Sips of Recently Tasted Pinot Noir
Alma Fria
The Holtermann family has imported and represented many notable and leading wineries worldwide for three
generations. Their personal relationship with the enologists, viticulturists and marketers of these wineries
provided a unique lens through which the Holtermanns were able to gain insights into the challenges and
intricacies of winegrowing. The Holtermann family planted their roots in the remote ridge tops of Annapolis in
the Sonoma Coast and are now committed to handcrafting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of elegance and
complexity. Alma Fria wines are available through allocation: www.almafria.com.
2013 Alma Fria Plural Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.1% alc., 340 cases, $40. Native yeast fermentation,
aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 10% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass Whole cluster
character dominates the aromatics which offer scents of bark, spice and red rose petal. Less whole cluster
driven on the palate, featuring mid weight flavors of well-spiced cherry and boysenberry with a slight stem note
in the background. Good roundness, smoothly textured and admirable harmony with gripping acidity a
dominant feature.
Score: 88
2013 Alma Fria Holtermann Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.9% alc., 138 cases, $58. Vineyard
planted in 2002 in Annapolis at 700 to 800 feet elevation. 10% whole cluster. Native yeast fermentation, aged
14 months in French oak barrels, 20% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is generous
upon opening, offering hi-tone aromas of cherry, rose petal and exotic spices. Acidity drives the light to mid
weight core of spiced cherry, cranberry and purple berry fruits that are framed by caressing tannins. The finish
is fueled with a charge of fruit, leaving a citrus note in its wake. Still solid the next net day from a previously
opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 90
2013 Alma Fria Doña Margarita Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., 143 cases, $58. Vineyard planted in 2002 in Freestone at
500 to 625 feet elevation. 10% whole cluster. Native yeast fermentation,
aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 25% new.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose is alive with aromas of black
cherry, rose petal and woodshed. Imposing flavors of dark cherry, purple
grape and berry, and vivid spice grab on to the palate and finish with an
intense flourish. Fine-grain tannins add an appealing touch to the texture.
A classy wine.
Score: 92
COBB Wines
2012 COBB Coastlands Vineyard 1906 Block Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., 200 cases, $80.
Sourced from the 14-acre Coastlands Vineyard located near Occidental. This bottling includes a variety of
Pinot Noir selections planted on the steepest hillside of the vineyard in 1998 including Pommard and Mt. Eden.
“1906” was carved into an old oak tree by the original sheep rancher who worked the land after the great San
Francisco earthquake. Aged 30 months in French oak barrels, 35% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple hue in the
glass. The nose offers scents of sweet smoke, char and pine with very demure cherry aroma. Mid weight oakkissed
and spiced black cherry, blueberry and pomegranate fruits framed by silky tannins and bright acidity.
The noticeably intense herb and cherry driven finish lasts and lasts. When re-tasted the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine still had a significant oak overlay.
Score: 88
2013 COBB Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., 450 cases, $70. From a 6-acre
vineyard near Sebastopol. Dijon clones and Swan selection planted in Goldridge sandy loam. Aged 22 months
in French oak barrels, 35% new.
·
Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. A classy, feminine wine offering
aromas of red cherry pie glaze, rose petal, spice and a woodsy compliment. Silky and delicate on the palate,
with flavors of red cherry, strawberry, cranberry and piquant spice notes typical of this vineyard. Very elegant,
with suave tannins, a deft touch of oak, tart acidity, and a lovely finish filled with cherry, spice and sandalwood
goodness.
Score: 92
Dutton-Goldfield
2013 Dutton Goldfield Azaya Ranch Vineyard Marin County Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.63, TA 0.58, 279
cases, $58. This vineyard was planted by Mark Pasternak for the McEvoy family in Hicks Valley. There are 5
clones on this 18-acre ranch including 667, “828,” 115, 777 and 2A (only the first three listed are in this wine).
100% de-stemmed, 7-day cold soak, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is reluctant, but does offer pleasing aromas of black raspberry,
blackberry and pine with coaxing. Open and forward on entry, with a mid weight charge of purple and black
berry, and purple grape flavors, touched with a hint of spice. Modest tannins make for a smooth mouthfeel,
and the finish offers impressive length and power.
Score: 91
2013 Dutton Goldfield Devil’s Gulch Vineyard Marin County Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.58, 347
cases, $68. This pioneering planting in Marin County is owned and farmed by Mark Pasternak who is dedicated
to sustainable agricultural practices. Dijon clones. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, aged 17 months in
French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Highly aromatic, with scents of black
raspberry, sous-bois, spice, vanilla and cigar box. This one will put a smile on your face, with a delectable core
of fresh dark berry and plum flavors accented nicely with a bit of oak seasoning. Harmonious, soft tannins and
a velvety texture complete the picture. Tempting to finish the bottle.
Score: 92
2013 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Emerald Ridge Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.59, 682 cases, $62. This vineyard was planted by Steve Dutton to
several Pinot Noir clones. Pommard, 2A, “828,” and 667 were chose for this bottling. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day
cold soak, clones fermented separately, aged 17 months in French oak barrels, 55% new.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. The nose wants for fruit, offering instead scents of dusty rose and nutty oak. More
expressive on the palate, with a generous attack of black cherry and dark berry fruits. Suave and balanced,
with modest tannins and a fruit-driven finish that elevates the experience and offers welcome length.
Score: 90
2013 Dutton Goldfield Fox Den Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH
3.56, TA 0.58, 576 cases, $58. This 8-acre vineyard just above the town of Occidental is planted in Goldridge
sandy loam soil to Dijon clones 667, 777 and 115. This wine has equal lots of clone 667 and 777. 100% destemmed,
5-day cold soak, aged 17 months in French oak barrels, 55% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple
color in the glass. Aromas of berries, musk and earthy flora find traction over time in the glass. Mid weight
flavors of woodsy raspberry and cherry are framed by silky tannins. The finish is a bit abbreviated. I wish the
wine had slightly less oak overlay.
Score: 89
2013 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.57, 478
cases, $72. This vineyard is located in the extreme southwestern corner
of the Russian River Valley appellation on the coastal side of the
Petaluma gap and was planted in 1996 (115, 2A and 114) and 1997
(667). 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, aged 17 months in French
oak barrels, 55% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The
nose is exhilarating, with generous aromas of black raspberry, black
cherry and baking spices which elevate over time in the glass. The sappy
black raspberry and blackberry fruits have a majestic presence on the
palate with the luscious flavors expanding in the mouth and persisting
through a lengthy finish. The silky texture contributes to the seductive
vibe.
Score: 92
2013 Dutton Goldfield Angel Camp Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.63, TA 0.58,
459 cases, $58. Sourced from a 11.5-acre vineyard west of Philo. Clones are Pommard, “828,” and 667. 100%
de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, co-fermentation of clones, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose and palate are dark fruited with complimentary notes of
oak-driven spice and sandalwood. More Pinot perfume needed. The tannins are well-matched, there is a good
acid backbone, and the wine picks up some interest over time in the glass. Still it remains a very good but not
special wine.
Score: 89
2013 Dutton Goldfield McDougall Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH
3.63, TA 0.54, 415 cases, $58. This 9-acre vineyard was planted in 1998 to Dijon clones of Pinot Noir. 100%
de-stemmed, 7-day cold soak, aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple
color in the glass. The aromatic goodness builds over time in the glass, offering scents of raspberry, bourbon,
iron and vanilla. Lighter in weight, with a silky, elegant presence on the palate, picking up more pretentious
flavor and verve over time. Enjoyable, but doesn’t have the fruit sap that some may prefer.
Score: 89
Ken Brown
2013 Ken Brown Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.71, TA 0.59, 787 cases, $35.
A blend of grapes from multiple vineyards in Santa Barbara County with nearly half from Rio Vista
Vineyard. 100% de-stemmed, pre-fermentation cold soak, aged 11 months in French oak barrels,
30% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Promiscuous aromas of dark, earthy
cherry, red licorice, spice and a hint of smoke are the best feature of this wine. A light to mid weight
offering that has enough earthy cherry flavor to satisfy, although the mid palate wants for more
intensity. Forward drinking, with modest tannins, a compliment of oak, and a cherry-fueled finish that is not
particularly long, but flavorful.
Score: 89
2013 Ken Brown Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.61, 416 cases, $45. 36% Radian
Vineyard, 32% Rio Vista Vineyard, 21% Buona Terra Vineyard, and 11% Rita’s Crown Vineyard. 100% destemmed,
pre-fermentation cold soak, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 32% new.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. The nose reminds of walking in a recently cultivated field with aromas of earth and
mushroom, and a bit of dark cherry and black raspberry. A step up in fruit intensity from the Santa Barbara
County bottling, featuring flavors of purple and black fruits and a hint of iron. There is deft oak treatment, the
tannins and acidity are well proportioned, and the juicy finish really satisfies. A well composed appellation wine.
Score: 90
2013 Ken Brown Rita’s Crown Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., pH 3.51, TA 0.56, 323 cases, $60. This is one of the
highest elevation vineyards in the region at 600 to 950 feet. The
soils are shallow and the vines are exposed to coastal fog and
ocean winds. Planted in 2007, it has quickly become one of the
most highly regarded vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Clones
667, 777 and “828.”
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
Soaring perfume with an array of dark fruits including black cherry and
black raspberry, with a hint of spice and rose petal. Flat-out delicious mid
weight plus core of black raspberry and blackberry fruit flavors matched
to balanced tannins and juicy acidity. The mid palate attack is eye
opening, the seductive mouthfeel is velvety, and the richly endowed
finish leaves an impression. A very classy offering from one of Central
California’s winemaking icons, and one of the best Pinots I have had from this region in 2015.
Score: 94
Kesner
These wines (and the Chardonnays reviewed elsewhere in this issue) are my first experience with Kesner
Wines which was launched in 2002. Owner and winemaker Jason Steven Kesner has lived in the Napa Valley
since 1979. From 2000 to 2008, he managed Hudson Vineyards in Carneros, and in the summer of 2008,
joined Kistler Winery as an assistant winemaker and vineyard manager. In 2014, he became the winemaker at
Kistler. Jason’s philosophy is to try to find great sites and “stay out of the way.” He has too much respect for the
growing process to “make” wines. No additions are made to the Pinot Noirs which are aged in barrel 16 months
on average, sur lie, with no battonage. “The most important day that shapes the wines is the day on which the
fruit is picked, as it’s hard to approximate natural balance.” The Kesner wines are on many prestigious
restaurant wine lists. The wines are sold through a mailing list at www.kesnerwines.com.
2012 Kesner Vadim’s Watch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $65. Fruit sourced from Terra De
Promissio Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap region of the Sonoma Coast.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in
the glass. The aromas come together beautifully over time in the glass, featuring purple and black berries,
underbrush and toast. Both fruity and savory, with mid weight plus flavors of boysenberry, blackberry,
mushroom and earth. Excellent acid backbone with admirable polish. Much better over time in the glass. A tad
more body and length than the 2013 bottling of this wine.
Score: 92
2013 Kesner Vadim’s Watch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc.,
$65. Whole berry, native yeast fermentation. Only free-run juice. Aged 16
months sur lie in 25% newer French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. The nose leads off with aromas of
cherry, baking spices and complimentary oak. A lovely wine with great
purity of fruit and refinement, offering plenty of black cherry and plum
flavor touched by toasty oak. Very charming and silky on the palate with
juicy acidity that lifts the fruit. The aromas and flavors changed
considerably over time. More delicate than the 2012 version of this wine,
but equally inviting.
Score: 92
2012 Kesner King’s Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $60.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. The nose offers a pleasant marriage of black raspberry and black cherry fruit and sweet oak aromas.
Impressive attack of blueberry, black raspberry and black cherry fruit flavors underlain with a compliment of
integrated oak and spice. Well-composed with balanced tannins and admirable acid integration creating a
seamless drinking experience. Curiously, when re-tasted the following day and two days later from a previously
opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had taken on a herbaceous tone.
Score: 89
2013 Kesner King’s Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., $60. Whole berry, native yeast
fermentation. Only free-run juice. Aged 16 months sur lie in 20% newer French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. A charming wine with aromas and flavors of dark red cherries, cranberry, spice and
toasty oak. Discreetly concentrated, with modest tannins and good acid verve. Unchanged the following day
from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 90
2014 Kesner Halfmile Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., $60. Release spring 2016.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. Complex aromatic profile, featuring scents of black cherry, blackberry, black
currant, purple grape, spice cake and earthy flora. Heavily endowed with oak flavor at present, becoming less
evident over time in the glass. The mid weight core of darker stone and berry fruits pick up weight and
presence over time. Modest tannins, lively acidity and a welcome finish. This wine is not yet ready for prime
time, explaining the future release.
Score: 88-90
LaRue Wines4>
2013 LaRue Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.9% alc., 235 cases, $60. A blend of grapes from Rice-Spivak
(Dijon clones and Swan selection) and Emmaline Ann (Dijon clones) vineyards. Aged for 20 months in 100%
French oak barrels, 30% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose leads with aromas of
cherry, wilted rose, tobacco and spice. Whole cluster inclusion is evident in the array of flavors that include
dark berries, black cherry, black plum, and a hint of stem. Intense entry, attack and finish with prominent citrus-fueled
acidity in the background. The acidity sticks out as sharp and steely, particular on the lemony finish.
Score: 89
2013 LaRue Emmaline Ann Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.8% alc., 52 cases, $70. From a 3-acre
vineyard near the town of Freestone. Dijon clones planted in Goldridge sandy loam. Aged 20 months in 100%
French oak barrels, 50% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Enticing aromas of macerated
cherries, rose petal, nutmeg and Christmas spices. All silk and satin on the palate with a lip-smacking core of
black cherry and black raspberry fruit accented with a touch of stem and oak. A citrus-driven acidity note
hovers in the background that leads to a mildly tart finish. The acidity is noticeable but better integrated than in
the Sonoma Coast bottling.
Score: 90
LUMOS
2013 LUMOS Five Blocks Wren & Temperance Hill Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., 290
cases, $25. Release January 1, 2016. Certified organic vineyards. Vegan-friendly. Sourced from the 15-acre Wren Vineyard
planted to Pommard clone Pinot Noir, located on grower and winemaker Dai Crisp’s 100-acre family
farm, and the 100-acre Temperance Hill Vineyard.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very
inviting aromas of cherry, forest floor and a hint of tobacco-laden oak. Vivid and crisp, with black
cherry, black raspberry and spice really popping on the palate. Amazing grip and persistence on an
incredibly long finish. Beautifully crafted, with integrated tannins and deft oak seasoning. An incredible wine at
this price.
Score: 92
2013 LUMOS Temperance Hill Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., 143 cases, $45. Release January 1, 2016.
Vineyard is USDA certified organic. Vegan-friendly.
·
Moderately
dark reddish purple color in the glass. Inviting perfume of dark
berries and pie cherries with an earthy underpinning. Heavenly
flavors of marionberry, plum, pomegranate and spice that fills the
mouth with layers of goodness. This wine comes at you from all angles
and refuses to leave on the fruit-laden finish. A Pinot Noir that is both
husky and masculine, yet refined and sophisticated. The serious fruit
intensity is deftly balanced by a tannic backbone that insures age ability. I
can’t say enough good things about this special wine.
Score: 94
MacPhail Family Wines
2013 MacPhail Tolouse Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., pH 3.78, TA 0.58, 503 cases,
$49. Harvest Brix 23.6º to 25.5º. Clones 2A, Pommard, 115, 667 and 777. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak,
native and proprietary yeast primary fermentation, native malolactic fermentation in barrel, batonage weekly for
3 months, aged 11 months sur lie in 100% French oak barrels, 40% new. Bottled unfined and lightly filtered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasing aromas of black cherry, plum and rose petals.
Bright acidity drives the palate that is replete with flavors of dark red cherry and berries and a deft note of oak.
Supple tannins make for easy drinking, and the finish is particularly pleasing with a burst of Bing cherry and a
tight grip. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 90
2013 MacPhail Wightman House Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., pH 3.79, TA 0.55, 95
cases, $55. Harvest Brix 23.5º. Martini clone. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, proprietary yeast primary
fermentation, native malolactic fermentation in barrel, aged 11 months sur lie in 100% French oak barrels, 50%
new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with elevating
aromas of cherry, raspberry and sous-bois. Very silky on the palate, with plenty of personality, featuring mid
weight flavors of black cherry, blackberry, anise and black tea. Impressive fruit presence in a beautifully
balanced wine that aims to please.
Score: 91
2013 MacPhail Lakeview Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.58, TA 0.58, 192
cases, $49. Inaugural release from this 8.6-acre vineyard planted
in Goldridge sand loam soil. Harvest Brix 24.5º. Clones 114 and
115. 84% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, native and proprietary
yeast fermentation, native malolactic fermentation in barrel,
batonage weekly for 3 months, aged 16 months sur lie in 100%
French oak barrels, 37% new. Unfined and lightly filtered.
·
Moderately
light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose reminds one of the
holidays, with aromas of cherries, berries and Christmas spice. Delicious
Bing cherry fruit floods the mouth with a bit of purple berry and spice
chiming in. The tannins are soft and balanced, the mouthfeel is all
velvet, and the extraordinarily intense finish made me sit up in my chair.
Still prodigious the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, with all components working in
perfect harmony.
Score: 94
Ponzi Vineyards
2014 Ponzi Vineyards Tavola Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.7% alc., $25, screwcap. Sourced from multiple sustainably-grown
vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley. Extended
cold soak, native yeast fermentation, aged in French oak
barrels, 20% new, for 11 months. Unfined and unfiltered. Aged
7 months in bottle before release.
·
Moderate reddish purple
color in the glass. Highly fragrant with aromas of black cherry, black
raspberry, cola and toasty oak leaping from the glass. Noticeably fresh
and energetic, with a juicy core of cherry fruit augmented with a light
touch of oak. Beautifully integrated acidity drives the palate in the
forward-drinking, food-friendly and enjoyable wine.
Score: 89
2013 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., pH 3.68, $40. Released September 2015. A
blend from Ponzi’s Aurora and Avellana vineyards as well as nine other vineyards. 5-day cold soak, aged 11
months in French oak barrels, 35% new, and aged 5 months in bottle. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate
reddish purple color in the glass. Very little black cherry fruit on the nose with a strong cigar box scent. Mid
weight core of black cherry fruit with complimentary oak and spice accents, backed by svelte tannins. Easy to
drink, with a modest finish.
Score: 87
2013 Ponzi Vineyards Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., pH 3.55, 1,250 cases, $60. A blend
of LIVE Certified Sustainable fruit from Ponzi’s Aurora, Abetina and Madrona vineyards, as well as fruit from
Linda Vista, Kason, Zenith and Walnut Ridge vineyards. Primarily grapes grown in Laurelwood soils in the
Chehalem Mountains AVA. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, 7-day post-fermentation maceration, and aged
for 20 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered and aged an additional 5 months
before release.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasing aromas of cherry,
raspberry, herbs, nuts and nori. The array of darker red cherry and berry fruit really sparkles on the palate
which offers added accents of black tea, savory dried herbs and toasty oak. Silky tannins add a seductive
mouthfeel. This is a giving wine upon opening, but becomes noticeably better over time in the glass. Decant or
hold in your cellar for full enjoyment.
Score: 91
Privé Vineyard
2014 Privé Vineyard le nord Estate Grown Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc.,
$50. 100% old vine Pommard.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas
of dark cherry, cola and complimentary oak. An appealing marriage of dark red cherry and berry fruits, oak
vanillin and acid along with a firm, balanced tannic backbone. The finish offers lip-smacking acidity and a bit of
alcoholic warmth. The fruit is not as expressive as it will be and the oak is more expressive than it will be.
When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine was a little more showy.
Score: 90-91
2014 Privé Vineyard le sud Estate Grown Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc.,
$60.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry and sandalwood lead to a charge
of dark red fruits that offer a luscious expression of dark cherry fruit. More assertive than le nord, with a finish
that really grabs your attention. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle,
the aromas of dark cherry and spice were intoxicating and the elegantly delivered cherry and spice flavors
were more inviting.
Score: 90-91
Red Car
Red Car has enjoyed a remarkable transformation since its early wines in the mid 2000s which were
significantly more extracted, more hedonistic, with higher alcohols and lower acidity. Now concentrating solely
on Sonoma Coast grape sources (“on the edge of the Pacific” as the website notes), Red Car is producing
wines that are more artfully and delicately balanced with more discreet extraction, lower alcohols and more
vivid acidity. There is more terroir speaking in the current wines and each wine has a distinct individualistic
character. All wines are vinified with wild yeast, gravity flow, and natural acidity. One never thinks oak when
tasting these stellar wines. Also, check out the latest Chardonnay releases (reviewed in this issue) as they are
really stellar.
The back labels of the current vintages are a model for other wineries to follow. They are very informative, with
all the important information displayed and no BS.
2013 Red Car Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.3% alc.,TA 0.57, $45. Sourced from several vineyards: Red Car
Estate (21%), Platt (19%), Bohemian Station (18%), Falstaff (12%), Riddle Ranch (12%), Hagan (11%) and
Clary Ranch (7%). Average harvest Brix 22.5º. Calera, “828,” 777, 115, Pommard and Schoolhouse clones.
Aged in 10% new and 90% neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Dark red
berries and cherries are featured in this mid weight wine that is smooth on the palate, nicely balanced, and
offers a lip-smacking cut of acidity on the finish. An admirable reflection of the Sonoma Coast in this vintage.
Score: 90
2013 Red Car Platt Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., 495 cases, $68. This vineyard
overlooks the town of Bodega, 5 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. Average harvest Brix 21.9º. Calera and
“828” clones planted in Goldridge sandy loam. 10% whole cluster. Aged 12 months in 20% new and 80%
neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Enthralling nose that really drew
me into the glass with aromas of red berries, brier, rose petal and spice. Lighter weighted, but generously
endowed with vivid strawberry, raspberry, red cherry and spice flavors backed by juicy acidity and backseat
tannins. Impeccable balance in this deftly composed and classy wine.
Score: 93
2013 Red Car Zephyr Farms Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., TA 0.51, 388 cases, $68. Vineyard is located 6.7 miles from
the Pacific Ocean in the hills above Freestone. Average harvest Brix 23º.
Clones 777, 667 and 115 planted in Goldridge sandy loam. 10% whole
cluster. Aged 12 months in 13% new and 87% neutral French oak
barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Enticing aromas of
purple berries, purple grapes and damp earth bring persistence on the
nose. Silky and long on the palate, with flavors of black cherry, ollaliberry
and spice. Nicely ripened fruit with phenolic majesty and welcome
brightness. Modest tannins make for easy drinking now, and the juicy cut
leads to a mouthwatering finish.
Score: 93
2013 Red Car Hagan Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., TA 0.51, 380 cases, $68. Vineyard is
located 4.6 miles from the Pacific Ocean on a windswept ridge at 850 feet. Average harvest Brix 22º. Calera,
777 and 115 clones planted in Goldridge sandy loam. 11% whole cluster. Aged 12 months in 27% new and
73% neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Reserved nose offering demure
aromas of black cherry, briar and rose petal. Delicious core of vivid black cherry and black raspberry fruits that
saturate the palate and persist through a remarkably intense finish that really grabs hold. Seductively silky with
fine-grain tannins and a savory riff of spice.
Score: 92
2013 Red Car Doc’s Ranch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., TA 0.51, 75 cases, $68. This
vineyard is located at 900 feet elevation, 4.7 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Swan clone planted in Yorkville
loam soil. Average Harvest Brix 21.8º. 10% whole cluster. Aged 12 months in 100% neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of red fruits, wilted rose and spice lead to a lightly
weighted palate of cranberry, strawberry and raspberry fruits. Very delicate, with good cut on the very modest
finish. A very pretty wine that is well-crafted, but doesn’t have enough to hold my full attention. Apparently this
was all the vineyard could give in this vintage.
Score: 89
small + tall
2012 small + tall “Joyful” Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., $60. Clone 115. 100%
de-stemmed, 4 to 6-day cold soak, native fermentation, aged 16 months in French oak barrels on the lees.
·
Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Aromas of cherry, strawberry and doughy oak are prominent initially,
with the fruit becoming less expressive over time in the glass. Enviable entry and attack of strawberry,
raspberry and cherry fruits accented with herbs and oak. The tannins are supported without being intrusive,
and the dry finish continues the red berry and cherry theme. Satisfactory, even very good, but not special.
Score: 89
2012 small + tall “Little Joy” Garey Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $48. Clone 777. 100% de-stemmed, 4 to 6-day
cold soak, native fermentation, aged 16 months in French oak barrels
(0% new).
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Embracing
aromas of cherries and berries with a compliment of oak. Relatively light
in weight but quite flavorful, featuring red fruits brought to life with juicy
acidity. Quite expressive, particularly on the lengthy finish. Plenty of Pinot
singing in this wine.
Score: 91
Stolo Family Vineyards
2013 Stolo Family Vineyards Estate Creekside Vineyard San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir
14.5% alc.,
375 cases, $32. Vineyard planted in 2008 in Cambria less than 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean. 100%
sustainably farmed by hand. Pommard clone. Harvest Brix 24.5º. Aged 10 months in 25% new French and
Hungarian oak barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. This is an oak-infused wine featuring
a middleweight core of black cherry and pomegranate fruits, well-proportioned tannins, and some intensity on
the lively finish.
Score: 87
2013 Stolo Family Vineyards Estate Hillside Reserve San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 164
cases, $42. Vines planted in 1998 less than 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean. 100% sustainably farmed by hand.
Clone 115. Harvest Brix 26.1º. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish
purple color in the glass. Aromas of ripe black cherry, blackberry, anise and forest floor. Plush, generous and
silky on the palate, with considerable tobacco-tinged oak infusing the dark fruited core of fruit. The wine is
forward drinking with modest tannins and some finishing length.
Score: 88
Other
2013 BARRA of Mendocino Estate Grown Mendocino Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.64, 876 cases,
$20. Harvest Brix 23.3º. Certified organic grapes.
·
Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Inviting
aromas of cherry, baking spice and underbrush. Light to mid weight essence of fresh red cherry and cranberry
fruits backed by ruddy tannins. A thread of herbal oak runs through the background. Bright and food friendly
with some finishing length.
Score: 88
NV Chateau La Paws California Pinot Noir
13% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.53, $12.99. Produced by Rosenblum
Cellars. Profits proudly support No Kill Shelters. Aged in French and American oak barrels. Contains a small
amount of Syrah (13%).
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is devoid of fruit, offering only
briar and oak char aromas. Somewhat more inviting on the palate, with mid weight plus flavors of black cherry
and strawberry that have a porto character and are framed by an unpleasant burnt caramel flavor.
Score: 85
2013 Girasole Vineyards Mendocino Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.62, 6,000 cases, $15. Harvest
Brix 24.7º. Estate grown, certified organic grapes, vegan.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass.
Aromas of cherry combined with oak-driven notes of ash and vanilla. Delicately fruited, featuring a black cherry
core with smoky oak in the background. Modest mid palate attack with a cherry-driven finish dominated by
charred oak.
Score: 85
2013 Hagafen Cellars Coombsville Napa Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.46, TA 0.58, 900 cases, $32.
Harvest Brix 23.1º.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose offers demure red fruits and
dominating oak-driven vanilla and spice. The cranberry, strawberry and Damsel plum fruits are well supported
by matched tannins, the mouthfeel is plush, and there is a reasonably long finish that features vanilla-scented
oak. This wine will appeal most to those who welcome lavishly oaked Pinot.
Score: 86
2014 Kingston Family Vineyards “CJ’s” Barrel Casablanca Valley Chile Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., 75 cases, $38. One of
only a handful of Chilean vineyards leveraging artisan
winemaking and sustainable viticultural techniques to uncover
the potential of cool climate Pinot Noir. This bottling is named
after CJ Kingston, a family patriarch and pioneer who came to
Casablanca in the early 1900s looking for gold. This is an extremely
limited special bottling, allocated to Old Corral club members and
available only direct from the winery. Aged 10 months in French oak
barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely
perfumed with bright aromas of fresh dark cherries, sous-bois and
mocha. Very soft in the mouth and quite charming, with a succulent core
of dark cherry, fig and nutty oak flavors dressed in suave tannins. Light
on its feet and a pleasure to drink.
Score: 90
2014 Roessler Wine Cellars Black Pine Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.67, TA 0.55,2,400 cases, $26.
Release January 1, 2016. From R2 Wine Company in Sonoma
founded by Richard and Roger Roessler. “Black Pine” is
literally the English translation of the words Pinot Noir. Aged 10
months in 20% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. A beautifully structured and harmonious wine
with aromas of black cherry, rose petal and earthy flora, and mid weight
juicy flavors of black cherry, cola, spice and mocha. Expansive on the
palate with impressive finishing power. A terrific value @
www.r2winecompany.com.
Score: 90
2014 Trader Joe’s Lot #57 Estate Grand Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $14.99.
Cellared and bottled by DNA Vineyards, Ukiah, CA.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Deep
aromas of Bing cherry, spice and toasty oak. Quintessential Russian River Valley in character, with mid weight
flavors of black cherry, cola and spice. This wine has noticeable power and intensity on the palate and finish
with a compliment of oak in the background. An easy drinking wine with substance that won’t disappoint at this
price point.
Score: 88
2014 Upper Eden Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., $12.99. A Trader Joe’s exclusive from
Upper Eden Wines in Soledad.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose did not appeal, with
aromas of dried cherry, pitch and underbrush. Better on the palate, with middleweight flavor of black cherry, RC
Cola and an accent of toasty oak. Structured, with good integration of the alcohol, and a modest finish.
Score: 86
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