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Sips of Recently Tasted Sonoma County Pinot Noir

Bacigalupi Vineyards, Healdsburg

After working with his parents, Charles and Helen Bacigalupidom for many years, son and second generation John Bacigalupi took the viticulture reins with his wife, Pam Heck Bacigalupi, who had grown up in a wine family at Korbel Winery. More recently, their third generation offspring, Katie Bacigalupi Row and Nicole Bacigalupi Derrico, spearheaded the launch of the Bacigalupi label and tasting room. Winemaker Ashley Herzberg crafts multiple varietals at Bacigalupi, all of which have garnered top reviews in the wine press. Visit www.bacigalupivineyards.com. A photo of a young Helen and Charles Bacigalupi below.

2014 Bacigalupi Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 200 cases, pH 3.60, TA 0.60, $65. 57% Wente clone, 43% Pommard clone. Harvest Brix 25.4º. 100% de-stemmed. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 40% new, with lees stirring. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Hard to coax much fruit out of the primary nose which offers mainly aromas of oak-driven toast and espresso at this stage. Much more expressive on the palate with a mid weight core of black cherry fruit that is ripe and fresh. The texture is lush and seamless, but the finish is only modest and the oak treatment is a tad heavy-handed. Score: 88

2014 Bacigalupi Vineyards Goddard Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.61, 95 cases, $70. Inaugural bottling in honor of the Bacigalupi’s 60th anniversary of farming premium grapes in the Russian River Valley. Harvest Brix 25.0º. 100% Wente clone. 100% de-stemmed, fermented whole berries. Aged in French oak barrels, 40% new, with lees stirring. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose is entirely seductive, sporting bright aromas of Bing cherry, rhubarb and spice. Deeply flavored with well-ripened cherry fruit accented with notes of cola and dark cocoa. Elegant and charming, with velvety tannins and deftly integrated oak. Score: 91



Benovia Winery, Santa Rosa

Winemaker and General Manager Michael Sullivan continues to craft outstanding examples of Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from estate vineyards and purchased grapes. The 2014 vintage was the third consecutive drought year and Sonoma County received less than half of its average rainfall. The growing season was ideal and the earliest harvest on record resulted in a crop that was much larger than average. The wines are more structured like the 2012 vintage wines. Only the 2014 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is part of the spring release. The other Pinot Noirs need more time in bottle and will be released in the fall. I tasted the wines about three months after bottling and gave a range of predicted scores based on more development in bottle. The wines are stellar in this vintage and I look forward to re-tasting them in another 5 months. The wines are sold primarily through a mailing list. Visit www.benoviawinery.com. The new Benovia winery is pictured below.

2014 Benovia Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., $38. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of darker cherries, underbrush and barrel lead to a mid weighted wine with a good attack of dark red berry and stone fruits with typical Russian River Valley spice. Oak plays supportive in background, the tannins are well merged, and the finish is intensely fruity. The wine was noticeably more aromatic and flavorful the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 88-89

2014 Benovia La Pommeraie Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc.. Vineyard is located along the Laguna Ridge at the edge of the Green Valley AVA and is planted to Dijon clones 777 and “828.” · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is entirely seductive even at this young age with aromas of dark red cherries a a field of Pinot Noir at bloom. Full-bodied and sappy, with flavors of purple and black fruits accented with a touch of oak. Plush, velvety and fruit-driven at this stage with mellow tannins and a bold, intensely fruited finish. The most concentrated wine in the 2014 lineup, yet engaging and balanced. Score: 91-93

2014 Benovia Bella Una Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc.. A blend of estate fruit. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Fresh aromas of cherry, strawberry and red grape. More forward drinking with flavors of red and dark red cherries and berries. Very silky, with juicy acidity, balanced tannins and an overall impression of vibrancy. Score: 91-92

2014 Benovia Martaella Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc.. This is an estate vineyard that surrounds the winery. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens reluctantly in the glass over time, offering scents of dark fruits, woodland and underbrush. Purple and black fruits are featured in this mid weight plus styled wine with structured tannins. Appealing refinement and polish with a smooth texture and a fruit-driven finish. Unchanged the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 91-92

2014 Benovia Tilton Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc.. This is an estate vineyard perched on a ridge top near the town of Freestone and is the winery’s coolest vineyard site. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A very tightly wound wine at this stage with shy aromas of grape, cherry and woodland. Lighter weighted in this vintage with a core of oak-kissed dark red fruits and bright acidity. Much more expressive the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 89-90

2014 Benovia Cohn Vineyard Sonoma County Pinot Noir

14.1% alc.. The winery’s oldest estate vineyard first planted in 1970 and located just west of the Russian River Valley AVA. · Moderately dark reddish purple hue in the glass. Seductive aromas of crushed black cherries, spice and old leather. On the palate, this wine only hints at its future potential, with a wellripened core of black fruits and spice with oak in the background. Noticeable more enjoyable the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle with intriguing aromas and flavors of black cherry and exotic spices. Score: 92-94



Bevan Cellars, Santa Rosa

Winemaker Russell Bevan currently crafts wines in Santa Rosa, but In 2016 construction began on a new winery and cave at Tench Vineyard in Bennett Valley, just a few miles from where Russell grew up. Some of the winery’s Bordeaux varietals are grown within 2 miles of the new winery. Russell mentions Greg La Follette and Phillip Togni as his mentors. He has focused on small vineyard sources in Napa and Sonoma counties and become well known for his bodacious Cabernet Sauvigons. He also consults for other clients including Wren Hop, Jemrose, Chateau Boswell and Harbison. Bevan’s long time partner, Victoria DeCrescenzo has played an important role in the winery as well. The wines are sold through a mailing list. The Pinot Noirs are full-bodied and rich, highly fruit-driven, yet balanced and easily approachable with alcohols tucked in. Visit www.bevancellars.com.

2014 Bevan Cellars Summit 2114’ Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $75. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Full-bodied and luscious, with aromas and flavors of black fruits, dark chocolate and espresso. The fruit is almost overwhelming, but is tamed by balanced tannins and proper acidity. Rather monotone without nuance at present, but a big and bold expression of Pinot Noir. More open and giving the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle indicating some cellaring is advisable. Score: 90

2014 Bevan Cellars Summit 1376’ Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $75. · Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Engaging aromas of boysenberry, blackberry and spice with less oak in put than the 2114’ bottling. An explosion of purple and black fruits greet the palate, along with complimentary oak-driven notes of dark chocolate and caramel, yet the hedonistic load of sappy fruit is tempered by firm tannins. This wine is not for the timid and is about as big as Pinot Noir gets. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the spectacular charge of fruit stood out and the oak overlay had tempered further. This wine is not my preferred type of Pinot Noir, but it is very well done in this style. Score: 91

Additional bottling outside Sonoma County

2014 Bevan Cellars Rita’s Crown Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $75. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose offers a shy assemblage of dark fruits backed by toasty oak and the slightest hint of volatile acidity. Full-bodied on the palate, with flavors of black raspberry, blackberry and cassis. The mouthfeel is plush and velvety, the oak is deftly integrated, and the fruit-driven finish satisfies. Still shy aromatically the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, with the velvety texture and glorious fruit still impressive. Score: 91



Bougetz Cellars, Napa

Winemaker Thomas Bougetz has a background in science and technology, but his interest in wine led him take up winemaking at the Northwest Wine Academy in Seattle, Washington. He works with vineyards from Santa Barbara to Eastern Washington, and although the emphasis is on Cabernet Sauvignon, he offers Pinot Noirs from the Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley. Visit www.bougetzcellars.com.

2013 Bougetz Cellars The Cairn Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.57, 200 cases, $39. Sourced from Volamus Vineyard. Clones 115, 667 and Pommard. Harvest Brix 26.0º. 15% whole cluster fermented. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40% new and 60% once-used. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. An array of scents greet the drinker including black cherry, blackberry, underbrush, earthy flora and sawdust. A mid weight plus styled wine that is packed with earth-kissed, sweet black fruits accented with flavors of anise, tar and char. Open and giving, with balanced tannins and a sweet blackberry finish. The wine was more enjoyable the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle showing less oak overlay. Score: 88

2014 Bougetz Cellars The Cairn Catie’s Corner Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.75, TA 0.58, 135 cases, $39. Harvest Brix 25.9º. Wädenswil 1A and 2A clones. 20-year-old vines. 15% whole cluster fermented. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40% new and 60% once-used. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. This wine benefited greatly from air exposure, showing considerably better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Initially the nose offered primary oak scents but more fruit emerged the next day. The mid weight core of black cherry fruit, cola and spice flavors were juicy and appealing as was the soft texture, but the oak intrusion over rode the bright fruit expression. The following day the oak overlay had lessened and the fruit had come forward with noticeable improvement. I am not sure where this wine will go, but it seems to definitely need more time in bottle to shed the barrel adjunct. Score: 88-89



COBB Wines, Cazadero

The wines reviewed here continue the pattern of excellence from Ross Cobb’s Sonoma Coast offerings. Picked relatively early, using an appropriate amount of whole clusters, and employing a lengthy elevage, the wines are highly aromatic and have an appealing elegance and complexity that makes for a distinguishable “COBB style.” Ross Cobb notes, “I think my wines can seem counterintuitive to some people, or at least run counter to their expectations. People see alcohol levels of 12.5% or 13.0% and they have a certain set of expectations. Then they taste the wines and discover their aromatic power, depth of mouthfeel and intensity of spice. There is an idea out there that something has to be sacrificed to make a great lower alcohol Pinot Noir. I have never believed that.” The three wines reviewed here underwent at least 22 months of barrel aging. Ross addresses this choice by saying, “People might assume that we do so to increase the oak signature, but that’s not the goal. In addition to using just 30% to 35% new oak for these wines, our barrels have very light toast levels. Perhaps even more important, the barrels are very tightly grained. The tighter the grain, the slower the oak extraction, and the subtler the overall influence. We age longer in barrel because it gives our wines greater integration upon release. This allows the wines to fully show the layered complexity of their sites.” A Chardonnay from Mariani Vineyard was introduced with the 2013 vintage. The wines are highly allocated through a mailing list at www.cobbwines.com.

2013 COBB Jack Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.8% alc., 200 cases, $75. From a 2-acre hillside vineyard near Occidental in western Sonoma County. A very cold site surrounded by dense oak and Douglas Fir trees. Three Dijon clones planted in Goldridge sandy loam. 30% whole cluster fermented. Aged 30 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is to die for with uplifting aromas of cherry, rose petal, spice and pine bark. Light to mid weighted flavors of red cherry and red berries with added notes of green herbs, iron and subtle tar. Quite elegant, with silken tannins and a suave, cherry-fueled finish. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the nose was still spectacular with more fruit expression. Score: 91

2013 COBB Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.5% alc., 450 cases, $70. From a 6-acre vineyard near Sebastopol in western Sonoma County. Dijon and Swan clones planted in Goldridge sandy loam. Aged 22 months in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Often my favorite COBB bottling, this wine has a glorious nose featuring cherry, rose petal, baking spice and dark chocolate aromas. Elegant and suave, with exquisite balance, this mid weight beauty flaunts its delicious essence of fresh cherries with enticing accents of spices including cinnamon. Very easy to drink now with seamless oak integration and a glorious finish of more than respectable length. Score: 94

2013 COBB Diane Cobb: Coastlands Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., 275 cases, $85. A half acre was planted Coastlands Vineyard to over 20 varieties of Pinot Noir in 1989. The dry farmed block was later expanded to 1.5 acres with a single selection Diane Cobb believed was the best performer in the original trial block. This bottling is a co-fermentation of the nursery Pinot Noir clones and commemorates Diane Cobb who passed away in 2006. Aged 22 months in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, baking spices, red hots and beef lead to a light to a mid weighted style offering fruit flavors of cherry and strawberry along with whole cluster savoriness. The wine has structured but elusive tannins and a vibrancy that appeals. The intense finish seems to return in waves and rises noticeably above the other 2013 COBB Pinot Noirs reviewed here. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, I noted, “It is hard to believe so much flavor and nuance originates from such a lightly colored wine. This is a perfect example of the glory of Pinot Noir.” Even beyond the great finish, this wine has something special that is indescribable. Score: 95



Dehlinger Winery, Sebastopol

Dehlinger is a Russian River Valley iconic winery founded by Tom Dehlinger in 1975 on Vine Hill Road before the Russian River Valley appellation had been established. The second generation, Eva (general manager and winemaker) and Carmen (sales manager), are now the face of the winery. Eva joined the winery in 2007 after studying Earth Sciences Management at Stanford and spent a year studying viticulture and terroir at the masters level at the University of Burgundy in Dijon, France. Pinot Noir was planted in the Estate Vineyard between 1975 and 2011 with primarily Pommard and Swan, with smaller amounts of Martini, Dijon 943 and Calera. Pinot Noir bottlings include Goldridge, Altamont, and in special vintages, High Plains and Octagon. Tasting by appointment is currently suspended as the coordinator is on pregnancy leave. Visit www.dehlingerwinery.com.

2013 Dehlinger Altamont Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., $70. This wine comes from the hilltop sections of the Dehlinger Estate Vineyard where Altamont soil predominates. The wines generally show darker fruit flavors and aromas of baking spices. A small percentage of whole cluster is included. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. This wine is lush with flavor in the typical Dehlinger style, but has laser-like clarity and balance. The nose leads with aromas of Bing cherries, sous-bois, baking spices and oak cask. Soft in the mouth, with luscious flavors of black cherry and boysenberry framed by cashmere tannins. There is a deft sprinkling of oak in the background and a finish bright with cherry flavor. This wine was significantly better two days later from a previously opened and re-corked bottle which predicts age ability. Score: 92

2012 Dehlinger Goldridge Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., $55. This wine comes from deeper Goldridge soils in the Estate Vineyard and tends to have more approachability. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Regal aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and rose petal lead to a mid weight plus styled wine with a delicious core of black cherry fruit that is supported by silky tannins and balanced acidity. A thread of toasty oak plays in the background. This wine has gorgeous balance and generous amounts of black cherry and blackberry fruit haunting the uplifting peacock tail finale. Score: 94

2012 Dehlinger High Plains Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., $75. From the top sections of the Dehlinger Estate Vineyard, only produced in special vintages. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Delicate aromas of cherries, baking spices and sandalwood lead off. Very elegant, but highly flavorful, with a delicious core of bright cherry and red berry fruits with a bit of sauvage. The tannins are well matched in this mid weight styled wine and the finish has pleasing persistence. Score: 92



Domaine Della, Santa Rosa

Proprietor and winemaker David W. Hejl launched DELLA wines with fellow founders and subsequently changed the name to Domaine Della. Heijl is a former CEO and GM of Kosta Browne Winery who began crafting Pinot Noir in 2010. The winery’s Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays are released in the spring and fall to active mailing list members. Visit the website, www.domainedella.com.

2014 Domaine Della Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.44, TA 0.59, 250 cases, $60. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 47% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Considerable swirling is needed to coax the demure aromas of black cherry, red berry, underbrush and roasted nuts to the forefront. More enjoyable on the palate, with a mid weight plus charge of black cherry and black raspberry fruits accented with baking spices. Suave in texture with balanced tannins and some length on the finish that leaves a slight sense of alcoholic warmth in its wake. Although the chemistry of this wine would indicate comparable acidity to the Sonoma Coast bottling, this wine does not have the same vibrancy. Score: 89

2014 Domaine Della Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.51, TA 0.59, 150 cases, $60. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 47% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Black cherry and pomegranate aromas lead off with some nutty oak in the background. Silky on the palate with a serenade of cherry and pomegranate fruit flavors. Beautifully balanced, with inviting crisp acidity driving a pleasurable vibrancy and offering a juicy finish that has some staying power. Score: 91



Dutton Estate Winery, Sebastopol

Vineyard-designated Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc from Dutton Ranch estate vineyards in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations. Dutton Estate Winery was established in 1995 by Tracy and Joe Dutton. Joe is co-owner of the Dutton Ranch that dates to 1964 and today encompasses over 80 vineyards spread over 1,300 acres of vineyards. The Duttons sell grapes to about sixty different wineries with many of them using the respected Dutton Ranch designation. Visit www.duttonestate.com.

2014 Dutton Estate Manzana Vineyard-Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.45, TA 0.62, 201 cases, $56. Vineyard is located in the heart of the Green Valley. Clones “828,” and 115 planted in 2001. Goldridge sandy loam soils. 100% de-stemmed, cold soak, open top fermentation, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. A selection of the best barrels from the Manzana lot. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens slowly in the glass to reveal aromas of black cherry, dark red rose and forest floor. The cherry and raspberry fruits attract attention on the attack and the ever expanding flavors are very satisfying. The fine-grain texture is of interest, there is a good underlying cut of acidity, and the finish is replete with generous fruit as well as blessed with lengthy intentions. Score: 92

2014 Dutton Estate Jewell Block Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.87, TA 0.49, 143 cases, $53. Vineyard is located in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley. The site was formerly home to Gravenstein apples and contains Goldridge sandy loam soils. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 66% new. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Uplifting and persistent aromas of cherries and strawberries lead to a well-spiced palate of red cherry fruit framed by gentle fine-grain tannins. Soft and satiny in texture with an elegant demeanor, making for a very easy friendship. Spice up your life. Score: 90

2014 Dutton Estate Thomas Road Vineyard-Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.56, 148 cases, $56. Vineyard is located in the northeastern part of the Green Valley of Russian River Valley. Planted to Dijon 115 in 1997. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 36% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of muddled cherries, earth, iron and a persistent, but subtle scent of acetic acid. Impressive attack of well-spiced black cherry fruit with notable mid palate presence, finishing with appealing juiciness. Slightly more dense and firmly tannic than the other 2014 Pinot Noirs reviewed here, with a gamey, sauvage edge, but still sleek and refreshing. Score: 89

2014 Dutton Estate La Familia-Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.52, 95 cases, $60. Sourced from Kozlowski Family Vineyard located in the heart of Green Valley of Russian River Valley. Vineyard was planted to Pommard clone in 1998 in Goldridge sandy loam soil. 100% destemmed, 5-day cold soak, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Regal aromas of fresh black cherry pie, nutmeg and herbs. Delicious charge of seductive cherry and raspberry fruits in a mid weight style with impressive palate fullness and overreaching length. Wonderful harmony and a baby’s bottom texture. A beguiling wine that is quite friendly in the mouth. Score: 93

2013 Dutton Estate Karmen-Isabella-Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., pH 3.49, TA 0.59, 1,186 cases, $44. A selection of the Dutton’s favorite three vineyards (Manzana, Marty’s and Thomas Road) with the goal of producing a vision of the Russian River Valley. The wine is named after the Dutton’s youngest daughter and is a blend of reserve barrels. Clones “828,” 777 and 115.100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of red cherry rose petal and underbrush. Vibrant, with good acidity, offering a mid weight melange of dark red cherry and berry flavors shadowed by toasty oak. The supportive tannins are finely honed, and there is some staying power on the enjoyable finish. Score: 89



Furthermore Wines, Graton

This winery is quite a success story. It began modestly in 2006 when two lifelong friends and partners began producing single vineyard Pinot Noir at Crushpad, later shifting production to a San Francisco urban winery. In 2011, the first estate vineyard, Nevina’s Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast, was added. In January 2016, Graton Ridge Cellars estate vineyard, winery, label and tasting room were acquired and Erica Stancliff was hired as head winemaker. She is the winemaker also for her own Trombetta Family Wines label and has had winemaking experience at Paul Hobbs CrossBarn, Rudd and Viña Cobos. Small lot single vineyard Pinot Noirs are offered from coastal vineyards as far south as Santa Barbara County and as far north as Mendocino County. Visit www.furthermorewines.com.

2014 Furthermore Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., 328 cases, $N/A. · Light cherry red in color with a slight haze (unfiltered). The nose is perfumed with aromas of cherry, rose petal, pine sap and sandalwood. Light in weight, with flavors of well-spiced cherry and raspberry framed by suave tannins. Elegant, like cherries draped in a lacy evening gown. Forward drinking and enjoyable. Score: 89

2013 Furthermore Nevina’s Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.73, 150 cases, $60. Clone 777. Harvest Brix 24.2º. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Deep, penetrating aromas of darker cherries and darker red berries along with the scent of rose petal and woodlands. The palate seems whole cluster inspired with flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, plum and spice, with hints of vanilla and root beer. Impressive attack and mid palate presence with streamlined tannins and a juicy demeanor, finishing with pizzazz. Noticeably better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 94

2013 Furthermore Gloria Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.61, 181 cases, $45. Calera, Swan and Pommard clones. Harvest Brix 25.4º. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderate light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is alive with scents of black cherry and sous-bois. Polished, elegant and charming, with mid weight flavors of black cherry, plum, anise and spice. Seamless with some finishing length. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 92

2013 Furthermore Keefer Ranch Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.62, 204 cases, $55. Harvest Brix 24.7º. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Delicate aromas of cherry, dried herbs and sandalwood. Plush, suave and easy to cozy up to, with a core of bright cherry fruit encased in soft tannins. The finish is remarkable for its lengthy trail of spiced cherry. Great vineyards always show up. Score: 92



Additional 2013 bottlings from outside Sonoma County

2013 Furthermore La Encantada Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.51, 126 cases, $45. Clones 667 and 777. Harvest Brix 26.8º. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A well-crafted wine that offers uplifting aromas of black cherry, spice and scrub brush. The blackberry and black raspberry fruits lean to the riper side with even a subtle note of black raisin creeping in. Oak contributes a coffee and dark chocolate note. The tannins are well-proportioned and there is enough acidity to compliment the fruit load. The slightest sense of alcoholic warmth shows up on the finish. Score: 90

2013 Furthermore Sierra Mar Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.60, 133 cases, $55. Pisoni and “828” clones. Harvest Brix 28.0º. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Earth-kissed aromas of blackberry jam lead to a delicious melange of luscious black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors with a welcome hint of spice and oak. Nicely balanced, with a lengthy finish that had good cut. The most richly endowed wine in the 2013 lineup. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the nose had really blossomed and the texture had become quite soft and sexy. Score: 93



Kosta Browne, Sebastopol

Founded by Dan Kosta, winemaker Michael Browne and co-owner Chris Costello, this is one of the most recognizable names in California Pinot Noir, having earned considerable praise from the wine press and consumer for over fifteen years. A magnificent winery is located in The Barlow complex in Sebastopol, a testament to the winery’s success. The wines are sold through an allocated mailing list at www.kostabrowne.com. The winery is not open to the public. The three 2014 appellation blends reviewed here are spring 2016 offerings (along with the One Sixteen Russian River Chardonnay reviewed elsewhere). Like other Sonoma County Pinot Noirs from the 2014 vintage reviewed here, the wines are still relatively tight and need time to open in the glass, and are even more open the following day from a previously opened bottle. Kosta Browne recommends cellaring their Pinot Noirs for 2 to 3 years after release or decanting ahead of time if you wish to try them sooner. There is very little to differentiate these big, fruity wines.

2014 Kosta Browne Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.59, $68. Sourced from a variety of vineyards including Jenkins, Keefer Estate, Koplen, Martinelli Moonshine and Martinelli Zio Tony. 5- day cold soak, fermented in 5-ton open tops including wood and concrete, 14-day average ferment, 2% whole cluster. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Engaging aromas of black cherry, cola and oak spice. Fullbodied on the palate with a packed mouth of black cherry and black raspberry fruit flavors. Sappy and luscious, with firm but balanced tannins and minimal oak presence. Much better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, showing aromas of Bing cherry, cola, spice and red hard candy and echoing flavors of satisfying brightness. Score: 90

2014 Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.59, $68. Sourced from a variety of vineyards including Gap’s Crown, Goldrock, Griffin’s Lair, Kanzler, Klopp and Walala. Fermented in 5-ton open tops, 5-day cold soak, 14-day average ferment, 7% whole cluster. Some lots 100% concrete aged, with remainder aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 55% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The most expressive nose of the three 2014 appellation wines, sporting aromas of black cherry, dark berries, spice and caramel. Robust and virile, featuring an array of purple and black fruits framed by firm, svelte tannins, finishing with a bright, generous fruitiness. Score: 90

2014 Kosta Browne Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.59, $68. Sourced from Garys’, Pisoni, Rosella’s, Sierra Mar and Soberanes vineyards. 5-day cold soak, fermented in 5-ton open tops including wood, 14-day average ferment, 2% whole cluster, Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 49% new. · Dark reddish purple color in the glass. A jammy wine with aromas and flavors of black fruits, cassis, anise and Oolong tea. Bulky and fruit-driven, yet balanced, with a silky mouthfeel. More enjoyable the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Perfectly fine, but no real appellation identity. Score: 89



MacRostie Winery & Vineyards, Healdsburg

Founder Steve MacRostie and winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen craft small-lot, vineyard-driven Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from superb Sonoma County vineyard sources. Steve’s 42-year career has allowed him to develop close relationships with some of Sonoma County’s finest growers including Kent Ritchie, the Duttons, Sangiacomos, Martinellis, Bacigalupis and Klopps. In recent years, Steve and Heidi have re-imagined the winery’s Pinot Noir program, including building a new small-lot Pinot Noir winery where they can do upwards of 70 small fermentations in each vintage. Only wines that deserve vineyard-designation are chosen through blind tasting. The winery’s new tasting room on Westside Road is open daily. Visit www.macrostiewinery.com.

2013 MacRostie Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 396 cases, $42, screwcap. Sourced from several vineyards include the winery’s Thale’s Vineyard as well as Flax, Tina Maria, and Widdoes Ranch. Harvest Brix varied from 24.9º to 26.2º on four separate days. 100% de-stemmed into 1-ton fermenters. Aged in French oak barrels, 25% new, 40% one-year-old, and the rest neutral. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, sandalwood, nutty oak and discrete spices. Forward drinking and balanced, with mid weight flavors of black cherry and strawberry framed by modest tannins. A solid everyday drinker and an admirable example of the Russian River Valley appellation. Score: 88

2013 MacRostie Goldrock Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 428 cases, $56, screwcap. This vineyard is located a few miles from the Pacific Ocean near the town of Annapolis in the far western Sonoma Coast. Clones 777 and “828” are planted in Goldridge sandy loam soils at an elevation of 780 feet above the fog layer. 100% de-stemmed, 3-day cold soak, inoculated yeast strains, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. This wine is nicely endowed with aromas and flavors of red cherry, strawberry, baking spices, blonde caramel and roasted nuts. Light to mid weighted, with gentle tannins, admirable elegance and plenty of Pinot personality. Score: 91

2013 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 887 cases, $50, screwcap. This is an estate vineyard owned by Steve MacRostie and his partners Nancy and Tony Lilly located on a fog-shrouded mountaintop. Clones 115 and Pommard. 100% de-stemmed into small open-top fermenters, 3-day cold soak, inoculated yeast strains, aged 12 months in French oak barrels, 43% new. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. The aromas of red cherry, baking spice and sandalwood draw you into the glass. This wine delivers more flavor than the light color would suggest. There is a earthy and feral side to the black cherry fruit, herb and mushroom flavors. The mid palate fullness is pleasant, the tannins are well-matched, and the wine finishes in classy style with panache. Score: 92



Migration, Philo

Duckhorn Wine Company’s Migration brand debuted in vintage 2001 with an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. In 2008, Migration produced its first Chardonnay in Duckhorn Wine Company’s 30-year history. Beginning in 2011, Migration also began making a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and more recently added a Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, a Bien Nacido Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir and a Goldrock Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. The winemaker is cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist Bo Felton. The wines are widely distribution in retail establishments (see website). Visit www.migrationwines.com.

2013 Migration Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.78, TA 0.46, 300 cases, $68. Harvest Brix 24.5º. Sourced from Dutton-Manzana and Dutton-Thomas Road vineyards located in the cool Green Valley of Russian River Valley. A mix of clones. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of crushed red cherries, cake spice and nutty oak lead off. Suave and inviting, with a middleweight charge of cherry fruit accented with a deft note of oak. Forward-drinking, with silky tannins, and a noticeable acidity-fueled freshness. My only nit is a bit of alcoholic warmth shows up on the finish. Score: 90

2013 Migration Goldrock Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.67, TA 0.52, 300 cases, $68. Harvest Brix 25.0º. This vineyard is a few miles from the Pacific Ocean at an elevation of about 600 feet. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasing aromas of blackberry, woodland and nutty oak. Engaging flavors of blueberry, black raspberry and blackberry in a mid weight style that sports noticeable but not weighty tannins. The overall impression is one of great harmony and polish and a memorable spiced berry and plum flavored finish. Tasted eight hours later from a previously opened and recorked bottle, the wine had come together even more beautifully and offered an arsenal of Pinot joy. Score: 93



Patz & Hall, Sonoma

The big news at this winery is that it was bought by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in mid-April 2016. The sale included the inventory of wines and interests in the winemaking facility and visitor’s center in Sonoma. The wines will still be made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards in the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and Carneros. All four of the founding partners including winemaker James Hall will remain with the winery to ensure continuity. The wines are largely sold through the website, a mailing list and the visitor center (“Sonoma House”) which is open daily for drop-ins and appointments. The single vineyard Pinot Noirs reviewed here from the 2014 vintage are extracted, structured and brooding and will benefit from more time in bottle. Visit www.patzandhall.com.

2014 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $46. A consistent performer in each vintage sourced from several vineyards including Dutton Ranch, Martinelli Family, and Chenoweth Vineyard. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The initial aromas of underbrush, earthy flora and smoke give way to dark fruit scents over time in the glass. Silky on the palate, with a discreetly concentrated core of earthy black cherry and blueberry-pomegranate flavors sprinkled with complimentary oak. The wine is endowed with juicy acidity and a sweet cherry finish that has a slight sense of alcoholic warmth. Score: 89

2014 Patz & Hall Jenkins Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 1,342 cases, $60. This 18-acre vineyard source is located in Sebastopol. Clones 667 and 777 are planted in Goldridge sandy loam. Aged in about 60% new French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black raspberry, spice, game and nutty barrel lead off. Aggressive attack of black raspberry and ollaliberry fruit flavors with an infusion of oak. Ripe, firm tannins, with a finish fueled with black grape aromatic essence. A slight sense of alcohol heat shows up at the end. A young wine that was unchanged the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 89-90

2014 Patz & Hall Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 1,075 cases, $70. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Oak is at the forefront of this wine with very little fruit showing up on the nose. The mid weight core of black cherry and black raspberry fruit is buried in aggressive tannins and oak char. The barrel treatment has created a drying taste and the finish leaves you thinking of nothing but oak. Score: 86

2013 Patz & Hall Sonoma County Barrel Auction Lot #47 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 20 cases. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas and flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and pie spices are encased in muscular tannins that create an astringent finish. A full mouthful of engaging fruit that is somewhat negated by daunting fruit tannins. This wine will undoubtedly benefit from further time in the cellar. Score: 89



Reuling Vineyard, Forestville

A special vineyard site that is farmed using organic practices and biodynamic principles. Winemaker Matt Taylor, formerly winemaker and vineyard manager at Araujo Estate Wines, first developed his love for Pinot Noir working at Joseph Swan Vineyards in 2000. The vineyard was acquired by the Reulings in 1998 and initially supplied grapes to Mark Aubert and Peter Michael. The first vintage under the Reuling Vineyard label was 2011 and in 2014 a Chardonnay was added. The 12.2 acres contain three Pinot Noir clones: Calera and two different “suitcase” clones from Vosne-Romanee. There are also 2.2 acres of Chardonnay from Montrachet selections. Tasting is available by appointment to visit the Reuling’s home and vineyard. Visit www.reulingvineyard.com. A Pinot Noir clonal collection (only 200 produced) was offered from the 2013 vintage. The wines are sold primarily through a mailing list.

2014 Reuling Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.85, 475 cases, TA 0.56, $70. Harvest Brix 23.9º-24.9º. Reuling clone ‘L’ 60% whole cluster, Calera clone 30% whole cluster and Reuling clone ‘R’ 10% whole cluster. Native yeasts. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 30% new and 70% used. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. This wine was evaluated over a day’s time, requiring the additional time to achieve expression. Welcoming aromas of black cherry, dried rose petal, spice, toasted hazelnuts, and sandalwood. Impressive attack and finishing intensity of black cherry cola flavor with hints of spice and toast. A sophisticated wine with well-managed fine grain tannins and the structure and balance to satisfy for years to come. The finish is striking in length. This wine is only hinting at its full potential now and deserves more time in bottle. Score: 92-93



More Sonoma County Wines

2013 Anaba Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.65, TA 0.59, 1,705 cases, $36. Sourced from multiple vineyards. Clones 114, 115, Pommard, 667, 777 and Swan. Harvest Brix 23.9º. 100% de-stemmed, 6- day cold soak, basket pressed, aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 36% new. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Clean aromas of cherry, rhubarb, spice and seasoned oak lead to a middleweight core of earthy black cherry and black raspberry fruit flavors with a cola accent. The silky mouthfeel appeals and the tannins are tucked in, in this simple but pleasant wine. Score: 88

2013 Anaba Las Brisas Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.60, 249 cases, $38. Swan clone. Harvest brix 24.2º. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, basket pressed, aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. I like this wine for its vibrancy and infusion of fresh cherry aromas and flavors. There is a complimentary overlay of oak, the tannins are balanced, and the finish is noticeably generous with cherry goodness. Score: 89

2013 Anaba Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc.., pH 3.62, TA 0.60, 262 cases, $46. Clones 115 and Pommard. Harvest Brix 24.1º. 15% whole cluster, 6-day cold soak, native fermentation, basket pressed, aged 11 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Clearly a step up in quality, with enticing aromas of black cherry, rose petal and cake spices and a mid weight plus nucleus of perfectly ripened black cherry and blackberry fruits nicely highlighted by spice. Silky and polished, with admirable balance and welcome length on the expansive finish. Score: 91

2014 Anthill Farms Campbell Ranch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., $52. Sourced from a vineyard near Annapolis situated above the Pacific Coast at the fog line at 750 feet elevation farmed with owner Steve Campbell. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is both savory and fruity, offering a mix of earthy flora, stem and rose petal aromas, as well as aromas of blue and black berries. A bit closed at this stage, but giving enough flavors of blueberry, pomegranate and black raspberry to satisfy. Elegant, with frisky acidity, like able polish and balance, and an appealing feral quality. Score: 91

2013 Attune Sonoma County Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 330 cases, $48. Sourced from an estate sustainably farmed 8.5-acre vineyard in Sonoma Carneros.The vineyard is planted with two Burgundian selections and Dijon clones 667 and 777. The winemaker is Kenneth Juhasz. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 60% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of blackberry jam, cassis, bittersweet chocolate, vanilla and prune. A husky, mid weight plus wine with a core of very ripe black raspberry and blackberry fruit flavors with a hint of prune. Notes of oak-driven dark cocoa and malt are contributory. The mouthfeel is very plush and velvety and the ruddy tannins are slightly drying. A wine fashioned in the popular “Meiomi style.” Score: 87

2015 Cosa Obra Sonoma County Rosé of Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.44, TA 0.64, $18.100% Pommard clone from Sangiacomo Vineyard in Los Carneros. A saignée, fermented in neutral oak barrels. · Moderate pinkish orange color in the glass. A well composed wine with aromas of orange water, cranberry and dried herbs. Flavorful, with tastes of blood orange, strawberry, watermelon and herbs in a seamless style with integrated, bright acidity and trace tannins. The juicy finish has some length which is unusual for a rosé. Score: 89

2014 Cosa Obra Sonoma County Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.9, TA 0.54, $29. Fruit sourcedfrom Sangiacomo Vineyard in southern Sonoma (Los Carneros). 100% Pommard clone. 100% de-stemmed, 5 to 7-day cold soak extended maceration from 3 to 4 weeks. Aged 9 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Seductive scents of ripe Bing cherries, forest path and clove. Forward drinking and enticing with mid weight flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cola, spice and tobacco. The tannins are harmoniously supportive and the silky texture is tres Pinot. Score: 91

2014 Gehricke Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 948 cases, $45. Produced and bottled by The Other Guys in Sonoma. August Sebastiano is the proprietor and Kendrick Coakley is the winemaker. Aged 9 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of Bing cherry, cranberry relish and sandalwood. A mid-weight styled wine with an oak-kissed cherry core that has a confected tone. True to its Russian River Valley roots with caressing tannins and a sweet cherry finish. Score: 88

2014 Gehricke Los Carneros Sonoma Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 1,556 cases, $39. Small lot fermentations, aged 9 months in French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose exudes aromas of earth, mushroom, cigar, cherry, raspberry and cake spice. Modest in weight, with a black cherry and blackberry fruits theme overlain with generous tarry oak. The modest tannins make for easy drinking, but the oak is unduly intrusive, at least at this early stage. Score: 86

2014 Gracianna Estate Mercedes River Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

15.4% alc., 191 cases, $64. The winery’s estate vineyard, Mercedes Motherblock, is planted to clone 115. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of darkest cherry, blackberry syrup and a hint of volatile acidity. Mid weight plus flavors of blackberry, cassis, sauvage, char and brine in a rich, sappy and ultra ripe style with tucked-in alcohol, but noticeable tannins and oak overlay. Score: 85

2014 Gracianna Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

15.2% alc., 437 cases, $52. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Welcoming aromas of Bing cherry, pomegranate and sandalwood. Mid weight flavors of muddled cherry and black raspberry coulis with anise-laced oak in the background. Easy to cozy up to, with fine-grain tannins and a generous charge of aromatic cherry on the finish. Score: 88

2014 Lombardi Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.573, 125 cases, $42. Sourced from Sonoma Stage, Spring Hill and Terra de Promissio vineyards. Clones are Calera, Pommard, 667 and 777. Barrel fermented in neutral French oak and aged 16 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The brooding nose offers very ripe fruits including black cherry with a note of wine cave and a hint of volatile acidity. Mid weight in style, with sweet black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors accented with spice and lacy oak. The wine finishes with a puckering, sweet and sour finish indicating possible acidulation. Score: 86

2013 O’Connor Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 352 cases, $35. Newly designed label, new vineyard manager, and new winemaker Ron Johnson. Pommard and 115 from 3.5- acre vineyard in Sebastopol. Harvest Brix 24.9º. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Lovely aromas of Bing cherry, baking and wood spices and sandalwood.The cherry cola essence charges out of the bottle initially in a light to mid weight style wine that is fresh and juicy. There is noticeable but not imposing oak infusion and the gentle tannins in the background provide adequate structure. This wine has a classic Russian River Valley profile in a more feminine style. Score: 90

2014 Valerie’s Vineyard One Acre Carneros Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 62 cases, $40. 12th vintage crafted by winemaker Jeff McBridge. Vineyard farming is guided by Phil Coturri. Produced and bottled at Benziger Family Winery. Aged 18 months in new and 2-year-old French oak barrels. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of darker cherry, dried herbs and floral bouquet lead to a middleweight core of confected cherry and raspberry fruits accented with cola and brioche notes. Sleek, with harmonious tannins and inviting cherry fruit intensity on the finish. Score: 88

2013 Wild Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.45, TA 0.57, 3,153 cases, $50. This offering is part of the Jackson Family Wines’ West Burgundy Wine Collective that is a small estate-based portfolio of site-driven Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from top West Coast appellations. Vineyard is located very close to Annapolis at 900 feet elevation. Goldridge soils, marine air influence and surrounding forest. This wine is 100% estate grown at the Annapolis vineyard located in the extreme western reaches of the Sonoma Coast AVA. 700 to 900 foot elevation, three miles from Pacific Ocean on top of the third ridge inland surrounded by coastal Redwoods, with Goldridge sand loam soils. Clones are Pommard 5, 115, 667 and 777. 100% de-stemmed, 3 to 4-day cold soak, inoculated with cultured yeast, fermented in open-top tanks, free-run wine aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose reminds of a walk along a forest trail in the morning, with added aromas of blackberry and black cherry. A mid weight plus styled wine with plenty of blueberry-pomegranate and spice flavors to satisfy. The angular tannins are nicely balanced, oak provides a complimentary touch, and the wine finishes with some persistent blueberry goodness. The wine is a bit rustic and wild, but that adds to its appeal. Score: 90


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