Mountains. The winery’s name is a combination of his grandfather’s names and represents a covenant he holds with their integrity. A wasp is prominently displayed on the label and on the side of the winery, because Jim is highly allergic to wasps, and stings nearly killed him on two occasions. He carries an Epi-Pen in a holster on his belt just in case.

Jim has an appealing sense of humor that is best understood by viewing the videos he has posted on his website at www.jkcarriere.com. His winemaking experiences in Oregon, New Zealand, Australia and France have energized him with the desire to produce “classic” Pinot Noir that has high acid, smooth tannins, food friendliness and age ability. He uses an analogy to summarize his goal: Pinot Noir is a river of acidity with California on one bank, Oregon in the middle of the river, and Burgundy on the opposite bank. He tries to swim in the river. His wines do not shout at you, but require patience to uncover their subtlety. Jim recommends that his most serious wines be decanted the first three years. He claims the wines will easily age over ten years and I believe him. When I visited, I tasted a 2006 Vespidae that was as alive as the day it was bottled.

The first ten years, Jim made wine nearby in a 100-year-old hazelnut drying barn. By 2007, he had combed every available site in the Willamette Valley looking for an appropriate property of his own. Jim finally acquired 40 acres of grape-growing land on the southeastern flank of Parrett Mountain. In 2008 and 2009 a very functional winery was built on the vineyard property as pictured above.

Winemaking is very traditional with wild yeast ferments, wild malolactic fermentation, no additions, no fining and no filtering. The estate vineyard was planted initially in 2008 to non-irrigated Pommard clone Pinot Noir at an elevation of 500 to 700 feet in largely volcanic soils.

Grapes have been sourced from Temperance Hill Vineyard (Eola-Amity Hills), Anderson Family Vineyards (Dundee Hills), Gemini Vineyards (Chehalem Mountains), Shea Vineyards (Yamhill-Carlton), Momtazi Vineyards (McMinnville), Black Walnut Vineyard (Dundee Hills), and Eola Hills Vineyard (Eola-Amity Hills). Some sources are bottled specially in 2 to 3-barrel lots including Shea, Anderson Family and Gemini vineyards. A majority of production is dedicated to wallet-friendly wines in the $26 to $42 bottle range (Willamette Valley blend, Vespidae, and Provocateur). A Lucidité Chardonnay and Glass White Pinot Noir are also offered. Total production is about 4,000 cases annually.

The tasting room is located at the winery and is open Friday and Saturday March through November and by appointment at other times. The wines are sold through the winery’s online store and the Twelve Wine Club. Library wines and magnums are available. J.K. Carriere participates in Oregon’s Thanksgiving and Memorial weekend wine country open houses. On Thursday July 24, a pre-IPNC winemaker dinner will be held at J. K. Carriere with Jim and Allison Prosser as hosts. Visit the website for information.

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Sips of Recently Tasted Oregon Pinot Noir & More

Note: Christine Andrus has revived the Gypsy Dancer label. After Gary passed away, Christine moved to South Dakota and went into the Bison business. Over time, she felt a yearning to make wine again. She recruited winemaker Rebecca Pittock-Shouldis (Ghost Hill Cellars) to make the Gypsy Dancer Tribute wine. A second wine, Gypsy Dancer Legacy, will be made by Gary’s fellow winemakers who were touched and influenced by Gary. See www.gypsydancerwine.com for the full Gypsy Dancer story.

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Pinot Briefs

New Winemaker at Marcassin Winery Ryan O’Donnell joined Marcassin Winery as the new winemaker this spring. O’Donnell comes from Kosta Browne Winery where he was the associate winemaker, and before that, the associate winemaker at Paul Hobbs Winery.

Staff Changes at Archery Summit M. Eleni Papadakis is the new assistant winemaker and Tim Scott is the new vineyard manager. Last year the winery, which is owned by Crimson Wine Group, hired Chris Mazepink as the new general manager and winemaker following the departure of long time winemaker Anna Matzinger. Papadakis was the winemaker at Domaine Serene from 2008 to 2011. Scott was formerly the vineyard manager for Domaine Drouhin Oregon and switched places with the former vineyard manager, Leigh Bartholomew, who is now the vineyard manager at Domaine Drouhin Oregon.

Carlton Crush The Carlton Business Association (CBA) has announced that the registration process is open for all competitions at the upcoming 2014 Carlton Crush Harvest Festival. Registration forms for the Grape Stomp, Barrel Rolling Race, and Wine Thief Relay competitions are all available on the event’s website at www.CarltonCrush.com. The Carlton Crush Harvest Festival will be held on Saturday, September 13, 2014, celebrating the unique culture of Carlton and Yamhill County. Live music and entertainment, a vintage Thunderbird Car Display, festival food and drink, midway games for kids, an Artist’s Market, helicopter rides, and exciting competitions.

Top Ten Pinot Noirs The drinks business.com Global Pinot Noir Masters had 300 entries from 16 countries judged blind by an expert panel featuring eight Masters of Wine and one Master Sommelier. The results: (10) NV Champagne Soutiran Cuvée Perle Noire Grand Cru, (9) 2013 Viña Maycas del Limarí Pinot Noir Reserve (Chile who dominated the medals at the lower end of the Pinot price spectrum), (8) 2012 Hope Family Wines Liberty School Central Coast Pinot Noir, (7) 2011 Schug Carneros Estate Winery Pinot Noir, (6) 2010 Stoller Family Estate Reserve Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, (5) 2010 Bomb Wines Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (unreleased), (4) 2012 Circe Vineyards Hillcrest Road Mornington Peninsula Victoria Australia, (3) 2011 Craggy Range Vineyards “Aroha” Te Muna Road Vineyard New Zealand Pinot Noir, (2) 2011 Jackson Family Wines Wild Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, and (1) 2010 Viña Cono Sur Ocio Chile Pinot Noir.

Leading German Pinot Noir Producer Dies Bernhard Huber was one of the first in Germany to stop selling wine to local cooperatives and produce wine instead under his own name. He also led the charge to plant Pinot Noir in Germany between 1980 and 2012. His estate was located in Malterdingen in Baden. Huber was often referred to as the godfather of German Pinot Noir and some of his single-vineyard Pinot Noirs equaled or surpassed famous grand crus from Burgundy.

Corks Still the Preferred Closure Wine Business Monthly (June 2014) reported that natural corks remain the most common type of wine closure by a large margin. The number of wineries using natural corks have been about the same as 10 years ago, with 8 out of 10 wineries (78 percent) reporting that they use natural cork. Among Pinot Noir producers in California and Oregon, the overwhelming preference is for natural corks although there are a number of prominent producers committed to screwcaps.

Santa Barbara County Viticulture Maps Santa Barbara Vintners announced the release of six new Santa Barbara County viticulture maps. The detailed maps outline the AVA borders and indicate where each vineyard is located. The Santa Barbara County map shows the county as a whole, while the more specialized AVA maps show the vineyards in more detail. Each map retails for $20 plus tax and shipping and handling. Discounts for trade and multiple map purchases. Visit www.sbccountywines.com to buy.

Russian River Valley Winegrowers Look at Diversity in AVA Winemakers at the recent Russian River Valley Pinot Classic discussed splitting the appellation into “neighborhoods.” They chose to split the Russian River Valley into three neighborhoods for the discussion: the Middle Reach, Laguna Ridge and Green Valley. The Santa Rosa Plain and Sebastopol Hills are also being discussed. Today, the Russian River Valley AVA is huge at 169,029 total acres with about 16,000 acres planted to wine grapes. There is said to be more soil types than in Burgundy and there are marked climatic differences between the northern and southern neighborhoods, so it has hard to characterize the AVA as a whole. A special committee has been organized and led by Clay Gantz, a winegrower and member of the Russian River Valley Winegrowers Board, to attempt to define each neighborhood.

Underwood Oregon Pinot Noir & Pinot Gris in a Can Oregon wine producer Union Wine Company, owned by Ryan Harms, has launched Underwood Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris in 375-milliliter cans (two glasses or about a half bottle of wine) with a canned Rosé planed for early 2015. The wines are the first non carbonated wines to be bottled in a can. The exact wines are also available in bottles. The allure is that wine in cans is unpretentious (“pinkies down”) and practical as a can is very portable and readily disposable. They are lighter than bottles, easy to transport, unbreakable and reduce the environmental footprint because they are 100% recyclable. Apparently when the wine is poured into a glass, it tastes identical to the same wine poured from a bottle. Since the can is lined, there is no metallic flavor. A four-pack of Pinot Noir is $24.00. The 2013 Underwood Pinot Noir is sourced from the Umpqua Valley (60%) and the Willamette Valley (40%). Aged 6 months in 15% new French oak barrels with a finished alcohol of 13.0% and residual sugar of less than 0.2%. The 2013 wine was released in April 2013. There is distribution in many states and it can be bought online at www.unionwinecompany.com. Union Wine Company, operating out of Sherwood, Oregon, has a Tasting Truck which is used for events and will serve as a mobile tasting room in Portland. Union Wine Co. recently purchased historic Amity Vineyards.

Scratchpad Sports Interactive Wine Label Terravant Wine Company in Buellton has released three wines from California’s Central Coast (2011 Pinot Noir - $15,, 2011 Chardonnay - $13, and 2012 Sauvignon Blanc - $11)) that have nearly blank labels that encourage drinkers to draw and write on the front label, take a photo, and share via social media including the Scratchpad Facebook page and Instagram. The Scratchpad wines come with a charcoal pencil hung on the neck that says, “Doodle, Post, Sip.” The wines are in wide distribution.

Winemaker Chris Whitcraft Dies Years ago when I had a burgeoning interest in Pinot Noir, I became interested in Whitcraft’s quirky newsletters and his Pinot Noirs. He began the Whitcraft label in Santa Barbara in 1976 and was one of the first wineries within the city limits. Whitcraft started with sparkling wine and Chardonnay, unhappy with his early attempts at Pinot Noir because of the way grapes were grown at the time. He started making Pinot Noir in earnest in 1985. His wines were sometimes a bit off the beaten track but were always interesting. Legend has it that he lived in a camper during harvest behind the Hitching Post II restaurant and spent a number of evenings in the bar drinking wine with Frank Ostini. He talked to Rex Pickett, the author of ‘Sideways,’ on a number of occasions. He also was friends with Burt Williams of Williams Selyem fame and made wine from Williams’ Morning Dew Ranch in Anderson Valley. Whitcraft had his own daily radio show called “The Wine show” from 1978 to 1989. Most recently, his son Drake had assisted in the winemaking at the winery’s industrial building in downtown Santa Barbara.

New Location for Soléna Estate The winery’s tasting room is now located 500 feet from the old one (it was sold to Kendall-Jackson) at 17096 NE Woodland Loop Road in Yamhill.

¡Salud! Has New Vision for Oregon Pinot Noir Auction. This year’s November 14-15 weekend auction will now be held entirely in the Willamette Valley due to a partnership with The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg. The Allison is hosting the Saturday events and closing its doors to the general public so that only ¡Salud! guests can stay at the Inn November 14-15. There are a limited number of weekend packages for sale, which include two nights deluxe lodging, transportation and two tickets to the ¡Salud! Cuvée Tasting & Auction at Domaine Drouhin Oregon, and two tickets to the Dinner and Auction Gala, plus breakfast Saturday morning. The price of the weekend package starts at $1,500 a couple. Call The Allison Inn & Spa at 877-294-2525. Tickets to the ¡Salud! Friday and Saturday events are available online at www.tualityhealth.ejoinme.org/salud2014. ¡Salud! is a cause that I have supported for many years. It is a unique collaboration between Oregon winemakers and healthcare professionals to provide access to healthcare services for Oregon’s seasonal vineyard workers and their families.

Linfield College Survey Trumpets Oregon Wine A 2014 Linfield College consumer survey looked at attitudes toward Oregon versus California wines and wineries among 1,020 consumers. In seven categories, Oregon trumped California: Hand crafted artisan wines, Organic or sustainably made, Small family farms, Community/collaboration, Value for Price, Uniqueness and Quirkiness/independence. California scored higher than Oregon in four categories: Mass produced wine, Tradition, Expensive wines, and Easy to find when I buy wine. Jean Yates, former owner of Avalon Wine in Corvallis, said about this survey: “Oregon winery owners spend time and money to promote their wines, marketing their visions, their goals, and the fruits of their labors. Some wineries emphasize history, others a philosophy of life. The focus might be environmental, local food production, or social. Each winery wants to stand out and be identified for their own unique brand and style. Oregon wine, as a statewide industry, needs a definition. The Linfield study is important to all Oregon wineries, and to the industry overall.”

Hanzell Winemaker Icon Bob Sessions Dies at Age 82 There have been a number of tributes written about Bob Sessions who was revered winemaker at Hanzell Vineyards in Sonoma Valley for more than 41 years. He had succumbed to a long battle with Alzheimer’s disease. Warren Winiarski, the father of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, said, “I was a long time admirer of Bob’s wines and asked him many years ago during a job transition for him to join us at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. His presence and contributions at the winery were a model to judge whether we were accomplishing our goals for excellence.” He first assumed the role of Winemaker and General Manager of Hanzell Vineyards in 1973, and always took to heart the dreams and visions of its founder, Ambassador James D. Zellerbach, in producing wines that equalled the best in the world. He produced Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that were equal to the greatest wines in the world. His wines could be cellared for decades on a path parallel with Grand Cru Burgundy. Very few winemakers in the world have left such an amazing legacy of quality and longevity. In 2002, Sessions retired and assumed the role of Winemaker Emeritus, passing on his knowledge and experience to the winemakers that followed, including current Winemaker Michael McNeill, only the fifth winemaker in the history of the estate.

Artesa Abandons Vineyard Plans Near Annapolis As reported in The Press Democrat (June 3, 2014), Artesa Vineyards and Winery plans to sell their 324-acre property for $1.5 million after last year environmentalists persuaded a Sonoma County judge to rule that the vineyard’s environmental studies were flawed. Artesa claims it has refocused their growth strategy on the Napa Valley rather than the Sonoma Coast.

West of West Festival in Sebastopol The annual West of West Festival, sponsored by the West Sonoma Coast Vintners (WSCV) will be held at The Barlow in Sebastopol, California on August 1-3. The event kicks off with nine intimate winemaker dinners on August 1. On August 2, the morning Seminar will feature “The Evolution of California Cuisine and Wine,” and the afternoon Seminar will focus on “Charles Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay.” The Grand Tasting will follow on Saturday and then a dinner featuring the talent behind San Francisco’s three hottest restaurants (Statebird Provisions, Rich Table and Bar Tartine). The Grand Tasting will be repeated in the afternoon on August 3. Tickets and information are at www.westsonomacoast.com.

Erin Miller New Winemaker at Twomey Cellars The Duncan family announced the appointment of Erin Miller as Pinot Noir Winemaker for Twomey. She will report to longtime Silver Oak and Twomey Director of Winemaking Daniel Baron, but will be responsible for managing wine production from grape to bottle. Erin earned an MS from University of California at Davis. Most recently she was with Provingage Wine Associates, working for Evening Land Vineyards as California Winemaker and Oregon Assistant Winemaker and managing four boutique wineries. Previously she worked for Hartford Family Winey and Kendall-Jackson’s Vinwood Cellars.

Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Released Jackson Family Wines is now California’s largest landowner in Oregon following the 2013 purchase of the 220-acre vineyard and site of the former Soléna Estate Winery in the Yamhill-Carlton District. The Gran Moraine Vineyard, part of the purchase, is the source of the newly launched Gran Moraine Pinot Noir. Grapes from this vineyard also go into the La Crema Willamette Valley Pinot Noir first released this year.

12th Annual Mendocino Ridge & Yorkville Highlands Wine Festival This event will be held on Saturday, August 2, 2014, at Meyer Family Cellars on Highway 128 between Cloverdale and Boonville. Over 60 local wines will be offered along with a grape stomp, highlands games, barbecue, and rare bottle silent auction. For information and tickets, visit www.yorkvillehighlands.org.

In Pursuit of Balance 2015 Four new wineries, Big Basin Vineyards, Lutum Wines, Mindego Ridge and Wenzlau Vineyard have joined the 29 returning IPOB wineries. The 2015 events are in New York February 23, San Francisco March 16, Houston March 30 and Japan the week of April 13. IPOB tasting committee, members are Ian Becker, Jon Bonner, Christie Dufault, Ehren Jordan, Rajat Parr and Wolfgang Weber. Visit the website at www.inpursuitofbalance.com.

Wally’s Central Coast Wine & Food Celebration Taste nearly 150 of the Central Coast’s finest wines and savor signature dishes provided by renowned restaurants like The Hitching Post’s legendary Santa Maria BBQ, Full of Life Flatbread, and favorite Los Angeles restaurants Republique and WP24. Sunday, July 27, 2014, 1:00-4:00. The event benefits the Michael Bonaccorsi Scholarship Fund at Allan Hancock College Department of Viticulture and Enology, whose alumni are the backbone of the Central Coast wine industry. Participating wineries include Alma Rosa, Brewer-Clifton, Fiddlehead Cellars, Foxen, Hilliard Bruce, Melville, Mount Eden Vineyards, Paul Lato, Talbott, and Talley. Tickets are $99 at www.wallywine.com.

Santa Rita Hills Wine & Fire 2014 The Sta. Rita Hills Winegrowers Alliance presents their annual Wine and Fire event, a three day adventure exploring the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Kick Off Barn Party at Sanford Winery’s Sanford and Benedict Barn on August 15 featuring fire-grilled pizzas, music and plenty of Pinot Noir. The Wine and Fire Seminar, The Dirty Truth, will be the following day at Fiddlestix Vineyard where winemakers and sommeliers team up to challenge the senses in a blind tasting of Sta. Rita Hills wines. The morning seminar will be led by Josh Raynolds of Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, and features Jeff Newton of Central Coast Vineyard Care who manages hundreds of acres of vineyards in Santa Barbara County. A Hitching Post II catered lunch will follow. Saturday night, August 16, will be the Grand Tasting at La Purisma Mission with local food purveyors and wines from all producers in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. On Sunday, August 17, members of the Sta. Rita Hills Winegrowers Alliance will hold special open houses. For further information and tickets, visit www.staritahills.com.

Urban Winery in Los Angeles Urban wineries are commonplace in Portland, Oregon, New York, New York, and San Francisco, California, but now Abe Schoener, of Scholium Project, plans to seek funding to build a $2 million winery in the Central Avenue district of Los Angeles. Schoener told Decanter.com that he plans to source grapes from the hills east and north of San Diego, the Santa Monica Mountains, and Rancho Cucamonga. He also plans to plant vineyards adjacent the Los Angeles River in central Los Angeles. Currently, Scholium Project releases about 3,000 cases of wine annually from grapes sourced in the Lodi, Napa Valley and Sonoma Coast.

Petaluma Gap Applies for AVA Status The Petaluma Gap region, which extends from the San Francisco Bay to the Pacific coast and is currently part of the huge Sonoma Coast AVA, has applied for its own AVA status. The name, Petaluma Gap, is derived from the 15-mile opening in the coastal California hills that allows cool maritime air to enter Sonoma County. It is a distinct winegrowing region, quite different from the western Sonoma Coast and deserving of its own AVA designation.

The Wine Dudes Blog Along with fellow wine writer, Eric Anderson (Grape Nutz), I write the Wine Dudes Blog at www.orangecoastmagazine.com. There are two posts a week and a Must-Try Wine of the week. I frequently post on Pinot Noir, but also include recommendations for other varietals. I also post reviews of Orange County restaurant wine programs. Check it out for a quick, interesting read.

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Willamette Valley Epilogue

Oregonians appear quirky to most Californians, but therein lies their charm. Everyone respects the speed limit, even on freeways, they drive American cars, polite attendants pump your gas, and there is no disdain for old, used and weathered items including cars, Coming from Orange County, California, where everyone is into image and possessing “things,” I find the change when I hit the roads in the Willamette Valley very refreshing.

It makes little sense to drive an expensive car in the Valley as many roads are either unpaved or paved with tire-ripping gravel. This rural, serene, agricultural region with miles and miles of rolling hills and valleys planted with wine grapes, grain, grasses and hazelnut trees, causes your heart rate to slow. Laid back towns dot the landscape, and some seem frozen in time since the 1950s. People are cordial, greet you nicely at stores, restaurants and wineries, and seem genuinely interested in what you have to say. Small, independent business are still plentiful in the Valley, although chains and franchises are creeping in.

Street signs are challenging with practically every street preceded by a direction such as “SE,” or “NW.” It is easy to get lost because streets have no sensible pattern in many areas such as the Chehalem Mountains where I become easily disoriented. A GPS may or may not be your best friend. When visiting a winery in Dallas, I met with an actual ferry that transported cars, a few at a time, across the Willamette River. It seems that it would be reasonable to build a short bridge instead, but then, this is Oregon farm country.

Except for the summertime when it can be quite warm, it rains almost daily in the Willamette Valley. This deters visitors and challenges businesses and wineries to remain open and turn a profit in the winter months. Primarily because of this incessant wetness, residents rarely dress up.

The artisan Oregon wines are far from quirky. They are genuine, often sustainably produced, hand crafted in small lots, and frequently offer good value for the price. The camaraderie among winemakers and winery owners is real and pervasive. There are many exciting developments in Pinot Noir winemaking going on including more whole cluster vinification, amphora vinification, and consistent quality despite the vagaries of vintages. Prices for premium Oregon Pinot Noir are slowly escalating, but the quality justifies the rising tide. Premium Oregon vineyard land is still affordable compared to California, and many outsiders, both from our country and Burgundy, are jumping in.

Oregon wine people love to talk about soils and the AVAs of the Willamette Valley are largely characterized by their soils. There are two main types mentioned frequently: (1) red volcanic basalt soils known as Jory from 13 million-year-old lava flows, and (2) brown marine sedimentary soils known as Willakenzie laid down under the ocean flow 20 million years ago. Generalizations can be made regarding flavor and style of Pinot Noir for the AVAs based on the differences in soil type. The AVAs with predominantly Jory soils, like the Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, and parts of the Chehalem Mountains and McMinnville, tend to produce Pinot Noirs with bright red fruits including cherry and raspberry, and are softly textured with modest tannins. The Pinot Noirs from AVAs with Willakenzie soils like Yamhill-Carlton, Ribbon Ridge, and parts of the Chehalem Mountains and McMinnville, typically offer darker fruit, spice (cola, anise), and wet leaf flavors, and tend to be more tannic and structured. The best way to get a feel for the different AVAs of the Willamette Valley is to visit and taste. All the AVAs are contiguous, and easily explored by car over the course of a few days.

The last frontier to conquer for the Willamette Valley wineries is the presentation of food pairings on site. The Pacific Northwest has a tremendous bounty of gastronomic riches that pair well with Pinot Noir, including wild mushrooms, salmon, shellfish, cheeses, charcuterie, bacon and hams, and hazelnuts. It is only a matter of time until more Willamette Valley wineries will follow the lead of California and offer food pairings at tasting rooms to enhance the enjoyment of the tasting experience.

To read more about the Willamette Valley vintners, I recommend the book, Winemakers of the Willamette Valley: Pioneering Vintners from Oregon’s Wine Country (Vivian Perry and John Vincent, paperback, 2013). The book begins with a short history of the Willamette Valley wine region and then profiles 19 prominent winemakers, most of whom did not set out on a life path to be an Oregon vintner. Familiar names are included such as Isabelle Dutarte (De Ponte Cellars), Harry and Wyne Peterson-Nedry (Chehalem), Lynn Penner-Ash (Penner-Ash), Luisa Ponzi (Ponzi Vineyards), Kelley Fox (Scott Paul), and a memoriam to respected winemaker Forrest Glenn Klaffke. The three-page foreword written by Harry Peterson-Nedry is worth the price of the book alone. He emphasizes the changing landscape of the Willamette Valley wine experience with the only constant being the passion of the people involved.