Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards

The term “Grand Cru” applied to a vineyard started in France generations ago. In Burgundy, the title refers to a select group of vineyards that are known for maintaining a consistent reputation year after year and are the most famous wine-producing land parcels. There are 33 Grand Crus in the Cote d’Or that makeup only about 1% of the annual wine produced in Burgundy. The plots of Grand Cru vines are called ‘climats’ (climates) signifying a plot of vines that benefits from specific geological (soil) and climatic conditions. Grand Cru wines prominently display the name of the climat from which the wine originates on the label. The Grands Crus are the “elite” of Burgundy vineyards.

In Burgundy, Grand Cru vineyards have the greatest potential for ripeness. California lacks a comparable grand cru system in part because there is more universal ripeness and concentration among vineyards. Also, most California Pinot Noir vineyards are made up of multiple blocks, often dedicated to one clone that complicates any classification of the entire vineyard. In Burgundy, the vineyards are generally composed of a blend of selections or selection massale, that is, vineyards that have been propagated with cuttings from old vines rather than nursery stock.

Any attempted classification of the best California Pinot Noir vineyards is largely subjective since there are no objective definitions. Although the term grand cru has been used by some to designate the finest vineyards, I prefer to use the term ”elite.” Elite vineyards have a long and consistent history of producing great wines either as a monopole (the vineyard is controlled by a single wine company and the wine from that vineyard is produced and sold only by that wine company), or as a fruit source for multiple producers. Most elite California Pinot Noir vineyards are monopoles.

Additional criteria for my consideration as an elite California Pinot Noir vineyard include: (1) the right vines are planted in a location with the correspondingly right soil and climate, (2) the vines have aged ten years and beyond, (3) the resultant wines exhibit age-ability (10-25 years), (4) the resultant wines demonstrate terroir-driven character and complexity, and (5) vineyards that have produced wines that I find elite based on tasting wines from these vineyards over a number of vintages.

There are many stellar vineyards that have been omitted and probably you can name several of those that are your favorites. My choices simply reflect my subjective opinion. Practically speaking, the value of this list is that Pinot Noir wines produced from these elite vineyards have a high probability of excellence and therefore serve as a reliable guide for your Pinot Noir purchases.

The upper portion of red Burgundy labels prominently feature the climat where the wine originated, while the name of the producer is less emphasized with positioning at the bottom of the label (see Jadot label below). There are, however, exceptions, and the label may emphasize the producer (see Faiveley label below). Domestic Pinot Noir always gives priority to the name of the winery that produced the wine with lesser emphasis on the vineyard(s) where the wine came from. Domestic labels also include the name of the varietal, namely Pinot Noir, which is almost always omitted on red Burgundy labels (see Ancien label below).

As domestic Pinot Noir has enjoyed a surge in popularity over the last three decades and the consumer has become more knowledgeable, there has been an increasing emphasis on the vineyard source. With that in mind, I have created detailed information on each elite California Pinot Noir vineyard. In addition, I have included reviews of recent vintages from each vineyard and past vintages, in some cases, to judge age ability. This compilation along with exhaustive wine reviews are meant to serve as a valuable resource for the most dedicated pinotphiles.

It is important to emphasize that vineyard data is fluid since vines may be removed because of viruses or other diseases, new plantings may be added, vineyard ownership or management may change, and winery clients are often in flux.

A relevant comment is in order regarding wine scores. As many of you have probably noticed, there has been an inflation of California Pinot Noir scores in the past few years. In the early 2000s, a California Pinot Noir that scored 90 or above was considered exceptional and relatively rare. Scores above 94 were almost unheard of. Admittedly, the overall quality of California Pinot Noir has increased over recent years but now some wine critics are eager to award California Pinot Noirs scores in the 96-99 range although I find there are extremely few wines deserving of this rare accolade of extraordinary quality.

I bring this up because you will find a large number of California Pinot Noirs receiving high scores from me in this listing of elite California Pinot Noir vineyards. That is primarily due to the fact the wines were carefully chosen based on my experience with the vineyard and its producers, and do not represent a random sampling. Older vintages came from my temperature-controlled cellar where they rested since purchase and in most cases were acquired directly from wineries upon release.

I am now thoroughly convinced that to obtain the full experience of most California Pinot Noir wines, you should not drink them immediately upon opening. I do taste wines right after popping the cork and some show their pedigree immediately but more often than not they are much better when tasted at least 6 hours later or even the following day. This experience was particularly evident with the 2019 vintage Pinot Noirs reviewed for this issue. This presents some logistic problems when you want a Pinot Noir with dinner. I would suggest you open the bottle in the late morning and sample the wine (about 2 oz), then put the cork back in until dinner. The other option is to decant the wine and put it back in the bottle with a cork. I can’t tell you how often a wine improves with exposure to oxygen over the course of several hours. Balanced wines will still be superb the following day.

Since many California Pinot Noir wines have over 14.0% or even 14,5% ABV, drink them at 63ºF rather than room temperature to avoid the possible perception of alcoholic heat that can accompany a warmer wine. Pinot Noirs with under 13% ABV are rarely out of balance enough to detect alcoholic heat, but the problem with these wines can be underripe fruit and resulting green or herbal messages.

This extensive listing of vineyards is split into three parts. Part I will be offered in this issue and Parts II and III will be presented in succession in subsequent issues. Here is a listing of all Elite California PInot Noir Vineyards (Parts I, II, and III).

Outline of Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards

Anderson Valley

Ferrington Vineyard

Maggy Hawk Vineyard

Morning Dew Ranch

One Acre Vineyard

Savoy Vineyard

Weir Vineyard

Wendling Vineyard

Sonoma Coast

B.A. Thieriot Vineyard

Coastllands Vineyard

Hellenthal Vineyard

Hirsch Vineyard

McDougall Ranch

Occidental Ridge Vineyard

Pastorale Vineyard

Rice-Spivak Vineyard

Sonatera Vineyard

Summa Vineyard

Tilton Hill Vineyard

The Haven Vineyard

Walala Vineyard

Wayfarer Vineyard

Petaluma Gap

Gap’s Crown Vineyard

Terra De Promissio Vineyard

Russian River Valley

Allen Vineyard

Arrendell Vineyard

Dehlinger Estate Vineyard

Dutton Ranch Jentoft Vineyard

Olivet Lane Vineyard

Porter Creek Hillside Vineyard

Quail Hill Vineyard

Ritchie Vineyard

Rochioli Vineyard

Soul Patch Vineyard

Trenton Estate Vineyard

Other North Coast appellations

Cohn Vineyard

Devil’s Gulch Vineyard

Donum Ranch Vineyard

Grace Benoist Ranch Vineyard

Hanzell Estate Vineyard

Haynes Vineyard

Santa Cruz Mountains

Lester Family Vineyard

Mount Eden Estate Vineyard

Rhys Alpine Vineyard

Rhys Horseshoe Vineyard

Windy Oaks Estate Schultze Family Vineyard

Santa Lucia Highlands

Garys’ Vineyard

Morgan Double L Vineyard

Pisoni Estate Vineyard

Tondre Grapefield

Sta. Rita Hills

Domaine De La Cote

Clos Pepe Vineyard

Fe Ciega Vineyard

Fiddlestix Vineyard

Sanford & Benedict Vineyard

Sea Smoke Vineyard

Other Central Coast appellations

Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley

Calera Jensen Vineyard, Mt. Harlan

Hoffman Mountain Ranch Vineyard, Paso Robles

Rosemary’s Vineyard, Arroyo Grande





If you were to fill your cellar with Pinot Noirs from these vineyards made by the featured producers, I guarantee you would have a cellar to not only brag about but one that will bring you years of marvelous drinking pleasure.

Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards Part I: North Coast - Anderson Valley

Ferrington Vineyard

Owners: Schoeneman family
Acres: 74 (45 acres of Pinot Noir, 16 acres of Chardonnay, 12 acres of Gewürztraminer and an acre of the original Sauvignon Blanc.
Years planted: The vineyard was first planted in 1969 by Balvern Vineyards, then sold to Dr. Richard Ferrington in the 1980s, and subsequently acquired by Santa Rosa dermatologist Dr Kurt Schoeneman in 1996 who upgraded the vineyard with the assistance of noted viticulturist Norman Kobler. The modern plantings of Pinot Noir date to 1997.
Location: Just outside the town of Boonville in the southeastern part of the Anderson Valley.
Aspect: A complex array of steep slopes and facings at 300 to 500 feet elevation.
Pinot Noir scions: Dijon 113, 114, 115, 667, 777, and 943. Pommard, Wädenswil 2A, DRC suitcase selection and faux 828.
Soils: Decomposed sandstone, clay and rocks.
Vines: Bilateral cordon trellis, rootstocks 101-14 and SO4.
Farming: Managed by Kurt Schoeneman and Paul Ardzooni. The vines are irrigated.
Winery clients past or present: Arista Winery, Baxter Vinery, Borne, Breggo Cellars, Daniel, Davies, FEL Wines, Flowers, Harmonique, Hess Collection, La Rochelle Winery, Londer Vineyards, MacPhail, Philo Ridge Vineyards, Saxon Brown, Schramsberg, Texture and Twomey and Williams Selyem (the original buyers).
Comments: The owners of Ferrington Vineyard launched their own label, Fathers & Daughters, with their release of a 2012 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the vineyard. John Ferrington died tragically in 2001.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/69/.

Maggy Hawk Vineyard

Owner: Jackson Family Wines
Acres: 58
Year planted: 2000
Location: The “deep end” of the Anderson Valley amongst towering coastal redwoods. One of the closest vineyards to the Pacific Ocean in the Anderson Valley (16 miles).
Aspect: A complex array of steep slopes and facings at 300 to 500 feet elevation.
Pinot Noir scions: Several distinct blocks of clones including Pommard, Wädenswil 2A, and Dijon 113, 115, 667, and 777.
Soils: Well-drained, , low-nutrient, decomposed sandstone (Bearwallow and Wolfey).
Vines: Spacing 8’ x 5’ to 9’ x 5’, with 978-1102 vines per acre on VSP trellises.
Farming: The vineyard is often subjected to wind and fog, and an early threat of rain and frost. The vines struggle to ripen with yields often less than 2 tons per acre. Management lives on site.
Winery clients: None, a monopole.
Comments: Maggy Hawk is named after one of Barbara Banke’s favorite winning thoroughbred horses.The bottlings are named after thoroughbred horses including Jolie, Afleet, Unforgettable, Hawkster, Graceful Lady, and Stormin’. For many years, the bottlings were often primarily single clone Pinot Noir but this has been modified more recently. The Jolie bottling of clone 115 has always been my favorite. A second label, WindRacer Pinot Noir, is also produced and sourced from Maggy Hawk Vineyard. A Pinot Noir Blanc was offered from Edmeades Vineyard under the Maggy Hawk label in 2018. Grapes have been sourced since the 2017 vintage for a Dundee Hills Pinot Noir under the Maggy Hawk label.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/978/.

Morning Dew Ranch

Owner: Founder Burt Williams of Williams Selyem fame sold the ranch to Napa Valley’s Castello di Amorosa in 2016 (asking price was $1,920,000).
Acres: 13
Years planted: 1999-2001
Location: “Deep end” of the Anderson Valley reached by an old logging road off Highway 128 near Philo.
Aspect: 20% sloping, south-facing hillside at 660-850 feet elevation.
Pinot Noir scions: Pommard, Mariafeld (32), Dijon 115, 777 and faux 828, a DRC-La Tache selection and a Rochioli selection thought to be Pommard 5.
Soils: Silty Franciscan clay underlain with sandstone.
Vines: 8’ x 4’ spacing, VSP trellising, spur pruned.
Farming: Very limited irrigation after the vines were established.
Winery clients: Drew Family Cellars is the only winery client currently. Previous clients included Brogan Cellars, Williams Selyem (last vintage 2016), Whitcraft Winery and Woodenhead.
Comments: When Burt Williams retired from Williams Selyem in 2007, he began to look for property for a vineyard. He noted, “I couldn’t afford a property in the Russian River Valley because we (Williams Selyem) made it too popular (laugh).” Burt produced a Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noir in 2008 and 2009, with the 2009 vintage becoming the last wine he ever crafted. Castello di Amorosa is currently offering a 2018 Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noir ($75) but I have not sampled the wine.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/340/.

One Acre Vineyard

Owner: Littorai ( purchased in 2016 from the original owner, Rich Savoy, who called it Deer Meadows).
Acres: Deer Meadows Vineyard was 8.5 acres out of which Littorai purchased one acre of fruit and produced the One Acre bottling initially.
Years planted: Originally planted in 1986 and replanted in 2005 due to phylloxera infestation, with additional plantings through the years.
Location: Northeast of Booneville
Aspect: Hilltop at 1,600 feet elevation. Gently rolling, peaceful setting.
Pinot Noir scions: Wädenswil 2A, Dijon 114, 115, 667, 777, faux 828 and Swan (One Acre). Dijon 667, 777 and Swan (The Return).
Soils: Bearwallow loam over marine origin sandstone.
Vines: 8’ x 4’ spacing, VSP trellis.
Farming: Organic and biodynamic methods, not certified.
Winery clients: None, a monopole.
Comments: In 1993, One Acre was the first vineyard-designated Pinot Noir produced by Littorai. Before acquiring the vineyard in 2016, Littorai purchased fruit by a by-the-acre contract, the first of its kind in California. The complete history of the vineyard is complicated as told to me by Ted Lemon. The actual rows from which the One Acre Pinot Noir was produced migrated over the years so that different bits and pieces were used because Rich Savoy wanted Ted Lemon to try another clone or other reasons. The “pool” for One Acre was always the same 3 acres with a continuous exposure and always produced from one acre of vines. The actual mileage is now 3 acres. It became evident with the first vintage after purchase (2017) of the 3 acres, that the 2 acres located at the highest elevation of the property that had a different soil type and a very different aspect, slope and exposure had a personality of its own. The wine produced from these 2 acres is therefore bottled as The Return, in testimony to the fact that the purchase of the property was really a chance to return to it with a fresh set of eyes. The Return was replanted at the same time as the rest of the property (2005). The remaining 3.5 acres of the original Deer Meadows property goes into the Littorai Les Larmes Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. This acreage is continuously evaluated for quality and potential replanting. So, one can refer to One Acre and The Return as specific blocks within Dear Meadows Vineyard or as separate vineyards. In American winespeak these are blocks, but Ted prefers the word vineyard because of their individuality and the reverence that they hold for him. Both One Acre and The Return labeled vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs have been offered by Littorai from this vineyard.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/209/.

Savoy Vineyard

Owner: Cliff Lede since 2011. The vineyard was originally established by Rich Savoy.
Acres: 44 with 34 sub-blocks.
Years planted: 1991 5 acres of Pinot Noir and 5 acres of Chardonnay 1992: additional 10 acres of Pinot Noir and 15 acres of Chardonnay 1994 5 acres of Pinot Noir. Some Chardonnay acreage has been grafted over to Pinot Noir so the vineyard is now split between 29 acres of Pinot Noir and 15 acres of Chardonnay.
Location: Northwest of the town of Philo in the cooler end of the Anderson Valley above the Navarro River, just across the old-growth stand of redwoods known as Hendy Woods State Park.
Aspect: Gently sloping southwest-facing terrain at 200-320 feet elevation. Protected on two sides so the vineyard is warmer than most of its neighbors.
Pinot Noir scions: Dijon 113, 114, 115, 667, 777, Wädenswil 2A, Pommard, Calera, Martini 13 and 15.
Soils: Sandy loam and clay loam.
Vines: 7’ x 5’ spacing with a VSP trellis system.
Farming: Littorai’s Ted Lemon has overseen a transition to organic and biodynamic management.
Winery clients: Littorai, Radio-Coteau, Auteur, Peay, Failla, and several others in the past. The owner bottles Pinot Noir and Chardonnay under the FEL label.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/70/.

Weir Vineyard

Owners: Bill and Susan Weir
Acres: 7 acres of Pinot Noir
Years planted: 1992 (East Vineyard) and 2000 (West Vineyard)
Location: 7 miles south of Boonville just outside the Anderson Valley AVA and in the Yorkville Highlands AVA.
Aspect: 850 to 1,000 feet elevation, surrounded by heavily wooded forest.
Pinot Noir scions: DRC suitcase selection from Mt. Eden, Wädenswil 2A, Pommard 4 from Rochioli Riverblock.
Soils: A melange of soils that fall into the Yorkville series. Deep, well-drained, schist, brittle sandstone and other sedimentary and metamorphic rocks including quartz. Some percentage of loamy clay keeps the soils united.
Vines: 8’ x 5’ spacing, VSP trellis
Farming: Minimal irrigation
Winery clients: Williams Selyem has been a long-standing client. Others have included Baxter Winery, Bink Wines, Bluxome Street Winery, Brooks Note, Drew Family Cellars, Furthermore, Gabrielli, Roadhouse Winery, SPELL Wines, Talisman and Toulouse.
Comment: A tiny block of Nebbiolo is planted as well.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/101/.

Wendling Vineyard

Owner: Paul Ardzooni (Ardzooni Family Wines)
Acres: 20 acres of Pinot Noir
Year planted: 2010
Location: Near the hamlet of Navarro across the road from Kiser Vineyard.
Aspect: A steep, rocky, southwest-facing slope at 335-500 feet elevation, nine miles from the Pacific Ocean. The most northwesterly vineyard in the Anderson Valley AVA.
Pinot Noir scions: Pommard, Dijon 115, faux 828, 943, and 667, and a massale selection from other famous vineyards including an alleged La Táche selection.
Soils: Well-drained, shallow, sandy loam, sandstone, and shale (Ornbaun, Wolfey, and Bearwallow complexes).
Vines: Littorai E Block is spaced 7’ x 3.3’, VSP trellis, 1103P, 420 and 3309 rootstocks.
Farming: The vineyard was planted and is farmed with the utmost precision and care by Paul Ardzooni. Organic and biodynamic farming methods are employed, not certified. The steep terrain obviates the use of machinery for most farming tasks. There are fewer growing degree days here than nearly anywhere on the West Coast resulting in low yields. The elevation allows safety from crippling frost below.
Winery clients: COBB Wines, Copain, Drew Family Cellars, FEL Wines, Littorai, Reeve, Texture Wines, and Westwood Estate. Some production is bottled under the Ardzooni Family Wines label. Littorai’s E Block was chosen by Ted Lemon after the owner acknowledged his role in the original development of the property by giving him a choice of all the blocks in the vineyard. Lemon’s Block E is one with the lowest vigor and stresses easily with water deficits.
Comments: The vineyard is named for the Wendling family who was one of the founding wine families of the Anderson Valley.

2016 Littorai Wendling Vineyard E Block Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., $80. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of purple and black berry, earthy flora and spice cake arrive over time in the glass, showing more appeal the following day from a previously opened bottle. Very savory and earth-toned with fruit flavors of plum and spiced blackberries. A moderately firm tannic backbone supports the discreet fruit load. The most striking feature of this wine is the very long and glorious finish. Considerably more charming when tasted from a previously opened bottle the following day. Score: 93

2016 Texture Wendling Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 349 cases, $85. Clones faux 828, 943 and a DRC selection. Native fermentation, aged 10 months in 30% new French oak barrels. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Reserved aromas of macerated black fruits, prune and oak. A big, full-bodied wine, with ultra ripe flavors of boysenberry, blackberry, black currant and raisin. Silky on the palate with a flood of fruit on the finish. A bold, ripe and fruit-driven style. Score: 90

2019 Drew Wendling Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $70. Alleged DRC and LaTache selections. Yield 2 tons per acre. Native yeast, 45% whole cluster fermentation. Aged in 25% new French oak barrels. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. The nose is quite nuanced, with aromas of herb-dusted cherry and raspberry, a grass and floral note, and sweet, burnt tobacco. This is an exceptional wine that offers mid-weight flavors of raspberries and olalliberries with a hint of green tobacco. Very polished in the mouth with integrated tannins and juicy acidity. When tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle, the wine was extraordinary, offering aromas of dark red cherry and cranberry, earthy flora and pipe smoke. Silken and elegant on the palate with a spectrum of red fruits and a very lengthy finish. My notes say, "fantastic." Score: 96

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/1393/.

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Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards Part I: North Coast - Petaluma Gap

“I think most people underestimate just how true the ‘wine is made in the vineyard’ statement really is. I think most folks think that a winemaker can can take fruit and make it into whatever they want. But the best wines in the world require the least amount of actual winemaking.” Noah Rowles, winegrower

Gap’s Crown Vineyard

Owner: Originally owned by Premier Pacific, but sold to Bill Price (Price Family Vineyards) in 2013. The vineyard is an Estate property of Three Sticks Wines, also owned by Bill Price. A section of about 37 acres is leased long-term to Kosta Browne, a winery owned by Duckhorn Wine Co.
Acres: 106 acres of Pinot Noir and 32 acres of Chardonnay (approximately).
Years planted: Four planting phases from 1999 to 2005.
Location: On the western hillside of Sonoma Mountain in the town of Penngrove, east of Rohnert Park. The vineyard is the northeast corner of the Petaluma Gap AVA.
Aspect: A southwest-facing slope at 320-820 feet elevation exposing it to maritime elements. Most of the vines lie above the fog line.
Pinot Noir scions: Dijon 114, 115, 667, 777, and faux 828, and a Rochioli selection and Swan selection.
Soils: Predominantly well-draining, low-vigor, iron-rich, brown clay loam with significant volcanic rock.
Vines: Two-thirds are planted at a density of 2,264 vines per acre and a third are planted at a density of 1,361 vines per acre. VSP trellising. Rootstocks are 110R, 101-14, 3309, 1616, RG and 420A.
Farming: Managed by Atlas Vineyard Management.
Winery clients: Through the years there have been numerous client wineries with most grapes going into vineyard-designated bottlings. Wineries that have sourced Pinot Noir include Black Kite, Bruliam, Chateau St. Jean, Fulcrum, Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Kosta-Browne, Marine Layer, Patz & Hall, Ram’s Gate, Sojourn Cellars, Three Sticks Wines and Typicité. Bottlings after the 2016 vintage may show either “Petaluma Gap” or "Sonoma Coast” AVA on the labels.

2013 Bruliam Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Moderate garnet color in the glass. A noticeable aged but delightful wine offering aromas of black cherry and worn leather, and flavors of dark cherry, pomegranate, brewed black tea, and truffle. Suave in the mouth, with some fading of fruit, but still pushing out enough fruit for a satisfying finish. Score: 92

2016 Fulcrum Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $68. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Enviable aromatic goodness with scents of black cherry, straw bale, cardamon spice, underbrush and garlic powder. Sensational in every way with a mid-weight charge of delicious black cherry, dark raspberry, pomegranate and spice flavors backed by gentle, supportive tannins. Impeccable balance with a memorable, succulent black cherry finish. Still exceptional when tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle. I have had this wine on several occasions and each time it was stellar. Score: 96

2016 Trombetta Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $65. Clones 777, faux 828, and 115. Harvest Brix 25.0º. Native yeast fermentation, extended cold soak and maceration, native malolactic fermentation in barrels, aged 9 months in 35% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Aromas of tilled soil, blackberry, blueberry, and smoky oak. Very richly fruited and lush on the palate with a viscous mouthfeel. Dark fruits are featured with matched tannins and uplifting acidity. Score: 92

2017 Furthermore Gap’s Crown Vineyard Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., 240 cases. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Gloriously aromatic, with scents of black stone fruits, dark berries, rose petal and warm brioche. A deluge of black cherry and black raspberry fruits greet the palate but there is enough supportive acidity (even a citric note) to lift the fruit to brightness. Of special note is the highly persistent, fruitfilled finish. Score: 93

2017 Gary Farrell Gap’s Crown Vineyard Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $80 · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Fresh aromas of an array of dark red and purple berries. Impressive attack of boysenberry fruit with good mid-palate length and finish. Gentle richness, with merged tannins and assertive acidity. Score: 92

2018 Bruliam Gap’s Crown Vineyard Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $65. Harvest Brix 23.8º. Grapes were 100% de-stemmed.5-day cold soak, inoculated with proprietary yeast for primary fermentation. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak barrels and another 18 months in bottle prior to February 2021 release. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Ooh la la aromas of dark red cherry, raspberry and spice. Mid-weight flavors replicate the aromas in a beautifully composed wine with perfect balance between fruit, tannin and acidity. The impeccable balance predicts age ability. Score: 94

2018 Fulcrum Gap’s Crown Vineyard Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir

14.3$ alc., 214 cases, $70. Clones 667 and faux 828. Aged 11 months in 40% new French oak bottles. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. A relatively ripe, boisterous, full-bodied wine that makes a big impression. The aromas and flavors of dark berry fruits are quite luscious but the sappy fruit is not summatré. The rich fruit cloaks the supportive tannins so the mouthfeel is sleek and velvety. A typical Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir. Reviewed May, 2020. Score: 93

2018 Sojourn Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $60. Clones 115, 667 and faux 828. Native yeast fermentation. Aged in 50% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. I liked this aromatic nose offering scents of black cherry, blackberry, allspice, bay leaf and a touch of oak. Juicy, with uplifting, acid-driven freshness in a mid-weight style with flavors of purple and black berries. A shadow of oak adds to the pleasure, the felty tannins make for easy drinking, and the spirited finish has good length. Score: 93

2019 Sojourn Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., 850 cases, $69. Clones 115, 667 and faux 828. 10% whole cluster (portion of 667). Native yeast fermentation. Aged in 50% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Easygoing aromas of blueberry-pomegranate, potpourri and mulch. A big boy, full-bodied wine with richly flavored blue and black fruits. Sleek in the mouth with modest, balancing tannins. The finish is modest in length but pleasing. Admirable balance at this high ABV. Score: 92

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/468/.

Terra De Promissio Vineyard

Owners: Charles and Diana Karren
Acres: 50, all Pinot Noir
Years planted: 2002: 32 acres of Dijon 115 and 777. 2012: 18 acres of Dijon 943, 97 (Swan), and a Calera selection.
Location: A short distance east of Highway 116 in the Petaluma Gap AVA.
Aspect: Southwest exposure, 25%-40% slope, 188 feet elevation. The vineyard is always under the fog, not above it like with the vineyards on the West Sonoma Coast. Pinot Noir scions: Dijon 115, 777, 943, and Swan and Calera clones.
Soils: Sandy loam and adobe clay.
Vines: 8’ x 4’ spacing, cane pruned VSP trellising.
Farming: Sustainably farmed by the Karrens (Donna makes most of the farming decisions). Each row and block is custom-farmed to the winemaker’s instructions.
Winery clients: Partner wineries include Castello Di Amorosa, Domaine Della, Dutcher Crossing, Gary Farrell Winery & Vineyards, Lynmar, MacRostie, Metzker Family Estates, Senses, Siduri, SPELL, The Calling, and Williams Selyem. Most clients vineyard-designate their Pinot Noir. The Karren’s own label is Land of Promise. The Land of Promise includes four different Terra de Promissio Pinot Noirs. The Karrens taste and approve all the wines made by client wineries before the wines can be labeled with the Terra de Promissio Vineyard designation, a total of 14 wines annually.
Comments: The vineyard name, “Terra de Promissio,” translates to “Land of Promise”, a name trademarked in 2007. The combination of soil, southwest sun exposure, elevation, and vine density, combined with the f fog and wind from the Petaluma Gap, allow the grapes to mature slowly, yielding extended hang time, and optimum ripeness. These ideal conditions result in intense flavors, ample tannin structure, and nearly perfect natural acidity. Swan clone 97 was submitted to the FPS by Dehlinger Vineyard in the Russian River Valley for certification and was registered in 2001. Typically, clone 97 produces bright and rich Pinot Noir, lighter in color than many other clones, with intense aromatics and an elegant, earthy character. Bottlings from this vineyard may have “Petaluma Gap” or “Sonoma Coast” AVA designation on the label beginning with the 2016 vintage but the Karrens prefer “Sonoma Coast” for consistency reasons. The Karrens do not require winery clients to use the name Terra de Promissio and over the years some have used other names yet contained 100% Terra de Promissio fruit.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/219/.

Exceptionally High-Scoring Wines in This Issue

98

2016 Kutch McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

97

2015 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

2017 Gary Farrell Terra de Promissio Vineyard Swan Clone 97 Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir

2018 Maggy Hawk Jolie Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

2018 Williams Selyem Ferrington Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

96

2014 Ceritas Old Shop Block Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2015 Drew Morning Dew Ranch Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

2016 Fulcrum Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2016 Soliste Renaissance Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2016 Wayfarer Wayfarer Estate Vineyard Fort-Ross Seaview Pinot Noir

2017 Coastlands Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2017 RAEN Home Field Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot Noir

2017 Rivers-Marie Summa Vineyard Old Vines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 Drew Wendling Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

2018 Failla Occidental Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

95

2013 Soliste Sonatera Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2016 Brooks Note Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir

2016 Rivers-Marie Summa Vineyard Old Vines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2016 Three Sticks Walala Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2016 WesMar Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2017 Kutch McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 Dutton-Goldfield McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 Hirsch Vineyards Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 Joseph Phelps Vineyards Pastorale Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2019 Rivers-Marie Occidental Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2019 Kutch McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

94

2012 COBB Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2012 Littorai B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2014 SPELL Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir

2016 Benovia Tilton Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2016 Soliste Sonatera Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2017 Coastlands Old Fir Block Coastlands Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2017 Littorai One Acre Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

2017 Rivers-Marie Occidental Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 Benovia Tilton Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 Bruliam Gap’s Crown Vineyard Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir

2018 Hirsch Vineyards East Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 MacRostie Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 RAEN Sea Field Fort Ross-Seaview Pinot Noir

2018 Sojourn Walala Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2019 Rivers-Marie Summa Vineyard Old Vines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2018 Williams Selyem Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

Wine Briefings

Sta. Rita Hills Wine Alliance Wine & Fire Weekend Sta. Rita Hills is celebrating its 20th anniversary of the approval of its AVA status with a full weekend of special activities August 12-15. Tickets are available for individual events or as a full weekend package. The weekend package includes all three seminars, a complimentary weekend tasting passport, and the premier La Paulée Dinner honoring Sta. Rita Hills pioneers. There are also limited tickets to the Grand Tasting at La Purisma Mission on August 14. Shuttles are available from three Lompoc hotels for some events. Visit www.eventbrite.com for tickets.

Wiliamette Valley Gains Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) Status Harry Peterson-Nedry of RR Wines and Ridgecrest Vineyards and the Willamette Valley wineries Association fought for this recognition. This milestone recognizes the quality of Willamette Valley wine and protects the Willamette Valley name from misuse and fraudulent labeling in the European Union and many markets around the world. Among US wine regions, only Napa Vally and now the Willamette Valley bear this distinction.

Celebration of Pigs & Pinot Tickets & Packages Tickets for Charlie Palmer’s annual event went on sale July 14 and will probably sell out by the time you read this but you can inquire. Chef Charlie Palmer and a team of renowned culinary and wine authorities will host the event on September 10 at Hotel Healdsburg and Dry Creek Kitchen. The event is centered around a multi-course dinner hosted by Chef Palmer and showcasing some of Sonoma County’s greatest Pinot Noir wines and perfect pork pairings. Visit www.eventbrite.com for tickets to the Celebration Package and or Celebration Dinner.

Sad Outcome of Smoke Taint in 2020 Industry sources estimate 165,000-325,000 tons of California wine grapes, valued at $601 million, went unharvested in 2020 due to actual or perceived concerns of quality loss due to wildfire smoke events. As of April 4, 2021, the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Risk Management Agency reported paying $187,920,862 in crop insurance claims to growers due to wildfire and smoke-related losses.

Shakeup at Linfield University’s Evenstad Center for Wine Education Renowned research climatologist Gregory V. Jones has resigned as the director of Linfield University’s wine studies program to explore a few options both in the U.S. and abroad. Also resigning was Chelsea Janzen, the program’s office coordinator, and Jeffrey Peterson an associate professor who teaches numerous classes in Linfield’s wine studies program. the resignations occur at a time in which Linfield University’s administration faced charges of antisemitism and mishandling sexual harassment cases. A vocal critic of the Linfield administration, tenured professor Daniel Pollack Petlzner, resign from the University’s board of trustees. the story was reported by Michael Alberty in The Oregonian newspaper on July 6, 2021.

Drought Conditions in the West

Buying Burgundy? Forgetaboutit Burgundy prices are through the roof and only attract crazy-rich billionaires these days. Top-shelf wines like DRC La TËche are only a memory for most of us and the coming generations will probably never experience that wine or any of the best Grand Cru Burgundy wines. Want a bottle of Leroy Musigny? You will need to fork over $33,067 according to Wine-Searcher. Even village-level wines from good producers are priced beyond the reach of most pinotphiles. It is high time to fall in love with California and Oregon Pinot Noir!

Red Wine Alcohol Levels Have Increased Over the Last 30 Years According to a study of 35,000 red wines produced between 1990 and 2019 from five major growing regions conducted by the London International Vintner’s Exchange (Liv-ex), the average ABV has increased significantly for all regions except Burgundy. The reasons are unclear but probably global warming and stylistic preferences play a significant role.

In the October 6, 2020 issue of the PinotFile, I wrote about this issue in an article titled, “An Investigation of Alcohol Levels of California and Oregon Pinot Noir since 2004.” I surveyed ABV levels of California Pinot Noirs I had reviewed for a 14-year period from 2004 to 2018 and found the average ABV had decreased by about 1.0% (14.40% in 2004 to 13.73% in 2018). In a survey of Oregon Pinot Noirs I had reviewed from 2004 to 2017, the average ABV showed no change other than a spike in the very warm 2006 and 2009 vintages. The fly in the soup for California is that a significant number of wineries use alcohol reduction but never reveal this. Could the decrease in average ABV over the period studied be due in part to increased use of alcohol reduction by wineries. Learn more at www.princeofpinot.com/article/2265/.

Quick Reviews of Recently Tasted Pinot Noir I have not found time to write extensively about these wines in any special issue feature, but I would like to offer a brief critique.