PinotFile: 9.43 July 19, 2014
- Sips of Recently Tasted California Pinot Noir & Chardonnay & Outliers
- Recent California Winery Visits & Tastings
- Bacigalupi Family 50th Anniversary Celebration & 3rd Anniversary Vineyard Designate Tasting
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Sips of Recently Tasted California Pinot Noir & Chardonnay & Outliers
I prefer not to simply list wine reviews without including context since wine reviews by themselves
don’t tell the whole story. However, lately, I have been inundated with wines to review, and have had
a heavy wine region and wine event travel schedule. For that reason, this issue will be devoted to
reviews only and the quality of the wines will have to speak for themselves. I have in the past written
extensively about practically every producer whose wines are included here, so refer to the Winery
Directory for more background information. Anderson Valley wines will be reviewed in the next issue
which includes highlights from the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival.
2012 Banshee Marine Layer Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., 200 cases, $50. A blend of the
best Sonoma Coast vineyard sources including Coastlands, Rice-Spivak, Hellenthal, Emmaline and
Jack Hill. Winemaking consultant is Ross Cobb. Aged 15 months in 10% new French oak.
·
Moderate
reddish purple hue in the glass. Aromas of black cherry and coffee-scented oak. Satisfying mid
weight core of dark red cherry and raspberry fruit with some finishing length. Impressive balance and
harmony with good integration of oak and juicy acidity.
Score: 89
2013 Bonny Doon Vineyard Central Coast Vin Gris De Cigare
13.0% alc., $12, screwcap. The
pink analog of Le Cigare Volant. A blend of red and white Rhone varieties.
·
Light orange coral color in
the glass. Aromas and flavors of strawberry, raspberry, peach and melon in a clean, crisp and dry
style which is tasty and satisfying. This wine does what a Rosé should do: refresh
Score: 88
Brick & mortar was established in 2011 in Napa Valley by friends Jordan Rasmussen,
Matt Iaconis and Edward Brown under the MSix Wine Group LLC Company title. Matt
Iaconis is the winemaker. This was my first exposure to the wines which were
excellent.
2011 brick & mortar Napa Valley Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., 84
cases, $44. Released on Oct 1, 2013. Extended cold maceration
until native yeast began a spontaneous fermentation in open-top
barrels. Some whole cluster. Aged 20 months in once-used
French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately
light garnet color in the glass. Large scale aromas of cherry glaze
with a compliment of smoky oak. Delicious core of spiced black
cherries with a hint of clove and cola. Broad in the mouth and
nicely balanced with suave tannins, integrated acidity, and a
polished, aristocratic mouth feel.
Score: 92
2012 brick & mortar Napa Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc., 128 cases, $38. Released from MSix
Wines on October 1, 2013. Whole cluster pressed, aged in 25% new French oak barrels in natural caves dug deep into the hills in Napa Valley. Primary and secondary fermentations lasted upwards of
4 months. Lightly fined and filtered.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Subdued, but
pleasant aromas of lemon tart, pastry cream and nutty oak. Nicely composed with charming flavors of
lemon, peach and pear with a kiss of oak. Silky in the mouth, with lingering fruit presence on the
uplifting finish.
Score: 90
Brooks Note is a Marin-based winery focusing on Pinot Noir. Winemaker Garry Brooks
and his spouse Joanne, planted a small vineyard in Sonoma in 2002. Both were
working in technology, but it soon became evident that their passion was with grapes.
In 2004, Garry left the lucrative world of technology to pursue his dream of making
wine. He worked part time at Ravenswood while earning a degree in viticulture and
enology from University of California at Davis. He made his first Pinot Noir at Acacia in
2007 and later moved on to Kosta Browne, working with Michael Browne and Shane
Finley for two years. He then joined Dutton-Goldfield as assistant winemaker working
under Dan Goldfield. Dan introduced him to the unique vineyards of Marin County.
Garry and Joanne launched their commercial label in 2011. Visit www.brooks-notewinery.
myshopify.com to join the mailing list.
2013 Brooks Note North Coast Rosé of Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $20. 59% Marin County
and 41% Yorkville Highlands fruit.
·
Moderately deep pinkish orange color in the glass. Shy
aromas of red berries, stone fruits and dried herbs. The wine comes alive on the palate
with bright flavors of herb-dusted strawberry and raspberry. Substantial body and
impressive finishing length for a Rosé. This wine will stand up to hearty foods.
Score: 89
2012 Brooks Note Marin County Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 150 cases, $36.
·
Moderately
dark reddish purple color in the glass. Voluptuous nose of black cherry, black raspberry and
Mediterranean spices. Light on its feet but highly flavorful, featuring a core of blueberry,
dark cherry and raspberry fruits with an undertone of oak and spice. Discreetly plush on the
sustained palate with a mighty finish. The spice component of this wine is most striking.
Score: 92
2012 Brooks Note Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 150 cases, $44.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. Soaring perfume of dark
raspberry, blackberry and earthy flora. Striking attack of
blackberry, cassis and black currant fruits that are mouth
filling and finish with chewy concentration. An earthy
undertone adds interest. Very sleek with harmonious tannins. This
wine has the balance to age beautifully and will benefit from
additional patience.
Score: 94
2012 Byron Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.46, TA 0.56, 9,919 cases, $29. Fruit
primarily from the estate Nielson Vineyard (both old and newer vines) with a smaller amount from the
Sta. Rita Hills. Aged 16 months in 18% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color
in the glass. The nose attracts with aromas of spiced strawberry and raspberry, violets and vanillin
oak. There is plenty of luscious spiced berry and plum fruit but it is somewhat overwhelmed by oakdriven
notes of vanilla and dark chocolate. Easy to drink with submerged tannins, finishing a bit
shallow and short.
Score: 86
2012 Byron Nielson Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $36. Released November
2013. Clones 114, 667 and Pommard from Santa Barbara’s first commercial vineyard. Aged 11
months in 35% new French oak.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. A dark-fruited wine with
aromas and flavors of plum, black currant and blackberry with an earthy and brown spice
underpinning. Mid to full-bodied, with hints of grilled mushroom and dried herbs, and plenty of oak
overlay. Velvety on the palate with good finishing intensity.
Score: 89
2012 Castalia Rochioli Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $53. Another
in a long string of impressive wines by Terry Bering, the long time cellar master at Rochioli
Vineyards.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A beautifully composed wine with
enticing aromas of Bing cherry and spice echoed on the palate with added notes of blackberry,
cola and loamy earth. Well-structured, but not imposing tannins, generous, layered
concentration and an endlessly long finish. Still very young (Castalia Pinot Noirs typically need
a year in bottle for full expression), but a quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.
Score: 94
2011 COBB Emmaline Ann Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.8% alc., 96 cases, $75. This 3-
acre vineyard is near the town of Occidental. Dijon clones are planted in Goldridge soil on a southfacing
slope.
·
Light garnet color in the glass. A savory nose featuring aromas of cherry, herbs, pine
tree and forest floor. Very light dark red cherry flavor with a modest oak touch. Supple tannins and
bright acidity, but very lean on the attack and finish. Seems to be from vines that struggled to ripen in
this vintage.
Score: 87
2011 COBB Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.9% alc., 192 cases, $70. From a
6-acre vineyard near Sebastopol. Dijon clones and a Swan selection are planted in Goldridge sandy
loam laced with volcanic ash on a northeastern-facing slope.
·
Light garnet color in the glass. Enticing
aromas of red cherries, mocha, spice and toast. An ephemeral, feminine wine with demure flavors of
red cherry, strawberry, raspberry, red licorice and subtle oak. Bright and refreshing with a surprisingly
robust and satisfying finish.
Score: 90
2011 COBB Coastlands Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., 170 cases, $80. Sourced
from a 14-acre vineyard near the town of Occidental containing a variety of selections, several
rootstocks and a complex soil mix.
·
Moderately light garnet color in the glass. I love the nose that is
redolent of fresh cherries and baking spices. The light to mid weight red cherry and berry core is
accented by savory herbs. A slight green thread runs through the background. Has a little more
stuffing than the Rice-Spivak and a little more intensity on the tart, red cherry finish.
Score: 91
2011 Comptche Ridge Vineyards Mendocino County Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., $47.
·
Moderately
light reddish purple color in the glass. Very shy fruit on the nose with forward aromas of loam, peat
and oak. Light and even a bit dilute, with flavors of earth-kissed red cherry and raspberry. Forward
with supple tannins and easy drink ability, but not exciting.
Score: 87
2012 Comptche Ridge Vineyards Mendocino County Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., $47.
·
Moderately
light reddish purple color in the glass. More sap, vibrancy and complexity in this vintage with aromas
of dark cherry, spice and cedary oak, and flavors of cherry, raspberry and spice. Lip-smacking and
bright with some finishing acid-driven tang and intensity.
Score: 89
2013 CrossBarn by Paul Hobbs Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.1% alc., $25, screwcap.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Complex nose offering a panoply of aromas
including lemon creme, lychee, yellow peach, yellow apple, melon and toffee. Very likable,
with good brightness and a very suave mouthfeel, featuring lemon, apple and pear flavors.
Decent persistence on the uplifting finish.
Score: 89
2012 Dragonette Cellars Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 875 cases, $44. A blend of several
vineyards including John Sebastiano (60%), Fiddlestix, La Encantada, Zotovich, Radian, and
Bent Rock. Clones 113, 114, 115, 667, “828,” 777 and Pommard 4. 92% de-stemmed, 4 to 7-day cold
soak, native and commercial yeasts. Aged 15 months on lees in 18% new French oak. Unfined and
unfiltered.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. High-spirited aromas of blackberry, cassis, toasty
oak and a hint of spice. Mid to full-bodied, oak-kissed array of dark fruits with integrated tannins and
some finishing intensity. Showy and satisfying, and a solid everyday wine, albeit a bit too much oak
sheen for me.
Score: 89
2012 Dragonette Cellars Radian Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 200 cases, $54.
This vineyard is located at the far western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. This is an extreme site
buffeted by high winds. Vines struggle to set fruit and only a tiny crop of small clusters are able to
ripen. Yields in this vintage were .57 to .88 tons per acre. Clones 114 and 667. 100% de-stemmed,
4-day cold soak, native and commercial yeast fermentations. Aged 15 months sur lie in 22% new
French oak. Unfiltered. A barrel selection.
·
A brooding, confined wine that offers very shy black fruits
and coffee-scented oak on the nose with a firm, sinewy backbone of tannin. A full-bodied array of
dark red and black fruits are soft and smooth on the palate, and although this texture is very
appealing, the fruit lack expression at this stage, with oak dominating the theme. Like a puzzle that
has not come together, this wine is not as appealing now as it most certainly will be with another few
years in bottle.
2012 Dutton Goldfield Azaya Ranch Vineyard Marin County Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.63, TA
0.63, 236 cases, $58. Vineyard is located in a cold, foggy valley in western Marin County. 100% destemmed
into open-top fermenters, cold soaked for 7 days.Aged 11 months in 50% new French oak
barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. I could not take my nose away from the
glass which was filled with hi-tone scents of black raspberry coulis, crushed blackberries, and spice.
A seamless wine that is charming and welcoming, offering a middleweight array of darker berry and
plum flavors accented with savory herbs in the background. A vein of bright acidity keeps the wine
vivid and refreshing, and the firm tannins provide structure for long term enjoyment. This one really
wakes up the mouth.
Score: 93
2012 Ernest Vineyards The Engineer Romanini Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 360
cases, 360 cases, $36. Released spring 2014. Pommard
clone and Calera selection. Aged in 37% new French
oak.
·
Medium reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely
scented with hi-tone cherry, berry and briar aromas. Mid
to full-bodied, with an impressive Bing cherry attack,
complimentary oak in the background, and a vivacious finish. The
tannins are evident but suave. There is plenty of sappy fruit in this
wine, but the wine is still fresh, juicy, balanced and ready for
current enjoyment.
Score: 92
2012 Ernest Vineyards The Wrangler Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.2% alc., 184 cases, $48.
Released spring 2014. Grand Vent and Dutton-Freestone vineyards. Pommard, 113 and 667 clones.
Aged in 37% new French oak.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose offers an
appealing combination of black cherry, black raspberry, spice and oak scents. Relatively full-bodied,
featuring a core of dark red cherry and berry fruit with a bit of tarry oak in the background. Softly
textured with balanced tannins, and some intensity on the finish which sports a good cut of refreshing
acidity. Not as precocious as The Engineer, and will benefit from cellaring.
Score: 91
2011 Evening Land Spanish Springs Vineyard Edna Valley Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $20.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens slowly in the glass to reveal aromas
of dark stone fruits, oak and herb garden. Luscious essence of sweet black cherries with a
hint of cassis, anise, oak and savory herbs. The velvety mouthfeel is welcoming and the
firm, dry tannins are well managed. The wine finishes on a high note with a good cut of
acidity.
Score: 90
2012 Fog Crest Vineyard Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $53. The vineyard
is on a bench above the Laguna de Santa Rosa. Clones are 115, 777, “828,” Pommard and Mt.
Eden. Primarily Goldridge soils. The winemaker is Jérôme Chéry, formerly a winemaker at Newton,
Littorai, and Saintsbury.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The aroma of fresh Bing cherries
is accented by toasty oak. Soft and velvety in the mouth, this fruit-driven, mid to full-bodied wine,
sports the luscious cherry fruit that the Russian River Valley is known for. The tannins are balanced,
the velvety texture is particularly appealing, and the oak compliment adds toast and spice flavors.
The wine will appeal to those who like a big, fruity style of Pinot Noir with a tug of oak.
Score: 90
2011 Gallegos Boekenoogen Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., $39. The
Gallegos family has been farming grapes in the Napa Valley since the 1950s.
·
Moderately deep
reddish purple color in the glass. Highly aromatic with intense scents of very ripe black cherry and
black raspberry. A hedonistic wine that is the epitome of the California fruit experience with a full
monty of blackberry and black raspberry fruits, with added plum, spiced raisin and sassafras flavors.
The fruit was harvested at the cusp of surmaturité. Very plush on the palate that is both fruit and
alcohol driven. This wine was a favorite at this year’s Pinot Summit, showing well in tastings due to
its flamboyant fruit and seductive mouthfeel. The wine can be easy to like but it pushes the ripeness
envelope and the high alcohol peeks out on the finish.
Score: 88
2013 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Selection Rosé of Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH
3.33, TA 0.65, 209 cases, $28. Released May 2014. Pinot Noir clone 37 from Dutton
Ranch-Wat Vineyard in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley, harvested at 22º Brix
specifically for this bottling. Whole cluster pressed. 70% stainless steel fermented and 30%
fermented in used French oak barrels for two weeks. The entire blend was aged 2 months
in stainless steel.
·
Lovely pink apricot color. Satisfying aromas of alpine strawberry, peach,
yellow rose petal and a pinch of herbs. Plenty of verve on the palate with bright flavors of strawberry,
raspberry, cherry and citrus. A vein of acidity gives the wine focus.
Score: 90
2012 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Selection Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH
3.47, TA 0.60, 9,206 cases, $45. Released May 2014. Sourced from 9 top vineyards in the Russian
River Valley. Harvest Brix 23-24º. 100% de-stemmed, 5 to 7-day cold soak, 10 to 15-day extended
maceration post fermentation. Inoculated for malolactic fermentation and aged for 8 months in 35%
new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromatically gifted with
aromas of black cherry, spice, cardamom and chile spices and subtle oak. Soft in the mouth and very
tasty, featuring dark cherry and black raspberry flavors underlain with oak. A bit exotic tasting for a
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. The tannins are in line and the wine is driven by electric acidity
which is a Gary Farrell trademark. Easy to like.
Score: 90
2012 Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.42, TA
0.71, 1,198 cases, $55. Small percentage of whole cluster to add tannins, spice and complexity. 5 to
7-day cold soak, inoculated fermentation, 10 to 15-day post fermentation maceration. Aged 14 months
in 40% new French oak on primary lees.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose picks up
interest over time in the glass, revealing aromas of blackberry, plum reduction sauce and allspice.
Has shoulders but is still refined, offering mid weight flavors of blackberry, plum and vanillin oak.
Crisp and bright, with penetrating energy and a noticeably persistent finish. More integrated and
complete the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 92
2012 Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard 777 Oak Tank Fermented 17% Whole Cluster Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.70, 120 cases, $65.
Released June 2014. Clone 777 from Block M of the 100-
acre Hallberg Vineyard. Partially de-stemmed with whole
clusters placed on top of the de-stemmed fruit so the stems
could dry and develop more spice and refined tannins. Foot treading
of the grapes was used initially to macerate, then 1 to 2
punch downs per day. 10 to 15-day post fermentation extended
maceration. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak barrels on
primary lees.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass.
The nose is very shy upon opening but explodes with aromatic goodness the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle. Plenty of spicy black berries seduce the senses on the mid
to full-bodied palate and fruit-charged finish. Rather exotic, even fascinating, with many nuances
unfolding over time in the glass. There is enough fruit to balance the wine’s broad shouldered tannins
which will need some time in bottle to fully soften and integrate. A connoisseur's wine.
Score: 94
2012 Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., pH 3.52, TA
0.66, 323 cases, $70. Release September 2014. 5 to 7-day cold soak, 10 to15-day maceration postfermentation.
Aged 14 months in 40% new French oak barrels on primary lees.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. A classy wine with high brow aromas of Bing cherries, spice and seasoned
oak. Very polished in the mouth, with a charge of Bing cherry and black raspberry fruit that is fresh
and alive all the way through the remarkably long finish. Very charming and sophisticated, with the
harmony to age beautifully.
Score: 93
2013 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Selection Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc
13.5% alc., pH 3.10, TA 0.66, 222 cases, $25, screwcap. Released May 2014. Sourced from
Ritchie Vineyard with harvest Brix of 21.9º. 80% fermented and aged in stainless steel, 20%
fermented and aged in neutral French oak barrels. The entire blend was aged 3 months on
the primary lees.
·
Very pale yellow with a tinge of green color in the glass. The nose is vibrant
and flush with aromas of tropical fruits, grapefruit and a hint of vanilla. Refreshing, energetic
and flavorful, with an array of interesting tastes including lemon-lime, guava, white peach, and the
slightest oak. The typical grassiness found in Sauvignon Blanc is present but it is only a subtle
signature note. The dry, lemon-driven finish urges another sip. Going back many years, Gary Farrell
made a string of outstanding Sauvignon Blanc wines, and this wine upholds that tradition.
Score: 91
2012 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Selection Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.5% alc.,
pH 3.9, TA 0.66, 6,902 cases, $35. Released May 2014. Sourced from multiple vineyards. Harvest
Brix 22-23º. Whole cluster pressed, inoculated with Montrachet yeast. Aged 7 months in 35% new
French oak barrels.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. A little reduced upon opening.
Aromas of lemon curd, mango, spice and oak improve over time in the glass. The easy drinking array
of flavors including lemon, white peach, vanilla creme and nutty oak pick up intensity over time, and
there is plenty of acidity to encourage enjoyment.
Score: 87
2012 Gary Farrell Westside Farms Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.6% alc., pH 3.24, TA
0.70, 580 cases, $45. Release September 2014. Wente clone 4. Harvest Brix 22-23º. Whole cluster
pressed, inoculated with Montrachet yeast. Aged 8 months in 40% new French oak (barrels and 500-
L puncheons).
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Slightly austere and driven by flinty
minerality, this wine offers demure flavors of yellow peach and grilled lemon. Somewhat silky on the
palate with bright acidity on the soprano finish. I could not connect with this wine.
Score: 87
2012 Gary Farrell Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.40, TA
0.68, 153 cases, $55. Harvest Brix 23º. Wente selection. Whole cluster pressed. Native fermentation
and aged 8 months in 40% new French oak barrels (a mixture of barrels and 500-L puncheons).
·
Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Fresh, clean aromas of steely lemon.
Discreet fullness on the palate with flavors of lemon, baked pear, caramel and buttery, smoky oak in
the background. Crisp, with a clean mouthfeel.
Score: 89
2011 Gypsy Canyon Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $110, heavy custom bottle.
·
Moderately
dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is reserved, offering demure aromas of spiced plum,
black raspberry and cardamom spice. Rich and luscious on the palate with a full-bodied charge of
purple and black fruits backed by firm tannins. A fruit-driven wine of considerable intensity, with a
velvety mouthfeel, a touch of oak, and good underlying acidity. The finish is satisfying but not
unusually long. The palate is more developed than the nose in this wine.
Score: 90
2012 Gypsy Canyon Trois Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., $95. Presented in a bottle made
from 100% recyclable materials. At just 16 ounces, the bottle reduces the raw materials used in
production by sixteen percent, leaving a small carbon footprint. Hand made paper label printed on a
manual letterpress and sealed with estate-harvested bees wax.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. A vibrant nose that increases in volume over time in the glass. Aromas of cherry, baking spice
and sandalwood. The mid weight cherry core is accented with complimentary oak and herbs. The
wine is soft in the mouth, elegant, and nicely balanced, with a generous cherry-driven finish that won’t
let up. Forward and easy to drink now, but even better the following day from a previously opened
and re-corked bottle.
Score: 92
2012 Gypsy Canyon The Collector’s Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., $110. From the estate Santa Rita Creek Vineyard presented in a hand blown
bottle with a hand made paper label printed on a manual
letterpress. The cork is sealed with estate-harvested bees wax.
·
Medium reddish purple color in the glass. The aromas are
penetrating and persistent and feature cherry, dark red berry and
baking spices. A well-sustained mid palate of black cherry fruit
discreetly concentrated and finishing with grandiose intensity. Not
quite as big or dark as the 2011 estate bottling, but riper fruit and a
more multifaceted finish. There is plenty of natural acidity to
balance the fruit.
Score: 92
2012 Hahn SLH Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $35. Estate grown and produced.
Aged 11 months in French oak barrels.
·
Medium reddish purple color in the glass. The scents of oakkissed
black cherry carry over onto the palate with the addition of complimentary spice and toast. A
solid, mid weight wine that has reasonably good structure and concentration and is easy to drink.
Score: 87
2011 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.62, 1,211 cases, $98. A vintage
marked by low crop set and considerable shatter with Pinot Noir yields down 40%. Extra suckering,
leaf pulling and hedging passes were required to keep the canopy in balance with a light crop. The
crop was picked just before the rains that started on September 24. 100% de-stemmed, hand punch
downs. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Shy aromas of berry jam, dark cherry and violets. Middleweight flavors of black cherry,
pomegranate and blueberry with an earthy undertone. Silky, with ripe, modestly firm tannins and
impressive balance. Much more expressive on the nose and palate the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle. A very classy wine that will age and should be aged for
maximum enjoyment.
Score: 93
2012 J. Lohr Estates Falcon’s Perch Monterey County Pinot Noir
13.66% alc., pH 3.76, TA 0.70,
$17. Dijon and Pommard clones. Harvest Brix 26.5º. Maturation in stainless steel with 15% aged in
second fill French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Deep aromas of black
cherry, strawberry jam and smoky oak. Mid weight flavors of very ripe black cherry, black raspberry,
and strawberry fruit, with spice and oak intermingling in a satisfying wine with some intensity and
length on the finish which is replete with cherry liquor goodness. Curiously, there were no new oak
barrels used in vinification, yet oak seems to stand out.
Score: 87
2012 J. Lohr Fog’s Reach Arroyo Seco Monterey Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., pH 3.75, TA 0.59, 3,340
cases, $35. Harvest Brix 27.2º. High percentage of clone 667. 8 days maceration on average. Aged 8
months in 50% new medium to heavy toast French oak.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Clean aromas of dark stone fruits and berries with a compliment of toasty oak. Quite tasty mid
weight attack of black raspberry, blackberry, strawberry and Hoison sauce flavors. Nicely integrated
tannins and a pleasing finish leaving behind some cedary oak in its wake.
Score: 88
2012 J. Lohr Highlands Bench Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.9% alc., pH 3.64,
TA 0.65, 732 cases, $25. Harvest Brix 26º. 100% estate fruit. Native and inoculated
fermentation. 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged in barrel sur lie for 18 months in 51% new
French oak.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Tropical fruits dominate the
nose with softer aromas of lemon pudding and crème brûlée. The flavors echo the nose with
added notes of guava, vanilla and subtle oak. Inviting crispiness and commendable balance
in an easy drinking, casual style.
Score: 89
2012 J. Lohr October Night Arroyo Seco Chardonnay
14.9% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.63, 1,995 cases,
$25. 100% estate fruit. 73% Dijon clone 809 and 27% Dijon clone 95 and 96. 100% malolactic
fermentation. Aged in barrel sur lie with weekly stirring for 9 months in 45% new French oak.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Shy aromas of buttery brioche, herbs, resin and
nutty oak. A bit unusual flavor profile feature nectarine, nutmeg, citrus and vanilla. Soft and slightly
creamy in the mouth with nice balance, but nothing jumps out as exceptional.
Score: 88
2012 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Arroyo Seco Monterey Chardonnay
14.9% alc., pH 3.56, TA0.66, 17,649 cases,
$25. 100% estate fruit. Focused more on the aromatic
Musqué clone. Harvest Brix 25.7º. 100% malolactic
fermentation. Aged in 50% new French oak for 14 months.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. An
engaging and polished wine featuring aromas and flavors of lemon
curd, yellow apple, buttery oak, and an enticing flinty minerality.
Well-crafted, with a slightly cream texture and a dry, refreshing
finish.
Score: 91
Kosta Browne wines are extremely popular. The winery does not have a tasting room
since they sell all their wine direct to consumers and have nothing extra to pour. The
winery is closed to the public. Large format bottles are for charity auctions only. The
wines are sold twice a year (spring and fall) to a mailing list. Currently, there is an
extensive waiting list, which comes with a 2 to 3-year wait for a spring allocation of
appellation wines and a 5 to 6-year wait for a fall allocation of single vineyard designate
wines.
2012 Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $64.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in
the glass. The nose features aromas of black cherry, BBQ, grilled meat and smoky oak. Very soft
and smooth on the palate with a modest attack of sweet black cherry and black plum fruits. A slightly
smoky note is prevalent in the background. Pleasant, but linear and not exceptional, with a short
finish.
Score: 87
2012 Kosta Browne Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., $64.
·
Moderate reddish-purple
color in the glass. Aromas and flavors of black cherry, raspberry and plum with a hint of spice and
cola. Soft in the mouth, with balanced tannins and some finishing intensity. A solid wine.
Score: 88
2012 Kosta Browne Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., $64.
·
Moderately dark reddish
purple hue in the glass. Nicely appointed nose with fresh aromas of blackberry, spice rub and oak. Mid to full-bodied core of purple fruits, complimentary oak, and supportive tannins. The intensely
fruity finish is the most satisfying of the three appellation wines in 2012.
Score: 89
2012 Kosta Browne Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $84.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasant aromas of dark red fruits, spice
and graham. Tasty mid weight core of sweet black cherry and berry fruits that fill the mouth with
pleasure. The wine is quite open and giving, with modest tannins and some finishing length. About
the same the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 89
2012 Kosta Browne Kanzler Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., 760 cases, $84.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose draws you in with vivid aromas of fresh
black raspberry and blackberry fruit. Soft and silky on the palate with nice harmony, this fruit-driven
wine is more modest in concentration than in past years and drinkers may relish this expression. That
said, this is not a wimpy wine. The fruit, albeit very ripe, is vivid and invigorating. Still satisfying the
following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 90
2012 Kosta Browne Cohn Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 36 cases, $84.
·
Moderately
dark reddish purple color in the glass. Brooding aromas of
dark fruits, wine cave, seasoned oak and spice cabinet.
Bold and dense charge of purple and black berry fruits with
hints of cassis and spice, filling the mouth with goodness
and lasting on quite a glorious finish. This wine sports admirable
balance and plenty of old vine goodness. Even better later in the
day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. A special,
even exceptional wine.
Score: 94
2012 Kosta Browne Giusti Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., 650 cases, $84.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. This is a full-bodied, remarkably intensely flavored wine with
amazing sap concentration. Waves of blackberry and cassis fruit attack the palate with knock your
socks off, Syrah like boldness. How do you get this much fruit concentrate from Pinot Noir? Although
a flamboyant mother, it still has soft balancing tannins and a velvety mouth feel. When tasted the
following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had retained its intensity and
velvety texture. Michael Browne likes rock n’ roll, and this one rocks.
Score: 92
2012 Kosta Browne Keefer Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., 1,266
cases, $84.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Love this nose which has big-time
volume with swirling. Aromas of cherry, cranberry and nutmeg lead to mid weight flavors of
cherry, strawberry, cola, mocha and baking spices. The brightest wine in the 2012 KB lineup
with a good cut of underlying juicy acidity, and a substantial peacock finish. This is one
remarkably provocative wine.
Score: 94
2012 Kosta Browne Koplen Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., 980 cases,
$84.
·
Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose is not very expressive even with intensive
swirling in the glass. Demure aromas of dark berries, smoke and oak finally emerge over time. More
giving on the palate with a pleasing middleweight attack of blackberry and black raspberry fruit that
hits the mid palate with a vengeance and then fills every nook and cranny of the mouth. The finish
has numbing concentration. Typical Koplen, but the aromas haven’t arrived.
Score: 91
2012 Kosta Browne Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 539 cases,
$84.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The aromatic and flavor profile is dominated by a
generous array of darker berries including boysenberry. Big, fruity and bold in this vintage, yet
polished with very soft tannins. The pleasure ends in a very giving finish.
Score: 92
2012 Kosta Browne Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 793 cases,
$84.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Striking raspberry aroma on the nose with a touch of
spice. Mid weight flavors of black raspberry, black cherry, brown spice and anise backed by smoky
oak. The tannins are refined and the finish is pleasurable. The wine seems a bit closed and
impenetrable at this stage and should benefit from more time in the cellar. Tasted twice with this
review based on the best of two bottles.
Score: 90
2012 Kosta Browne Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., 200 cases,
$84.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the mouth. The nose offers a mix of dark red cherry and
strawberry fruits with a hint of sweet oak. Discreetly concentrated flavors echo the nose with an
added hint of grilled plum. Noticeable finesse and easy approachability, uncommon for a Pisoni Pinot Noir.
The finish is strikingly long - an observation I emphasized several times in my notes.
Score: 92
2012 Kosta Browne 4-Barrel California Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., 98 cases, $84.
·
Darkest wine in the 2012 lineup.
The aromas are clean, pure and elevating, featuring notes
of ripe cherry, raspberry and blueberry with a hint of
nutmeg. My notes say, “Wow!” Delicious array of perfectly
ripened Bing cherry, raspberry and ollaliberry fruit with riffs
of oak-driven mocha and tea. Very suave in the mouth with
impeccable balance and a long, multifaceted finish. This wine is
always special. In Pinot veritas.
Score: 95
2012 La Crema Los Carneros Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.74, TA 0.51, 2,745 cases, $40. 667,
Calera, Swan, 2A, Pommard and 777. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, 70% whole berries in
tank. Gentle punch downs several times each day. Aged 9 months in 33% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The aromas draw you into the glass with vivacious
notes of blackberry jam, black raspberry coulis and sexy spice. Rich, plush and broad in the mouth,
with an array of luscious dark stone and berry fruits, complimentary oak barrel presence, and nicely
integrated tannins. This wine is a big boy with a smile that will find widespread appeal. La Crema
continues to offer consistently superb Pinot Noirs from multiple California appellations. Drawing upon a vast
vineyard portfolio, there are few other labels that can match La Crema for unfailing excellence year after year.
Score: 92
2012 Littorai Platt Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $65.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in
the glass. Vivid aromas of alpine strawberry, raspberry
coulis, briar and vanillin oak. Delicious fruit charge
featuring raspberry, strawberry and cherry with stylish
spice. Crisp and clean with modest tannins and a cherry
and raspberry fueled finish of notable length and vibrancy. Still
young and will take on more complexity with aging. Even better
later in the day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. You
will like this one.
Score: 94
2012 Littorai The Pivot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., $70.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. The nose evolves nicely over time in the glass, offering scents of red cherry
hard candy, black cherry coulis, dark chocolate, mulch and spice. Not particularly showy on the
palate initially with a modest attack of mid weight, nicely ripened black cherry fruit. The wine picks up
interest over time in the glass, building in intensity and complexity. The harmony is particularly
appealing and the cherry-driven finish is quite refreshing due to its palate-cleansing acidity. Like so
many Littorai wines, this one requires more time in the cellar for full expression.
Score: 92
2012 Mansfield-Dunne Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 285 cases, pH 3.72, TA
0.60, $36. Clones 667, 115, 777 and Pommard 5. Aged 11 months in 35% new French oak barrels.
Winemaker is Ed Kurtzman.
·
Light garnet color in the glass. Highly floral on the nose with cherries in
the background. Demure and delicate, featuring red cherry and berry flavors. Soft and silky with
unobtrusive tannins and easy drink ability.
Score: 87
2012 Mansfield-Dunne Peterson Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH
3.72, TA 0.60, 325 cases, $48. Clones “828,” 667, Pomard 5, 115 and 777. Aged 1 months in 50%
new French oak barrels. Winemaker is Ed Kurtzman.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. An array of red fruits perk up the nose. Elegant and silky on the palate with vibrant red cherry
and cranberry fruits framed by exotic spices. Charming, with modest tannins and some finishing
goodness. A very delicate and forward style that is unique for Santa Lucia Highlands.
Score: 90
2012 Manzoni Home Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 797 cases,
$35. Three generations of the family have farmed what is now the Santa Lucia Highlands
AVA. Winemaker David Coventry. Dijon clones 115 and 777.
·
Moderate reddish purple color
in the glass. The nose is nicely fruited with black cherry, black raspberry and blueberry and
well-oaked. There is plenty of black cherry fruit presence in the mouth accented with spice
and oak-driven notes of anise and mocha. The palate-staining finish is flush with cherry, cola and
sassafras. There is a lot to like in this wine but there is too much oak at play and a bit of alcoholic
heat shows up on the finish.
Score: 89
2012 Margerum Sybarite Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara Sauvignon Blanc
Table wine,
$16, screwcap. Sourced from McGinley (50%), Curtis (15%), Grassini (20%) and Star Lane
(15%) vineyards.
·
Light yellow color and clear in the glass. Plenty to discover in this wine
with typical Sauvignon Blanc character. Appealing aromas of baked pear, lemon curd, nutty
butter and tropical fruits. Intense flavors of lemon-lime, pear, tart apple nectarine, grapefruit
and gooseberry. Bright and bracing, with a juicy finish.
Score: 89
Martin Ray Vineyards and Winery has been known for large production, reliable table
wines at reasonable prices, under the Martin Ray, Courtney Benham, and Angeline
Wines labels, often distributed to major high volume wine retailers. More recently, the
Martin Ray label has taken on a more sophisticated redesign and the three 2012 Pinot
Noirs reviewed here indicate there is a new commitment to ultra premium winemaking
under the Martin Ray tag. The wines are more prestigious in presentation including a
heavier bottle. Consulting winemaker Dan Goldfield brings experience in Burgundian
varietals to the organization whose head winemaker is Bill Batchelor assisted by Lindsey
Haughton.
2012 Martin Ray Reserve Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.60, $40. Released
November 2013. Sourced from Cooper-Garrod Vineyards. Aged 12 months in 40% new French oak
barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is really elevating over time in
the glass, offering aromas of black cherry, spice, dark chocolate and wet clay. Mid to full-bodied core
of fresh dark cherries, black raspberries and plums with an earthy undertone. Fine-grain tannins
create a satisfying mouth feel, and a deep, generous dark cherry and berry finish leaves a pleasant
smile. This wine becomes more interesting over time, always a sign of age ability.
Score: 91
2012 Martin Ray Reserve Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.1%
alc., pH 3.66, TA 0.54, $35. Released November 2013. Tasting room only. Sourced
from the Tina Marie Vineyard. Harvest Brix 24.4º. 100% de-stemmed, aged 11
months in 50% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Very exotic aromas of spice, wild berries and earthy flora. Delicious essence
of fresh black raspberries and blackberries that makes a statement on the mid palate. A touch of
spicy oak adds interest, the acidity is nicely integrated, and the tannins are soft and composed. A
stunning wine that finishes with uncommon length. Wow!
Score: 94
2012 Martin Ray Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.63, $35. Released June
2014. Tasting room only. Aged 16 months in 50% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. Grandiose aromas of boysenberry jam, spiced black cherries, and
earthy flora. Mid to full-bodied cherry fruit graced by sinewy tannins and a touch of oak. A
little wild and feral in nature. Very intriguing with a good thrust of fruit on the aromatic finish.
Score: 92
2010 McHenry Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
13.7% alc., <320 cases, $25. A Santa
Cruz Mountains cult wine that is grown, produced and bottled by McHenry Vineyard on
Boony Doon Rd in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This 2-acre vineyard sits at 1,800 feet
elevation five miles from the Pacific Ocean. Aged 2 years in French oak.
·
Moderately light
garnet color in the glass. Bright aromas of fresh cherry pie glaze, baking spice and
sandalwood lead to a light to mid weight core of dark red cherry, sassafras, espresso and
spice flavors. Balanced tannins, lively acidity, and a satisfying finish filled with grace and intensity.
The wine has plenty of flash when first poured, but loses some appeal over time in the glass
indicating it should be drunk now.
Score: 89
2012 Migration Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 11,588 cases, $38.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. Effusive aromas of Bing cherry, strawberry, cranberry and a little oak spice.
The flavor theme is dark cherry accented with cola, spice and oak. Modest in weight, with plenty of
sweet fruit on the finish which throws a hint of heat. A solid wine considering its large scale
production.
Score: 87
2012 Migration Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.53, TA 0.54, 8,459 cases, $32.
Released October 2013. Grapes harvested from 11 vineyards. Aged 10 months in 90% French oak
barrels (35% new), and bottled July 2013.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of
pineapple, creme caramel, lemon, flint and subtle oak are echoed on the lightly scaled palate which
adds a peach flavor. The juicy acidity makes for refreshing drinking.
Score: 87
2012 Migration Searby Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.51,
278 cases, $55. Old vine Rued clone, planted in 1972, and grown in sandy loam and dry-farmed.
Aged 10 months in 35% new and 65% once used French oak, and bottled July 2013.
·
Light golden
yellow color and clear in the glass. Shy, but pleasing aromas of lemon, lychee and toast. Polished
and slightly creamy on the palate with delicate flavors of grilled lemon and yellow peach. Nicely
balanced with impressive barrel management.
Score: 89
2012 Migration Dierberg Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay
14.3% alc., 288 cases, $55.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromatically alive with scents of lemon curd, green
apple, nutty oak and vanilla. Very easy to like with an appealingly viscous texture and good flavor
intensity. Plenty of lemon and stone fruits propel the juicy finish. Clearly, the Central Coast is one of
the most underrated sources for Chardonnay.
Score: 91
2011 Pellegrini Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.47, TA 0.64, $30.
Grapes were sourced from two vineyards in the southwestern corner of the Russian River
Valley AVA. 20% whole cluster, 4-day cold soak, native yeast fermentation, aged 11 months
in 33% new French oak.
·
Moderately deep reddish purple color in the glass. The nose
draws you in with aromas of cherry, cranberry and baking spices. Very bright, flavorful and
appealing, with mid weight flavors of cherries, cola, sarsaparilla, and spice. Forwarddrinking
and nicely balanced with submerged tannins and a moderately long and intense finish.
Score: 90
2012 Pennywise California Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.60, RS 4.0 g/L, 17,000 cases,
$10. Produced by The Other Guys based in Napa. Pinot Noir is sourced from a couple of blocks on
the eastern edge of the Bay Area: Livermore and Clarksburg. 78% Pinot Noir, 11% Grenache, 6%
Barbera, 3% Petite Sirah and 2% Merlot.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The blackberry,
black currant and black raspberry fruit shows promise in this wine but is overshadowed by the oakdriven
imprint of smoke, tobacco and vanilla. The soft, refined mouthfeel is the best feature of this
wine. The added red varieties bring a touch of peppery spice flavor. Tasted twice.
Score: 85
2011 Peter Paul Wines Trenton Road Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., 240 cases,
$40. Sourced from grapes grown just north of Forestville on a hillside above the Russian River. Dijon
777 clone. Aged in 70% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Tarry,
smoky oak dominates the black cherry fruit in the nose. Middleweight core of ripe black cherry fruit
immersed in smoky oak. Lacks nuance, length and personality.
Score: 86
2012 Peter Paul Wines Gravenstein Highway Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5%
alc., 1,166 cases, $34. The core of this wine is from Anderson-Ross Vineyard on
Gravenstein Highway. Clones 115, 23 and 667. Fermented with natural yeast in open-top
fermenters after a 6-day cold soak. Aged in 30% new French oak. Unfiltered.
·
Moderately
dark reddish purple color in the glass. Love the nose on this wine with its hi-tone Bing
Cherry, cola and red rose petal aromas. Impressive attack of Bing cherry fruit that fills the
mouth with goodness. Discreetly lush with balanced tannins and a lasting finish. My only nit is that
alcoholic heat is noticeable in the background.
Score: 90
2012 Peter Paul Wines Mill Station Road Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 230 cases,
$40. This vineyard is planted in Goldridge soil in a cool area near Atascadero Creek. Dijon 115 clone.
6-day cold soak, natural yeast fermentation in open-top fermenters, aged in 60% new French oak
barrels.
·
Medium reddish purple color in the glass. The appealing aromas of cherry and rose petal are
overwhelmed by oak. Moderately concentrated and flavorful core of ripe black cherry, black raspberry
and blackberry fruit accented with notes of cola, spice, and imposing oak. A fruit-driven wine with
modest tannins and some finishing intensity. Too much oak sheen for my taste and alcoholic heat
shows up at the finish.
Score: 87
2012 Ram’s Gate Carneros Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.60, TA o.55, 1,954 cases, $40. Aged 11
months in new and used French oak.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Deep and dark
fruited with aromas of black cherries, black currants, dark chocolate and baking spices. Full-bodied
flavors of black cherry and blackberry with appealing earth, cola and grilled mushroom accents that
are typical of Carneros Pinot Noir. Mouth filling on the attack and generous and rich on the finish with
well-managed oak. Not a subtle wine by any stretch, but you have to like its gritty presence.
Score: 90
2012 Ram’s Gate Sangiocomo Vineyards Roberts Road Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.8% alc.,
pH 3.60, TA 0.55, 442 cases, $68. Aged 11 months in 50% new French oak.
·
Light garnet color in the
glass. Very fruity on the nose with bright aromas of strawberry and cherry. A little baking spice,
sandalwood and sassafras chimes in. Thoroughly enjoyable in the mouth with flavors of red berries
and cherry that fan out on the palate. There is definitely an oak presence in this wine but it is not
imposing. The soft, slippery, and modestly long finish aims to please.
Score: 92
2012 Ram’s Gate Glass House Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.57, 252 cases, $62. Aged 11
months in two-thirds new French oak.
·
Moderately light reddish
purple hue in the glass. Pleasing scents of dark cherry pie glaze
and spice that pick up vibrancy over time. Forward drinking and
noticeably intense, with broad flavors of dark red cherries, spice
and oak. Impeccably balanced, this cherry-themed wine unveils
many nuances that catch your interest over time in the glass. This
beauty is stylish and friendly in the mouth, and, simply put, flat out
delicious.
Score: 93
2012 Scribe Winery VI. The Hunter Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $40.
·
Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Some nice Bing cherry and spice aromas show up on the nose, but are
overwhelmed by smoky oak. Relatively light and easy to drink, with flavors of red cherry, cranberry
and strawberry. Silky in the mouth with a generous oak overlay. (Disclaimer - my son, Dane,
works at Scribe Winery and did not submit this wine for review)
Score: 87
2011 Senders Las Brisas Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., 125 cases, $N/A. Released
April 2014. Clones 667 (40%), 777 (20%) and Swan (40%). Aged 12 months in 25% new French oak
barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A cherry-themed wine with a savory herb
component in the background. Crisp and fresh, with silky tannins and bright acidity. An easy to like,
solid table wine.
Score: 89
2012 Senses Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.4% alc., pH 3.78, TA 0.54, $40. Released fall 2013. Sourced from Hillcrest Estate and Tanuda vineyards. BArrel aged for 11 months in 25% new French oak barres. Winemaker is Thomas Rivers Brown.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Soaring scents of oak-infused red and black cherries and
redwood forest. Modest concentration of darker red cherry and berry fruits with a muscular backbone
of firm tannins which show up on the finish. A solid wine with charming fruit that could use more time
in bottle to soften and integrate the tannins.
Score: 89
2012 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.67, TA 0.65, $28. Grapes
were sourced from vineyards in cooler regions of the Napa Valley. Aged 10 months sur lies in
30% new French oak. No malolactic fermentation.
·
Light straw color and clear in the glass.
Enticing perfume of citrus, pear, pastry cream, spice and vanilla. Vivid on the palate with a
core of fresh citrus flavors accented with notes of white peach and nutty oak. Easy to like and
not overwrought with oak.
Score: 90
2012 Shane The Charm Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., $42. Primarily sourced from
Floodgate Vineyard. Clones 667 and Martini. 20% whole cluster, aged 15 in 20% new French oak.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely nose redolent of fresh Bing cherry and strawberry
shortcake. Polished and seductive, with a mid weight core of nicely ripened cherry fruit caressed by
modest tannins. A touch of spice and cola adds interest. Tasted later in the day, the wine had further
blossomed and sported an engaging, long finish.
Score: 91
2012 Shane La Reine Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., $42. Petaluma gap fruit including
clones 115, 777, “828,” and Swan.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Somewhat
brooding, revealing itself slowly in the glass. Dense and sappy dark berry fruits flood the nose and
palate. Some earthy mushroom and peppery spice add interest. Almost like Syrah in fruit liquor
richness, with firm, grippy tannins. Lacks finishing length. Needs more time in bottle to reach full
expression.
Score: 88
Mike Sinor acquired his family’s first vineyard property, the 112-acre Bassi Ranch
and 30-acre Bassi Vineyard, in 2013, representing the culmination of 23 years of
hard work in the local wine business currently with both Ancient Peaks Winery and
Sinor-LaVallee. The vineyard, located just 1.5 miles inland at Avila Beach, was
planted in 2000. The 2013 Pinot Gris and the 2012 Syrah (80% from Bassi Ranch
Vineyard) are the first estate wines from Sinor-LaVallee. Starting with the 2013
vintage, Sinor-LaVallee will be producing a majority of wines from their Estate
Vineyard including mostly Pinot Noir along with small volumes of Chardonnay,
Pinot Gris, Albarino and Syrah. Mike has been a tireless promoter of the San Luis
Obispo winegrowing region as well as significant contributor to the success of the
World of Pinot Noir event. The Sinor-LaValle front label has Mike’s thumbprint on
the left and his spouse Cheri’s on the right, and the kids’ thumbprints are on the
back label. The website is www.sinorlavallee.com.
2012 Sinor-LaVallee San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 438 cases, $30, screwcap.
73% Squire Canyon Vineyard in Avila Beach and 27% Spanish Springs Vineyard in Pismo Beach.
Native and inoculated yeast fermentation. 12 days in fermenter. Pressed off in an imported Italian
basket press. Aged 11 months in 50% new French oak from Francois Frères. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of blueberries and pomegranate lead to
full-bodied flavors of blue and purple berries with a hint of spice and vanillin oak. A big boy, but
refined with integrated tannins. A touch of heat shows up on the finish.
Score: 88
2012 Sinor-LaVallee Talley-Rincon Vineyard Arroyo Grande Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 142
cases, $40. 100% de-stemmed. 50% native and 50% inoculated fermentation. Average 15 days in
fermenter. Pressed off in an imported Italian basket press. Aged 15 months in 50% new Francois
Frères oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is enticing
with fresh aromas of blackberries, boysenberries and oak. Very juicy and vivid on the palate with a
delicious array of berry flavors that fan out on the palate. The tannins are well integrated and the
wine finishes with polish and generosity.
Score: 91
2012 Sinor-LaVallee Anniversary Cuvée San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 48 cases, $50. A
blend of all the vineyards Mike Sinor works with. 100%
whole cluster. Only produced in special vintages.
Fermented in 60 gallon barrels with one end removed.
Native primary and malolactic fermentations. Average 12 days in
fermenter. Pressed off using an imported Italian basket press.
Aged 15 months in 50% new Francois Frères oak barrels. Unfined
and unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass.
This is a wine that demands your attention. Lovely aromas of wild
berries, redwoods, and exotic spices. Discreetly concentrated
dark red and purple fruits fill the mid palate with goodness. The tannic backbone is firm and sculpted
at this stage, but not intrusive. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and recorked
bottle, the wine had elevated, showing more integration of tannins, and a spectacular peacock
finish. This is a connoisseur's wine that will reward time in the cellar.
Score: 94
2012 Sinor-LaVallee San Luis Obispo County Syrah
15.5% alc., 277 cases, $28. 80% Bassi
Vineyard and 17% Laetitia Vineyard and 2% Cannon Vineyard. 65% fermented in 1-ton open top
boxes and 35% fermented in a redwood open-top fermenter. Half of lots inoculated with Syrah yeast,
the other half native fermented. Total time in fermenter averaged 12 days. Pressed off in an imported
Italian basket press. Aged 11 months in 17% new Francois Frères oak barrels.
·
Deep, dark, inky reddish-purple color in the glass. Very little fruit shows up on the nose which is replete with aromas of smoky, vanillin oak. The plush black fruit load coats the tongue and
the vanilla and tobacco oak overlay is more integrated and inviting on the palate. This wine has
shoulders, but is still refined. Balanced despite its alcohol load. Decant if you must drink now.
Score: 88
2013 Sinor-LaVallee San Luis Obispo Pinot Gris
$18, screwcap. From the
estate Bassi Vineyard just 1.2 miles from the Pacific Ocean in Avila Beach. This wine
represents a selection of the best fruit from less than one acre of Pinot Gris at the crown of
the vineyard with marine sandstone soil. Harvest Brix 22.5º and 24.0º. 20% fermented with
native yeast. Primarily cold fermented in stainless steel with a small portion fermented in
neutral oak barrels.
·
Pale yellow color and clear in the glass. The floral nose is accented by
scents of apple, pear and nuts. Pleasing mid weight flavors of lemon, lime, pear and apple wake up
the mouth, leading to a refreshing finish driven by bright acidity. The fruit picked early provides
brightness while the fruit picked later gives fruit richness. One of the better Pinot Gris wines I have
had from California.
Score: 90
2010 Soliste L’Age D’Or Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.3% alc., 340 cases, $50. Aged 16
months in French oak.
·
Moderately pale golden yellow color in the glass. Lovely aromas of lemon pie
filling, crisp apple and buttered brioche. Delicious palate presence with fresh and lively flavors of
lemon, golden apple, baking spice. The mouthfeel is soft and dreamy in the mouth, the oak is
perfectly integrated, and the fruit shows up for an encore on the juicy finish. Conjures a white
burgundy with the fat middle palate of Russian River Valley.
2011 Soliste L’Ambroise Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.8% alc., 29 cases, $100.
MonoClone® “828” from Guidicci Vineyard.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
Soaring aromas of cherry, raspberry preserves, and spice, picking up intensity over time in the
glass. A harmonious wine with delicious Bing cherry fruit singing in tune with supportive suave
tannins and bright acidity. Amazing expression of dark cherry fruit which saturates the mid
palate and persists on the big finish. Delightful pinotosity.
Score: 94
2011 Soliste Nouveau Monde Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.9% alc., 79 cases, $75.
MonoClone® Pommard from Keller Estate.
·
Moderately light garnet color in the glass.
Wonderful perfume of red berries, red cherries, baking spice and sandalwood. In the mouth,
this wine makes you sit up and take notice. Delicious mix of fresh, vibrant wild cherry,
raspberry and red plum fruits with a touch of exotic spice in the background. Seamless and
caressing with supple tannins. Lighter in weight but highly flavorful with a very long and
charming spiced-cherry finish. Currently in a state of near perfection.
Score: 96
2011 Soliste L’Espérance Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.8% alc.,
104 cases, $75. MonoClone® 115 from Sonatera Vineyard.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is
flamboyant over time in the glass offering aromas of dark cherries,
cola and spice. I couldn’t take my nose out of the glass. This wine
has a delicious dark cherry core underlain with tobacco oak and
spice and seems to dance around in the glass with flavors coming
and going to the party. A little more rugged and powerful than the
Forét, but retains an easy-going finesse. Highly enjoyable.
Score: 93
2012 Soliste Nouveau Monde Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.1% alc., 117 cases, $Not released. MonoClone® Pommard from Keller Estate. Large
percentage of whole cluster.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The whole
cluster is evident in a good way on the nose and palate. Plenty of exotic spice and flowery
bouquet compliments the dark cherry and black raspberry core of fruit which has remarkable
length. Crisp, fresh and elegant, yet has a substantial tannic spine. The memorable finish is
filled with exotic spice and is endlessly long and gracious.
Score: 95
2012 Stemmler Carneros Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.33, TA 0.71, 2,003 cases, $25, screwcap.
Released May 2014. A blend of Dijon and heritage clones from vineyards near Donum Ranch. Aged
10 months in 20% new French and Hungarian oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass.
The fruit never shows up on the nose to compliment the oak aromas even after an hour in the glass.
Much better on the palate with tasty black cherry, blueberry and black raspberry flavors with an added
hint of spice, earth and a noticeable oak imprint. Juicy acidity, with dusty tannins and easy drink
ability.
Score: 87
2012 Stemmler Estate Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.80, TA 0.61, 1,727 cases,
$44. Released May 2014. A blend of Donum-Roederer, Calera and Martini selections and Dijon 115,
667 and 777 clones representing all nine blocks on the 45-acre Donum Ranch. Each hand-harvested
lot was fermented separately using native yeasts. 11 to 25 days on skins. Aged 10 months in 20%
new French oak.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Vibrant aromas of fresh Bing
cherries, spice and musky oak. A full mouth full of Pinot Noir featuring sweet, perfectly ripened
cherries and welcome oak barrel presence. Seamless, with a silky, long and generous finish. A treat.
Score: 91
2012 Stemmler Nugent Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.71, TA 0.60,
873 cases, $44. Released fall 2013. Estate grown blend of 115 (65%) and 667 (30%) blended with
Pommard (5%) from a newer planting. 5 to 7-day cold soak. The 115 lots were barreled down at
dryness and the 667 lots received 2 weeks of extended maceration. Aged 10 months in 30% new
French oak.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Plenty to like on the nose with bright aromas
of Bing cherry, rose petal, sandalwood and baking spice. Deep cherry flavor with accents of cola,
anise, and spice. Very lush on the palate but balanced with tannin and complimented by oak. The
spice component spoke of whole cluster in the wine.
Score: 90
2012 Stemmler Winside Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot
14.5% alc., pH 3.72, TA 0.60 1,349 cases, $44.. Released
May 2014. Winside, Inc., a partnership of Danish businesspersons,
acquired Donum and Stemmler in the fall of 2011, and in
November 2012, purchased Nugent Vineyard, now named Winside
Vineyard. A blend of 115 (55%) and 667 (35%) with a Pommard
selection (10%). Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak.
·
Medium
reddish purple color in the glass. Very appealing nose with hitone,
soaring scents of fresh cherries, red raspberries, and
strawberries. A very harmonious offering that is discreetly
concentrated and welcoming. The spicy black raspberry core is
very tasty, the tannins are suave and well-proportioned, and the elegance is seductive. Even better
when tasted later in the day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. A noble wine with
personality.
Score: 92
Beginning with the 2012 vintage, Talbott is bottling all of its wines under screw caps.
Winemaker Dan Karlsen is now focusing on more sheltered sites, where the wind
doesn’t toughen the Pinot Noir skins. He has also re-trellised the cordon arms of the
vines to ensure even ripening and has eliminated all kicker canes. In the winery, Dan
designed and built a room dedicated to open-top fermentation. He also built a custom
punch down device. Dan does about 150 individual fermentations each vintage and
then evaluates every lot blind.
2012 Talbott Kali Hart Estate Grown Monterey Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.73, $21.
100% estate grown fruit from Sleepy Hollow Vineyard. Vines range in age from 10 to 40 years old.
Aged 9 months in 10% new French oak.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of
cherry pie, baking spice, balsam and season oak. Bright and crisp, with vivid cherry and strawberry
fruits backed by a significant oak presence. Good attack, with some finishing length and refreshing
acidity.
Score: 87
2012 Talbott Kali-Hart Estate Grown Monterey Chardonnay
14.3% alc., pH 3.35, TA 0.64,
$20, screwcap. 100% estate grown fruit from Talbott’s Monterey vineyards. Whole cluster
pressed, 15% racked to French oak barrels (5% new) and aged 9 months sur lie.
·
Moderate
golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow peach, kiwi and
seasoned oak lead to a tasty palate of intense lemon flavor with subtle notes of yellow peach
and oak. This wine aims to please with its slightly creamy mouthfeel, crisp acidity and lemon
drop finish.
Score: 89
2012 Talbott Logan Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate Grown Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., pH 3.88, TA 0.58, $25, screwcap. 100% estate grown fruit from vines ranging in age of 10
to 40 years.
·
Medium reddish purple color in the glass. Slightly roasted fruit character on the nose and
palate. The attack features wild raspberry, strawberry, blueberry, spice and oak vanillin flavors.
Modest in weight and juicy with a fairly long spiced berry finish. This wine pushes the ripeness
envelope, but is pleasing and easy to drink.
Score: 88
2012 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate Grown Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8%
alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.69, $42, screwcap. 50% Martini clone planted in 1972 and 50% Dijon clones
ranging in age from 15 to 20 years, all planted in the finest blocks of Sleepy Hollow Vineyard. Aged 10
months in 30% new FRench oak.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple hue in the glass. Nicely perfumed
with fresh aromas of dark berries, plum and oak. Vibrant on the attack with delicious black cherry, black raspberry and blackberry fruits accented with plum sauce and anise. Mouth filling presence
with a generous, long, slightly alcoholic finish.
Score: 90
2012 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate Grown Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.3%
alc., pH 3.32, TA 0.68, $42, screwcap. Vinfied almost entirely with old Wente clone fruit planted in
1972. Sleepy Hollow is situated on 585 acres of benchland in the Santa Lucia Highlands, 13 miles
south of Monterey. Whole cluster pressed, inoculated with cultured yeast in barrel, 100% barrel
fermented, aged 10 months sur lie in 30% new French oak.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear
in the glass. Fruit aromas of lemon and nectarine are layered with scents of earth and salinity. Very
crisp and bright with a lean citrus charge, a touch of pear and white peach, and a tight lemon-driven
finish. A sophisticated offering reminiscent of fine white Burgundy displaying a mineral-infused
character. A superb food wine.
Score: 92
2012 Three Sticks “One Sky” Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay
14.8% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.60, 222
cases, $50. Old Wente selection grown on eastern facing slopes between 900 and 1,100 feet
elevation. Soils are red iron volcanic over calcareous strata. Aged 14 months in 50% new French
oak. 100% malolactic fermentation.
·
Moderately golden yellow and clear in the glass. The nose is
infused with aromas of lemon, tropical citrus, and buttery oak. The flavors of lemon curd, pear and
baked apple are fine, but somewhat weighed down by caramelized oak and alcohol. Slightly creamy
on the palate, this wine speaks loudly of “California.”
Score: 88
2012 Three Sticks Origin Durell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Chardonnay
14.6% alc., pH 3.62, TA
0.74, 266 cases, $48. Fermented in concrete eggs and aged 14 months in small stainless steel
barrels. Malolactic fermentation inhibited.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. An
array of appealing aromas and flavors include starfruit, grapefruit, lemon-lime, nectarine, yellow plum
and banana. Crisp, bright and refreshing with a stony minerality fueling the finish.
Score: 90
2012 Twomey Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., $50. Released May 1, 2014. Sourced
from sustainably farmed West Pin, Crinella and Bailey vineyards. Aged 12 months sur lies in 39% new
French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, cola and
nutty oak lead to a mid weight, juicy palate of black cherry and black raspberry fruits underlain with
toasty oak. Silky and elegant, with harmonious tannins and some finishing aromatic interest.
Score: 90
2012 Valerie’s Vineyard One Acre Carneros Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 100 cases, $40. 10th vintage.
Produced and bottled at Benziger Family Vineyards in Glen Ellen, Sonoma County by winemaker Jeff
McBride. Aged no less than 18 months in new and twice filled French oak.
·
Moderate garnet color in
the glass. Aromas of strawberry, cherry, seasoned oak and brewed tea. Light to mid weight flavors of
red cherry, strawberry, raspberry and herbs. Appealing brightness and crispness with a firm tannic
backbone and a pleasing cut of acidity on the frisky finish.
Score: 90
2012 WALT La Brisa Sonoma County Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., 2,594 cases, $40. Released March 2014. A blend from several
select vineyards including Widdoes, Kozlowski, Martinelli, Gregori and Gap’s Crown. Native yeast
fermentation, aged in 40% new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in
the glass. Perfumed with black cherry, spice, oak and a subtle floral note. Modest in weight but
flavorful with notes of black cherry, spice and anise-laced oak. The tannins and alcohol are integrated
and the wine is easy to drink.
Score: 88
2012 WALT Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.9% alc., 1,114 cases, $65. Release September 2014. Clones
667 and 115. Native yeast fermentation, aged in 65% new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is scented with a mix of darker berries
and graham. Soft and polished in the mouth, this fruit-driven wine features black raspberry,
blackberry and plum flavors which veer to the ripe side. Lacks nuance and finishes with a strong
sense of alcohol.
Score: 87
2012 WALT Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
15.5% alc., 168 cases, $65
(sold out). Released April 2014. Native yeast fermentation, aged in 50% new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Done well in its style, this wine features appealing
aromas of black raspberry, violets, nutty oak and sandalwood. The mid to full-bodied core of earthy
black raspberry, blackberry and boysenberry fruits are very plush. A rich entry and rich finish. The
prodigious fruit tries to keep the wine in balance but a touch of alcoholic heat peaks out at the end.
Score: 89
2012 WALT Rita’s Crown Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., 825 cases, $65. Released January 2014. Native yeast
fermentation, aged in 60% new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the
glass. The nose smells of oak and spice with little to no fruit. Bombastic purple fruits with sculpted,
firm tannins. Rather monotone, entering stronger than it exits. The fruit is still buried in fruit and
tannins. The plush, velvety texture is a highlight.
Score: 88
2012 WALT Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
15.4%
alc., 559 cases, $65. Released November 2014. Clone 115 from a lower-vigor section and
Pommard from gravely slopes. Native yeast fermentation, aged in
55% new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Dark reddish purple
color in the glass. Shy fruit emerges slowly on the nose which is
dominated by aromas of oak-driven briar and hazelnut. Impressive
attack of black raspberry, blackberry and spiced plum fruit
accented by dark chocolate and sweet oak. Somewhat earthy and
savory with dry, proportioned tannins and some finishing intensity.
Done well in its style.
Score: 90
2012 WALT Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.9% alc., 442 cases, $50. Released January 2014. Sourced
from a Dutton vineyard west of Sebastopol in the coolest region of the Russian River Valley.
Goldridge soils. Native yeast fermentation, aged in 35% new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Pleasant aromas of lemon pie filling, yellow
peach and nutty oak are echoed on the palate which is silky. The finish is citrus-driven and refreshing,
but offers a sense of alcohol.
Score: 87
2011 Wild Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc.,
$33. This vineyard is located near the hamlet of
Annapolis at 900 feet elevation. Goldridge soil, cool
maritime air, and surrounding dense forest.
·
Moderate
reddish purple color in the glass. Very savory with
aromas of wild berries, spice, forest floor and mushroom.
Soft and smooth on the palate with flavors of blueberries, cherries,
black raspberries, animale, and spice with a vein of savory herbs
running through the background. Juicy, with integrated tannins and
an extended finish.
Score: 91
Recent California Winery Visits & Tastings
Inman Family Winery, Russian River Valley
Kathleen Inman, CoProprietor & Winemaker
2012 Inman Family Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay
11.6% alc., $35, screwcap.
Primarily sourced from Pratt’s Cornerstone Ranch. Native yeast fermentation. Dijon clones vinified
40% in oak and 60% in stainless steel for 11 months. 100% Malolactic fermentation.
·
Pale golden
yellow color. Bright and crisp, driven by lemon-lime aromas and flavors, with only hints of oak
contributions.
Score: 89
2013 Inman Family Winery Endless Crush Russian River Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.62,1,237 cases, $25, screwcap. Composed of 85% estate fruit.
Picked early from rows designated for Rosé production. Cold fermented in stainless steel.
·
Light pink color in the glass. Aromas of fresh strawberries, watermelon and cherries are
echoed on the dry palate which is bright and refreshing. Kathleen calls this very popular
wine, “Chef’s helper,” because of its versatility at the table.
Score: 91
2011 Inman Family Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
600 cases. Bottled for the Stanford
Alumni wine program. A blend of OGV and Thorn Ridge vineyards.
·
Moderately light reddish purple
color in the glass. Very crisp, smooth and easy to like, with vivid flavors of red cherry, cola and spice
wrapped in supportive tannins.
Score: 89
2011 Inman Family Winery Thorn Ridge Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., $68,
screwcap. 100% de-stemmed.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Invigorating
aromatics of Bing cherry and spice. Soft and smooth on the mid palate with vivacious flavors of dark
cherry, strawberry and raspberry with a hint of herbs in the background. Some tannins surface on the
finish.
Score: 89
2011 Inman Family Winery Olivet Grange Vineyard (OGV) Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 550 cases, $68, screwcap. 75% whole cluster.
·
Moderately light reddish purple hue
in the glass. Very deep cherry-infused nose with a little savory, earthy highlight. The luscious core of
fresh cherry fruit is framed in fine-grain tannins, leading to a very long and mighty finish. A subtle
savory and spice note from the whole cluster gives the wine character.
Score: 91
2010 Inman Family Winery Olivet Grange Vineyard (OGV) Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.55, 308 cases (40 cases left), $68, screwcap. Clones 114, 115, 667,
777 and “828.” 50% whole cluster fermentation.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Hi-tone
scents of Bing cherry, baking spices, savory herbs and sandalwood. More savory and herbal than the
2011 vintage which is more fruit driven. Very elegant and smooth, with a delicious array of red cherry
and berry fruits that offer good intensity on the mid palate and length on the broad finish.
Score: 92
2009 Inman Family Winery Olivet Grange Vineyard (OGV) Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.4% alc., $68. 4-day cold soak, 20% whole cluster native fermentation, aged 10 months sur
lie in French oak.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of fresh Bing cherries,
raspberry, and baking spice leap from the glass and persist over time. Great overall harmony, with a
charge of delicious cherry and berry fruits accented with spice. The tannins are noble, and the fruitdriven
finish is uncommonly persistent.
Score: 93
2012 Inman Family Winery Russian River Valley Endless Crush Sparkling Brut Rosé
12.0%
alc., pH 3.0, TA 0.81, 309 cases, $56. Disgorged March 14, 2014, released April 2014. Very slight
dosage (1%). 100% OGV Estate fruit.
·
Light pink color with a good bead in the glass. Highly aromatic
featuring aromas of fresh-picked strawberries, red cherries and peach. A special wine that offers
intense strawberry and cherry flavor which embraces the mid palate and returns in waves on the dry
finish.
Score: 93
Inman Family Wines is open for tasting Thursday through Monday at 3900 Piner Road in Santa Rosa,
CA. There is a charming farmhouse adjacent the winery available for rent. The website is
www.inmanfamilywines.com.
Lynmar Estate, Russian River Valley
Shane Finley, Winemaker
Note: Some 2012 wines were vinified by Bibiana Gonzalez Rave (BGR), along with consulting
winemaker Paul Hobbs. Rave left Lynmar in 2012. Some wines were vinified with both Rave and the
current winemaker, Shane Finley (SF), and some were produced by Finley only. (The initials BGR and
SF indicate the winemaker(s) for each wine)
2012 Lynmar Estate Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.2% alc., pH 3.39, TA 0.74, 843
cases, $30. BGR & SF. A blend of about 50% Quail Hill Estate (40-year-old Rued clone) and
Sweeney vineyards (29-year-old Wente 4 clone), with a small amount from Zio Tony Vineyard
(Dijon 76 and 95). Aged 15 months in 32% new French oak barrels.
·
Light gold color and
clear in the glass. Aromas of lemon curd, butterscotch, pineapple, green apple, baked pear
and spice are echoed on the silky palate. Easy to like, with refreshing acidity, and complimentary oak
highlights.
Score: 89
2012 Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.35,
TA 0.76, 623 cases, $55. BGR & SF. Primarily Rued clone. Aged 15 months in 40% new French oak
barrels.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. A step up from the solid Russian River
Valley bottling with more flesh, intensity and finish. Aromas of lemon curd, baked pear and white
peach lead to a very smooth palate of baked apple and pear fruits accented with honey and caramel.
Score: 91
2012 Lynmar Estate La Serenité Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc., pH 3.35, TA 0.76,
245 cases, $70. BGR. 50% Quail Hill Estate and 50% Suzanne’s Vineyard, old Wente clone. Aged
15 months in neutral French oak barrels.
·
Pale gold color and clear in the glass. Elevating aromas of
lemon curd, pear, butter brickle and apple. A little reserved on the palate with flavors of yellow and
green apple and lemon, backed by bracing acidity. A subtle herbal note brings up the finish. A tad bit
tight and could benefit from more cellaring.
Score: 92
2012 Lynmar Estate Susanna’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.4% alc., $55. Old
Wente clone.
·
Light gold color and clear in the glass. The aromas of spiced apple and honey are
enchanting. Very crisp in the mouth, like biting into a cold, fresh apple. Some ancillary flavors include
lemon and crème brûlée. A refined, sophisticated wine that finishes with grace and a spark of lemony
goodness. My favorite Lynmar Chardonnay in this vintage.
Score: 93
2012 Lynmar Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.63, 1,510 cases,
$40. SF. Aged 10 months in 23% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. Aromatically alive with scents of cherry, baking spices and oak. Mid weight flavors of cherry,
sassafras, spice and cola with complimentary oak highlights. Slightly creamy in the mouth with a juicy
finish.
Score: 89
2012 Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.67, TA
0.61, 2,360 cases, $60. Available as a Collector Edition Magnum also. SF. A blend of 14 clones from
the entire estate vineyard. Aged 10 months in 37% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish
purple color in the glass. Deep aromas of fresh Bing cherry and baking spice. Mid weight flavors of
dark cherry, cola and sarsasparilla with a touch of oak in the background. The tannins are suave and
noble, and the finish is outfitted nicely with generous black cherry and black raspberry fruits.
Score: 92
2012 Lynmar Estate Old Vines Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.65, TA
0.60, 301 cases, $70. SF. Swan selection from a 1971-1972 planting of 2+ acres.
·
Moderately
dark reddish purple color in the glass. I loved this wine! Enticing aromas of cherry, raspberry,
spice and cola lead to a full-bodied entourage of fruit flavors including black cherry, dark berry,
plum, cola and rhubarb. Layers of pleasure with nuances showing up with each sip. The
tannins are still a little firm and grippy in this young wine which will benefit from cellaring. The
finish is spectacular, with a velvety array of fruits fanning out in peacock fashion. A glorious old vine
offering.
Score: 95
2012 Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Vineyard Summit Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH
3.67, TA 0.58, 283 cases, $70. 20% whole cluster fermentation. Sourced from a specific block in the
estate vineyard planted to Calera selection in the mid-2000s. Aged 15 months in 50% new French
oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple hue in the glass. Copious black raspberry and cherry
fruits show up on the nose and palate, accented with seasoned oak, spices and a touch of herbs. Still
young, but giving, finishing long and mighty with firm tannins.
Score: 92
2012 Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Vineyard Block 10 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.8% alc.,
$70. SF. Equal amounts of clones 667 and 777. 25% whole cluster fermentation.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple hue in the glass. Demure aromas of black cherry and sweet oak. Bright, redder fruits
on the palate are backed by subtle, toasty oak, finishing long with plenty of cherry goodness. Good
overall harmony without a notable personality at this early stage.
Score: 90
2012 Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Vineyard Lynn’s Blend Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3%
alc., $70. SF. Mt Eden clone and “828.” 20% whole cluster fermentation. Aged 15 months in French
oak barrels.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose draws you attention with aromas of
black raspberry, plum, spice and graham. Plenty of plush fruit that is well sustained on the mid palate,
offering tastes of black raspberry, blackberry and black plum with a hint of anise. Noticeable sinewy
tannins and a sweetly fruited finish of numbing concentration.
Score: 92
2012 Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Vineyard Bliss Block Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $70. SF. A massale selection of organically farmed fruit (? Dijon and Pommard).
10% whole cluster fermentation. Aged in 55% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. The fruit is remarkably expressive in this wine but not
overwrought. The aromas and flavors of blackberry, black raspberry and plum strike the mid
palate with a vengeance, expanding to coat every nook and cranny, before departing with
uncommon density and length. The tannins and oak are beautifully integrated and supportive. A
decadent wine that I really liked.
Score: 94
2012 Lynmar Estate Five Sisters Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., $100. SF. A
special barrel selection consisting of five barrels. Includes Mt Eden, Swan, Calera, and Quail
Hill selections.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. A full-bodied, voluptuous
wine, with exuberant aromas and flavors of black cherry, black plum and black raspberry with a
subtle earthy underpinning. Very smooth and seductive on the palate with balanced tannins
and a remarkable finish that brings you to attention. This is a connoisseur’s wine that should age ten
years effortlessly.
Score: 94
2012 Lynmar Estate Jenkins Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., $70. SF. This
vineyard is located in the Sebastopol Hills. Clones 115 and 777 planted in Goldridge soils. A warmer
site. Aged in 55% new French oak barrels.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Enticing aromatics
that brighten the glass with aromas of Rainier cherry, black raspberry and pie spice. The flavors of
dark berries and black cherries are accented with anise and dark chocolate. The wine is soft in the
mouth and pleasant, but the fruit doesn’t pop at this stage.
Score: 90
2012 Lynmar Estate Monastery Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., $70. SF.
This vineyard is located in the Sebastopol Hills at the border of the Russian River Valley and Sonoma
Coast. Clones 667 and 115. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple
color in the glass. Scents of black cherry, bark and spice lead to a full-bodied wine with a muscular
backbone and more grip. The flavors of blackberry and purple stone fruits are earthy bent and there
is a hint of sage. The oak sheen is noticeable.
Score: 89
2012 Lynmar Estate Freestone Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., $60. Largely sourced from
Sexton Vineyard. Clones are “828,” 23, 115 and 777.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the
glass. A fine array of aromas include black cherry, basalt, graham, spice and oak. Very suave and
smooth in the mouth with very tasty core of darker cherries and berries accented by oak-driven notes
of dark chocolate and spice. Nicely balanced and very charming.
Score: 92
2012 Lynmar Estate Terra De Promissio Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.67, TA 0.59,
372 cases, $70. SF. Clones 115 and 777 grown in the Petaluma Gap region of the Sonoma Coast.
Aged 10 months in 63% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass.
Multifaceted nose offering aromas of earthy dark fruits including raspberry, spice, and a hint of char.
Mid weight plum, blackberry and spice flavors are satisfying. The texture is silky soft, and the
gossamer tannins give an overall impression of elegance. The finish is noticeably intense.
Score: 92
2012 Lynmar Estate Kanzler Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $70. SF. Inaugural
bottling from this vineyard. Clones 667, Pommard and 115. Aged 10 months in 50% new French oak
barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of dark red and black berries,
savory mushrooms and the slightest oak. Soft in the mouth, with a giving array of ripe berries
supported by sinewy tannins. Still reserved, and will need cellaring for a year or two to bring out its
best.
Score: 91
2013 Lynmar Estate Russian River Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.38, TA
0.60, 495 cases, $20. SF. Primarily a saignée. Vinified for 4 months mainly in stainless
steel tanks along with some older oak barrels.
·
Moderately light salmon color and clear in
the glass. Bright aromas of fresh strawberries, cherries, dried rose petal and spice. Wakes
up the palate with refreshing flavors of strawberry, watermelon and a hint of orange-infused
cranberries. An excellent choice for summer enjoyment.
Score: 91
Dunstan Wines, Sonoma Coast
Kenneth Juhasz, Winemaker
2012 Dunstan Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Rosé of Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., 92 cases, $25 (sold
out). Grapes picked a little earlier from a certain block in the Ranch House Block. Grapes were lightly
crushed by foot before pressing to neutral French oak barrels for 6 months. Winemaker Kenneth
Juhasz.
·
Light orange color in the glass. Lovely aromas and flavors of strawberry and blood orange
with good body and intensity. Thoroughly enjoyable.
Score: 89
2011 Dunstan Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
13.3% alc., $45. Aged 14 months in
40% new French oak barrels. No malolactic fermentation.
·
Bright yellow color and clear in the glass.
Aromas of buttery pear, lemon curd and caramelized oak lead to a silky palate of pear, white peach
lemon, and stony minerality. Bright and thirst quenching.
Score: 90
2012 Dunstan Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.1% alc., 400+ cases, $45. Release
September 20, 2014. Aged in 30% new French oak barrels. No malolactic fermentation.
·
Very fresh
nose redolent of lemon curd, nutty oak and salt air. Crisp and bright on the palate with good intensity
of lemon, nectarine, pear and honey flavors
Score: 93
2011 Dunstan Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 316 cases, $55. Bottled 14
months ago and just released. Composed of 5 clones grown in volcanic soils.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. Endowed with hi-tone aromas of fresh cherry, strawberry, spice and a hint of
oak. Rather exotic tasting with mid weight flavors of cherry, raspberry, other wild berries, red plum,
and peppery spice. Silky with complimentary barrel management.
Score: 90
2012 Dunstan Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., Unreleased. Same
vinification as the 2011 vintage. Aged in 40% new French oak barrels. Bottled 1 month before this
tasting.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Subdued, but pleasant aromas of red cherry,
loam and spice. Delicious with obvious potential, featuring vivid flavors of raspberry, cherry and spice.
The oak is fully integrated and the fine-grain tannins are only modestly imposing. Terrific charm with
a glorious cherry-driven finish.
Score: 93
Photos below are of the Ranch House Block surrounding the owner’s home at Durell Vineyard.
Planted in 2005 by owner Ellie Phipps Price, it is located at the southern end of the vineyard on an
east-facing slope. It is subjected to cool coastal fog in the morning and warm, breezy afternoons.
The vineyard is more densely planted than other area of the vineyard. All Dunstan wines come from
this 8.5-acre Ranch House Block at Durell.
En Garde Winery, Sonoma Valley
Proprietor and Winemaker Csaba Szakal
It is a rarity to discover a winemaker of Hungarian origin crafting Pinot Noir along with other varietals
in Sonoma Valley. Csaba grew up in a family that had made wine for four generations in Hungary. He
successfully made Rosé and white wines in his garage using grapes from his grandfather!s vineyard,
but yearned to seek a career in technology. He left Hungary in 1996 for work as a computer
programmer in Silicon Valley. Csaba met his wife, Sandy Scott, a CPA who had grown up in Sonoma
County, and because of her exposure to wine, urged him to make wine again.
Csaba began crafting wine again in his home garage in 2001, using Merlot grapes sourced from a Dry
Creek vineyard in Healdsburg. The wine, which was aged in (surprise!) Hungarian oak barrels, won a
gold medal in an amateur wine competition. By 2007, he had decided to start a commercial label, En
Garde, in a leased space in Livermore. In 2010, the couple quit their jobs, with him crafting the wines
and she managing the business side of the winery. Three years later, the family moved to Santa
Rosa where he pursued fruit sources. A stylish tasting room was opened on Sonoma Highway in
Sonoma Valley, and Csaba now makes his wines at the nearby Mayo Winery facility where I tasted
barrel samples with him.
The first Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was released from the 2008 vintage and currently there is a
Russian River Valley AVA blend and an AVA Reserve blend. The first vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs
will be released from the 2012 vintage. Csaba crafts a number of other excellent varietals, including a
2012 Albarino ($28) that I am particularly fond of. His Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-blend
wines have won numerous awards.
The 2010 and 2011 vintage Pinot Noirs have previously been reviewed in the PinotFile. The 2010
vintage wines are riper, with more purple and black fruits. The 2011 wines are brighter, with redder
fruits and spice. I am particularly fond of the 2011 Reserve which is mellow with vivid red fruits, spice
and a very long finish. The 2012 wines tasted from barrel will be released in the late fall 2014.
2012 En Garde Olivet Court Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Barrel sample. Martini
clone. Still tight with oak dominating, but good mid palate attack, long finish, fine-grain tannins, and
the telltale dark chocolate of Martini clone.
2012 En Garde Starkey Hill Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 25% “828,” 25% Pommard, 50% 23.
Vineyard is owned by spouse's best friend. Invigorating nose offering aromatic cherries and spice.
Very elegantly styled with refined tannins and a pleasing spice-driven finish. A winner.
2012 En Garde Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Martini and Starkey selections. A barrel
selection. The biggest, most intensely flavored wine with a knockout nose of fresh stone and berry
fruits and exotic spices. The oak is already nicely integrated. The finish is incredibly long and
satisfying.
I don!t consider myself an expert when it comes to other red varietals, but the Malbec (10% Petit
Verdot) and the Petite Sirah sourced from Livermore and aged in American oak were both great
wines. Clearly, Csaba is a very talented and versatile winemaker.
Bacigalupi Family 50th Anniversary Celebration & 3rd Anniversary Vineyard Designate Tasting
Recently, the Bacigalupi family celebrated the 50th Anniversary of the planting of Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay at Goddard Ranch in Healdsburg, a milestone in California winegrowing history that
played an important role in the outcome of The 1976 Judgment of Paris Tasting. They also held a
Bacigalupi Vineyard Designate Tasting adjacent their tasting room where fifteen wineries poured
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah from Bacigalupi vineyards. I thoroughly enjoyed
this opportunity to taste wines from various producers and mix with the delightful Bacigalupi family.
Fifty years ago, prunes took precedent over wine grapes in the Russian River Valley and grapevines
were relegated to the poorest ground. The Italian fore bearers who had settled the region had planted
field blends of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane, but there were also extensive plantings of white
wine grapes including French Colombard, Golden Chaslis and Mission. These white varieties are
nearly extinct today in the region. Locals had little interest in or knowledge of Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay, the two grape varieties that now dominate the Russian River Valley landscape.
John Bacigalupi, the son of Charles and Helen Bacigalupi, who grew up on the family ranch, tells the
humorous story of the time his father called Foppiano Winery in Healdsburg to tell him that his crop of
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay was ripe and ready to pick. The winery told him they could not be
bothered, as they were too busy processing prunes.
When Charles and Helen Bacigalupi put the early plantings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the
ground on Westside Road in 1964, most locals thought it folly to plant grapes that nobody wanted.
Charles Bacigalupi, who was born in Santa Rosa, became a successful dentist in Healdsburg, and his
spouse, Helen, was trained as a pharmacist. They had always wanted a ranch in the country, and in
1956 they acquired the 121-acre Goddard Ranch on a bench on Westside Road in Healdsburg. The
ranch had some plantings of Zinfandel, Golden Chaslis, Mission and Muscat, as well as prunes and
cherries.
The Bacigalupis had no farming experience but their scientific backgrounds served them well and
both had a green thumb. The white grapes on the property brought in little income, so they decided to
pull out those vines and replant. Upon the advice of Paul Heck, a patient of Charles’ who was a
partner in Korbel Champagne Cellars, and Bob Sisson, the University of California at Davis farm
advisor for Sonoma County, they planted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay instead of the popular Zinfandel.
The Bacigalupis had scarce knowledge of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and only vaguely realized that
the two varieties grew in France.
Karl Wente supplied the Bacigalupis with Wente selection budwood from his Livermore plantings. 6
acres of Wente selection Chardonnay and 6 acres of what was thought to be Pommard clone Pinot
Noir were planted on St. George rootstock in 1964 and field budded in 1965.
In 1973, Mike Grgich of Chateau Montelena came to the Bacigalupi’s house and asked to buy some
Chardonnay. He made 1,800 cases of the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay using 20 tons of
grapes from Henry Dick in Alexander Valley, 14 tons from the Bacigalupis, and the remaining 5 tons
from Napa Valley growers John Hanna and Lee Paschich. The original weight tag from 1973 is
displayed in the Bacigalupi’s tasting room.
Grgich’s 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won The 1976 Judgment of Paris, a blind tasting
organized by British wine merchant Steven Spurrier, where the top French wines were squared off
against California wines. The shocking victory by two California wines put California wine on the
world wine map and changed the global wine market dramatically.
According to Grgich, nine of the best judges in France were chosen, but they couldn’t obtain media
coverage because California wines commanded little respect at the time. George Tabor, a journalist
based in Paris, came over to the tasting because he had nothing better to do that day. When the
judging ended, the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay received 132 points, more than any other French
or California Chardonnay in the competition. When the results were revealed, some judges tried to
correct their scores, but Tabor was said to have prevented that.
In the afternoon, the judging panel tasted the Cabernet Sauvignons, and a 1973 Stag’s Leap Napa
Valley Cabernet Sauvignon came in first place. It received 127 points, so the Chateau Montelena
Chardonnay was the overall champion of The 1976 Judgment of Paris. Tabor would later publicize the
results and wrote a book about this seminal event, Judgment of Paris. A 2008 popular movie about
the event was titled ‘Bottle Shock.’
The 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that Grgich crafted is currently included in a Smithsonian
exhibition “101 Objects That Made America,” along side Abraham Lincoln’s hat, Alexander Graham
Bell’s telephone, and Neil Armstrong’s space suit.
The 4-acre Paris Tasting Block of Chardonnay on the Bacigalupi Ranch is still thriving and the grapes
are sold exclusively to Rudd Winery in Oakville where they are bottled under the Edge Hill label.
Established in 1867, Edge Hill was the first significant gravity-fed winery built in Napa Valley, and by
1880, it was one of the four wineries responsible for over half of Napa Valley’s wine production. In
1999, this legacy inspired Edge Hill’s new steward, Leslie Rudd, to begin the historic restoration of the
estate, and return Edge Hill to the prominence it had in the 19th century. Wines bottled under the
Edge Hill label pay homage to California’s historic vineyards and the rich history of California
viticulture. In my opinion, the Edge Hill Chardonnay is unquestionably one of the top Chardonnays
produced in California, or even in the world.
Although the results of The 1976 Judgment of Paris eventually were widely publicized, the vintners in
Napa Valley downplayed the fact that most of the Chardonnay grapes in the winning Chateau
Montelena wine came from Sonoma County. The label on the 1973 bottle underlies the attempt to
promote Napa Valley, state the source as “Napa and Alexander Valley,” without reference to Sonoma
County.
Through the years, the Bacigalupi family added other vineyard sites and how has three Russian River
Valley estate vineyards: Goddard Ranch, Bloom Ranch and Frost Ranch. Until 2002, the Bacigalupis
sold all their grapes to numerous Napa Valley and Sonoma County wineries. Today, Bacigalupi estate
grapes are part of many winery bottlings, and the Bacigalupi Vineyard is often designated. The aerial
photograph below shows the location of the three vineyards and lists the wineries that source grapes
from each vineyard site.
Beginning in 2002, the Bacigalupi family bottled their own wines using estate grapes under the John
Tyler label (an amalgam of John Bacigalupi and winemaker Tyler Heck’s first names). A tasting room
was built on the Goddard Ranch property and opened in June 2011. With the launch of the John
Tyler Wines label and the opening of the John Tyler Wines tasting room, John and Pam’s fraternal
daughters, Katey and Nicole, became the face of the winery, sharing in the management of the
winery’s business, direct sales, marketing, and staffing the tasting room.
In 2013, the name of the winery began transitioning from John Tyler Wines to Bacigalupi Wines to
honor the legacy of winegrowing of the Bacigalupi family. The first releases bearing the Bacigalupi
label were from the 2011 vintage and were vinified by the new consulting winemaker, Ashley
Hertzberg. The 2012 Bacigalupi Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel are superb.
Visit the Bacigalupi Wines website at www.bacigalupivineyards.com for more information and to
acquire the wines. Better yet, stop in at the informal and welcoming tasting room in Healdsburg
where you can view photos depicting the history of Bacigalupi Ranch and The 1976 Judgment of
Paris.
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