Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards Part I: North Coast - Sonoma Coast

“I believe that there are not nearly as many truly great vineyards in the New World as people think, but there are ones that have that mysterious, magical element. Ones that can produce wines with emotional impact.”
James Hall, winemaker

Sonoma Coast

B.A. Thieriot Vineyard

Owner: Bridget Thieriot
Acres: 3.5 acres of Pinot Noir, 5 acres of Chardonnay
Years planted: 3 acres of Pinot Noir (Pommard, Swan, Calera, Dijon 114, 667 and 777) in 1994, and 0.5 acres of Pinot Noir in 1996 (unknown clone).
Location: Southwest of the town of Occidental, across the street from Summa Vineyard.
Aspect: Overlooks the town of Bodega at 900 feet elevation on the cooler side of the hills around Occidental, yet protected from the northwest winds and fog by a ridge to the north.
Pinot Noir scions: Swan, Calera, Pommard, Dijon 114, 667 and 777, and a proprietary clone.
Soils: Goldridge sandy loam over sandstone, Josephine series.
Vines: Spacing 8’ x 3’, 10’ x 3’ and 9’ x 4’. Rootstocks are 5C, 3309 and 104-14.
Farming: Littorai has a long-term lease on the Pinot Noir and one parcel of Chardonnay, and farms it as it were an estate vineyard using organic and biodynamic methods (not certified). Ulises Valdez & Sons has also been involved in the farming. The most challenging aspects of farming here are the very low yields (20-year average is 1.38 tons per acre), and a typically very cool spring. Winery clients: Littorai, Rivers-Marie and Senses.
Comments: 5 acres of Chardonnay are planted. The vineyard was originally named simply Thieriot but a divorce by the owners led to a change to the current name.

2012 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., Magnum. · Aromas of boysenberry jam, rose petal and tobacco oak become mind-blowing in the glass over time. A beautiful wine offering purple and black berry fruit flavors in a mid-weight package. Nicely balanced with a very suave texture, modest but not egregious tannins, and a beguiling finish filled with succulent fruit. Still of great interest when tasted the subsequent two days from the opened magnum. Built to last another ten years easily. Score: 94

2014 Littorai B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., Magnum. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of cherry and dusty rose lead to a middleweight styled wine offering flavors of black cherry, boysenberry and a bit of oak in the background. Seductively silky in the mouth with balanced tannins and a finish bursting with fruit goodness. Score: 92

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/2/.

Coastlands Vineyard

Owner: Cobb family
Acres: 14.5 acres of Pinot Noir
Years planted: Initially planted by David and Diane Cobb in 1989. Additional vines in the Diane Cobb block were added in 1996.
Location: Wind-swept, marine-influenced ridge 4 miles from the Pacific Ocean in Occidental.
Aspect: Southwest-facing at 900-1,200 feet elevation.
Pinot Noir scions: Mainly Pommard, Martini, Wädenswil and Mt. Eden. The Diane Cobb block has more than 20 clones/selections of Pinot Noir.
Soils: Yorkville and Kneeland sandy loam.
Farming: The challenging site can have periods of spring rain or heavy fog can lead to extremely low, even nonexistent yields in some years.
Winery clients: LaRue and Williams Selyem have produced vineyard-designated Pinot Noir. Winemaker Ross Cobb produces Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Diane Block Pinot Noir and Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Old Fir Block Pinot Noir.
Comments: The Diane Cobb block was initially planted by Diane Cobb in 1989 with 20 selections of Pinot Noir in an attempt to determine which Pinot Noir varieties were best for the Coastlands Vineyard. The Diane Block was later expanded with a single selection believed to be among the best among the initial nursery plantings. The Diane Cobb Block consists of 1.5 acres of Coastlands Vineyard. Diane passed away in 2006. Ross Cobb and family pictured below.

2002 Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., Magnum. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of musty wine cellar, dark red cherry and berry, cigar box, burnt wax and dried green herbs. Mid-weight flavors of dark red and black cherry, purple berry, spice complimented by dusty tannins. Still plenty of fruit initially after opening with charm and integrity. Remarkably enjoyable after 19 years. Score: 93

2017 Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Diane Cobb Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., 175 cases, $120. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Lavish aromas of dark red cherry and berry. Impressive attack and length in a middleweight style offering layers of sweet, dark red fruits with an earthy, mineral tone. Some tannin on the backend and gregarious acidity insure a long life ahead. Impeccable harmony and an extremely long finish. Just terrific when tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle. This one made my heart throb. Score: 96

2017 Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Old Fir Block Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.1% alc., 175 cases, $80. · Sourced from a block originally planted in 1999 to Wädenswil and Martini clones. Moderate garnet color in the glass. Very pleasant aromas of black cherry, baking spices, and sandalwood becoming more exuberant over time in the glass. Light to mid-weight in style featuring a core of dark cherry underlain with excellent natural acidity and mild tannins. Light on its feet and juicy, with a slightly tart and quenching finish. Builds in welcome richness over time in the glass, and developing an added forest character (fir as the Old Fir Block name implies). Score: 94

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/345/.

Hellenthal Vineyard

Owners: Gard and Lori Hellenthal
Acres: 17: Old Shop Block is 2 acres, 9B and 9D (Elliot) Blocks are 8 acres, House Field Block is 1.5 acres and Home Field Block is 6 acres.
Years planted: 1980 (?1979) - 2001
Location: 5 miles inland from the Pacific coastline, north of Cazadero in the hills, and just east of Hirsch Vineyards. Near the the south fork of the Gualala River.
Aspect: A mixture of hills and canyons at 1,053 feet elevation above the fog line.
Pinot Noir scions: Old Shop Block: own-rooted Calera clone and/or Martini clone. House Field Block: Pommard and Old Shop Block cuttings. Home Field Block: Dijon 114. 9B and (D Blocks: Pommard, Mt. Eden and Old Shop Block cuttings.
Soils: Mixed with fractured sandstone and decompressed sandstone, clay, and Goldridge sandy loam.
Farming: Organically farmed with no irrigation by the owners, particularly Elisa Hellenthal. Some assistance is offered by shared crews from Hirsch Vineyards.
Winery clients: W.H. Smith was the main client for many years ending in 2014. Currently, Ceritas Old Shop Block, WesMar (9B Block), Banshee Wines, MacRostie and RAEN (Home Field Block, currently labeled as Sea Field Vineyard).

2014 Ceritas Old Shop Block Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.5% alc., $72. · Only Pinot Noir can give you soaring aromas of black cherry, sous-bois, spice and toast. Very silky on entry with perfectly ripened flavors of dark cherry and raspberry with a trace of dried herbs. Beautifully balanced with pliant tannins and bright acidity and a taunting, orgasmic finish that goes on and on. This wine has all the good things you look for in a Pinot Noir. Reviewed August 2020. Score: 96

2016 WesMar Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., $55. A field blend of Pommard, Mt. Eden and Swan clones planted in the Elliott Block in 1981. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Aromas of cherry and rose petal lead to a discreetly concentrated wine featuring riveting flavors of black cherry, kirsch, and spice. The satiny mouthfeel is highly seductive and the gracious tannins make for easy access. The wine's harmony and vigor impress as does the waves of fruit echoing on the glorious finish. This wine takes time to reveal itself and would benefit from decanting. A truly invigorating wine. Reviewed August 2020. Score: 95

2016 RAEN Home Field Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.5% alc. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, cranberry and tree sap lead to a lighter-styled wine with primarily red fruit flavors. Elegant and crisp, but somewhat shallow on the mid-palate and finish. Too delicate to satisfy completely. Score: 89

2017 RAEN Home Field Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $80. Clone 777. Whole cluster, native yeast fermentation. Aged in neutral French oak barrels. Bottled without fining or filtration. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. An elegant, very aromatic and flavorful wine offering aromas and flavors of cherry, strawberry, exotic spices, wild herbs, and forest floor. This is one terrific wine to drink now because of excellent rapport between tannins and acidity. There is clearly a whole cluster foundation that elevates the pedigree of this wine. I literally wanted to drink the entire bottle. Welcoming and amicable when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Reviewed May 2020. Score: 96

2018 RAEN Sea Field Hellenthal Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $80. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Nicely spiced aromas of dark cherry and pomegranate with a fragrant flower contribution. Elegant and sleek with a hint of whole cluster exotica in a mid-weight style. Earthbound flavors of dark red cherry and boysenberry backed by juicy acidity and supportive tannins that add a hint of astringency. Noticeably more alluring when tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle. Score: 94

2018 MacRostie Hellenthal Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 311 cases, $58, screw cap closure. Produced and bottled by MacRostie Winery, Healdsburg, CA. 100% de-stemmed, inoculated with select yeast strains after a 3-day cold soak. Aged 10 months in 33% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Interest array of aromas including black raspberry, spice rub, herbal tea and clay. Very grounded and savory on the palate in a middleweight style, with fruit flavors of blueberry and boysenberry. Some ripe tannins reflect its young life. The finish is exceedingly long. This wine will benefit from decanting. It was much more giving when tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle. Score: 94

2018 Ceritas Old Shop Block Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., $85. Ceritas (“sara-toss”) is Spanish for mineral expression of the soil. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Lovely aromas of dark cherry, red rose in bloom, spice and burnt pipe tobacco. Light to mid-weight in style, with darker red cherry and berry fruit flavors annotated with herbal notes and framed by moderately vigorous tannins that lead to some astringency on the finish. Clearly whole cluster inspired and showing the lighter color and elegance typical of old vine Pinot Noir. Score: 92

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/166/.

Hirsch Vineyard

Owner: David Hirsch
Acres: 72 with 60 distinct blocks
Years planted: 1980-1998 and 2002-2003
Location: 12 miles northwest of Jenner, west of Cazadero, and 3 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean.
Aspect: A series of ridge tops ranging in elevation from 1,200-1,550 feet.
Pinot Noir scions: Primarily Pommard but also Swan, Calera, Mt. Eden, and Dijon 114 and 777.
Soils: Hugo Gravelly loam and Hugo Josephine complex.
Farming: Organic material and biodynamic methods, not certified. Erratic climate with abundant rainfall b between October and April, with a dry and desert-like summer. Ten year average yield is 2.58 tons per acre.
Winery clients: Littorai, Failla, and Williams Selyem. Littorai is the longest continuous purchaser of Hirsch Vineyard fruit, starting in 1994. Prior clients have included FEL, Siduri, and Kistler.
Comments: Several Hirsch Estate Pinot Noirs and a Hirsch Estate Chardonnay are produced at a winery on the Hirsch property.

2004 George Vintage II Hirsch Vineyard Block 4A Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., Magnum. · Moderately dark reddish brown with a yellow rim. Aromas of pipe smoke and burnt tobacco. Much better on the palate with mid-weight flavors of root beer, cream soda, faded black cherry and a hint of oak spice and vanilla. Drinkable with a citric note on the quenching finish. This wine is past its prime for sure but was a uniquely enjoyable learning experience. Score: NR

2011 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., Magnum. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of dark wild cherry sprinkled with herbs and flowers. The middleweight flavors of red cherry and strawberry are annotated with spice, thyme and other dried herbs and a dusting of oak. The tannins have completely faded and there is lip-smacking acidity at the end. Complex and savory rather than directly fruity. Score: 92

2017 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., $85. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Aromas and flavors of mixed berries including strawberry framed by sandy-grain, firm and focused tannins and bright acidity. Nicely composed, continuing to evolve and develop additional nuances over time in the glass. This one needs more time in the cellar. Score: 91

2018 Failla Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., $90. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Pleasing aromas of cherry, purple berry, spice, tilled earth, and a compliment of oak. Mid-weight plus in style, with flavors of purple and black berries annotated with a herbaceous, cedar thread. The fruit builds in intensity over time in the glass. There is a good cut of acidity and some tannin-driven astringency on the long finish. More appealing when sampled the following day from a previously opened bottle but the green thread remained. Score: 90

2019 Hirsch Vineyards Bohan-Dillon Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., $38. This wine reflects the full spectrum of the vineyard. The label depicts Bobo the cat who prowls the vineyard. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Lovely aromas of strawberry, cherry, underbrush, sandalwood and vanilla mocha arrive over time in the glass. Lighter in weight, with juicy flavors of strawberry, red cherry and cranberry. Easy to cozy up to with gentle tannins, a hint of complimentary oak and a modest, but spirited finish. Score: 90

2018 Hirsch Vineyards San Andreas Fault Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.9% alc., $60. The San Andreas Fault lies 25 miles from the vineyard. The Fault defines all aspects of Hirsch Vineyard. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Complex nose exhibiting aromas of raspberry coulis, black cherry cola, rose petal, earthy flora and See’s dark chocolate. Very clean, balanced and approachable in a mid-weight style with flavors of boysenberry and black raspberry accented with a herbal thread in the background, all entwined with modest tannins. The wine is a bit shallow on the mid-palate and the lacks some length on the purple berry driven finish. Score: 91

2018 Hirsch Vineyards East Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.5% alc., 56 cases, $85.. This block is sheltered from the coastal fog. The vines are stressed by phylloxera and grow in shallow soils resulting in very low yields. A cellar worthy , masculine expression of the vineyard. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. A dark fruit profile dominates the nose and palate. The wine is uniquely rustic, animale and gutsy with a husky tannic backbone that keeps the fruit in line.Very sleek and silky in texture with a finish that just won't quit. A very interesting and distinctive wine that I thoroughly enjoyed. Score: 94

2018 Hirsch Vineyards West Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.2% alc., 512 cases, $85. · This block is located on rolling hills of the westerly part of the vineyard. Moderately light garnet color in the glass. The aromas have a comforting, peaceful tone including red cherry and peppery herbs. Rather delicate and elegant with red cherry and raspberry flavors underlain with a savory herbal thread. Very bright and agreeable, yet showing enough chewy tannin to align the fruit. Score: 93

2018 Hirsch Vineyards Raschen Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.9% alc., 512 cases, $75.. Henry Raschen (1834-1937) was a painter of the American West and lived on the land that is now Hirsch Vineyards. This block is at the vineyard's highest elevation. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Attractive aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate and male sweat. Polished and balanced in a mid-weight style, with an array of interesting flavors including black cherry, pomegranate, exotic spice, earth and toast. Nicely composed with supportive tannins and giving at this stage. Score: 93

2018 Hirsch Vineyards Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., 732 cases, $85. A barrel selection from the most evocative and expressive vineyard parcels. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. The aromas have a serious tone and include blueberry, blackberry and Asian five spice. A hi-collar, connoisseur's wine with delicious flavors of blueberry and boysenberry backed by a tannic structure that suggests age ability. Very seamless in character, offering more nuance over time. I liked it the more I tasted it. When tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle, it brought chills like hearing the Star Spangled Banner at a sporting event.This beauty will reward cellaring and most certainly is a 20-year wine. Score: 95

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/9/.

McDougall Ranch Vineyard

Owners: Mac (late) and Barbara McDougall
Acres: 8 acres of Pinot Noir
Year planted: 1998
Location: On Sonoma’s far west coast, 3,3 miles from the Pacific coastline in Cazadero, 1.7 miles north of Hirsch Vineyards.
Aspect: High atop a South to southwest-facing ridge above the fog line at 935-1030 feet elevation. The vineyard overlooks the Pacific coastline and the Gualala River.
Pinot Noir scions: Dijon 114 and 115.
Soils: Greywacke, sandstone, and shale derived from marine sediments.
Vines: 8’ 5’ spacing, 44-53 rootstock.
Farming: Managed by Ulises Valdez & Sons Vineyard Management.
Winery clients: Alden Ali, Drew Family Cellars, Dutton-Goldfield (one of the winery’s first single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines in their portfolio), and Kutch Wines.
Comment: Barbara McDougall went to high school with noted Sonoma Coast pioneering winegrower Warren Dutton.

2016 Kutch McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.0% alc., $59. · I have drank multiple bottles of this wine since I was so overcome with Pinot Love when I first reviewed the wine after release, I bought several bottles. Every bottle has been exceptional. Briefly, the wine checks all the boxes: exotic aromas, delicious spiced black cherry flavor, silky, greased lightning mouthfeel, and dreamy harmony. The wine is so well balanced it will easily last another ten years. A heartthrob Pinot Noir. Sadly, I am down to my last bottle. Score: 98

2017 Kutch McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., 550 cases, $59. 100% whole cluster, native fermentation, aged on the lees without racking for 11 months in 10% neutral French oak barrels. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. The aromas of dark cherry, burnt tobacco, woodland spice and bark really draw you into the glass. Seamless in a mid-weight style, with flavors of spiced dark red and purple fruits that dance on the palate. More demure in this vintage, but exhibiting cohesive tannins and an awesome finish showing echos of aromatic goodness. Superb in every way. Even more demonstrative when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Reviewed January 2019. Score: 95

2018 Dutton-Goldfield McDougall Ranch Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., $68. 100% destermmed. 7-day cold soak. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak barrels. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Sumptuous aromas of black cherry, wild blueberry, nori, rose petal and cocoa. Mid-weight plus in style, offering good grip and intensity of red grape, blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit flavors. A charismatic and seductive wine with an extremely long and cleansing finish that lasts over 30 seconds. Stairway to heaven. Score: 96

2019 Kutch McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $65. · Medium garnet color in the glass. A whole cluster inspired nose reveals alluring aromas of dark berries, flower garden, burnt tobacco and sweet pipe smoke. The mid-weight flourish of olalliberry , blackberry and black raspberry fruits really engage the palate. There are added accents of tobacco, violets, and sap. Bold, yet refined, still showing some young tannins and will need a few years to fully incorporate the tannins and integrate the whole cluster character. McDougall Ranch always stands out in the Kutch lineup and this wine is no exception. The finish sends the drinker back again and again for another sip they cannot resist. May be more deserving of a higher score down the road. Score: 95

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/102/.

Occidental Ridge Vineyard

Owners: Richard ad Darla Radcliffe acquired the vineyard in 2004.
Acres: 22 acres of Pinot Noir
Years planted: Developed by the late Warren Dutton from 1999-2000.
Location: High above the town of Occidental in West Sonoma County, 7 miles from the Pacific coastline.
Aspect: Wind-swept, sun-drenched promontory at 800 feet elevation, gently sloping to the Northwest. A rare warm spot in a cool region with moderate mid-day temperatures.
Pinot Noir scions: Three equal blocks of Dijon 115, 667, and 777 and a variety of heritage selections.
Soils: Goldridge with great balance of water-holding capacity and drainage.
Vines: 8’ x 4’ spacing, 1361 vines per acre. Vines are cane pruned and vertically positioned with three sets of guide wires. Rootstock is 101-14.
Farming: Farming is based on the Code of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices. There are little waves and rises in the vineyard with different soil profiles and each of these areas is managed differently in terms of vine care and decisions whether to irrigate or dry farm. Canopy management receives the most emphasis through aggressive shoot thinning, leaf removal in the fruiting zone and dropping of excessive fruit. The cover crop is planted in the autumn and is mowed and finally plowed under in the spring. Solar power is used for much of the operation along with gravity-fed rainfall capture. The vineyard is susceptible to challenging conditions during bloom and as a result, annual yields vary wildly from year to year from 9 tons to 24 tons for the entire vineyard.
Winery clients: Failla, Rivers-Marie

2017 Rivers-Marie Occidental Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., 240 cases, $50. Some whole cluster inclusion. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Very engaging aromas of blackest cherry, cola and dark red rose petal. A sleek array of dark red and black stone and berry fruits offer considerable pleasure and excellent energy. Mid-weight in extraction, with tender tannins, a shadow of nutty oak, and a seductively silken mouthfeel. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and recorked bottle, the composure was exquisite and the finish gained even more length. Reviewed May 2019. Score: 94

2018 Failla Occidental Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $60. Produced and bottled by Ehren Jordan Wine Cellars, St. Helena, CA. · Reserve, but pleasing aromas of dark red berries and tropical fruit punch. Mid-weight plus in concentration, delivering an explosion of vivid red and dark purple berry fruit flavors. Super-succulent, reminding me of my favorite olalliberry pie. Very plush on the palate, with minimal tannins and a very long, virile finish. Score: 94

2019 Rivers-Marie Occidental Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $60. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. The nose takes time to open, offering plenty of bright cherry, exotic spice and rose petal aromas. A discreetly concentrated style, with elegantly-composed flavors of cherry and blueberry kissed with oak. This wine is heavily invested in oak initially, but by the following day day when sampled from a previously opened bottle, the wine was singing on all high notes with only a whisper of oak and finished with fruit-laden, memorable goodness. This beauty needs a little time in the cellar. Score: 95

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/369/.

Pastorale Vineyard

Owner: Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards
Acres: 56.3: 34.5 acres of Pinot Noir, 8.9 acres under redevelopment planting of Pinot Noir, and 11.9 acres of Chardonnay.
Years planted: Initially in 2000 but replanting is ongoing.
Location: The vineyard surrounds the winery in Freestone, 8 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean and north of Bodega Highway. The site was a former dairy farm.
Aspect: Steep hillsides
Pinot Noir scions: Dijon 667, 777, faux 828 and 458, and Calera, Swan, Mt. Eden, “Pisoni”, and 32 (Roederer).
Soil: Goldridge sandy loam
Vines: 5’ x 3’, 4’ x 4’, and 7’ x 4’ spacing.
Farming: Sustainable. The site is cold, wet and windy with fog often lingering into the early afternoon so winegrowing here is marginal and challenging. Adaptation was required early on to adapt farming practices to the environment and climate. It took five years to harvest the first crop. Winery clients: None, a monopole
Comment: The Chardonnay plantings include clones 76, Mt. Eden, Montra and Maro.

2015 Freestone Vineyards Pastorale Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $60. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Reserved aromas of blueberry, blackberry syrup and forest path. A husky wine with an intense core of ultra-ripe fruit flavors including black raspberry, black grape and blackberry framed by restrained tannins. A very slight herbaceous oak note is present. A fruit-driven wine from a warm vintage that should be drunk now. Score: 90

2018 Joseph Phelps Vineyards Pastorale Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $90. Estate grown, produced and bottled by Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Freestone, CA. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Beautifully perfumed with aromas of black cherry, dark strawberry, Asian 5-spice and floral goodness. Midweight plus in style, offering a plethora of black cherry, black raspberry and blackberry fruit flavors that really grab ahold with intensity. Impressive polished mouthfeel with suede-like tannins. The finish is noteworthy for its length and generosity. Score: 95

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/595/.

Rice-Spivak Vineyard

Owners: Russell Rice and spouse Dr. Helen Spivak
Acres: 6, all Pinot Noir
Year planted: 1999
Location: South of the town of Sebastopol and six miles inland from the Pacific Coast. The vineyard is influenced by the marine climate.
Aspect: North-facing site at 240 feet elevation
Pinot Noir scions: Swan, Dijon 115, and 667
Soils: Goldridge sandy loam with volcanic ash
Farming: Guided by Ross Cobb of COBB Wines.
Winery clients: Ross Cobb of COBB Wines has an exclusive lease on this vineyard so it is essentially an estate vineyard for COBB Wines. Ross has worked with the vineyard since 2003 and has bottled a single-vineyard Pinot Noir from the vineyard since 2009. Winery clients have included LaRue Wines, Banshee Cellars, LaRue Wines and Relic Wine Cellars.

2008 COBB Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 500 cases, Magnum. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Purple berry and grape aromas with a hint of spice arise from the glass initially, with a smoky contribution over time. The core of mid-weight, juicy cherry fruit is very satisfying and brought into focus by excellent underlying acidity. The tannins have receded and there is some persistence on the finish. There is definitely some smoke taint present but an inexperienced Pinot Noir drinker may not notice it. Drink up before the fruit fades. Score: 91

2012 COBB Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.5% alc., 225 cases, Magnum. · Light garnet color in the glass. Complex nose replete with aromas of red cherry, spice, burnt tobacco, forest floor accompanied by some oak-driven vanilla and espresso. Light to mid-weight in style offering juicy flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, baking spices, and the slightest herbaceous tone. Elegant in character with gossamer tannins and a slightly tart red cherry finish that has good length. Still enjoyable when tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle indicating significantly more life ahead. Score: 94

2016 LaRue Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., 150 cases, $70. Dijon clones and a Swan selection. Aged 20 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Seductive aromas of fresh cherry and baking spices. Delicious flavors of cherry and raspberry with an appealing accent of spice. Silky tannins, with concealed oak, and an extremely long finish that seems to last a full minute. Reviewed July 2019. Score: 93

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/835/.

Sonatera Vineyard

Owners: The vineyard was developed by Marne Coggan, Serena Laurie and Alan Baker. Cartograph Wines purchased the vineyard in 2016.
Acres: 9.7 acres of Pinot Noir
Years planted: 1999: 8.6 acres and 2003: 1.1 acres
Location: Quite aways southeast of Sebastopol in the Sebastopol Hills subregion of the Russian River Valley. The vineyard is within the area that Gallo petitioned into the Russian River Valley. Because of its far southern location in the Russian River Valley AVA, the weather is more related to the Sonoma Coast and Petaluma Gap AVAs than the Russian River Valley AVA. The vineyard is adjacent Rice-Spivak Vineyard but its more hillside position creates a different fruit profile.
Aspect: The hill slopes from the highest point at 290 feet elevation to the lowest point at 205 feet elevation. Temperatures tend to peak around 11:00 am and as the winds from the Petaluma Gap kick in, the temperature drops sometimes as much as 10ºF.
Pinot Noir scions: Pommard, Dijon 115, 667, and 777
Soils: 100% Goldridge sandy loam
Vines: 8’ x 5’ spacing, north-south row orientation, VSP trellis, cane-pruned. Rootstocks are 101-14 with a small block of 3709.
Farming: California Certified Sustainable Winegrowing. State-of-the-art vineyard management system by Ranch Systems monitors soil moisture, temperature, humidity, radiation, wind, degree days, and well water depth. Irrigation schedules are automated through this system and can be controlled in real-time by phone. The site is late to bloom and late to harvest with yields pretty meager at 2-3 tons per acre.
Winery clients: Siduri until the sale of the vineyard. Soliste continues as the sole winery client.
Comments: Sonatera was trademarked so Soliste could continue using the legacy name for their bottlings, and continue to work with their original blocks. Cartograph calls their wines from the property “Cartograph Estate.”

2013 Soliste Solitaire Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., 650 cases, Magnum. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of black raspberry, black grape, gravelly earth and barrel vanilla. Exquisitely balanced in a very easy going and ephemeral style, featuring flavors of boysenberry, blackberry and spice. A beautifully crafted, sensual wine that is expansive in the mouth. No hard edges or complaints. Still exceptional and very easy to cozy up to when tasted two days after opening. Score: 95

2016 Soliste Sonatera Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.9% alc., 45 cases. · Moderate garnet color in the glass.The nose drove me crazy with soaring aromas of dark cherry, strawberry, cola, and grilled mushroom aromas. The mid-weight fruit really makes an entrance, with bombastic flavors of black cherry, strawberry, spice and savory herbs. Minor tannins and a slight citrus note mark the extended finish. Score: 94

2015 Soliste Renaissance Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5 % alc., 47 cases. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. The aromas arrive over time in the glass, offering enticing scents of black cherry, raspberry, spice drawer, dried herbs and a whiff of oak. Striking mid-weight flavors of black raspberry and boysenberry that saturate the mid palate and carry through a very long and glorious finish. There is but a whisper of oak and silky tannins. Score: 93

2016 Soliste Renaissance Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., 45 cases. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. As oxygen works its magic, the nose explodes with delightful aromas of black cherry, rose petal and barbecue rub. A very sophisticated wine with enviable harmony, offering middleweight flavors of dark stone and berry fruits. There is but a whisper of supportive oak, felty tannins, and an extremely persistent finish that lingers to the next sip. Even more extravagant when tasted from a previously opened bottle later in the day and the following day. Score: 96

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/597/. Soliste has bottled Pinot Noir from Sonatera Vineyard under the following names: Sonatera, Sonatera T Block, L'Esperance, L'Eternal, Extravagant, Grands Charmes, Solitaire, and Renaissance.

Summa Vineyard

Owners: Thomas Rivers Brown and Genevive Marie Thomas bought the original old vine plantings in September 2010, and leases the young vine plantings (2005-2009) from the previous owners, Scott and Joan Zeller, who were the proprietors since 1982.
Acres: 6.5, all Pinot Noir
Years planted: 1979: original planting of 2 acres of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer by Steve Young and his daughter. The entire 2 acres was soon grafted over completely to Pinot Noir. 1998: 3 acres of Pinot Noir established on resistant rootstock with original vine cuttings. These vines are referred to as young vines. 2000, 2005, and 2009: more old vine cuttings interplanted among old vines.
Location: West of the town of Occidental on Taylor Lane, six miles inland from the Pacific coastline. Nearby vineyards include Taylor Lane, B.A. Thieriot, La Boheme, Taylor Ridge, Occidental, and Maybach.
Aspect: The vineyard straddles a ridge top.
Pinot Noir scion: Undetermined but thought to be a Swan selection.
Soils: Gravelly, well-drained
Vines: Original vine spacing was 8 x 12’’ but interplanting has occurred, VSP trellis.
Farming: Brown has improved the farming by instituting many modern viticulture innovations. Scott Zeller manages the vineyard day-to-day as he lives next door.
Winery clients: The first wines from Summa Vineyard were produced by the now closed Sea Ridge Winery in the 1980, but Williams Selyem made the vineyard famous, releasing the first California Pinot Noir priced at $100 from the 1991 vintage. Littorai produced a series of incredible Pinot Noir wines from this property as well. Brown began crafting a Summa Vineyard Pinot Noir in 2002. Since 2010, the entire vineyard has been the estate monopole for Rivers-Marie Wines with declassified lots going into the Rivers-Marie Sonoma Coast wines.

2017 Rivers-Marie Summa Old Vines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., 180 cases, $80. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Provocative aromas of purple grape, boysenberry, and plum. Amazing fruit concentration in a full-bodied style offering an array of black fruit and intriguing spice flavors that fan out on the palate with vigor. Similar to a Pinot Noir grape reduction sauce but infused with good natural acidity and not a compote. Great harmony with a balancing grip of tannin, and a very long and extremely intense finish. An old vine treasure that has a special aura that defies proper description. Reviewed May 2019. Score: 96

2018 Rivers-Marie Summa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 325 cases, $60. This “Baby Summa” comes from 20-year-old vines. the wine relies more on fruit impact and less on complexity than the Old Vines Summa. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Highly expressive nose, offering scents of dark pie cherries, black raspberries, plum and a hint of vanilla and toast. Mid-weight in concentration, offering a charge of black cherry fruit that saturates the palate and holds up in generosity through an extended finish. Gracious tannins make for easy approachability. Reviewed May 2020. Score: 93

2018 Rivers-Marie Summa Old Vines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., 210 cases, $80. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. The enticing nose is a wonderland of aromas that include cherry, spice, forest floor, and pine needle. The dreamy texture makes an impression immediately. Very enjoyable upon opening in a light- to mid-weight style featuring a core of well-spiced redder fruits. A stellar wine with engaging freshness and gossamer tannins, finishing unusually long. There is something special about this wine that is hard to put into words. The wine is more about complexity and breeding than brute sap. This beauty has the balance to age for many years and will surely bring many “oohs and ahas” down the line. Still magnificent when tasted thew following day from a previously opened bottle. Score: 95

2019 Rivers-Marie Summa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $60. · Medium garnet color in the glass. The nose is initially heavily imbued with oak-driven toast and mocha java aromas. On the palate, the oak-dusted dark fruits are invigorated with good natural acidity and supported by gentle tannins. There is a coffee and tobacco flavor that supersedes the fruit. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, some of the oak on the nose and palate had shed and the wine was considerably more charming. The finish was particularly long. Very young when tasted, this wine should achieve better oak integration with a year or two in the cellar. Score: 92

2019 Rivers-Marie Summa Old Vines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., $85. · Medium garnet color in the glass. The nose offers pleasing array of darker berry and stone fruit aromas with noticeable oak rising up. Noticeably complex and suave on the palate in a mid-weight style, featuring flavors of nicely ripened red cherry, raspberry and pomegranate. Very sleek in mouthfeel and quite giving, with very fine tannins and good acidity. There is a touch of oak but it is not as prominent as in the Young Vines bottling. This wine is like an elderly man dressed in a suit in that it demands respect and exudes ages of experience. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine has largely shed its oak cloak and became very enticing. Score: 94

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/120/.

Tilton Hill Vineyard

Owners: Joe Anderson, Mary Dewane and Michael Sullivan (Benovia Winery)
Acres: 12, all Pinot Noir
Year planted: 2009
Location: Three ridges inland from the Pacific coastline near the town of Freestone at the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast border.
Aspect: Perched on a ridge top among a coastal forest.
Pinot Noir scions: Dijon 777, faux 828 and 943, and Calera.
Soils: !00% Goldridge sand loam.
Vines: Planted on low-vigor rootstock 420A.
Farming: The site pushes the boundaries of cool-climate viticulture, with temperatures rarely reaching 75ºF. Sustainable and organic winegrowing.
Winery clients: None, a monopole.
Comments: First vintage from Benovia Winery was 2012.

2016 Benovia Tilton Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., $60. · Very dark garnet color in the glass. 14.2% alc., Magnum. Dark garnet color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with scents of blackberry, cassis, spice and a touch of toasty oak. A flood of purple and black berry fruits meet the palate with a generous attack and expansive length, ending with a remarkably long finish. A touch of spice and anise flavor add interest. Very sleek and comforting in texture with a compliment of oak in the background. A Darth Vader wine exhibiting the dark side of Pinot Noir. Still magnificent the following day from a previously opened bottle. The wine has enough balancing tannins to last another ten years. Score: 94

2018 Benovia Tilton Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Very inviting aromas of boysenberry pie, forest floor and tobacco. Mid-weight plus in richness and creamy in texture, with an arrow of blue and purple berry and pomegranate flavors. This is a wine of gentle richness with enough acidity to lift and freshen the fruit load. Very gentle tannins and excellent balance make for easy drinking now. The finish is ridiculously long. Score: 94

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/1475/.

Walala Vineyard

Owner: Bill Price (Price Family Vineyards) since 2015.
Acres: 25, all Pinot Noir.
Year planted: 2001 by Premier Pacific.
Location: Perched atop a ridge near Annapolis just two miles from the Pacific coastline.
Aspect: In a 20,000-acre forest of pine and redwood at 1200 feet elevation above the fog line.
Pinot Noir scions: Dijon 113, 115, 777, and faux 828.
Soils: Hugo very gravelly loam.
Vines: Rootstocks are 3309, 3309C, and Riparia Gloire.
Farming: The extreme climate requires precision viticulture directed by Atlas Vineyard Management.
Winery clients: Sojourn Cellars, Tamber Bey, Three Sticks Wines, and Whetstone Wine Cellars (other winery clients in the past).
Comment: This vineyard is at the extreme western edge of Pinot Noir wine growing. long hang time is usual due to the vineyard’s close proximity to the coast, but the elevation gives the vines ample sunlight to ripen the grapes.

2016 Three Sticks Walala Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.67% alc., 485 cases, $70. Clones faux 828, 777 and 115. 25% whole cluster. Aged 15 months in 61% new French oak barrels. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Shy, but agreeable aromas of black fruits, floral bouquet and toast. Initially this wine was very tight and closed, becoming considerably more approachable and livelier after opened several hours and spectacular the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Enviable harmony in a mid-weight plus style, featuring hedonistic black current and black grape flavors that push but do not exceed ripeness. Despite the rich sap, the wine retains a vibrant and welcoming character. The texture is soothing, the oak is honorably integrated and the preposterous finish goes on and on. Reviewed February 2019. Score: 95

2018 Sojourn Cellars Walala Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $69. Clones 113 (core of wine), 115 and faux 828. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Beguiling scents of black cherry, spice and toasty oak. A real mouthful of delicious fruit greats the palate, including flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, anise and spice. Suave in texture, with hidden tannins and impeccable balance. Exceptional fruit presence without pronounced body. Wow! Score: 94

2019 Sojourn Cellars Walala Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 450 cases, $69. Clones 113 (core of wine), 115 and faux 828 (fermented whole cluster). Native yeast fermentation, aged in 50% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Reserved aromas of black cherry, savory spices and toasty oak. Rich, ripe and darkly fruited in a mid-weight plus style, served up on a lithe, polished frame with restrained tannins. The wine finishes with an effusive drive of spiced black cherry. A young wine that will improve in the cellar. Score: 93

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/1717/.

Wayfarer Vineyard

Owners: Jason and daughter Cleo Pahlmeyer
Acres: 30 total, 22 acres of Pinot Noir
Years planted: 2000-2002
Location: Two ridges and five miles inland from the Pacific Ocean in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA.
Aspect: On a rolling ridge top at 1,100 feet elevation. Vine rows are laid out east to west on both east-facing and west-facing slopes. Pinot Noir scions: Pommard 4 and 5, Mt. Eden, Swan, Bacigalupi Old Wente, and Dijon 115, 667, 777 and faux 828.
Soils: 100% Goldridge sandy loam
Vines: Spacing is 6’ x 3’ laid out roughly in 30 one-acre blocks with planted clones matched to sun aspect, elevation and slope. Low-vigor rootstocks.
Farming: Double Guyot pruned and meticulously managed for optimal canopy cover. Average yields limited to just 3 lbs per vine.
Winery clients: None, a monopole.
Comments: Four Chardonnay clones are planted and a Wayfarer Vineyard Chardonnay is produced annually.

2014 Wayfarer Wayfarer Vineyard Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., Magnum. · Very pleasant aromas of darkest cherry, cassis, barnyard and a hint of volatile acidity. Mid-weight plus in sappiness with an array of well-ripened, sweet fruit flavors including black plum, blackberry and raisin. A husky Pinot Noir loaded with luscious fruit but lacking in nuance. Score: 91